I have 5,000 miles on my 2001 Forester S bought in May. All commuting miles. I have noticed a rattle in the rear for a month or two and it seems to be louder and more noticeable. It happens when I turn, on a rough road, etc. now. I have looked everywhere for something loose in the back and nothing. I noticed an earlier comment about a loose latch. Any hints before I take it to be serviced? I have to take a day off from work to do this since the service department is closed on weekends and in another City!Thanks. Michelle
I had what is probably the same problem. Most commonly well lubricating the plastic slides either side of the hatch will end the problem, at least temporarily. In some cases, like mine, the latch needs to be adjusted. Evidently there is not much adjustment available. Mine is 99% fixed, i have not yet decided whether I'm going to have the dealer order a replacement latch assembly. Good luck.
I have 2000 Forester with the same problem. I dropped the car off at the dealer today. After the work was done the service dept. said he should have charged me for the service because my car has over 15,000 miles. He said adjustments are 1 year or 12,000 miles and according to him, the noise in the rear was an adjustment. If I known about this I would have took the car in sooner. I really didn't notice the noise until my wife said something awhile back and now I can't stand it. My advise is to get all those adjustments in before 12,000 miles. Good Luck.
I have a fairly small crack (at this point) in my front windshield of my 2001 S+ forester purchased in July. Just wondering if it will be difficult to find a replacement windshield because of the electrical wires running at the bottom of the windshield (to de-ice the wipers). I just as soon not replace the windshield yet since the crack has not been a problem yet - it is small and not even close to impairing my vision. I think the de-icer will still work (I do not think the wires were affected) but I have not tried it out yet. (By the way, I did have the foresight to get windshield coverage when I put the new car on my insurance at the time of purchase)
I would get that crack repaired as soon as possible before it gets bigger. Many windshield places can fill the crack with a sealant that prevents it from growing.
The heated windshield is going to be more expensive to replace than a plain one.
rleong- That's the 1st I've heard of a 1 year 12K adjustment period. I think your dealer's full of it. 3 yr/36K bumper to bumper means just that...it there's a rattle etc. during the warranty period, the dealer has to fix it. Period! I'd call the national Subaru 800 # if they give you any grief.
boris8- With winter coming, your windshield's constant exposure to heating and cooling of will likely make the crack worse. Therefore, Take ken's advice and see if it can be repaired. They are indeed expensive to replace and depending upon your state's laws, you may have to pay your insurance's deductible.
Actually, Patti said something about that, too, so it may be true. I think some "adjustments" aren't the same as outright defects or problems that the warranty covers.
I imagine they're the brake pedal and clutch position, things like that.
p0926- Thanks for the info. I would have have said something if they charged me, but lucky for me they didn't. Awhile back I had asked the dealer about the noise coming from my front brakes when I slow down. They told me it was normal. I also read somewhere this was normal, too. That same day I had my car in, I asked them to pull my front wheel off and check if they see any problems. They said sure we'll do it, but I will have to charge you. I said "no thank you".
rleong- You obviously have one of those non-customer service oriented dealers. :-( As long as you're not coming in every other week with imagined problems they should be happy to help you. Besides, I'm pretty sure they can bill SOA for any warranty work so it's not like it's coming out of their pocket.
I have had my 2001 Forester L since March 2000 and have had a "poping" noise that occurs during turns and sometimes when when driving straight and going over bumps. When pulling into my parking lot at work I need to make three turns, one right after the other and I get a single POP with each turn. I plan to get it to the dealer to get checked out but until then does anyone know what is causing this mysterious POP sound and can it be fixed??
that it is the dreaded hatch, crackle & pop. Lubricating the slides on either side of the hatch may solve the problem. In my case the hatch-latch had to be adjusted. My noise is now 98% gone. Good luck.
I am in the process of purchasing my first new car. I have been reading all the info on Edmumds about how to successfully negotiate a fair price. Steps listed are as follows: a) Total the cost of the options for the model and equipment you want.
b) If ordering the vehicle, determine the value of the holdback and subtract this amount. If the dealer orders the vehicle, he won't pay floorplanning (the charge to stock the vehicle), or advertising (an expected cost of business), which the holdback is designed to subsidize.
c) Add the True Market Value price to the list of discounted options.
d) Add the destination charge, which is non-negotiable. Also expect to be charged advertising fees by the auto manufacturer to help pay for those MTV-style TV commercials that got you thinking about a new car in the first place. You should pay no more than 1.5 percent of the vehicle's MSRP.
e) Some dealers charge a delivery and handling (D&H) fee. Negotiate this fee. It's just added profit.
f) Add sales taxes.
g) Deduct any incentives or rebates.
Step C is to add the true market value to the discounted options. How do you determine a fair price for the options added on to a new car? Does anyone have any additional comments or steps to add to the list above?
All that theory is great, but you still have to find a dealer that'll give you the price you want.
I prefer the no-haggle approach. I may cost you $100 more then the snake-oil salesman down the street, but you are generally treated with respect and feel you can trust they are only trying to help you find the model and options you want.
Here's the one I usually refer people to (in the capital area):
My dad and cousin bought there. I went to a snake-oil salesman, and they tried to pull every trick in the book, mainly bait-and-switch pricing. Their ads look cheaper, but add their processing fee, advertising fee, freight, etc, and it's more than Fitzgerald charges (their prices include all that stuff up front).
Generationx56- You should be able to get options at their invoice price as long as they are "factory" or "port" installed. You should plan on paying at least MSRP if the dealer has to install an option for you.
Juice is right about you still having to find a dealer willing to sell at the price you come up with. There are a lot of local variables that come into play when determining the actual sales price of a vehicle so one formula won't work for every situation.
Probably should change my name to "gotonenow". As I mentioned in the beginning of October, ordered an S on Sept. 11. It arrived at the dealer on Nov. 2.
There is a dearth of trailer hitches in Vancouver, WA. The dealer installed it for $38 more than invoice price. Bottom line, price wise, was $100 over invoice, plus $249 doc fee, tax and tags. The dealer is now part of Auto Nation and may be selling over the net all over the USA. I am in Arizona, had to travel 90+ miles to get this deal, but it was well worth it, I think.
Drove home on the freeway (Intersate for you easterners) and am exceedingly pleased with the ride, handling and POWER. Have a LONG hill to climb that is about a 2000 to 2500 foot change in elevation. At low speeds (50-55) it did not labor. We'll see what happens after the 3000 mile break in period.
Have two long trips in near future, one to Denver for Thanksgiving and one to Vegas after New Year's Day. Judging by the ride home yesterday, both should be a piece of cake. Will be doing a lot of day trips in the next few weeks, will keep informed of any "quirks", etc.
Hi gang. I took delivery of a black 5-speed Forester S+ last Wednesday. The only options I got were the alarm and rear-cargo cover (the S+ comes so loaded, I didn't think I needed much extra). I plan to get the bug deflector and rear dust deflector, as well as the stereo upgrade if wifey allows it. :-)
I'm very pleased with my decision. I had seriously considered the Hyundai Santa Fe, but went with the Sube because of gas mileage and an all-around better feeling about dumping $20k+ on a vehicle.
FYI, everyone who has a Sube should get a Subaru credit card. Wifey and I use it as a de-facto debit card and earn 5% of every purchase towards a new Sube (she wants an Outback in a couple of years). Subaru of USA just rolled out a plan where you can use your credits towards Subaru maintenance and upgrades, so that stereo might end up being free in a couple months...
Congrats on your purchase. I'm so glad you like it so far. I'm also glad to hear it came in right around the 8 week lead time. I ordered one on Sept 21st and expect delivery around Nov 16th. I can't wait! Please do keep us posted on your travels!
I personally think Black S+ is the sharpest looking thing on the face of Earth! If I was not so busy (lazy?) cleaning my cars, I'd definitely go for Black S+.
I paid 2% over invoice plus a $150 advertising fee for my Silver S+ Forester. I got the same no haggle quote from two different dealers, so I think the $150 fee is legit. They're suppose to tell you beforehand though. I got these deals through internet quotes, so I knew about the fee up front. This was in San Antonio and Houston, TX so YMMV.
Yes, I installed it myself so I got a close look at it. You can see it here.
The kit itself is very simple. You pop out this plastic cover, install a bracket with two screws, and then slip in the filter and cover and fasten it.
It's a particle filtration filter, made of paper, like many furnaces use, so it catches dust, dust mites, pet hair, etc. I have asthma so it was a no-brainer.
Thank you to everyone (esp. Juice, Frank P. and Steve) for all of your advice and help. Because of your input, I felt very comfortable with my purchase.
I am now the proud owner of a S+ Silverthorne Forester... and today, the first snow of the season is falling. I can test the seat warmers and windshield wiper deicers!
Of course, I have to ask a couple of questions:
my sales person could not tell me how to use the key to open my door without setting the alarm off. It is not in the instructions manual either. Is this a subaru quirk or is there some way that I can work this out?
I know that I have read about a funny smell in the new foresters. What is it? It smells like burning electrical wiring?
I'm not sure that you can open the car with the key, after the alarm has been activated, without setting it off.
My understanding is that you should always use the romote entry to open/deactivate. If you do open with the key, and the alarm goes off, put the key in the ignition, and turn on/off three times quickly to deactivate it. That will turn it off.
soobiedoo- Congratulations on your new Forester!!! Please let us know how it handles in the snow.
Hey Juice- wouldn't it be fun to recline on those heated seats and star gaze thru that monster moonroof on a crisp clear winter's night? Sorry, just had to rub it in. ;-)
Re the alarm- Bob is right, when the alarm is activated (either by using the remote or by moving the power door switch to "lock" prior to closing), using the key to open a door will set it off. However, you can lock the vehicle without setting the alarm by either using the key or by manually pushing in the door lock lever (inside the door handle). FYI: if you screw up and accidently set the alarm off, the disarm button on the remote turns it off.
Re new car smell- it offends some more than others. Rest assured that it will eventually go away.
soobiedoo- congrats on your new s+! i am in the market for essentially the same car (and color) -- do you mind if i ask what price you were able to negotiate your vehicle for? thanks.
for other s+ owners- the only downside i see is the inability to install the side underguard bar. is reaching/cleaning the roof that much more difficult without it? guess it makes a difference how tall you are -- i'm only 5'7".
Grace: you forgot the biggest test of all - AWD! That plus the rear limited slip differential, and (well, hopefully not) the 4 channel 4 sensor ABS and all-around disc brakes.
Congrats, and it looks like just in time, too.
I know, it's the worst new-car smell in the industry. We don't tell anyone 'cause it goes away in a few weeks!
Norm: you can also stand on the rear tires, as well as the rear bumper. That plus I'm 6', so it's never been an issue for me.
If you're near the nation's capital, consider paying a visit to http://www.fitzautomall.com/. You can go to their site, under new plug in Forester, and you'll find up-front prices that are pretty darn good, with no surprises. Even freight is included, just add state tax and tags.
Some dealer will say they'll beat the price, but then tack on freight, advertising fees, processing fees, etc.
juice- thanks for the site. unfortunately i'm on the west coast but at least the prices they show give me something to shoot for.
back in october, genx56 posted a list of steps for determining a fair offering price. in step b he mentions that if you're ordering your forester, you should deduct the dealer holdback (of 3%). is that from the invoice price shown or from edmunds' tmv? also, as far as i know, there are no forester incentives or rebates, right?
Subaru gives the dealer a 3% "holdback" bonus after the sale of the car. It's 3% of the full retail price.
Deduct that holdback from the invoice price to find out what the dealer paid, but don't expect to keep that money - it's their only profit in most cases.
On another topic - just got the Consumer Reports 2001 Buyer's Guide, and the '99 Forester had PERFECT scores in reliability, a nice improvement from the first year 1998 model (which was still very good).
The CR-V and RAV4 could not match those scores. In fact, not a single Honda could.
Subaru earend a best pick rating for all its models, and none are listed under reliability risks or used cars to avoid.
Tonight we picked up my wife's 2001 Sedona Red Forester S+ with premium sound and arm rest extension. I have not driven it yet, but, she loves it (thats all that counts). I took off the roof cross rails. The only problem I see is the narrower read seat does not latch without slamming it against the stop. The heated seats are great, as well as the huge moon roof. I got it at invoice and leased it. Can not wait to see how it does in the snow. Mike
Mike- Please pass on my congratulations to your wife. She got a great vehicle. You might want to have the dealer fix that rear seat though. You shouldn't have to slam it.
-Frank P.
P.S. You're welcome to join us in the Owner's Club Subaru forums (which by the way aren't limited to owners, only need to be a fellow Subaru fanatic). :-)
Hello Norm, For the silver Forester S+ with the interior upgrade (auto dim mirror, woodgrain, cargo net), air filter, front grill, and tail pipe add-on (they wouldn't take it off), I paid a little under $24k, not including tax and licensing fees. I believe I paid 1% over invoice, but I am not certain.
In the past five days, I have driven my soob over 500 miles and I LOVE it... and the stinky new car smell has evaporated
Our new 2001 Forester S arrived last week and it's all we expected.
The weather recently turned cold and wet here (Austin, TX) and we've had trouble getting the rear four side windows to defog adequately. The rear window w/ the electric defogger worked great, but the rear sides remained difficult to see through even w/ the fan on high. Anyone else notice this or have a suggestion?
Turn on the air conditioning and your windows should defog quicker. The A/C, after all, is a dehumidifier. You can turn on the A/C and have heat on at the same time.
Drew/aling Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
Well, here is one reason why you should go with the Forester over the Cherokee Sport...the IIHS 40mph offset crash test results. If you need more reasons, I'm sure that others here will also be glad to provide them for you.:
If you're not going to do any off-roading, then surely you don't need a Jeep!
The Forester will suit you fine. It rides better and you'll get way better gas mileage too! And if you do venture onto the 'off-road', your Forester will be able to handle it, no problem.
Just my 2 cents. As always, you're results may vary.
1) Mileage, Mileage, Mileage. I average 25 mpg, with the occasional 26.5 - Forester L Auto.
2) Price - Forester L 5-speed can be had for 19k.
3) Reliability (as already mentioned)
4) Handling - I used to _drive_ a Ford Probe GT. Enough said.
5) Build Quality
The only drawback to the Forester for guys is Subaru's marketing of it to women. I've caught people joking about my purchase, saying "Should we tell him he bought a wagon and not an SUV" and "Do you know you own the official car of the lesbian community". Who cares what other people think - a Forester purchase shows that you are smart. It's powerful, frugal, solid, durable and will remain that way for many, many years and miles.
I went thru the same dilemma. I had a 92 Cherokee Sport and it had never caused me any problems. It even got good gas mileage for a Jeep (avg 20 mpg). Last year I decided it was time for a new ride. However, in my case, I insist on a 5-spd and so tried for 9 months without success to find a 2000 Cherokee thusly equipped. It wasn't until last spring when I read Consumer Report's eval of small SUVs that I even learned of the Forester. After reading all the positive things they had to say about it I decided to check one out and was immediately won over. I still kinda miss the old Jeep but after hearing about all the problems that Jeeps have been having, I'm glad I didn't get another (figure I was real lucky the 1st time). In any case, the Forester rides far better, handles better, gets better mileage (I avg 27 mpg mostly hwy), can handle the mild off roading that I do, and will be far more reliable.
If you're looking for towing capacity, then the Cherokee is the better choice. I believe it can tow 5000# with the I-6 it has (made right here in Kenosha!).
But, again, reliability is the key here (as mentioned previously).
One thing the Jeep has is the fact that there are a lot of them out there. Parts are easy to come by if you need them. And the I-6 is easy to work on. My dad has an 87 Sport 2 door that is still running strong (knock on wood!).
So, if you'll need to tow more than 2000#, then you'll need something other than the Forester. If I need to tow something, I just go to UHaul and rent a truck! Better yet - get a friend who has a truck and borrow his!
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Comments
Ross
Any thoughts?
I would get that crack repaired as soon as possible before it gets bigger. Many windshield places can fill the crack with a sealant that prevents it from growing.
The heated windshield is going to be more expensive to replace than a plain one.
Ken
-juice
boris8- With winter coming, your windshield's constant exposure to heating and cooling of will likely make the crack worse. Therefore, Take ken's advice and see if it can be repaired. They are indeed expensive to replace and depending upon your state's laws, you may have to pay your insurance's deductible.
-Frank P.
I imagine they're the brake pedal and clutch position, things like that.
-juice
As long as you're not coming in every other week with imagined problems they should be happy to help you. Besides, I'm pretty sure they can bill SOA for any warranty work so it's not like it's coming out of their pocket.
-Frank P.
2000 and have had a "poping" noise that
occurs during turns and sometimes when
when driving straight and going over bumps.
When pulling into my parking lot at work I
need to make three turns, one right after the other and I get a single POP with each turn.
I plan to get it to the dealer to get checked out
but until then does anyone know what is causing
this mysterious POP sound and can it be fixed??
If that's not it, have them check the rear shocks.
-juice
Ross
Steps listed are as follows:
a) Total the cost of the options for the model and equipment you want.
b) If ordering the vehicle, determine the value of the holdback and subtract this amount. If the dealer orders the vehicle, he won't pay floorplanning (the charge to stock the vehicle), or advertising (an expected cost of business), which the holdback is designed to subsidize.
c) Add the True Market Value price to the list of discounted options.
d) Add the destination charge, which is non-negotiable. Also expect to be charged advertising fees by the auto manufacturer to help pay for those MTV-style TV commercials that got you thinking about a new car in the first place. You should pay no more than 1.5 percent of the vehicle's MSRP.
e) Some dealers charge a delivery and handling (D&H) fee. Negotiate this fee. It's just added profit.
f) Add sales taxes.
g) Deduct any incentives or rebates.
Step C is to add the true market value to the discounted options. How do you determine a fair price for the options added on to a new car?
Does anyone have any additional comments or steps to add to the list above?
I prefer the no-haggle approach. I may cost you $100 more then the snake-oil salesman down the street, but you are generally treated with respect and feel you can trust they are only trying to help you find the model and options you want.
Here's the one I usually refer people to (in the capital area):
http://www.fitzmall.com/
My dad and cousin bought there. I went to a snake-oil salesman, and they tried to pull every trick in the book, mainly bait-and-switch pricing. Their ads look cheaper, but add their processing fee, advertising fee, freight, etc, and it's more than Fitzgerald charges (their prices include all that stuff up front).
My 2 cents'.
-juice
Subaru rocks!
-juice
Juice is right about you still having to find a dealer willing to sell at the price you come up with. There are a lot of local variables that come into play when determining the actual sales price of a vehicle so one formula won't work for every situation.
-Frank P.
There is a dearth of trailer hitches in Vancouver, WA. The dealer installed it for $38 more than invoice price. Bottom line, price wise, was $100 over invoice, plus $249 doc fee, tax and tags. The dealer is now part of Auto Nation and may be selling over the net all over the USA. I am in Arizona, had to travel 90+ miles to get this deal, but it was well worth it, I think.
Drove home on the freeway (Intersate for you easterners) and am exceedingly pleased with the ride, handling and POWER. Have a LONG hill to climb that is about a 2000 to 2500 foot change in elevation. At low speeds (50-55) it did not labor. We'll see what happens after the 3000 mile break in period.
Have two long trips in near future, one to Denver for Thanksgiving and one to Vegas after New Year's Day. Judging by the ride home yesterday, both should be a piece of cake. Will be doing a lot of day trips in the next few weeks, will keep informed of any "quirks", etc.
Arn
I'm very pleased with my decision. I had seriously considered the Hyundai Santa Fe, but went with the Sube because of gas mileage and an all-around better feeling about dumping $20k+ on a vehicle.
FYI, everyone who has a Sube should get a Subaru credit card. Wifey and I use it as a de-facto debit card and earn 5% of every purchase towards a new Sube (she wants an Outback in a couple of years). Subaru of USA just rolled out a plan where you can use your credits towards Subaru maintenance and upgrades, so that stereo might end up being free in a couple months...
I can't wait! Please do keep us posted on your travels!
Nate: same to you. Keep in mind I think it's now 3% on rebates with that credit card. Still, you can use it for accessories, which I love!
-juice
Thanks!
That's why I like no-haggle dealers that don't surprise you at the last minute.
Complain about this and see if they'll split the difference. If not, how good is the deal, and are there other dealers nearby?
-juice
-juice
Any experience with it?
Thanks.
The kit itself is very simple. You pop out this plastic cover, install a bracket with two screws, and then slip in the filter and cover and fasten it.
It's a particle filtration filter, made of paper, like many furnaces use, so it catches dust, dust mites, pet hair, etc. I have asthma so it was a no-brainer.
-juice
I am now the proud owner of a S+ Silverthorne Forester... and today, the first snow of the season is falling. I can test the seat warmers and windshield wiper deicers!
Of course, I have to ask a couple of questions:
my sales person could not tell me how to use the key to open my door without setting the alarm off. It is not in the instructions manual either. Is this a subaru quirk or is there some way that I can work this out?
I know that I have read about a funny smell in the new foresters. What is it? It smells like burning electrical wiring?
Thanks again!
My understanding is that you should always use the romote entry to open/deactivate. If you do open with the key, and the alarm goes off, put the key in the ignition, and turn on/off three times quickly to deactivate it. That will turn it off.
Bob
Hey Juice- wouldn't it be fun to recline on those heated seats and star gaze thru that monster moonroof on a crisp clear winter's night? Sorry, just had to rub it in. ;-)
Re the alarm- Bob is right, when the alarm is activated (either by using the remote or by moving the power door switch to "lock" prior to closing), using the key to open a door will set it off. However, you can lock the vehicle without setting the alarm by either using the key or by manually pushing in the door lock lever (inside the door handle). FYI: if you screw up and accidently set the alarm off, the disarm button on the remote turns it off.
Re new car smell- it offends some more than others. Rest assured that it will eventually go away.
-Frank P.
congrats on your new s+! i am in the market for essentially the same car (and color) -- do you mind if i ask what price you were able to negotiate your vehicle for? thanks.
for other s+ owners-
the only downside i see is the inability to install the side underguard bar. is reaching/cleaning the roof that much more difficult without it? guess it makes a difference how tall you are -- i'm only 5'7".
Bob
Congrats, and it looks like just in time, too.
I know, it's the worst new-car smell in the industry. We don't tell anyone 'cause it goes away in a few weeks!
Norm: you can also stand on the rear tires, as well as the rear bumper. That plus I'm 6', so it's never been an issue for me.
If you're near the nation's capital, consider paying a visit to http://www.fitzautomall.com/. You can go to their site, under new plug in Forester, and you'll find up-front prices that are pretty darn good, with no surprises. Even freight is included, just add state tax and tags.
Some dealer will say they'll beat the price, but then tack on freight, advertising fees, processing fees, etc.
-juice
back in october, genx56 posted a list of steps for determining a fair offering price. in step b he mentions that if you're ordering your forester, you should deduct the dealer holdback (of 3%). is that from the invoice price shown or from edmunds' tmv? also, as far as i know, there are no forester incentives or rebates, right?
Deduct that holdback from the invoice price to find out what the dealer paid, but don't expect to keep that money - it's their only profit in most cases.
On another topic - just got the Consumer Reports 2001 Buyer's Guide, and the '99 Forester had PERFECT scores in reliability, a nice improvement from the first year 1998 model (which was still very good).
The CR-V and RAV4 could not match those scores. In fact, not a single Honda could.
Subaru earend a best pick rating for all its models, and none are listed under reliability risks or used cars to avoid.
Not bad!
-juice
Mike
-Frank P.
P.S. You're welcome to join us in the Owner's Club Subaru forums (which by the way aren't limited to owners, only need to be a fellow Subaru fanatic). :-)
In the past five days, I have driven my soob over 500 miles and I LOVE it... and the stinky new car smell has evaporated
The weather recently turned cold and wet here (Austin, TX) and we've had trouble getting the rear four side windows to defog adequately. The rear window w/ the electric defogger worked great, but the rear sides remained difficult to see through even w/ the fan on high.
Anyone else notice this or have a suggestion?
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
The only time you should have the recirculate button on is in hot weather when used with the A/C.
-brian/subearu
Anyone else go through the same debate?
The macho redneck side of me is begging for the Cherokee, but the feminine practical side is demanding the Forestor.
This is assuming that one doesn't need either car for off-road, only for commuting in occasionally icy/snow conditions in Oregon or Vermont.
Subaru Forester:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/98018.htm
Jeep Cherokee:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/98012.htm
Main overview of small SUVs:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/summary_smsuv.htm
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
The Forester will suit you fine. It rides better and you'll get way better gas mileage too! And if you do venture onto the 'off-road', your Forester will be able to handle it, no problem.
Just my 2 cents. As always, you're results may vary.
-brian/subearu
Ross
2) Price - Forester L 5-speed can be had for 19k.
3) Reliability (as already mentioned)
4) Handling - I used to _drive_ a Ford Probe GT. Enough said.
5) Build Quality
The only drawback to the Forester for guys is Subaru's marketing of it to women. I've caught people joking about my purchase, saying "Should we tell him he bought a wagon and not an SUV" and "Do you know you own the official car of the lesbian community". Who cares what other people think - a Forester purchase shows that you are smart. It's powerful, frugal, solid, durable and will remain that way for many, many years and miles.
-Tony
Best of luck whatever you decide.
-Frank P.
But, again, reliability is the key here (as mentioned previously).
One thing the Jeep has is the fact that there are a lot of them out there. Parts are easy to come by if you need them. And the I-6 is easy to work on. My dad has an 87 Sport 2 door that is still running strong (knock on wood!).
So, if you'll need to tow more than 2000#, then you'll need something other than the Forester. If I need to tow something, I just go to UHaul and rent a truck! Better yet - get a friend who has a truck and borrow his!
-brian/subearu