Possible that it needs a rear door adjustment? I had a friend with a trooper that was going nutz with his rear door making a noise, eventually took it to the dealer and they made an adjustment on the hinge, no more rattle/noise.
Actually, I would say the opposite for the ATs. A rear sway bar benefits you by helping to redistribute loading from the inside tire to the outside tire. This action would benefit you if you had more power going to that axle. Since the ATs are mostly front wheel drive, I'd say that a fatter sway bar would do less compared to a MT model.
Dragos- Whine = road noise from the tires maybe? Though you'd think the mechanic could diagnose that.
Rear hatch rattle: almost for sure that a simple adjustment of the latch (or hinge) will fix it.
Intermittent wiper relays are noisier in some cars than others.
Factory speakers in many cars are pieces of junk. They're nothing more than about five bucks worth of cardboard. Subaru's upgraded speakers are an improvement but you're still better off upgrading them yourself with aftermarket ones.
Ed: you don't want a sway bar TOO much bigger in the rear, because it can upset the balance. You could end up with some serious trailing throttle oversteer, something Consumer Reports noticed a bit even on the base auto Outback.
Mine, with a front tower brace and the 18mm rear sway, is just about neutral, generally where you want it to be. I imagine a 20mm rear with no brace in the front is going to be tail-happy in the snow. Fun as that may sound, you do not want a Porsche 911-style tail-wag-the-dog dynamic.
Daniel: sounds like gear whine. Does the noise happen when you rev the engine in neutral?
I think the rear hatch latch (say that quick 5 times) can be adjusted, so that would be my guess.
It's definitely not tire noise. When I press and release the accelerator (pump it) fast, the noise changes pitch. When I release the accelerator, the noise almost dissapears. So it's definitely drivetrain related. Only when moving, and only in D4.
The hatch noise seems indeed to be coming from the latch.
About the speakers I am actually surprised the sound is as good as it is (I have a pretty expensive home theater at home so I have an idea about good sound) . The head unit must be really good quality.
With the 18mm in rear it does feel better balanced. I have toyed with the idea of adding a front tower brace (specifically the kind that attaches with 3 bolts around the tower, not just with the 2 inner bolts) but I have to watch my wallet of late.
Why do I get the feeling sometimes that I've been cheated of some performance benefits by choosing an automatic?
Ed
PS: Ken - One things I didn't watch my wallet with was speakers. I ordered the Polk front/rears from Crutchfield - they're running a sale through 8/23, plus I think I fried one of the fronts. No time like the present to make the swap. Will keep the OEM tweeters in the upper doors, though.
Juice or anyone else.... has anyone done their own spark plug change, auto transmission change or the rear differential change (does my forester even have this?)? We have a 2001 auto trans L model. Any help is appreciated!
Daniel -- I have a similar sound from my MT Forester, but it only happens at speeds over 80mph. I'm having it checked out next week at my 60K service.
Ed -- If you go to i-club, there's almost always some guy trying to swap out his 4EAT for a 5MT.
Cool, those speakers should make a noticeable difference. I got my Polks on sale at Crutchfield too -- it was a buy one get another at 1/2 price deal. Got my friend to go in on it with me.
...here we go with the AT v. MT analysis again. For me, again the AT makes much more sense given the type of I driving I have to do, but should that pre-empt me from enjoying a spirited drive on, say, an early weekend morning? I don't think so. Would SoA change their slogan to "The beauty of All- (but Mostly Front- for you lazy slushboxers) Wheel Drive"? I doubt it. (edit: Ken - I did see Shields' website - I got my 18mm bar from him following his recommendation.)
That's why I'm so intrigued by the thought of a manumatic in the Subaru lineup - and why I'd love to test drive an AT equipped WRX. I like the idea of the VTD setup in that car and I hope it (with the manumatic) works its way into more of the North American Subaru lineup in the near future.
I personally believe Subaru will offer a manumatic in the future as a competitive equalizer. Too many companies are offering it on their sport-oriented models.
I'd personally think about a 5-speed Manumatic mated to a VTD tranny.
Ed: you give up some performance, but not much. Especially with the extra torque in the Phase II. The 0-60 times published in the Washington Post and Motorweek (both 9.1s) are about as quick as for any manuals, even quicker than some.
Tom: spark plugs are coming soon. I've heard you need to remove part of the intake tubing and the windshield washer reservoir for access, but neither is hard to do. I will share photos when I do get to it.
I don't have an auto, so no ATF flush here. Still, I'd go to a shop that has machines to force the old fluid out and really flush the whole system. I've seen quotes around $80.
Apparently the rear diffy is sealed pretty darn well. I've changed the fluid on my Miata (piece of cake, two bolts and a bottle of Mobil 1 Gear Oil plus a pump), but my Forester is still too new to need it. The Miata has 17mm bolts but the Forester has what looks like a 1/2" square hole, hinting that it's a job for a mechanic.
So I'll not lose too much sleep about performance but feel a bit better about my choice when I go out and sit in the parking lot known as US 1 in about a half hour. I'm still planning on taking it on the Pine Barrens tour in September.
I agree with you, Ken - the manumatic should appear on the WRX and Legacy GT first, then further into the product line (ST-X/Brat, OB, then maybe Forester).
juice, did I miss which plugs you were using? NGK?
Hey folks. After weeks of serious research and contemplation, I'm about ready to order a 2002 Forester Sport (Canadian model) (looks amazing in black I say).
It was a choice between the Forester, CRV and Highlander. Thanks to all of you here for the information you have provided.
Main question is... Can't seem to find much info regarding 2002 Canadian invoice (or discounted) pricing. CarCostCanada.com doesn't have the 2002 info yet, and haven't noticed any posts from Canucks mentioning prices paid for 2002s. Anybody got any recommendations or stories to tell?
You can get this noise from your alternator that comes through on your stereo. Can you hear it when you rev the engine while idling? I get a similar noise from my winter tires (the noise disappears when I let off the gas)
My 2001 Forester sometimes made a popping noise from the rear hatch area, particularly when driving in situations that would tend to put a "twist" on the vehicle body. I think somebody complained about this recently. Several people said it probably means the car is in need of a latch adjustment on the hatch.
The latch and hinge aren't adjustable. They aren't "slotted" like most door hinges are. I removed trim and looked at mine in an attempt to fix my popping noise. I asked mydealer about this problem and they said it is common and there is no 100% fix that has been found. The said what they do that tends to help a lot is the following:
Raise the hatch, lossen the 4 hinge bolts and the top, and retighten them. This supposedly takes out any stress (misalignment) of the hatch assembly.
Then they check the condition of the plastic slide mechanisms mounted on the body that look like they center the hatch in place. Make sure these are clean, move easily without binding, and are lubricated.
I did all that and it may have helped a little. However, I then started experimenting and found a fix that killed the noise completely, at least for the last 4 months or so:
Get some adhesive-backed felt. Hardware stores (e.g., Lowe's) carry this in small sheets designed to be cut and put onto things that sit on furniture, or to use as drawer liners, etc. Look in the same place in the store where you find the round dots of adhesive cork, cabinet door bumpers, and felt packaged on cards, sold for similar purposes. Line the contact area of the "slide spacer" with this fabric. Do the same with the bottoms of the rubber bump stops. Because this fabric has the potential of holding water, I also put some self-adhesive clear plastic on the body points where these items contact. Actually, if you buy a package of assorted-size felt dots, you should probably find that one size fits the rubber bump stops perfectly. (Brown matches better than green, of course). You could use 2 of the bigger dots to cover most of the slider.
It worked for me. If/when it wears out, it's next to free to replace. If it doesn't work, it's removeable.
thcdom: Congratulations on your decision. Please keep us posted on finding the invoicing information, and also how you find the buying experience.
The Forester Sport is currently my second choice after the 2002 RS sedan. The Forester in that specific trim is absolutely beautiful, this is the first time I've seriously considered the Forester over the Impreza. For those of you who haven't seen on in person, you should really check this out at the dealer's because the photos don't do it justice.
My only wish is that it was a couple thousand dollars cheaper and had side air-bags... oh well!
Pearlbluesoul, I too wish it was a bit less expensive (price being the main factor that makes the CRV at all attractive). The Subaru dealership I visited had a black Sport in the showroom with aftermarket tint added. Super nice looking car. (black monotone with spoiler, tint, moonroof, black Sport upholstery, Sport grille and Sport design mesh alloy wheels for those who haven't seen it).
p0926, seems that the only way to get the side impact airbags is with the leather, rear wind deflector, etc. of the S Limited.
Juice, the only invoice pricing service I've seen so far is CarCostCanada, and they won't have 2002 info for a while, they say. I thought CAA/AAA did it, but seems not. Just remembered the "APA Automobile Protection Agency." Will see if they provide the service today. Another consideration, of course, is that prices on the S model didn't change from 2001 to 2002, so perhaps I should spend a few bucks to find out a 2001 S invoice price and try to work from there. The Sport model is new to 2002.
I have a 2000 Forester (purchased Feb '00) and have had to take it in 4 times (Aug '00, Feb '01, May '01 and Aug '01) in the last year because the check engine light keeps coming on. Each time they change the oxygen sensor and everything is fine for a few months, then it comes on again. Has anyone else had this type of problem? I love my Forester, and brag about it to anyone who will listen, but I am getting really tired of the inconvenience of having to keep taking the car in.
I have recently purchased a '98 Forester, but since i've bought it, the outside temperature gauge has read -E. Any ideas on how to reset or fix this problem. Any info will be greatly appreciated!
I'm guessing that's an error code. E=error? So I'd have the dealership look at that.
Jann: that does sound mighty inconvenient. Looks like the dealer is replacing a bad O2 sensor with another bad O2 sensor. What did they say the 2nd time? 3rd time? You think they would have found the pattern.
By now I'd be buying an aftermarket Bosch O2 sensor (about $20) and asking them to reimburse me!
Nice grille. I don't like all the chrome on the US ones. Looks like you get a monotone paint scheme on a lower end model (i.e. not S Premium). The wheels look sporty, too, with no gold on them, and the cross bars are different, plus they have spoilers.
dnickel - I know what you mean, I have a CB in my 98 Civic CX, and when I use the 12 V outlet to power it it makes that nois, very similar to the one in the Subaru. It's not that, since I can hear it even with all electronics turned off. The noise also does not come in neutral, not even in the 3rd gear at the same RPMs (close to 3000). Only in the 4th, 65-70 mph and above.
mr_obvious - thank you for the very comprehensive post. I might have to do that. I had a similar noise in my Civic hatchback. The Civic has a better design, because the ruber stops can be screwed and unscrewed. The mechanic at the dealership adusted them (it's close to 2 years now), and the noise never came back. I'll check first if the ruber stops from the Civic fit, and if so I'll buy a pair of them
jannc, I hope I'm just stating the obvious, but you've been screwing your gas cap on nice and tight whenever you fill up, right? Everything I've read on these boards says that's the number one cause behind the CEL coming on...I've always made sure mine clicks a good 8-10 times whenever we fill up.
If that's not the reason, good luck, I have no idea what else might be causing your recurring problem...
Nice pictures, thanks I was actually looking for better shots of the sport than those on the site. I've been torn between the black and silver. Both look nice. I prefer the look of the black a little but like the idea of less maintenance with the silver and it too looks amazing I say.
Update: spoke to the APA at 416-204-1444. They know their stuff. Had 2002 pricing ready, and are saving me around $800 off the quote I'd already received (2002 sport for around 38,400 cdn with 15% taxes - $700 CDN above invoice). Also hooked me up with discounts on accessories and other membership benefits like honest garage list etc. (for $55 CDN).
Time to go get a Forester. Yippeee. been without a car since the irritating lease on the Cherokee expired. Will never lease again (or deal with chrysler for that matter).
Yes, I did check the gas cap and also make it a habit to turn it nice and tight.
That was the first thing I thought of the first time the light came on as the car seemed to be running fine. The OS was replaced and I thought "OK, taken care of". However, the car didn't seem to run right after that(hesitated when stepping on the gas and didn't have the pep it used to - then right before I took it in the second time it started running really rough when idling and almost stalled numerous times). They had it for 5 days that time as they had to order some parts and couldn't seem to get the idle right, etc, etc. I still thought the car was hesitating but the service guy couldn't 'recreate' the problem and basically made it seem like I was imagining things. I even made my husband talk to the service rep thinking maybe he would listen to him.
A couple months later I received notice that there was a recall (I believe on the sensor) and took it in for the third time. They kept telling me that it was really rare for a Subaru to have so many problems (which I believe). It has been running great since, which is why I was so surpised when the light came on again, even though the car seems to be running fine. What's the chances that the same person would continue to get a bad sensor each time? Yikes, guess I better not run off to Vegas to go gambling any time soon!
I just dropped it off at the shop this morning and haven't heard what they found yet. I also don't understand why the service history is showing 'replace fuel filter' when they have actually been replacing the OS. But I am also not mechanically inclined and can only assume they are related. Thanks for all your input - I am really looking forward to getting this resolved so I can get back to enjoying the car!
I don't think the difference is negligable. At 90/10, there will be significantly more front wheel slippage compared to 80/20, since there will be more torque going to the front wheels; this allows those wheels to break traction more easily. An 80/20 split would result in more neutral handling and less wheel slippage.
With a 48/52 split with my ML though, there is no perceptible wheel slippage even on slippery surfaces. If there is any wheel slippage, you'll know from the ESP hazard light blinking (similar to the VDC's).
Drew Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Sweet, Dom. Please let us know which you end up with. I like both, but agree the Silver will mask dirt better.
If you get black, tint those windows and you'll have a pretty sinister looking Subie.
Jann: they are definitely not the same. I'd ask the service rep to correct that mistake. Your service records are important and should be accurate. Hope they get it right this time, if not I'd try a more competent dealership.
I really like the grill but not the spoiler or the wheels (too busy and a nightmare to clean I'll bet). The cross bars in the picture are Canadian standard - same as on my 2001 S. I much prefer the silver for basic looks, keeping cool in summer and for the maintenance factor.
Daniel-- Just a hunch because I have it too... maybe the roof rack crossbar position? I've moved the front crossbar back a few inches and now the whine comes at a different speed than before I moved it so now I'll have to experiment some with the positions to see if can be eliminated entirely. The sound doesn't really bother me that much but I just wanted to play around with those crossbars anyway. Didn't you folks discuss the crossbar positions as it relates to wind noise sometime back? Now this may very well not be the sound you're hearing because you mentioned that the pitch apparently changes with engine rpm rather than speed but just thought I'd mention it.
Just a guess... but check to see if the cross bars are mounted in the correct direction. The have a front and back as marked with a sticker applied to them.
Sorry to drag this back up but am still looking for an answer.
Is the best source the factory repair manual? If so I'll have to go to my "friendly" Soob dealer. I was hoping this board would have an answer and source.
I have the factory manuals and have not found the info in there. They have theory of operation for a lot of things but not for the AT transfer clutch, at least not that I have found.
Love my weathershields (visors)! Thanks again! Mike was great to deal with and says he should have his web page up shortly.
They certainly tell how to take things apart, but for diagnosing they rely on reading some pressures and testing things with the "Select Monitor" tool, via the control computer.
They start the diagnostic tree with "customer complaint"... not a list, just those words. No matter what the complaint the tree is the same. They start with basic tests and move on from there, testing the trans, transfer clutch, duty cycle solenoid, etc.
us what the torque splits are, you think the average car dealer is gonna give you a better answer? (I'm almost falling out of my chair laughing at that one!)
All righty then. Ordered my Sube tonight. 2002 Forester Sport... Black. Getting the "APA Price" (discounted Freight, PDI and Admin Fees and $700 CDN above invoice). Also getting a discount on a few options (floormats, fender flares, tweeters, wind deflectors front and roof. Still considering subwoofer, diff. protector and brushguard) Going to install aftermarket speaker upgrades, trailer hitch, alarm, and graphite tint.
Sadly to say, we were involved in an accident in our 6-month old 2001 Forester S+ just last week. The guilty party (a late-model 4Runner) ran a red light going over 50 mph and smashed into the passenger-side, near the engine. Damage was pretty extensive to the right and left front (I'm waiting to hear from my insurance company, but I'm pretty certain it will be a total). We did a 180 and the rear of the car was badly damaged as well, blowing out both the back and right rear windows. Both frontal airbags deployed, although the side-impact airbag did not (apparently due to design).
As the driver, I suffered a minor airbag burn on my arm and a rib contusion; my wife, the only passenger, suffered a concussion from hitting the window and now has some neck pain. However, considering the severity of the crash, it is pretty amazing how we both walked away from it, and a testament to Soobie engineering. I am already talking with my salesman about a new model. Not exactly the way I expected to get my next car! But for those of you considering the Forester (or any Soob) for the safety aspects, I can definitely give my endorsement!
(I seem to be having problems with the pictures, but if you put www.geocities.com/norm949/f1.jpg in your browser location, it seems to work. f2 and f3 are other views)
Daniel - you mentioned that you might try to fit adjustable rubber bumpers to your Forester hatch. I wouldn't have high hopes on this working. I, too, initially thought that the solution to the problem was just to find a way to make the hatch close tighter. So, as an experiment, I taped a coin (padded for protection) to the body where the stops hit. While that made it a lot harder to close the hatch, it made ZERO difference in the noise. I still don't understand why that didn't work, but the felt pads did work. The pads aren't thick enough to make a perceptible difference in how hard the hatch closes.
I also tried lubricating the contact points liberally with various oils, greases, and silicone. Sometimes I thought that helped, sometimes not. One problem is that the rubber absorbs these substances over time.
Comments
-mike
Actually, I would say the opposite for the ATs. A rear sway bar benefits you by helping to redistribute loading from the inside tire to the outside tire. This action would benefit you if you had more power going to that axle. Since the ATs are mostly front wheel drive, I'd say that a fatter sway bar would do less compared to a MT model.
In fact, many tuners recommend the same:
http://www.spdusa.com/newpage4.htm
Ken
Rear hatch rattle: almost for sure that a simple adjustment of the latch (or hinge) will fix it.
Intermittent wiper relays are noisier in some cars than others.
Factory speakers in many cars are pieces of junk. They're nothing more than about five bucks worth of cardboard. Subaru's upgraded speakers are an improvement but you're still better off upgrading them yourself with aftermarket ones.
-Frank P.
Mine, with a front tower brace and the 18mm rear sway, is just about neutral, generally where you want it to be. I imagine a 20mm rear with no brace in the front is going to be tail-happy in the snow. Fun as that may sound, you do not want a Porsche 911-style tail-wag-the-dog dynamic.
Daniel: sounds like gear whine. Does the noise happen when you rev the engine in neutral?
I think the rear hatch latch (say that quick 5 times) can be adjusted, so that would be my guess.
-juice
The hatch noise seems indeed to be coming from the latch.
About the speakers I am actually surprised the sound is as good as it is (I have a pretty expensive home theater at home so I have an idea about good sound) . The head unit must be really good quality.
Daniel
With the 18mm in rear it does feel better balanced. I have toyed with the idea of adding a front tower brace (specifically the kind that attaches with 3 bolts around the tower, not just with the 2 inner bolts) but I have to watch my wallet of late.
Why do I get the feeling sometimes that I've been cheated of some performance benefits by choosing an automatic?
Ed
PS: Ken - One things I didn't watch my wallet with was speakers. I ordered the Polk front/rears from Crutchfield - they're running a sale through 8/23, plus I think I fried one of the fronts. No time like the present to make the swap. Will keep the OEM tweeters in the upper doors, though.
Tom
Ed -- If you go to i-club, there's almost always some guy trying to swap out his 4EAT for a 5MT.
Cool, those speakers should make a noticeable difference. I got my Polks on sale at Crutchfield too -- it was a buy one get another at 1/2 price deal. Got my friend to go in on it with me.
Ken
That's why I'm so intrigued by the thought of a manumatic in the Subaru lineup - and why I'd love to test drive an AT equipped WRX. I like the idea of the VTD setup in that car and I hope it (with the manumatic) works its way into more of the North American Subaru lineup in the near future.
Enough shiftless talk.
Ed
I personally believe Subaru will offer a manumatic in the future as a competitive equalizer. Too many companies are offering it on their sport-oriented models.
I'd personally think about a 5-speed Manumatic mated to a VTD tranny.
Ken
Tom: spark plugs are coming soon. I've heard you need to remove part of the intake tubing and the windshield washer reservoir for access, but neither is hard to do. I will share photos when I do get to it.
I don't have an auto, so no ATF flush here. Still, I'd go to a shop that has machines to force the old fluid out and really flush the whole system. I've seen quotes around $80.
Apparently the rear diffy is sealed pretty darn well. I've changed the fluid on my Miata (piece of cake, two bolts and a bottle of Mobil 1 Gear Oil plus a pump), but my Forester is still too new to need it. The Miata has 17mm bolts but the Forester has what looks like a 1/2" square hole, hinting that it's a job for a mechanic.
-juice
I agree with you, Ken - the manumatic should appear on the WRX and Legacy GT first, then further into the product line (ST-X/Brat, OB, then maybe Forester).
juice, did I miss which plugs you were using? NGK?
Ed
I've used Bosch Platinum for ages and they've never let me down (never had a fouled plug), so I see no reason not to stick with them.
-juice
It was a choice between the Forester, CRV and Highlander. Thanks to all of you here for the information you have provided.
Main question is... Can't seem to find much info regarding 2002 Canadian invoice (or discounted) pricing. CarCostCanada.com doesn't have the 2002 info yet, and haven't noticed any posts from Canucks mentioning prices paid for 2002s. Anybody got any recommendations or stories to tell?
Thanks and all the best,
Dom
I get a similar noise from my winter tires (the noise disappears when I let off the gas)
The latch and hinge aren't adjustable. They aren't "slotted" like most door hinges are. I removed trim and looked at mine in an attempt to fix my popping noise. I asked mydealer about this problem and they said it is common and there is no 100% fix that has been found. The said what they do that tends to help a lot is the following:
Raise the hatch, lossen the 4 hinge bolts and the top, and retighten them. This supposedly takes out any stress (misalignment) of the hatch assembly.
Then they check the condition of the plastic slide mechanisms mounted on the body that look like they center the hatch in place. Make sure these are clean, move easily without binding, and are lubricated.
I did all that and it may have helped a little. However, I then started experimenting and found a fix that killed the noise completely, at least for the last 4 months or so:
Get some adhesive-backed felt. Hardware stores (e.g., Lowe's) carry this in small sheets designed to be cut and put onto things that sit on furniture, or to use as drawer liners, etc. Look in the same place in the store where you find the round dots of adhesive cork, cabinet door bumpers, and felt packaged on cards, sold for similar purposes. Line the contact area of the "slide spacer" with this fabric. Do the same with the bottoms of the rubber bump stops. Because this fabric has the potential of holding water, I also put some self-adhesive clear plastic on the body points where these items contact. Actually, if you buy a package of assorted-size felt dots, you should probably find that one size fits the rubber bump stops perfectly. (Brown matches better than green, of course). You could use 2 of the bigger dots to cover most of the slider.
It worked for me. If/when it wears out, it's next to free to replace. If it doesn't work, it's removeable.
The Forester Sport is currently my second choice after the 2002 RS sedan. The Forester in that specific trim is absolutely beautiful, this is the first time I've seriously considered the Forester over the Impreza. For those of you who haven't seen on in person, you should really check this out at the dealer's because the photos don't do it justice.
My only wish is that it was a couple thousand dollars cheaper and had side air-bags... oh well!
Isn't there an organization you can join, which them provides the prices?
Too bad there is no search feature on these boards. Anyone recall?
-juice
www.subaru.ca
p0926, seems that the only way to get the side impact airbags is with the leather, rear wind deflector, etc. of the S Limited.
Juice, the only invoice pricing service I've seen so far is CarCostCanada, and they won't have 2002 info for a while, they say. I thought CAA/AAA did it, but seems not. Just remembered the "APA Automobile Protection Agency." Will see if they provide the service today. Another consideration, of course, is that prices on the S model didn't change from 2001 to 2002, so perhaps I should spend a few bucks to find out a 2001 S invoice price and try to work from there. The Sport model is new to 2002.
Jann: that does sound mighty inconvenient. Looks like the dealer is replacing a bad O2 sensor with another bad O2 sensor. What did they say the 2nd time? 3rd time? You think they would have found the pattern.
By now I'd be buying an aftermarket Bosch O2 sensor (about $20) and asking them to reimburse me!
-juice
-mike
Other pics (I hope these links work):
Black sport, front & side view
Silver sport, profile
Silver Sport, spoiler
Silver Sport
I like 'em.
-juice
mr_obvious - thank you for the very comprehensive post. I might have to do that. I had a similar noise in my Civic hatchback. The Civic has a better design, because the ruber stops can be screwed and unscrewed. The mechanic at the dealership adusted them (it's close to 2 years now), and the noise never came back. I'll check first if the ruber stops from the Civic fit, and if so I'll buy a pair of them
Thanks guys!
Daniel
If that's not the reason, good luck, I have no idea what else might be causing your recurring problem...
Steve
Update: spoke to the APA at 416-204-1444. They know their stuff. Had 2002 pricing ready, and are saving me around $800 off the quote I'd already received (2002 sport for around 38,400 cdn with 15% taxes - $700 CDN above invoice). Also hooked me up with discounts on accessories and other membership benefits like honest garage list etc. (for $55 CDN).
Time to go get a Forester. Yippeee. been without a car since the irritating lease on the Cherokee expired. Will never lease again (or deal with chrysler for that matter).
Bob
That was the first thing I thought of the first time the light came on as the car seemed to be running fine. The OS was replaced and I thought "OK, taken care of". However, the car didn't seem to run right after that(hesitated when stepping on the gas and didn't have the pep it used to - then right before I took it in the second time it started running really rough when idling and almost stalled numerous times). They had it for 5 days that time as they had to order some parts and couldn't seem to get the idle right, etc, etc. I still thought the car was hesitating but the service guy couldn't 'recreate' the problem and basically made it seem like I was imagining things. I even made my husband talk to the service rep thinking maybe he would listen to him.
A couple months later I received notice that there was a recall (I believe on the sensor) and took it in for the third time. They kept telling me that it was really rare for a Subaru to have so many problems (which I believe). It has been running great since, which is why I was so surpised when the light came on again, even though the car seems to be running fine. What's the chances that the same person would continue to get a bad sensor each time? Yikes, guess I better not run off to Vegas to go gambling any time soon!
I just dropped it off at the shop this morning and haven't heard what they found yet. I also don't understand why the service history is showing 'replace fuel filter' when they have actually been replacing the OS. But I am also not mechanically inclined and can only assume they are related. Thanks for all your input - I am really looking forward to getting this resolved so I can get back to enjoying the car!
bit
With a 48/52 split with my ML though, there is no perceptible wheel slippage even on slippery surfaces. If there is any wheel slippage, you'll know from the ESP hazard light blinking (similar to the VDC's).
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
If you get black, tint those windows and you'll have a pretty sinister looking Subie.
Jann: they are definitely not the same. I'd ask the service rep to correct that mistake. Your service records are important and should be accurate. Hope they get it right this time, if not I'd try a more competent dealership.
-juice
Ross
--'rocco
bit
Is the best source the factory repair manual? If so I'll have to go to my "friendly" Soob dealer. I was hoping this board would have an answer and source.
Help is appreciated.
Love my weathershields (visors)! Thanks again! Mike was great to deal with and says he should have his web page up shortly.
Regards,
Frank
Len
I too am well pleased with the visors and dealing with Mike was a joy..
Be well!
That's interesting. I wonder if there is a procedure for Subaru technicians to test if the AWD system is working properly?
Ken
-juice
They start the diagnostic tree with "customer complaint"... not a list, just those words. No matter what the complaint the tree is the same. They start with basic tests and move on from there, testing the trans, transfer clutch, duty cycle solenoid, etc.
Regards,
Frank
Regards,
Frank
-mike
Excited? You bet!
Thanks again all,
Regards,
Dom
Sadly to say, we were involved in an accident in our 6-month old 2001 Forester S+ just last week. The guilty party (a late-model 4Runner) ran a red light going over 50 mph and smashed into the passenger-side, near the engine. Damage was pretty extensive to the right and left front (I'm waiting to hear from my insurance company, but I'm pretty certain it will be a total). We did a 180 and the rear of the car was badly damaged as well, blowing out both the back and right rear windows. Both frontal airbags deployed, although the side-impact airbag did not (apparently due to design).
As the driver, I suffered a minor airbag burn on my arm and a rib contusion; my wife, the only passenger, suffered a concussion from hitting the window and now has some neck pain. However, considering the severity of the crash, it is pretty amazing how we both walked away from it, and a testament to Soobie engineering. I am already talking with my salesman about a new model. Not exactly the way I expected to get my next car! But for those of you considering the Forester (or any Soob) for the safety aspects, I can definitely give my endorsement!
(I seem to be having problems with the pictures, but if you put www.geocities.com/norm949/f1.jpg in your browser location, it seems to work. f2 and f3 are other views)
I also tried lubricating the contact points liberally with various oils, greases, and silicone. Sometimes I thought that helped, sometimes not. One problem is that the rubber absorbs these substances over time.
bit