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i have a 1996 explorer and when i turn the heat or ac on i can only get it out of the defrost nothing wont blow out of the vents can someone please help
I have a 2012 Explorer that is blowing water vapor that smells like hot engine coolant from the defroster and dashboard vents. I've had it to the dealer twice. He ran a pressure test on the cooling system and said there's no leak. Supposedly, Ford is aware of this issue with multiple customers and is coming up with a fix in the 4th quarter (2012). Has anyone else had a similar issue and if so, where does it stand?
Had a similiar problem with 07 explorer.turns out there was a blend door actuator on the drivers side of the plenum.you have to look hard for it.it had 3 screws and 1 plug going to it.a small gear was stripped out resulting in a "clicking" sound.40 dollar part and not too hard to change.you can manually open the door in the 2007 on the right side just look for the lever.the blend door was stuck shu8t only letting cold air in.this worked.hope it helped.
I have an '05 explorer and the heat and a/c would only come out the vents so i took a saturday ( today) and put in a new door actuator in thinking that was the problem.. get it all back together and now it all comes out of every where and the a/c wont work kinda frustrated any suggestions????????? :mad: :confuse:
I have a 2003 ford explorer with 3rd row seating that the a/c and heat work in the front and the rear bottom vents but only the a/c works in the rear top vents,when I turn the heat on in the rear top vents the air stays cold and never gets hot.What could be wrong,any suggestions?
I have a 2002 explorer -- had the blend door replaced because it was making a thumping & wouldn't flip over. Now I have heat but the guy at the repair place told me I would have to "play with the dials" until it flips over.... IE.. I hear a loud THUD as the thing flips & then I have heat. I've been doing that, but now it doesn't want to flip so I am back to no heat... fans, etc. work fine... Took to the dealership they want to charge me an insane amount just to look at it & have no idea as to what it may even be... Help.
I believe the "Guy at the repair shop" was pulling your leg. There should be a more definite installation at the repair shop. Before installing the blend door actuator on my daughters 99 eddie bauer, I found that the door was more sensitive to the A/C position. I opened the actuator and set it to that position and the door cam and actuator mated easily. For 99 Eddie Bauer Explorers, you really need small hands and tools. I had the small tools and really struggled on the installation. But, I saved a heavy shop bill!!
It would really be nice to know what the NEW blend door actuator module is set for so that it could be adjusted to match with the blend door cam. On a 1999 Explorer, I played with the plenum actuator and found that it would return to the A/C position. I opened the new actuator and set it to the extreme A/C position and it matched easily with the plenum door cam. I hope this info helps. On 1999 Explorer Eddie Bauers, the actuator is mounted on the top of the plenums just behind the glove box. I hope this info helps somebody in the future!
I have a 2008 EB Ford Explorer that has two issues. First the heater/air conditioner was clicking loudly unless it was in the exact right spot, but now it clicks all the time and the heat doesn't work at all!
Also, the engine light came on and we took it in the diagnose it and it says a gas leak (??!?). This happened before and we took it to the dealership when it was under warranty and they said they couldn't find a problem. The light came back on so we took it back. I don't know what they did, but we didn't have the problem again for about a year and now the same issue is happening again. Ford says we have no warranty now (another story - they have been so disappointing and I will NEVER buy from them again).
Are these two issues possibly related and what needs to be fixed? I know nothing about cars so I am nervous to get ripped off. :S
Took the Explorer in for testing. Turns out that we have the model (Eddie Bauer, 2008) that has no gas cap and the valve (?) has gone bad so that is where the leak is located. Ford says we have to replace the whole line all the way to the gas tank. Awesome engineering, Ford, thanks for the junk you sold us. We will NEVER buy Ford again. This car has had problem after problem.
The radiator had a crack, changed it out. The valve leaked, replaced it The seal of the level control replaced.
It was determined today after the radiator was replaced, that the vacuum hose is not working on the heater valve. The hose was left disconnected and the heater is now working.
The heater valve was purchased and installed by Kaufman Tire Service. The radiator was installed by a referred mechanical service. When the heater did not heat, the mechanic checked out the heater valve and determined the trouble was with the new heater valve system.
I would like input regarding how confronting Kaufman facility that performed the work. This was a cost to me in the amount of $218.00 and it's only been 11 days from repair/replacement.
If it did not cost you any more money when the mechanic found the issue then your only course is to contact the Kaufman, talk to the manager/owner tell them what happened. Tell them that you can get a written signed notarized document on what the mechanic had to do or they can call the mechanic themselves. Tell them that you want some money refunded on the 218.00. If they do great if they do not and you paid by credit card, dispute the charges on your credit card. Not a hard thing to do, normally you have 60 days from the time that you charged to dispute a charge. Your credit card company will have instructions on how to do this. If you had to pay the mechanic more money to fix it, then you still need to contact Kaufman and you still need to dispute the charge.
Plus, please put your comments on what happened on Yelp. People do go by Yelp in getting services.
I had almost exactly the same issue come up. Not the check engine light so I doubt that I have a gas cap leak issue, but the climate control system was clicking if not in the right spot, followed by total failure. I saw your follow-up post about the gas cap valve leak. I'm confused how that would have contributed to heater system failure. That sounds like a separate issue. What was the final outcome / repair for the climate control system? Thanks in advance.
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer that clicks whenever I turn the a/c or heat on. The click comes from underneath the dashboard and I believe it's a climate control actuator problem. I was wondering if that is indeed the case and how much it would cost to correct the malfunction. Additionally, just recently, the heat stopped working.
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. When I try to turn my heat on it makes a loud thumping noise and only cold air would blow. I had a "friend" look at it and he was able to reach in through the glove compartment and move the stick to heat. The heat worked perfectly fine and was hot however once the truck was turned off and then back on the stick was stuck again and I only got cold air. I took it to a mechanic who just told me that he was able to move the stick back to hot but the heater core was shot and needed to be replaced and that until it was replaced I can either have air conditioner or hot air but not both and cannot switch back and forth. He said it would cost $1,000 to fix the heater core. I obviously don't know much about cars but it seems that if the heater core was shot I would not get hot air when I turned it to hot. Does this make sense to anyone and do you think the mechanic is correct. I feel like I am being taken advantage of. Please help.
">Hello, We also have a 2002 Ford Explorer. We had the same problem and our problem was not the heater core. It was actually the blend door gear, and alot cheaper than the heater core (about 35 bucks), and its easy to check. If you take off the panels underneath the steering wheel and the center console and its a little bit of a tight squeeze but lay on your back on floor board and look up towards the radio (on your back it would be the left side) and stick your hand up there and feel for a box, you will see it, its probably white. The blend door is hooked to the box and if you pull it out (the box) (you will have to unhook wires and you can open the box, look at it and tell if the gears are striped, (which is what our problem was) go to auto zone or online, and order a new box (30 some dollars) replace it and voila! your truck will work and as a quick fix you can pull the rod hooked to gear out of the box, and put it back into the slot (hooked to the blend door) and leave the panels off your truck and each time you turn the car on, reach under there and flip the gear manually. Super easy! once you get part just replace it all and your good!
If you google 2002 ford explorer blend door gears, you will see the box im talking about, and you will be able to tell which part you can "temporarily" take apart and stick back into the truck to have a quick fix if they have to order the part.
98 Explorer , you can start it, turn air on and it is cold, drive a bit and as car heats up or if it is really hot outside, will start to blow warm (not hot) air (like freon is low). Then after a bit it will begin to blow cold again. For the last year we have not had to change the Temperature selection knob to get heat, just change the air/heat selection knob. So, Blend Door or Cycle Switch? Also, rear air fan makes awful noise if on, how hard are these to change out?
OR, (and likely), a bad expansion valve. Not a difficult fix - does require an evacuation, obviously. The part is about the size of a nickel and doesn't cost a lot more than that. Certainly not a big job, other than the evac and re-charge. Usually you need an equipped tech for that.
Thanks, will check out the part, get it and see about getting my mechanic to fix it. He is good to me when it comes to labor, so hopefully will be an easy fix.
My 1998 explorer sport only blows out hot air. I charged the A/C with refrigerant yet it hasn't solved the issue. I'm not very great with cars so any help would be much appreciated!
Did you ever find out what the problem was with your A/C? My 2010 does the same thing. It cuts out and blows from my defroster for a couple minutes before switching back. I've taken it to the dealer MANY times but they claim it never duplicates while in the shop. Does it to me in a daily basis and seems to be getting worse.
I need to change the flap control to stop sucking up the air from the outside. I have a 2003 Ford Explorer. When I turn the control from inside to change the direction of air,(floor, defrost, max, etc.) It blows lightly out of all vents no matter what I do. Can I fix this or is this something major? When you have the controls on max, it is supposed to recycle the air from inside of the cab but its still takes the air from the outside. I looked behind the glovebox and I see the vacuum motor, is the flap control located there?
I have the same problem with my 95. I dropped the glovebox down and can see the silver arm and door everyone's referring to. It doesn't move when I switch from one mode to another, it stays closed. I can open the door with my hand but still don't feel anything from the vents. I really need help. :confuse:
1997 ford explorer xlt 4.0 ohv mantrans. i have narrowed the problem down to a vacuum problem. There is no vacuum on line to heatcontrol valve and no leak on line. Vacuum diagram shows an outside resurculate door vacuum motor between the inside instrument panel line and the heater control valve outside line. IS there anyone outthere who could point me in the direction of locating the vacuum motor where is it and how difficult is it to replace?
1998 Explorer XLT with 5.0 liter with 100k miles. At 35k, receiver/dryer replaced due to rusting out (original wrapped in foam by Ford...). Has worked fine ever since.
A/C was blowing hot. Turned to vent control, expecting outside air (upper vent and combination upper/lower settings are the two settings that do NOT use A/C compressor). Air was very hot.
Turned car off, turned key to on. Vent setting blows cool outside air. Start car, air immediately turns very hot. Temperature control has no impact.
Seems almost like when the car is running, the air is being pulled directly from the heater?
This doesn't seem to be an A/C charging issue since I can't get the vent to even work. Started to do research, but I don't have A/C repair experience. If it's a mechanical problem, like some door broke and I can get to it to replace it, might be able to remedy situation.
I'm thinking that since we only have a few more weeks of hot weather, I MAY choose to temporarily pull blower motor fuse to see if that makes the vent funnel outside air while driving.
I've read about blend door issues, but haven't figured out how to diagnose that yet.
My ac went out on a camping trip this summer. Thought it was just an ac issue, then this morning when I went to turn my heater on on my way to work it wouldn't blow hot air! Bad luck I guess. Air still blows but it is just air from outside... any ideas? I have none... please help...
Need suggestions please!!! 2007 Eddie Bauer explorer. If I turn on heat it works fine on drivers side only, passenger side is cold air even when temp turned all the way up. Has dual electronic climate controls. Drivers side has great heat. Same issue is present whether I select defrost, vent or floor heat. Drivers side works fine... Now that its cold out this is an issue... paratechs@yahoo.com
HELP PLEASE?!?! I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 6 cyl., and the blower/heater quit working yesterday. The rear still works. I checked the fuses. They were all fine. Please help me, its frozen outside and I need to drive. Thanks!
I turned my ac on the other day. Later that evening I tried to use the heat but it only blow cold air I just noticed that the compressor keeps kicking on and when I am wanting heat and it blows colder air when it kicks on. any help?
Hi there I'm working on a 2002 Ford explorer xlt front and back heat and a/c not working tore apart the dash to check all the lines and blend doors and actuators are all working it has a new thermostat and both lines to and from the heater core are warm not excessively hot but the temp Gage is showing middle to slightly below on the middle. Checked the vacuums inside the engine compartment and running out of ideas
If both front and rear heat and AC aren't working, you must have a door blockage somewhere if you aren't getting any air flow of any sort. This presumes a) your fan is working and b) your AC compressor is engaging.
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer. I recently has refrigerant leakage. I took it to my AC technician for resolution. we checked everywhere including the rear and front Evaporator before we discovered it was coming from the front Evaporator. The front evaporator was replaced and working fine. however, after putting back the rear evaporator, we noticed that fan was only blowing and not cooling. The valve was changed and so refrigerant got to the evaporator. However, we noticed that the fan stopped blowing. We removed the fan and check the fan directly with battery. The fan works when connected directly with battery but does not work when installed. It appears power is not getting to the fan socket. Please what could be responsible? What can we do?
I have a 1996 ford explorer XLT..my heater use to be ok until one day it's stops completely working. When I turn it on the back rear works fine but the front is a no go..But my blower fan behind my radiator works fine and the fuse is good. Is something clog up?
Comments
Also, the engine light came on and we took it in the diagnose it and it says a gas leak (??!?). This happened before and we took it to the dealership when it was under warranty and they said they couldn't find a problem. The light came back on so we took it back. I don't know what they did, but we didn't have the problem again for about a year and now the same issue is happening again. Ford says we have no warranty now (another story - they have been so disappointing and I will NEVER buy from them again).
Are these two issues possibly related and what needs to be fixed? I know nothing about cars so I am nervous to get ripped off. :S
Thanks so much for any help!
The valve leaked, replaced it
The seal of the level control replaced.
It was determined today after the radiator was replaced, that the vacuum hose is not working on the heater valve. The hose was left disconnected and the heater is now working.
The heater valve was purchased and installed by Kaufman Tire Service. The radiator was installed by a referred mechanical service. When the heater did not heat, the mechanic checked out the heater valve and determined the trouble was with the new heater valve system.
I would like input regarding how confronting Kaufman facility that performed the work. This was a cost to me in the amount of $218.00 and it's only been 11 days from repair/replacement.
Thank you for your time.
Constanceb
Plus, please put your comments on what happened on Yelp. People do go by Yelp in getting services.
Any solutions, or ideas? Thanks.
If you google 2002 ford explorer blend door gears, you will see the box im talking about, and you will be able to tell which part you can "temporarily" take apart and stick back into the truck to have a quick fix if they have to order the part.
i have narrowed the problem down to a vacuum problem. There is no vacuum on line to heatcontrol valve and no leak on line. Vacuum diagram shows an outside resurculate door vacuum motor between the inside instrument panel line and the heater control valve outside line.
IS there anyone outthere who could point me in the direction of locating the vacuum motor where is it and how difficult is it to replace?
Thankyou
A/C was blowing hot. Turned to vent control, expecting outside air (upper vent and combination upper/lower settings are the two settings that do NOT use A/C compressor). Air was very hot.
Turned car off, turned key to on. Vent setting blows cool outside air. Start car, air immediately turns very hot. Temperature control has no impact.
Seems almost like when the car is running, the air is being pulled directly from the heater?
This doesn't seem to be an A/C charging issue since I can't get the vent to even work. Started to do research, but I don't have A/C repair experience. If it's a mechanical problem, like some door broke and I can get to it to replace it, might be able to remedy situation.
I'm thinking that since we only have a few more weeks of hot weather, I MAY choose to temporarily pull blower motor fuse to see if that makes the vent funnel outside air while driving.
I've read about blend door issues, but haven't figured out how to diagnose that yet.
Thanks in advance!
jetmech_63, "Ford F-Series Climate Control" #1, 10 Oct 2006 11:48 pm
Drivers side has great heat. Same issue is present whether I select defrost, vent or floor heat. Drivers side works fine... Now that its cold out this is an issue...
paratechs@yahoo.com
You have a relay under the dash to the right of the gas pedal behind the radio
If both front and rear heat and AC aren't working, you must have a door blockage somewhere if you aren't getting any air flow of any sort. This presumes a) your fan is working and b) your AC compressor is engaging.
Please what could be responsible? What can we do?