Dang Steve! Are we going to create a new thread for every model year now? :confuse: It may make sense to some because it allows for a more focused discussion but to me it merely splinters the audience and reduces the likelihood that someone will see a given post and respond.
For instance... I use the Message Center to track the dozen or so discussions that I try and keep current with. So when a new discussion is created, I won't know about it unless someone happens to mention it in one of the discussions that I currently subscribe to.
We've already got a Forester, a Forester XT, a Forester Prices Paid, and numerous Forester vs the competition discussions along with a Subaru Future Models one so do we really need another Subaru Forester thread?
Well, it's a pretty significant model change for '06 isn't it? And this discussion is pushing 17,000 posts which means that stuff, even with the Search This Discussion tool, gets buried pretty deep. I never would have guessed that the XT discussion would hit over 5,000 posts. You guys are prolific posters. :-)
I'll pass the comments along; anyone else who wants to comment, please use the Contact us and it'll get to the home office that much faster.
Remember the good ol' days when our software would cramp up if we went over 500 posts and we had all those II, III, IV, etc. boards?
Well, it's a pretty significant model change for '06 isn't it?
Actually I'd label the 06 as only a mild freshening. The last significant make-over was the 03. The next major model update is tentatively scheduled for 08.
And yes I remember the good ole days well. Although.... IIRC, the limit was closer to 2,000 posts
We are going to start having more threads because the majority of members can't find things in a discussion with 15,000+ posts.
However, to try to accomodate our long standing members (any you're one of the originals!), we are looking to implement a "Subscribe by Make/Model" option which will help you keep track of all the Subie related discussions.
I just did an 1100 mile trip all highway and was averaging between 31 and 32. I was very pleasantly surprised. My 99 Outback Sport never beat 30. I started with around 9900 miles on the vehicle for this trip. I keep the "geolanders" between 34 and 35 lbs of pressure per dealer instructions.
They said that will give you the best MPG and make the tires last longer...if you can stand the logwagon ride. They indicated that the 29 lbs on the door is for "comfort."
On a trip across South Dakota averaging between 70 and 75 mph, I got right at 21 miles per gallon towing a 1700 lb popup. That was a pleasant surprise also.
And to think I almost spent 3500 more for a Baja...
I have not heard many good things about Geolanders. It was some kind of special deal between Yokahama and Subaru for the Forester. I hear I get to look forward to some excellent hydroplaning at some point. Did you have any problems?
On my Outback Sport (99) original equipment was Goodrich Radial TA's. I Got 80K out of my first ones with fantastic performance all the way through. I was on my second ones at 147K when I traded for the Forester. When the dealer sold it they left two of them on. I figured another 10 K out of that last set.
So, guess what I am going to get when the Geolanders are shot which should be relatively soon... The TA's do come in the size for the Forester...
I was talking to my dad about my trip next week to Colorado. He reminded me of the time he was in Cheyenne and had to have the carb adjusted on his Jeep because of the altitude. This was quite a few years ago.
Have any of you had to make any adjustments? I'm guessing that my '01 L has some computerized self-correcting feature.
I don't want my performance to disappear into thin air.
One of the wonders of fuel injection with computerized fuel and ignition. It doe all the adjustments for you on a second by second basis. You are likely to notice very little, if any, difference.
In the old carb days (BFI = Before Fuel Injection), I remember crossing the Rockies in my Volvo 122S with SU carbs. I would have to adjust the carbs about every 5,000 feet to maintain decent performance! Seemed like a challenge then, now would be pure drugery!
Forester X with about 560 miles. Subaru says the break in period is 1,000 miles, and not to drive at a steady speed for a long time during that period. We are going on a 600 mile trip tomorrow. How carefully do I really need to follow that suggestion? I have always tried to change speeds every few minutes with previous cars, but it might be annoying to my wife and daughter -- as well as annoying to me on a long drive such as this one.
has anyone used invoicedealers.com? i'm wondering if i should bother using them on the 2006 forester i want. it's so new, i can't imagine that there's that many holdbacks or whatever. anyone get this one, are there holdbacks? thanks
Holdback on a Subaru is 3% (link), but I'm guessing you really mean Incentives & Rebates. I don't see any for any '06 Subaru, at least not in my zip code.
i know how to get a quote from online, i've gotten a few. once i have these, now what? do i bring in the printouts they gave me? are these the actual prices i'll be paying? do i have to worry about the "extra fee's", like ad's, prep, doc, etc?
i'm new to the whole paying at invoice thing through the internet. we always went in and haggled a deal in person. i'm a little lost right now. and no matter where i look, they all point where to go to get the price, but not tell us what to do with it once we have it.
I've noticed an intermittent problem with my ambient temperature sensor on my '03 XS over the last two weeks. Sometimes it reads fine, sometimes it reads 10 or so degrees low, even after driving for a long period of time. I know the display controller is not "frozen" because even when it reads low, I'll see it rise and fall a few degrees while driving. It was 90 out yesterday, but the temp. display showed it initially at 76, and slowly climbed to 81 over about 30 minutes of driving.
I have the Forester Technical Reference Manual, and it describes the location and procedure to remove the sensor in order to check it for proper function. The problem is, I can't get the sensor disconnected to save my life!
It's under the front bumper, just in front of the radiator, behind the lower air intake. You have to squeeze your hands through the intake to get access to it. It's very awkward! There's a connector harness with a release tab on it, but no matter how hard I push or pull, I can't get the harness off. Even then, the sensor itself seems to be press fit into a metal tab, which doesn't seem to be easily removable either. I need to get behind there with a dental mirror and try again.
Has anyone else ever successfully removed their temperature sensor? Out of curiosity, has anyone else ever had a problem with their temperature sensor? Any tips or suggestions here?
The tech. ref. manual states that a properly functioning sensor will read exactly 3 k-ohms at 77 deg. F (25 C). If I can remove and test it, I can hopefully diagnose the problem myself and save a bundle of money over having the dealer fix it.
Murphy's Law -- my Forester is only 3 weeks out of its bumper to bumper warranty!!
Try to get the dealer to fix it under the warranty since it is so close or call the 1-800 number to see what they say, eg, give Subaru a chance to fix it at no cost to you before you go any further. If you can't remove it, I would try to wipe it clean as much as possible and look for air obstructions around it. Anythinig else I would leave to the dealer.
I was given similar tip before on picking up my VW Passat, I wonder what's the reason behind this? I suppose I forgot to ask the dealer because of all the excitement...
You're just giving the engine time to break-in without also having to handle too heavy a constant load, and preparing it for variable conditions that'll occur down the road.
If you get a stick shift I would even shift once in a while, use 4th to pass maybe.
Are airbags supposed to last for the life of the car? And if they do not, is there any kind of warranty? Just curious, as my '98 Forester has 125,000 miles and it and the airbag light came on back in May. I had the 120,000 mile tuneup and asked them to check the airbag light but they said everything checked out okay. I was away all of June and when I returned the light still glowed, so I took it in yesterday to find that the roll connector and airbag assembly was "defective" and non-functioning.
Replacement of these parts is about $1400 and I wondered if Subaru had any kind of airbag warranty or is it just something that happens with time? I had assumed this was my responsibility, but a friend has encouraged me to investigate the possibility of warranty. Anyone know about this?
does anyone think that this sub/tweeter combo is worth it? i'm trying to decide if i should go with my own, or use there's. the price is about the same more or less. if i install it, i can place it where i want (i'd like to install it on the bottom of the seat, so there is still space for feet). but the tweeter package are round usually, and they won't fit in that little triangle forester has.
compared to something better - i'm thinking either:
I got the subwoofer and tweeter package. I am *very* happy with the sound; however, I do not like really loud bass (something about being over 40). The tweeters are very inexpensive, and really provide a much crisper sound.
The only issues I have had is tuning the sub is a bear, and I have occaisionally had something land on top of the sub (like a piece of paper). That results in really anoying distortion.
I remember a long discussion here some time ago about the importance to have all tires of the same size, to avoid continuous stress on the central diff system. As far as I can remember, the difference between your spare wheel and the 3 other should not be more than a few mm. I wonder if adjusting tire pressure could be used to -temporarily- adjust tire size. For instance, if I have to use a brand new spare wheel while other tires are 50% worn, I could over-inflate the 3 used tire and under-inflate the new tire What do you think about this idea ? - I will just drive like this the time needed to fix the punctured tire (or to replace all tires) - what is worse: driving with different pressures or driving with different sizes ? - any idea about how much the pressure difference should be to compensate a given difference in size ?
but as juice said, you get into safety issues below 28 psi.
Have you ever tried to judge a tire's psi by how much it compresses the sidewall? Almost impossible to get it within 10 psi.
Keep in mind, tire circumferences in real driving change all the time depending on the load exerted by the car and road conditions.
A few mm's, temporarily, won't matter.
And, the Forester is the only Subie with a full size spare. All the others have a much more exagerated diffence with their temporary spare vs. the full size.
So drive with confidence (but get it repaired asap).
Oops! Since I'm hitting the road soon, I just checked all my tires and brought the spare up to 32psi to match the others. Maybe I should have left it low.
Here's another idea: keep a roll of duct tape in the car. If you get a flat, you can jack up the other 3 tires and wrap them with the duct tape until they match circumference with the spare. :shades:
I'm new to the forum having just purchased a new 2005 Forester X so hopefully this hasn't already been covered some place. Specifically I would like to know a few of the aftermarket places where I could find good decent looking splash guards. I like the look of the OE splash guards, but $124 seems high for what you are getting. Any alternatives other than the flat mud flaps you find at the local generic auto parts store?
I would also be interested in hearing how hard it would be to put in the triangle tweeters if I were to get some. Also would the tweeters by them selves be a big improvement.
Has anyone had any trouble with the gas pump (from the gas station) stopping before the tank is full? When the pump is set on auto, it will stop after a few seconds, as if the tank was full. I know the tank is almost empty and I have gone to many different stations and brands all with the same result. If you hold the lever on the pump, it works fine. Also, if you place the pump upside down, it tends to work too. Here in New Jersey, you are not supposed to pump the gas yourself. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated. Thanks!
Can't answer the after-market mud flap question but you can order the OE ones cheaper online. The tweeters are simple to install (basically plug and play) and do make a signficant difference.
kayak15: here's an insider's tip - get a Chase Subaru credit card. You earn 3% back in Subaru Bucks, which you can use to buy accessories, pay for service, parts, even body shop work to fix those annoying dings!
Try e-mailing parts@libertysubaru.com to get a wholesale price quote. What are some of the other sites, folks?
We accumulated $400 in Subaru Bucks, but get this - we've spent them all! LOL
I was hoping to save up for my next Subie, but it's better to use them vs. lose them, so we've paid for accessories and service and haven't spent a dime on anything since we bought it.
I followed your advice and have received the Chase Subaru card to start earning my Subaru Bucks. I earned my first credits on my trip to Chicago this week. There is supposed to be a special offer right now for new Subie owners who sign up for the card ... you get a certificate for $25.00 worth of Subaru Bucks just for getting the card. I haven't gotten the certificate yet -- but I hope it is "in the mail."
Comments
For instance... I use the Message Center to track the dozen or so discussions that I try and keep current with. So when a new discussion is created, I won't know about it unless someone happens to mention it in one of the discussions that I currently subscribe to.
We've already got a Forester, a Forester XT, a Forester Prices Paid, and numerous Forester vs the competition discussions along with a Subaru Future Models one so do we really need another Subaru Forester thread?
-Frank
I'll pass the comments along; anyone else who wants to comment, please use the Contact us and it'll get to the home office that much faster.
Remember the good ol' days when our software would cramp up if we went over 500 posts and we had all those II, III, IV, etc. boards?
Steve, Host
Actually I'd label the 06 as only a mild freshening. The last significant make-over was the 03. The next major model update is tentatively scheduled for 08.
And yes I remember the good ole days well. Although.... IIRC, the limit was closer to 2,000 posts
-Frank
However, to try to accomodate our long standing members (any you're one of the originals!), we are looking to implement a "Subscribe by Make/Model" option which will help you keep track of all the Subie related discussions.
Steve, Host
tidester, host
Thank you for all your insights. I have decided to go the 'middle of the road' route and get it done every 5K miles.
Btw, I took the Subie on a long trip and it was very enjoyable. Looking forward to many more trips and miles.
Regards,
Sony.
I mean, 7500, 15000, 22500? Who's gonna remember that last one?
-juice
This is very helpful.
Kavoom>LL Bean edition load leveling IS just in the Struts (internal shock design). Similiar to what I've seen on Caravans the past 5-7 yrs.<<
They said that will give you the best MPG and make the tires last longer...if you can stand the logwagon ride. They indicated that the 29 lbs on the door is for "comfort."
On a trip across South Dakota averaging between 70 and 75 mph, I got right at 21 miles per gallon towing a 1700 lb popup. That was a pleasant surprise also.
And to think I almost spent 3500 more for a Baja...
Glad to hear you did so well. Gas station owners must hate you. :P
-juice
Colin would probably disagree but I seriously doubt anyone in the oil industry is in any danger of growing broke
-Frank
-juice
On my Outback Sport (99) original equipment was Goodrich Radial TA's. I Got 80K out of my first ones with fantastic performance all the way through. I was on my second ones at 147K when I traded for the Forester. When the dealer sold it they left two of them on. I figured another 10 K out of that last set.
So, guess what I am going to get when the Geolanders are shot which should be relatively soon... The TA's do come in the size for the Forester...
Have any of you had to make any adjustments? I'm guessing that my '01 L has some computerized self-correcting feature.
I don't want my performance to disappear into thin air.
In the old carb days (BFI = Before Fuel Injection), I remember crossing the Rockies in my Volvo 122S with SU carbs. I would have to adjust the carbs about every 5,000 feet to maintain decent performance! Seemed like a challenge then, now would be pure drugery!
The 2.5 boxer is called a multi-point injection system. I guess that means I can be any point on the map and the fuel will still inject. :shades:
I am trying to imagine your Volvo at 10,000 ft, parked on a runaway truck ramp with the hood popped while you adjust the carbs.
---Mike Savad
---Mike Savad
Steve, Host
i'm new to the whole paying at invoice thing through the internet. we always went in and haggled a deal in person. i'm a little lost right now. and no matter where i look, they all point where to go to get the price, but not tell us what to do with it once we have it.
any ideas? thanks in advance.
---Mike Savad
Steve, Host
I have the Forester Technical Reference Manual, and it describes the location and procedure to remove the sensor in order to check it for proper function. The problem is, I can't get the sensor disconnected to save my life!
It's under the front bumper, just in front of the radiator, behind the lower air intake. You have to squeeze your hands through the intake to get access to it. It's very awkward! There's a connector harness with a release tab on it, but no matter how hard I push or pull, I can't get the harness off. Even then, the sensor itself seems to be press fit into a metal tab, which doesn't seem to be easily removable either. I need to get behind there with a dental mirror and try again.
Has anyone else ever successfully removed their temperature sensor? Out of curiosity, has anyone else ever had a problem with their temperature sensor? Any tips or suggestions here?
The tech. ref. manual states that a properly functioning sensor will read exactly 3 k-ohms at 77 deg. F (25 C). If I can remove and test it, I can hopefully diagnose the problem myself and save a bundle of money over having the dealer fix it.
Murphy's Law -- my Forester is only 3 weeks out of its bumper to bumper warranty!!
Thanks,
Elliot
-juice
If you get a stick shift I would even shift once in a while, use 4th to pass maybe.
-juice
Replacement of these parts is about $1400 and I wondered if Subaru had any kind of airbag warranty or is it just something that happens with time? I had assumed this was my responsibility, but a friend has encouraged me to investigate the possibility of warranty. Anyone know about this?
compared to something better - i'm thinking either:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-v6ugFnrKo2d/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?wm=fp&I=113KSCSW1&g=51000 the kenwood
or
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-z0jfrCKYxFy/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=020SRV303 the clarion (which might be the same as subaru, not sure).
any help?
thanks
---Mike Savad
The only issues I have had is tuning the sub is a bear, and I have occaisionally had something land on top of the sub (like a piece of paper). That results in really anoying distortion.
As far as I can remember, the difference between your spare wheel and the 3 other should not be more than a few mm.
I wonder if adjusting tire pressure could be used to -temporarily- adjust tire size.
For instance, if I have to use a brand new spare wheel while other tires are 50% worn, I could over-inflate the 3 used tire and under-inflate the new tire
What do you think about this idea ?
- I will just drive like this the time needed to fix the punctured tire (or to replace all tires)
- what is worse: driving with different pressures or driving with different sizes ?
- any idea about how much the pressure difference should be to compensate a given difference in size ?
I don't think the difference would be great, though.
For temporary use even a donut would do, so you'll be fine.
-juice
Have you ever tried to judge a tire's psi by how much it compresses the sidewall? Almost impossible to get it within 10 psi.
Keep in mind, tire circumferences in real driving change all the time depending on the load exerted by the car and road conditions.
A few mm's, temporarily, won't matter.
And, the Forester is the only Subie with a full size spare. All the others have a much more exagerated diffence with their temporary spare vs. the full size.
So drive with confidence (but get it repaired asap).
John
Here's another idea: keep a roll of duct tape in the car. If you get a flat, you can jack up the other 3 tires and wrap them with the duct tape until they match circumference with the spare. :shades:
And when you change the tires you'll say, "What took me so long?!"
Congrats!
-Dennis
I would also be interested in hearing how hard it would be to put in the triangle tweeters if I were to get some. Also would the tweeters by them selves be a big improvement.
Thanks in advance for your help.
-Frank
Try e-mailing parts@libertysubaru.com to get a wholesale price quote. What are some of the other sites, folks?
We accumulated $400 in Subaru Bucks, but get this - we've spent them all! LOL
I was hoping to save up for my next Subie, but it's better to use them vs. lose them, so we've paid for accessories and service and haven't spent a dime on anything since we bought it.
-juice
I followed your advice and have received the Chase Subaru card to start earning my Subaru Bucks. I earned my first credits on my trip to Chicago this week. There is supposed to be a special offer right now for new Subie owners who sign up for the card ... you get a certificate for $25.00 worth of Subaru Bucks just for getting the card. I haven't gotten the certificate yet -- but I hope it is "in the mail."