R Baer- Congrats on your new Forester! I've always been partial to black cars but they sure do show the dirt.
Re. dog proofing the interior, there's a company that manufacturers something called a "hatch bag" (IIRC) that covers the entire expanded cargo area from window to window and hatch to front seat. It's a thick vinyl material that's also waterproof. They're also customized for different makes and models (hopefully to include the Forester) I don't recall the name of the manufacturer but I'm pretty sure they advertise in all the mainstream auto/truck magazines.
Re pet gates, I've never used one but Subaru's aftermarket one appears pretty decent. Otherwise, I'm sure Pet Smart or a similar outfit carries something suitable. Let us know what you end up with.
Re cargo carriers, soft or hard-shell are your two basic choices. Hard-shells are more expensive and bulky to store but are more waterproof, aerodynamic, and secure. However, IIRC, Juice bought a soft-shell from Sears for a little over a hundred and has been very satisfied with it.
Re window tinting, definitely a worthwhile option for your Forester. Edmund's window tinting forum has more info on the subject than you'd think possible.
Nick- If the dots are under the clearcoat, then I don't see how it could be rust since the metal oxidation process which causes rust requires exposure to the air.
Tom- Definitely sounds like you've got a defective cooler. It shouldn't be blowing fuses like that.
I'm finally back. Sandy took the 4 of us to the beach and back, along with bikes on the hitch and gear on the roof in the Samsonite carrier. We had a blast and the weather cooperated nicely.
Where do I start? Perrito - I'd ask a dealer to go along on a test drive to see your clutch clatter. Maybe they can adjust it or replace the pressure plate.
A good friend calls C&D "Nutcase Militia Monthly". One of Brock Yates' articles in the current issue was downright offensive. I wish they would stick to writing about the cars and only the cars, which is the only thing they're good at.
Hatch rattling? I agree - look at the latch and have it adjusted. Same if it does not close on the first try.
Someone asked about towing - I've hauled probably about 1500 lbs in a trailer, and my Forester did fine. You have to drive deliberately and defensively, but I hauled two loads of wood chips on a 5'x8' trailer with no problems. Trailer brakes would have made things even easier.
For $24k, at least in the DC area, you can pretty much get a loaded up Premium. Not bad considering all the equipment you get - no competitor offers such a comprehensive list of features.
For the dogs? I suggest a trip to the hardware store. See if they have any outdoor carpet that fits your needs, then buy a few yards and trim it for a custom fit with an exacto knife. You can even match colors, and replace it in a few years cheaply.
I'd use the OE dog gate for the one dog.
My carrier is actually a Samsonite, purchase on-line for $50. I've seen them at luggage outlets for $40, though, and places like Target and Wal Mart have similar ones. Soft carriers can be shaped and fit a lot (13 cubic feet in mine) and are water resistant (not water proof though), plus they are cheap and take up no storage space. I am happy with mine and have used it several times on 3-7 hour trips.
Sorry if I gave you the impression that I was irritated, I certainly don't feel that way and welcome any and all comments and questions about your Soob. I prefer an open and honest forum, even if a few nagging problems get a bit frustrating (for the owner, not me).
Driveline lash? Hmm, I guess it is a vehicle that must be driven smoothly. Your actions directly control all 4 wheels full time, so any jerkiness in acceleration or in your clutch action will certainly have a direct effect on the wheels and cause a surge. The clutch's "friction point" does seem relatively high up in the travel of the pedal (this may be adjustable but I am used to it).
When my wife hops in, her driving can seem a little jerky until she gets the hang of the clutch, I guess. But I feel that way for the first instant I'm in her car, too.
Mine rewards ultra-smooth driving. Yes, that means feathering the clutch, but mine has 40k miles and is still going strong, even though I've towed a few times (where you really have to slip the clutch) and taken it off road.
One thing to keep in mind is that there is not as much "play" in them as there is in some other cars. By that I mean tolerances are tight, as in most high quality autos.
For example, the Aussies with 4" lifts have tranny teething problems. You could probably lift a Ford pickup and there would be enough play to tolerate that kind of change.
On the Forester, the catch is, if anything is slightly out of whack, it will stand out. For example, the ride is quiet, so some people can hear the fuel pump! Wow!
However, I would check your throttle cable. There should be an ever-so-slight amount of slack built-in. This is so the throttle feels smooth.
I manually tightened the slack on my Miata too much, and ended up with a high idle and jerky acceleration. So I let some slack back out and it's fine. I'd check yours out of curiosity.
Plus, that jerkiness means you're getting an immediate response when you accelerate, which is much better than the hesitation my Mustang used to give me! :-)
Juice-- I think you hit the nail on the head! It just might be a throttle cable "problem!" The accelerator does seem more sensitive than most and this might just be the sensation that I'm feeling. Unfair as it might be, I keep comparing this car to my A4 ...I believe the A4 now uses a dbw (drive-by-wire) throttle so the its throttle response is buttery smooth and very intuitive. On the Forester, however, modulating the throttle is abrupt and very sensitive, like, as you proposed, it might not have enoughslack or play built-in. I'll definitely do some more checking on this aspect which I never even remotely considered. It definitely is not a clutch problem for this "lash" is happening after the clutch has already been engaged.
Thank you so much, Juice! Once again, as Kate referred to earlier, your wonderfully broad knowledge of cars shines through again! I appreciate your taking the time to respond to my concerns. Being acknowledged by you really makes me feel "part of the family" now! Thank you, Juice!
I was trying to find a photo showing the throttle mechanism but can't. The Miata had a wire that looked like the same kind used in mountain bikes for brakes and gear shifts. It was a matter of loosening one bolt to adjust it.
R Baer -- Congrats on the new Stubby. I'm relatively new here also, just buying an '01 S back in July. Mainly because I travel with 1 sometimes 2 dogs to dog trials (agility and flyball) all over the Southeast (I live in FL). So I can give you my .02 on the dog issues.
This is what I did for my cargo area, which is almost always in "seats-down" mode (and I had leather installed after-market so I have the same concerns as you). I went to home depot (or your nearest equivilant) and bought 5' of a 6' wide indoor/outdoor grey carpeting (it almost matches, good enough for me). I then bought a roll of brown packing paper, enough to tape together a couple long pieces to create (cut out) a pattern of the back cargo area from back door to the back of the front seats. I then cut the carpet to match, leaving it about 5" longer than needed. This I just drap over those immense backseat headrests, so they are protected from those pesky toenails. I then used a bit of double-sided carpet tape to secure the carpet to the cargo area. I also cut a line in the carpet where the back seats separate, so I can still put up one side of the back seat or the other, and still leave the carpet in place. It's not totally waterproof (we go to the beach also), but it's cheap (about $13.00) and can be easily vacuumed and replaced when necessary, and keeps the regular cargo carpeting in mint condition.
Hatchbag also makes a net that stretches between the back of the front seats and the cargo area. I have one that we use in the Volvo wagon. However, I don't think the installation that Hatchbag employs will work in the Forester, because of the way they made the windows. You'd have to check with Hatchbag (www.hatchbag.com). I've also tried several of the metal pet barriers, all are noisy and most don't fit well in any vehicle. I like the hatchbag pet net the best. However, I now have just trained the dogs to stay out of the front seat, and don't use a barrier in the Stubby.
I also have a Thule cargo box, which I have used on our Volvo wagon (with Thule bars). In theory, I should be able to secure the box directly to the Forester's factory roof racks. I will try this for a trip to MS in Sept and let you know my results. The problem with most boxes is that you will only get about 100 lbs of load (based on the rating of the Forester roof racks and the weight of the box itself). I load the thing as full as it will go with the Thule racks on the Volvo wagon, and it's bliss (this is the old Weekender box, now known as the Excursion, about 13 cu feet of storage, about $240). I settled on the box instead of just a basket, so there's no problem with rain, sleet, snow (for trips to Ohio) and I can carry all sorts of dog trial gear which isn't nice neat square suitcases. You're needs/results may vary.
Sorry this was so long. The first month and a half of Stubby ownership has been a thin slice of heaven. Made a couple short trips to Orlando for a WNBA half-time show and a flyball tourney. Not getting good gas mileage, but the A/C works great! Still dislike the cupholders, but I'm coping.
Man, I feel like I keep repeating this ... sorry I've been MIA. I was on the golf course, a few days back, and while looking in the woods for a ball I stepped on a yellow-jacket nest. They took immediate exception to my action ... yadda yadda yadda .. I spent 3 days in the hospital. Nope, not allergic just overly penetrated. Over 100 stings .. I hate bees!
I never got to explain the final disposition of the Aquatreds. Seems that although Gdyr. replaced one tire (the 1st trip back) there was a second bad tire that they missed. Anyway, that got replaced and everything works! Actually, with the recent heavy rain in the area I've had a chance to "play" with the new rubber in some significant water. They work! If the Aquatreds live up to the snow performance rating then this is a really good tire for the Forester. - hutch
Hmm, everyone I've spoken to from mechinics to tire-places say the aquatreads are great for the first 5-10K miles, then once they are worn down a bit, they become like an ordinary tire. I"ll be curious to see how they last for you Hutch.
-mike
PS: Teaches you not to golf, should have been using the WRX as the cart
I used newspaper the first time (to make a pattern) for the Volvo. It was actually a pain to tape together enough pages, plus the ink factor was annoying. That's why I thought the brown wrapping paper was brilliant (and cheap).
Anyway, I also used double sided tape intended to secure throw rugs to the floor, not the heavily glued tape I think you're thinking of. This is lightweight stuff, with just enough stickiness to keep the carpet from sliding around. No mess, no fuss.
The blanket idea would work for some dogs, but not mine My one nut-job wack-o Australian Shepherd likes to make a nest, so the blanket would end up in a ball wherever she decided to finally lay down.
AJ: we have so much in common, beyond the same name that is! I also have dogs, and Hadji is a bit acrobatic, too. I can get him to jump through hula-hoops, and catch tennis balls, though he's a bit small (12 lbs) for frisbees.
Hutch: we too have a lot in common. My slice is so bad I'm afraid I'll get poison ivy when I golf from walking through the woods all day! ;-)
Juice: You'd be surprised at what you could get Hadji to do. We have a min pin in our frisbee club that weighs about 4 lbs. He's a hoot! He does agility too.
Make some jumps, get a tunnel and you can start training Hadji for agility, too! Flyball is all about tennis balls. Sounds like you have an ideal canine athlete.
Hey Hutch, at least it wasn't a gator... glad to hear you survived
When my wife's service agreement expired on her Forester, she asked if I thought going to the Jiffy Lube for her next oil change was ok, since she didn't want to spend a lot of time waiting at the dealer. I said sure; I'd done it for years with a previous car without much trouble.
Long story short, they drained the differential instead of the crankcase. Her transmission burned out on the highway leaving her stranded for two hours until I and a tow truck could arrive.
After Jiffy Lube accepted blame (much quicker than I thought they would) they agreed to pay for the new transmission ($4600), the oil change, and a rental car (Toyota Corolla) but balked at the idea of paying for lost wages, cell phone calls, etc.
Does this seem fair? I don't have a holy war planned (yet) but they sure don't seem to be going all out to make things right.
I also think it sound pretty fair. You may be able to get the cell phone calls in since you can show them on a statement, but then again, are you talking about a few dollars? Lost wages is going to be tough.
Using those quick lube places can be risky, as you've found out. Changing your own oil on Subarus are super-easy, but if you prefer to outsource, I'd suggest using a dealer or reputable shop. Usually, the prices aren't that different -- it just takes a little longer.
The one issue not discussed is if they drained your diffy did the then put the oil in the undrained crankcase and overfill it by 4+ quarts? If so was (is) it driven this way?
gooddesign - I would take the deal but not "sign off" on anything to keep your options open.
We don't have any dogs, but we have 6 cats, 2 of which are bigger than Juice's dog!
2 of my cats will play fetch, 3 (there's some overlap here) will leap 4-5' into the air to snag a tossed milk ring, 1 thinks he is a goalie and wants to stop things I slide across the floor (can't score through the 5 hole, too many legs!), 1 will catch cotton balls bounced high off of a wall, and 1 flips me a paw everything I suggest anything!
They claim that the "pit" person drained differential by mistake and then drained oil and told the "top" guy to fill both oil and differential.
They offered that the "top" guy forgot about the latter. This makes sense to me, I suppose.
And we have no intention of waiving any rights or signing off on anything. We just want the soobie back and to not have any problems in the future... I'll post a follow-up soon, although the tranny is on back order.
I would check the oil. Even if they did drain the crankcase first too often they overfill. When I say "they" I mean any shop, service station or dealer.
I think its a fair deal, considering they did take responsibility without hassle and agreed to pay for the new tranny. That's rather surprising to me...considering how some repair shops/dealers operate ( Please, no techs on this broad take offense, I do not mean to insult or offende ) My brother worked at a Jiffy Lube when he first started out as a mechanic...even he wouldn't use one, and he preachs that too.
I have been using Valvoline Instant Oil Change for a long time, both for my old 94 Nissan Sentra and my 98 Forester, and I have not had any problems with them. No matter which location I go to the techs all know exactly how to change a Sube's oil correctly. Only thing is some locations require you to bring in an OE filter. I think some sub drivers complained about oil leaks with Valvoline filters. I think the crush washer has something to do with it as the valvoline filters don't come with one. so if you have a VIOC around your area, you might want to check them out.
Was the leak at the filter? The crush washer goes on the drain plug not the filter. I still feel no matter how much you trust the shop I would still check the oil level when they are through. My wife's Civic was overfilled at a reputable repair shop and my Soob at a dealer.
A few months ago, you gave me the name and number of the place where you get filters, etc. I ordered some filters, crush washers, etc. and cannot find the name of the lady or the phone number. If you could get that to me I'd appreciate it and I promise I'll put it in a safe place this time!! Thanks!
Nick, I also had a problem with little orange dots appearing on my new Forester. What I eventually realized was that these were due to tree sap falling off the maple trees on my block. Check to see if it could be sap falling off of trees where you park. None of the tree sap/bug/tar removers I tried did anything to get rid of the stuff. Finally, I used a clay bar (Mother's). It took a few hours, but took off all the dots. After waxing the car (Prestone Bullet Wax), regular weekly cleanings (soap and water) have gotten rid of all the newly fallen sap with no problems whatsoever. Good Luck.
I just purchased an 02 Forester S w/prm pkg and am very happy with my first Subaru. I'd like some advice on adding a security system. specifically should I get the system from a Subaru dealer or third party? Also, any comments about pricing? Thanks.
Generally, the insurance industry finds you get better results from OE systems. They are usually better integrated. I think Subaru's isn't expensive, so why not?
Hey guys, I think I am gonna start doing my own oil changes soon. paying $50 bucks for a synthetic oil change is getting expensive. So just curious as to what oil filters are everyone using? I am tempted to get the K&N one's but am also considering the PureOne one's. I'll stay away from Fram filters for now since I have been reading some pretty bad things about them. Any other brands I should consider? Just out of curiousity, I think I read something about a twin filter system that can be installed on a Forester, anyone has a manufacture name or web address I can get more info at??
Yep, that's them. I knew the dealer was back in business, but the web site is new. They didn't have one before (the parts site was something quick and dirty I helped Darlene put up).
I'm going to give her a ring. I still need a bumper and taillight.
Just spoke to Darlene. Poor woman is sooo frustrated. The dealership owner still hasn't been paying the bills. Subaru will not ship any parts to her, and UPS won't bother to even pick them up because even they have not been paid.
The guy is in denial about declaring bankruptcy, and until a new owner or fresh financing comes along, Darlene is stuck reading novels instead of ordering parts.
Thanks to Jiffy Lube and Sube Dealers, I started changing my oil myself. Everytime I brought my Outback to Jiffy, they would spill oil all over the engine and it would smell like it was burning for weeks. The last time I let my dealer change the oil, they over filled it AND spilled it all over the place. What's wrong with these peoeple?? And oil change is the most basic thing!
Stephen-- IMO, and as Juice stated, I also believe that the OEM security system is the way to go. Mine was already on the car but I really don't care for security systems that much. I'd almost consider taking mine off and sending it to you *lol* ...but the OEM system can be had for less than $200 at most dealers, uninstalled, of course.
Juice and Bit-- Both those online parts suppliers which you mentioned, Juice, are located here in Washington state (Pierce county) and are on-line divisions of local dealership parts departments. Subaruparts.com = Tacoma Subaru (Titus group) and 1stsubaruparts.com = Puyallup Subaru. Thus, I have to pay our hefty (8.5-8.8%) sales tax on top of the shipping charges. My question is: does anybody know of any other dealers outside of Washington state that have online parts divisions? I'm sure there are many in the country but I have no idea where to start. I think Qsubaruparts is in TN somewhere but did they go out of business or did they just stop doing online business?? Bit, does that site you mentioned have an online catalog??
Michael-- Over on Club Vmag, someone started a thread the other day on Synlube filters. Most think that it is in fact "snake-oil" for who would want to keep a filter on for 100k miles? I think you guys (Subarucrew) discussed this on the maintenance thread somewhere, at sometime but I can't find the discussion right now. http://www.synlube.com/prod06.htm
Juice-- Okay, thanks... that's too bad --and yeah, I have considered making the trip to buy parts at those dealerships but they're still 40-50 miles away through heavy traffic so I'd still probably be better off purchasing parts, etc., at one of the dealerships here in my own metropolitan area and paying the slightly higher price. I guess there's no other way around it unless I can find some online source that's out of state and sells for a pretty good price and has low shipping charges ...sheesh, that isn't too much of a requirement, is it?? *lol*
I've seen the pix on the web but no size descriptions. juice, I believe you're running 225/60R16, but what else would work? If I go plus 1, what would I run - 225/50R17? 225/45R17? Or something else?
Mike -- Wise choice on the oil changes. I also used to outsource it, but got tired of the high prices and the risk of overfilling. Changing oil on the Forester is super easy. Stick to OEM Subaru or Purolator filters.
-- Okay, there's clearly a demand for a Subaru parts but there doesn't seem to be a competent source. Someone should just start a mail/internet based business and hire Darlene.
That's exactly what I told her. Get a business loan. She's salaried, though, and it's a bit risky opening your own business.
215/55R17 is closest to the original diameter (+.6%). 225/50R17 would probably be good as well (-1.1%).
You could pick slightly different sizes depending upon what you were trying to accomplish. The 215/55s would gain a tiny bit of clearance and give you more relaxed gearing. The 225/50s would sacrifice a tiny bit of clearance for more aggressive gearing and mega-sharp handling, given the short sidewalls.
If you went to a 17" rim I would stay on pavement.
Comments
Re. dog proofing the interior, there's a company that manufacturers something called a "hatch bag" (IIRC) that covers the entire expanded cargo area from window to window and hatch to front seat. It's a thick vinyl material that's also waterproof. They're also customized for different makes and models (hopefully to include the Forester) I don't recall the name of the manufacturer but I'm pretty sure they advertise in all the mainstream auto/truck magazines.
Re pet gates, I've never used one but Subaru's aftermarket one appears pretty decent. Otherwise, I'm sure Pet Smart or a similar outfit carries something suitable. Let us know what you end up with.
Re cargo carriers, soft or hard-shell are your two basic choices. Hard-shells are more expensive and bulky to store but are more waterproof, aerodynamic, and secure. However, IIRC, Juice bought a soft-shell from Sears for a little over a hundred and has been very satisfied with it.
Re window tinting, definitely a worthwhile option for your Forester. Edmund's window tinting forum has more info on the subject than you'd think possible.
Nick- If the dots are under the clearcoat, then I don't see how it could be rust since the metal oxidation process which causes rust requires exposure to the air.
Tom- Definitely sounds like you've got a defective cooler. It shouldn't be blowing fuses like that.
-Frank P.
Where do I start? Perrito - I'd ask a dealer to go along on a test drive to see your clutch clatter. Maybe they can adjust it or replace the pressure plate.
A good friend calls C&D "Nutcase Militia Monthly". One of Brock Yates' articles in the current issue was downright offensive. I wish they would stick to writing about the cars and only the cars, which is the only thing they're good at.
Hatch rattling? I agree - look at the latch and have it adjusted. Same if it does not close on the first try.
Someone asked about towing - I've hauled probably about 1500 lbs in a trailer, and my Forester did fine. You have to drive deliberately and defensively, but I hauled two loads of wood chips on a 5'x8' trailer with no problems. Trailer brakes would have made things even easier.
For $24k, at least in the DC area, you can pretty much get a loaded up Premium. Not bad considering all the equipment you get - no competitor offers such a comprehensive list of features.
For the dogs? I suggest a trip to the hardware store. See if they have any outdoor carpet that fits your needs, then buy a few yards and trim it for a custom fit with an exacto knife. You can even match colors, and replace it in a few years cheaply.
I'd use the OE dog gate for the one dog.
My carrier is actually a Samsonite, purchase on-line for $50. I've seen them at luggage outlets for $40, though, and places like Target and Wal Mart have similar ones. Soft carriers can be shaped and fit a lot (13 cubic feet in mine) and are water resistant (not water proof though), plus they are cheap and take up no storage space. I am happy with mine and have used it several times on 3-7 hour trips.
-juice
Driveline lash? Hmm, I guess it is a vehicle that must be driven smoothly. Your actions directly control all 4 wheels full time, so any jerkiness in acceleration or in your clutch action will certainly have a direct effect on the wheels and cause a surge. The clutch's "friction point" does seem relatively high up in the travel of the pedal (this may be adjustable but I am used to it).
When my wife hops in, her driving can seem a little jerky until she gets the hang of the clutch, I guess. But I feel that way for the first instant I'm in her car, too.
Mine rewards ultra-smooth driving. Yes, that means feathering the clutch, but mine has 40k miles and is still going strong, even though I've towed a few times (where you really have to slip the clutch) and taken it off road.
One thing to keep in mind is that there is not as much "play" in them as there is in some other cars. By that I mean tolerances are tight, as in most high quality autos.
For example, the Aussies with 4" lifts have tranny teething problems. You could probably lift a Ford pickup and there would be enough play to tolerate that kind of change.
On the Forester, the catch is, if anything is slightly out of whack, it will stand out. For example, the ride is quiet, so some people can hear the fuel pump! Wow!
However, I would check your throttle cable. There should be an ever-so-slight amount of slack built-in. This is so the throttle feels smooth.
I manually tightened the slack on my Miata too much, and ended up with a high idle and jerky acceleration. So I let some slack back out and it's fine. I'd check yours out of curiosity.
Plus, that jerkiness means you're getting an immediate response when you accelerate, which is much better than the hesitation my Mustang used to give me! :-)
-juice
Thank you so much, Juice! Once again, as Kate referred to earlier, your wonderfully broad knowledge of cars shines through again! I appreciate your taking the time to respond to my concerns. Being acknowledged by you really makes me feel "part of the family" now!
--'rocco
I was trying to find a photo showing the throttle mechanism but can't. The Miata had a wire that looked like the same kind used in mountain bikes for brakes and gear shifts. It was a matter of loosening one bolt to adjust it.
-juice
This is what I did for my cargo area, which is almost always in "seats-down" mode (and I had leather installed after-market so I have the same concerns as you). I went to home depot (or your nearest equivilant) and bought 5' of a 6' wide indoor/outdoor grey carpeting (it almost matches, good enough for me). I then bought a roll of brown packing paper, enough to tape together a couple long pieces to create (cut out) a pattern of the back cargo area from back door to the back of the front seats. I then cut the carpet to match, leaving it about 5" longer than needed. This I just drap over those immense backseat headrests, so they are protected from those pesky toenails. I then used a bit of double-sided carpet tape to secure the carpet to the cargo area. I also cut a line in the carpet where the back seats separate, so I can still put up one side of the back seat or the other, and still leave the carpet in place. It's not totally waterproof (we go to the beach also), but it's cheap (about $13.00) and can be easily vacuumed and replaced when necessary, and keeps the regular cargo carpeting in mint condition.
Hatchbag also makes a net that stretches between the back of the front seats and the cargo area. I have one that we use in the Volvo wagon. However, I don't think the installation that Hatchbag employs will work in the Forester, because of the way they made the windows. You'd have to check with Hatchbag (www.hatchbag.com). I've also tried several of the metal pet barriers, all are noisy and most don't fit well in any vehicle. I like the hatchbag pet net the best. However, I now have just trained the dogs to stay out of the front seat, and don't use a barrier in the Stubby.
I also have a Thule cargo box, which I have used on our Volvo wagon (with Thule bars). In theory, I should be able to secure the box directly to the Forester's factory roof racks. I will try this for a trip to MS in Sept and let you know my results. The problem with most boxes is that you will only get about 100 lbs of load (based on the rating of the Forester roof racks and the weight of the box itself). I load the thing as full as it will go with the Thule racks on the Volvo wagon, and it's bliss (this is the old Weekender box, now known as the Excursion, about 13 cu feet of storage, about $240). I settled on the box instead of just a basket, so there's no problem with rain, sleet, snow (for trips to Ohio) and I can carry all sorts of dog trial gear which isn't nice neat square suitcases. You're needs/results may vary.
Sorry this was so long. The first month and a half of Stubby ownership has been a thin slice of heaven. Made a couple short trips to Orlando for a WNBA half-time show and a flyball tourney. Not getting good gas mileage, but the A/C works great! Still dislike the cupholders, but I'm coping.
good luck with the Stubby!
aj
http://bitman.com/SoobMods/
From Griots Garage:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_2500&L2=L2_2530&SKU=77830
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Two suggested alternatives to Amanda's suggestions.
You can use stuck together pages from the newspaper to achieved the same result as brown paper cut out.
Also ratehr than using double sided tape, try using velcro stuck to the back of the carpet. It is less awful when the glue gets dog fur stuck in it.
Personally, I've always found an old blanket does a perfectly reasonable job
Cheers
Graham
I never got to explain the final disposition of the Aquatreds. Seems that although Gdyr. replaced one tire (the 1st trip back) there was a second bad tire that they missed. Anyway, that got replaced and everything works! Actually, with the recent heavy rain in the area I've had a chance to "play" with the new rubber in some significant water. They work! If the Aquatreds live up to the snow performance rating then this is a really good tire for the Forester.
- hutch
-mike
PS: Teaches you not to golf, should have been using the WRX as the cart
I used newspaper the first time (to make a pattern) for the Volvo. It was actually a pain to tape together enough pages, plus the ink factor was annoying. That's why I thought the brown wrapping paper was brilliant (and cheap).
Anyway, I also used double sided tape intended to secure throw rugs to the floor, not the heavily glued tape I think you're thinking of. This is lightweight stuff, with just enough stickiness to keep the carpet from sliding around. No mess, no fuss.
The blanket idea would work for some dogs, but not mine
cheers!
aj
Hutch: we too have a lot in common. My slice is so bad I'm afraid I'll get poison ivy when I golf from walking through the woods all day! ;-)
Glad to hear they sorted out the AT3s.
-juice
He barks, I swear it!
-juice
Maybe next time you'll take a mulligan? ;-)
Ed
Juice .. I don't slice. When I hit it poorly it's generally a duck hook. BTW .. i'm an 8 handicap.
- hutch
Glad to hear you're okay! Did you find the ball after all that? ;-)
Ken
Make some jumps, get a tunnel and you can start training Hadji for agility, too! Flyball is all about tennis balls. Sounds like you have an ideal canine athlete.
Hey Hutch, at least it wasn't a gator... glad to hear you survived
aj
When my wife's service agreement expired on her Forester, she asked if I thought going to the Jiffy Lube for her next oil change was ok, since she didn't want to spend a lot of time waiting at the dealer. I said sure; I'd done it for years with a previous car without much trouble.
Long story short, they drained the differential instead of the crankcase. Her transmission burned out on the highway leaving her stranded for two hours until I and a tow truck could arrive.
After Jiffy Lube accepted blame (much quicker than I thought they would) they agreed to pay for the new transmission ($4600), the oil change, and a rental car (Toyota Corolla) but balked at the idea of paying for lost wages, cell phone calls, etc.
Does this seem fair? I don't have a holy war planned (yet) but they sure don't seem to be going all out to make things right.
Am I just being greedy? I need advice!! Thanks!
bit
Using those quick lube places can be risky, as you've found out. Changing your own oil on Subarus are super-easy, but if you prefer to outsource, I'd suggest using a dealer or reputable shop. Usually, the prices aren't that different -- it just takes a little longer.
Ken
Jiffy Lube - sounds fair to me. I would be happy with that, draining the wrong fluid NWS.
Hey, you know how everyone that has a minivan has at least 2 kids? Well, I'm beginning to be convinced that everyone that owns a Forester has 2 dogs.
Greg
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Yet another Jiffy Lube debacle. I've heard that a few times. Scary.
Yes, plenty of dog owners among the Soob faithful.
-juice
gooddesign - I would take the deal but not "sign off" on anything to keep your options open.
We don't have any dogs, but we have 6 cats, 2 of which are bigger than Juice's dog!
2 of my cats will play fetch, 3 (there's some overlap here) will leap 4-5' into the air to snag a tossed milk ring, 1 thinks he is a goalie and wants to stop things I slide across the floor (can't score through the 5 hole, too many legs!), 1 will catch cotton balls bounced high off of a wall, and 1 flips me a paw everything I suggest anything!
Regards,
Frank
They claim that the "pit" person drained differential by mistake and then drained oil and told the "top" guy to fill both oil and differential.
They offered that the "top" guy forgot about the latter. This makes sense to me, I suppose.
And we have no intention of waiving any rights or signing off on anything. We just want the soobie back and to not have any problems in the future... I'll post a follow-up soon, although the tranny is on back order.
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
My brother worked at a Jiffy Lube when he first started out as a mechanic...even he wouldn't use one, and he preachs that too.
I have been using Valvoline Instant Oil Change for a long time, both for my old 94 Nissan Sentra and my 98 Forester, and I have not had any problems with them. No matter which location I go to the techs all know exactly how to change a Sube's oil correctly. Only thing is some locations require you to bring in an OE filter. I think some sub drivers complained about oil leaks with Valvoline filters. I think the crush washer has something to do with it as the valvoline filters don't come with one.
so if you have a VIOC around your area, you might want to check them out.
Just my $0.02
mike
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Regards and good luck,
Frank
A few months ago, you gave me the name and number of the place where you get filters, etc. I ordered some filters, crush washers, etc. and cannot find the name of the lady or the phone number. If you could get that to me I'd appreciate it and I promise I'll put it in a safe place this time!! Thanks!
Tom
Try subaruparts.com or www.fullysecurednow.com/1stsubaruparts.
-juice
I also had a problem with little orange dots appearing on my new Forester. What I eventually realized was that these were due to tree sap falling off the maple trees on my block. Check to see if it could be sap falling off of trees where you park. None of the tree sap/bug/tar removers I tried did anything to get rid of the stuff. Finally, I used a clay bar (Mother's). It took a few hours, but took off all the dots. After waxing the car (Prestone Bullet Wax), regular weekly cleanings (soap and water) have gotten rid of all the newly fallen sap with no problems whatsoever. Good Luck.
-juice
http://www.libertysubaru.com/
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Thands In Advance.
Mike
-juice
I'm going to give her a ring. I still need a bumper and taillight.
-juice
The guy is in denial about declaring bankruptcy, and until a new owner or fresh financing comes along, Darlene is stuck reading novels instead of ordering parts.
So I'll need to look elsewhere.
-juice
To you, it's the one and only.
-juice
Juice and Bit-- Both those online parts suppliers which you mentioned, Juice, are located here in Washington state (Pierce county) and are on-line divisions of local dealership parts departments. Subaruparts.com = Tacoma Subaru (Titus group) and 1stsubaruparts.com = Puyallup Subaru. Thus, I have to pay our hefty (8.5-8.8%) sales tax on top of the shipping charges. My question is: does anybody know of any other dealers outside of Washington state that have online parts divisions? I'm sure there are many in the country but I have no idea where to start. I think Qsubaruparts is in TN somewhere but did they go out of business or did they just stop doing online business?? Bit, does that site you mentioned have an online catalog??
Michael-- Over on Club Vmag, someone started a thread the other day on Synlube filters. Most think that it is in fact "snake-oil" for who would want to keep a filter on for 100k miles? I think you guys (Subarucrew) discussed this on the maintenance thread somewhere, at sometime but I can't find the discussion right now. http://www.synlube.com/prod06.htm
--'rocco
If they are in your state, what about going there to pick the parts up to save the shipping cost? That may offset the sales tax.
-juice
--'rocco
-juice
Ed
--
Okay, there's clearly a demand for a Subaru parts but there doesn't seem to be a competent source. Someone should just start a mail/internet based business and hire Darlene.
Ken
215/55R17 is closest to the original diameter (+.6%). 225/50R17 would probably be good as well (-1.1%).
You could pick slightly different sizes depending upon what you were trying to accomplish. The 215/55s would gain a tiny bit of clearance and give you more relaxed gearing. The 225/50s would sacrifice a tiny bit of clearance for more aggressive gearing and mega-sharp handling, given the short sidewalls.
If you went to a 17" rim I would stay on pavement.
-juice