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I need some advice. I am currently leasing through Honda Finance. I want to sell my car to a private party and then payoff the finance company, thus getting out of my lease so I can lease a different car. Sounds easy, but here is my question.
I don't have the money to payoff the lease, not until I am paid by the buyer. But the lease company will only allow me to payoff the lease and then will send me the title which I will sign over. But who will pay me for a car, and then not get to take the car as a week passes and we wait for the title.
I was just at a mazda dealer today, trying to trade my 2006 Acura TSX for a 2008 Mazda3. They were basing my trade-in on KBB and not Edmunds. Kbb was $3000 lower than Edmunds. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what the difference between KBB and Edmunds.
In a nutshell, Kelley is the dealer asking price. Edmunds is the actual selling price. It sounds like the dealer is asking you to leave $3,000 on the table here.
Have put a used 3.8L engine from 1987 Buick Riviera in 1988 Cutlass Ciera (threw a rod on the 3.8L engine in the Ciera). Can't get Riviera engine to start. Turns over fine and will run with a squirt of gas in the air intake. Pressure on the injector header seems low, but fuel pump and filter replaced only 3 months ago. Is there a difference in the engines that would cause the computer (kept Ciera computer) to not recognize signals?
Have been having trouble getting response on Acura RL forum -- and timing is somewhat of the essence for negotiation purposes
I realize you and your colleagues are much in demand but, if you (or anyone) could provide me with the following for leasing ( 12K mi/36 mos.)an 08 RL Tech package:
> current MF(will this likely go down in Feb and/or Mar? > buy rate (does this stay constant?) > residual based on above info
My beetle have a 140 000 miles, but today the temp light flashed and then it went into red. I stopped the car and checked that the reservoir needed some coolant, unfortunate i did not have the G12 pink coolant for the beetle, Please advise me on what to do this is my daily transport i cannot afford it that anything major is going to happen to my car. thank you all. :
Try doing a search (if you haven't already done so) in the Acura RL Lease Questions topic where you posted your question. Here's a thread that directly addresses your concerns: Car_man, "Acura RL Lease Questions" #192, 28 Sep 2007 2:02 am It's from a couple of months ago so it doesn't reflect the Federal Reserve's recent prime rate adjustments. Also, be aware that money factors vary from place to place and depend on other factors such as credit worthiness, terms of the lease and so on.
I'm trying to find out who made a small 4wd pickup in the early 80's that was full time front wheel drive and you kicked the rear wheels in when going to 4wd. I almost want to say Datsun or Nissan but couldn't swear to either. anybody else remember anything like that? thanks
Thanks so much Car_man - - your response is greatly appreciated
And yes, did my due dilligience before I bothered you with questions but info was dated and/or not specific to trim line and terms I am seeking -- and while the post you directed to me was heplful, I am in desperate need for current information(whether recent Fed action has impacted or not)
So, if I could please ask you one more favor based on 08 RL Tech Package, 36 mos., 12K Yr., Super Preferred Credit
>buy rate and/or MF(southeast PA) >residual (based on 36 mos & 12k mi/yr >current incentives
I would like some advice on the merits of selling, trading or donating my really ugly used car (minor dents, etc). In which forum should I post my question?
You will need to provide basic information (model, style, zip code etc.). Again, these are estimates (good ones!) but the most accurate numbers will be from your dealer or bank.
What car Ace? Try Browsing by Vehicle on the left and find an appropriate discussion to ask in. Could be a flaky wire, thermostat out of whack, bad heat sensor or maybe your model has heat on the seat and the back and one of the connections came loose on the driver's side.
Ask in a discussion for your make/model and if it's a known problem, someone will tell you what the fix could be. Stay warm!
We had many vacations in the USA up to the early 90's, and always rented fairly large American built cars (nothing against Japanese or European, but why cross the Atlantic and then rent an import?). Now we are coming back with 2 teenage children for a 3+ week summer trip starting in San Francisco, through deserts and canyons, and flying back from Montana. Only National seems to do the one way rental we want, so that means GM cars.
Here in the UK I drive an excellent SAAB 9-5 Wagon, cruise, climate, auto box, but also run a Citroen Synergie 7 seat van manual shift with climate (bit smaller than a Chrysler Voyager, you might know it as a Peugeuot 806). The children prefer the van - better view and it feels less enclosed.
So it looks like the best choice for us is a minivan - Chevrolet Uplander looks OK apart from no cruise control listed, but what about a mid sized SUV like a Trailblazer, or even push the rental and fuel budget to a full size SUV like a Dodge Durango?
3+ weeks/3000+ miles in an 'just OK' car is fine, but I want to avoid 3 weeks in a terrible one. These models are not generally available in the UK so any advice or real world experience would be welcome.
In addition to looking at the specific make/model discussions, I think I'd ask in the GM Is on The Offensive. Will it work? discussion. Lots of GM fans participate and they will know a lot about the various GM models offered through the rental companies.
I've hauled a lot of canoes around on various rigs (link) but not on any of those vehicles. Try the specific make/model discussions using the Browse by Vehicle search on the right for details about roof rack options and how to tie the painters down.
Hi....I just agreed to a 39mo lease on a GMC Acadia, including $525 as a security deposit. Today, I got a call from the finance manager asking if I wish to have the Lease Protection Plan. Now, I know they try to add on costs after you put down your deposit but before you sign and drive away (which is tomorrow). However, the mgr tells me that I would be responsible for every nick, scratch, etc upon lease end if I don't have the Plan. So, naturally, I'm sure they'd find enough "damage" to eat up my security deposit and then some. The Lease Prot Plan is $600 (and we'd cancel the Sec Deposit --- so a net jump of $75). And, it covers me for $200 of over-mileage charges (12,000/yr; $0.40 per after) and $5,000 of "damages".
Is this a complete scam to ensure that they get the $600 and not have to dicker with returning a security deposit? I just don't know if it's true that a lease comes with no expected wear and tear --- that all scratches, dents, etc are out of pocket after 39 months. Any ideas where I could get an accurate, quick answer would be greatly appreciated. I thought I did my homework fairly well on the deal, but overlooked this aspect. It just sounds wrong that there is no allowance for normal wear ( isn't that part of the depreciation I'm paying for?)
Thanks for all the help. The Acadia forum was a big help to me this last month! -Steve
I have been trying to get into the new car area to price out a car. The screen goes dark blue and a window pops up that says it is accessing the information(not exact wording) but runs forever. It never goes further. What am I doing or where do I go to get help with this. Thanks, dustymolly
TMV is working for me - if you are still having trouble, please refresh or close your browser and try again. There may be something cached in your computer memory that's making your page load hang (or maybe you landed on an out of sync server at Edmunds and refreshing may get you back on track).
If you continue to have problems, please use the Help link at the bottom of the Edmunds TMV page.
We just purchased a new XXXX 2008 SUV. Drove home, was reading over the Monroney sticker and then realized TWO items listed were NOT installed on our car. Am working with dealership (they are VERY upset as they found another new car with similar mistakes and took it off sales the lot). Dealership said they are in contact with manufacturer and will get back to us when they have more info. Question: What are our legal rights? What "compensation" if any should we accept? For example, should we give away our (unknown at this time) rights for a "free oil change" and/or a few shiny beads they might toss our way to make us happy. OR Does this go much deeper and we have a real bull by the horns, so to speak? Would appreciate any and all suggestions/thoughts. Maybe other websites that have answers? I have searched Google/Dogpile but with little success. Thanks Not too happy camper :confuse:
My Audi lease is ending Feb 24th and I'm trying to decide whether I should: 1) Turn in the Audi to the Audi dealer, then lease a new car. We have decided that the new car will be a Chevy Malibu or a Cadillac CTS. 2) Buy the Audi, then sell it privately, then lease the new car. 3) Have the Chevy/Cadillac dealer call Audi finance to get a dealer payoff amount so that I can "trade" my car to the Chevy/Cadillac dealer, then lease the new car.
Here are my end of lease terms: A) For me to turn it in to Audi: Turn in fee: $350 Damage charges: $760 Excess mileage: $6,500 Security deposit: $425 credit Total cost for me to turn in the Audi: $7,185 For me to purchase the Audi: Purchase price: $18,000 Tax: $1,080 Security deposit: $425 credit Total cost for me to purchase the Audi: $18,655
C) Kelley Blue Book private party value: $16,000; Dealer trade-in value: $12,500
We don't appear to have a current discussion about erroneous window stickers, perhaps that might be a good one to add to our Smart Shopper board (Tide? Kirstie?)
Regarding your comment about compensation, keep in mind that if the error appears on the manufacturer sticker, it's beyond the control of your dealer as they of course did not build the car - that sticker is applied at the factory. if it's a supplemental sticker of dealer installed equipment, that is solely the dealer's responsibility. Compensation thus rests with which sticker is ion error.
I agree you should add (and looking forward to) a discussion about erroneous window stickers as my minimal research on Google/Dogpile did find other people with the same question but no solutions! I will be monitoring this forum. Thanks Nikkis Mom
I have an 1951 Chrysler radio that I would like to find out how much it is worth, if anything. The model number is 816. Thank You for your time. :confuse:
Is there a help page for posting? Is html allowed in those posts?
Wish there was an edit and preview for it. Would make it much easier for me.
Also, while I'm at it...........
Is there any way to remind folks that post the questions, that information, like the year, make, model and engine are pretty necessary information for those trying to help.
Probably the wrong spot to post this, not sure. But I figured I would start here.
I think the help page is coming soon. An edit mode is on the todo list but I don't know the ETA.
HTML isn't allowed in Answers, at least not yet. You can paste a URL in the message or in the source if you like. I think there's an issue with nefarious code if people get to use HTML, but maybe some filters will get added in the future to prevent that.
I'm not sure how to get people to put their make/model info and other details in - it's easy to click on the category for make/model and there's some "for best results" language on the Ask Question page, but even if that reminder was in flashing dayglow pink with a klaxon sounding, lots of people will probably just continue to ignore it.
If anyone wonders what the heck Answers is, check it out:
I'm not sure how to get people to put their make/model info and other details in - it's easy to click on the category for make/model and there's some "for best results" language on the Ask Question page, but even if that reminder was in flashing dayglow pink with a klaxon sounding, lots of people will probably just continue to ignore it.
Agreed.
About the html. Some folks know how much I like to use bold and italics, so those are the things that I see as important. Even if they are UBB code, that would be cool.
The edit thing is killing me. I end up having to make a correction reply, which I find counter productive.
Comments
I don't have the money to payoff the lease, not until I am paid by the buyer. But the lease company will only allow me to payoff the lease and then will send me the title which I will sign over. But who will pay me for a car, and then not get to take the car as a week passes and we wait for the title.
Any suggestions on how to make this work??
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?
You may enjoy participating in the Edmunds, KBB, NADA pros and cons discussion too.
Have put a used 3.8L engine from 1987 Buick Riviera in 1988 Cutlass Ciera (threw a rod on the 3.8L engine in the Ciera). Can't get Riviera engine to start. Turns over fine and will run with a squirt of gas in the air intake. Pressure on the injector header seems low, but fuel pump and filter replaced only 3 months ago. Is there a difference in the engines that would cause the computer (kept Ciera computer) to not recognize signals?
The Engine Swaps discussion may help too.
Any ideas?
Incentives and Rebates
Have been having trouble getting response on Acura RL forum -- and timing is somewhat of the essence for negotiation purposes
I realize you and your colleagues are much in demand but, if you (or anyone) could provide me with the following for leasing ( 12K mi/36 mos.)an 08 RL Tech package:
> current MF(will this likely go down in Feb and/or Mar?
> buy rate (does this stay constant?)
> residual based on above info
Thank you!!
kcram - Pickups Host
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
thanks
And yes, did my due dilligience before I bothered you with questions but info was dated and/or not specific to trim line and terms I am seeking -- and while the post you directed to me was heplful, I am in desperate need for current information(whether recent Fed action has impacted or not)
So, if I could please ask you one more favor based on 08 RL Tech Package, 36 mos., 12K Yr., Super Preferred Credit
>buy rate and/or MF(southeast PA)
>residual (based on 36 mos & 12k mi/yr
>current incentives
Thanks again Car_man!
Also, have a look at Rebates, Incentives, APRs - Questions & Comments
For exact money factors and residuals you will have to call the bank or dealer.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
So, just to be clear, you do not have residual # or lease buy rate for car in question? (detailed in previous post)
One of the draws of your forum and specifically, your expertize is not to be dependent on banks or worse, dealers, who have their own agenda
Isn't there someone on Forums that would know Acura RL buy rates and/or residuals?
thanks for help either way -
If no
I would like some advice on the merits of selling, trading or donating my really ugly used car (minor dents, etc). In which forum should I post my question?
thanks!
Our online calculators will provide you with estimates. Try it here: Acura RL Loan Calculator at edmunds.com
You will need to provide basic information (model, style, zip code etc.). Again, these are estimates (good ones!) but the most accurate numbers will be from your dealer or bank.
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Ask in a discussion for your make/model and if it's a known problem, someone will tell you what the fix could be. Stay warm!
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thank You
Honda Pilot Driver's Seat Catches Fire
Try posting in the general Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair discussion and check out the thread in there starting with post #2444.
Here in the UK I drive an excellent SAAB 9-5 Wagon, cruise, climate, auto box, but also run a Citroen Synergie 7 seat van manual shift with climate (bit smaller than a Chrysler Voyager, you might know it as a Peugeuot 806). The children prefer the van - better view and it feels less enclosed.
So it looks like the best choice for us is a minivan - Chevrolet Uplander looks OK apart from no cruise control listed, but what about a mid sized SUV like a Trailblazer, or even push the rental and fuel budget to a full size SUV like a Dodge Durango?
3+ weeks/3000+ miles in an 'just OK' car is fine, but I want to avoid 3 weeks in a terrible one. These models are not generally available in the UK so any advice or real world experience would be welcome.
This thread may be of interest too:
steine13, "Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous" #10811, 9 Oct 2007 6:24 pm
Is this a complete scam to ensure that they get the $600 and not have to dicker with returning a security deposit? I just don't know if it's true that a lease comes with no expected wear and tear --- that all scratches, dents, etc are out of pocket after 39 months. Any ideas where I could get an accurate, quick answer would be greatly appreciated. I thought I did my homework fairly well on the deal, but overlooked this aspect. It just sounds wrong that there is no allowance for normal wear ( isn't that part of the depreciation I'm paying for?)
Thanks for all the help. The Acadia forum was a big help to me this last month!
-Steve
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks-
kcram - Pickups Host
dustymolly
If you continue to have problems, please use the Help link at the bottom of the Edmunds TMV page.
Am working with dealership (they are VERY upset as they found another new car with similar mistakes and took it off sales the lot).
Dealership said they are in contact with manufacturer and will get back to us when they have more info.
Question:
What are our legal rights?
What "compensation" if any should we accept? For example, should we give away our (unknown at this time) rights for a "free oil change" and/or a few shiny beads they might toss our way to make us happy.
OR
Does this go much deeper and we have a real bull by the horns, so to speak?
Would appreciate any and all suggestions/thoughts. Maybe other websites that have answers?
I have searched Google/Dogpile but with little success.
Thanks
Not too happy camper :confuse:
1) Turn in the Audi to the Audi dealer, then lease a new car. We have decided that the new car will be a Chevy Malibu or a Cadillac CTS.
2) Buy the Audi, then sell it privately, then lease the new car.
3) Have the Chevy/Cadillac dealer call Audi finance to get a dealer payoff amount so that I can "trade" my car to the Chevy/Cadillac dealer, then lease the new car.
Here are my end of lease terms:
A) For me to turn it in to Audi:
Turn in fee: $350
Damage charges: $760
Excess mileage: $6,500
Security deposit: $425 credit
Total cost for me to turn in the Audi: $7,185
Purchase price: $18,000
Tax: $1,080
Security deposit: $425 credit
Total cost for me to purchase the Audi: $18,655
C) Kelley Blue Book private party value: $16,000; Dealer trade-in value: $12,500
Regarding your comment about compensation, keep in mind that if the error appears on the manufacturer sticker, it's beyond the control of your dealer as they of course did not build the car - that sticker is applied at the factory. if it's a supplemental sticker of dealer installed equipment, that is solely the dealer's responsibility. Compensation thus rests with which sticker is ion error.
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
I will be monitoring this forum.
Thanks
Nikkis Mom
I'll start up a topic right after my class tonight!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Please post your question there. I'll be interested in reading what everyone has to say about it!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Is html allowed in those posts?
Wish there was an edit and preview for it. Would make it much easier for me.
Also, while I'm at it...........
Is there any way to remind folks that post the questions, that information, like the year, make, model and engine are pretty necessary information for those trying to help.
Probably the wrong spot to post this, not sure. But I figured I would start here.
HTML isn't allowed in Answers, at least not yet. You can paste a URL in the message or in the source if you like. I think there's an issue with nefarious code if people get to use HTML, but maybe some filters will get added in the future to prevent that.
I'm not sure how to get people to put their make/model info and other details in - it's easy to click on the category for make/model and there's some "for best results" language on the Ask Question page, but even if that reminder was in flashing dayglow pink with a klaxon sounding, lots of people will probably just continue to ignore it.
If anyone wonders what the heck Answers is, check it out:
Answers
And thanks for all your great advice 0patience!
Agreed.
About the html. Some folks know how much I like to use bold and italics, so those are the things that I see as important. Even if they are UBB code, that would be cool.
The edit thing is killing me. I end up having to make a correction reply, which I find counter productive.
Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.