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Is there any where that provides the demographics on who typically purchases a given car? I very rarely see info like this mentioned in an article or website. For example, IIRC I read somewhere that the Chevy Trailblazer buyer was typically less affluent and less educated than the typical Ford Explorer buyer. Seemed odd to me, as I would think that these 2 vehicles would be cross-shopped by the same people and would boil down to personal preference.
People in the NYC Metro area lease more than most, so leasing is crucial here. When i worked at a Volvo store in Jersey at one point we were at 80% lease penetration. In Missouri it was barely 50%.
Volvo is running a lease on the 7 seater out here.
No matter, have decided against it.
Thanks
Yes, money factors (MF) are negotiable. However, your credit history will have a huge impact on your MF. Strong credit means you'll be able to qualify for the top tier rate. A weak credit position won't leave you with much room for negotiation, if any.
The cost of money follows a tiered structure. For example...
0.00150 + 0% reserves
0.00165 + 1% reserves
0.00180 + 2% reserves
etc.......
Reserves are amounts paid to the dealer by the fund provider as compensation for writing the lease at a higher cost of money (e.g., MF). The 0.00150 MF with 0% reserves is called the base rate or buy rate. ALWAYS ask for the buy rate or that rate with 0% reserves. Some dealers insist on reserves. And so, I simply deduct the dollar equivalent of the reserve level from the negotiated selling price. The dollar equivalent is computed by multiplying the reserve level (%) by the adjusted cap cost less acquisition fee. So, if your $25,000 adjusted cap INCLUDES a $500 acquisition fee and the MF reflects a reserve level of 1%, then the reserve dollar amount is 1% x $24,500 or $245. The reserve level is always embedded in the MF and so the consumer has no idea whether or not they're paying reserves.
Hope this helps.
John
Medina, Ohio
I am looking at a lease currently with a money factor of .00275 provided through Lexus Financial Services. I qualify for tier 1 + credit with a FICO above 730. With their current money factor it looks like they have a large reserve (8.5%), would that be a correct assumption? Is the buy rate the same for all dealerships? For this particular lease, the cap/sale price is 47,800 on a vehicle with a MSRP of 56,519, the residual is $29,955, term is 3 years/36K miles for $758 including tax. I sure would rather have a .00150 money factor if it would be possible.
Thanks for your help.
Money factors have more to do with the programs in place for the particular vehicle you are looking at.
For the cars I sell we have money factors as low as .00070 where your credit score doesn't matter. As long as you have enough credit to get approved you pay the same rate.
On the other end of the scale I have cars with base money factors as high as .00310 and that is with perfect credit. If you have poor credit it climbs as high as .00568.
Cali go to the thread on edmunds that talks about leasing the particular vehicle you are looking at. Someone in that thread will know the base money factor which could very well be .00275 although I doubt it. Lexus tends to heavily incentivize their leases so I would think it would be less.
I was only giving you an example for illustrative purposes only. Sorry for the confusion. Although I could be wrong, my gut tells me that the 0.00275 MF is high and may include reserves. I would ask for the buy rate. The tiered rate structure is dependent upon the fund provider. So, the buy rate depends on the fund provider and not ther dealership.
Given the info you provided, I get a base payment of $709.52 plus tax. So it appears as though your sales tax rate is around 6.75%. It also appears as though the $47,800 sell price is reasonable but check edmunds for invoice pricing in case you already haven't.
John
I was only trying to educate her. Nothing confusing about my presentation. In fact, many people have expressed their appreciation and thanks for my brief "dissertation" on reserves. Tiered rate structures are tied to reserves. Different funder providers have different tiered rate structures. When there is a huge divergence between MF's (e.g., 0.00070 and 0.00310), you're most likely looking at different model cars as well as different terms (i.e., different levels of risk).
Everyone who buys or leases should familiarize themselves with reserves and the many different ways in which they are computed. Knowledge of reserves has saved me several hundred dollars on each of two transactions in the past.
Your suggestion that she look at the appropriate Lexus thread on edmunds is very good advice. I just didn't think of that. At any rate, she needs to find the base (buy) money factor as you've described.
John
Lenders have a buy rate, which is the cost of funds to the dealer.
If the dealer increases that rate on your contract, they get a percentage of that increase.
For example, buy rate is 6%, you are contracted at 7%, so the dealer makes a commission on the 1%.
Your payment is higher than it would have been at 6%,that is the cost to you.
Leases work the same way, although there can be alot of difference in the rates themselves.
Most Lexus dealers tend to pad their lease rates,mostly because they can.
Some dealers will not do a deal unless it has some rate adjustment built in.
Car Man can usually tell you what the buy rates are for leases.
it is important to remember that lease and finance rates are usually based on your credit score. So, the lower your score, the higher the rate.
Car Man usually only quotes the top tier rates, so if your score isn't in the range the lender thinks is top tier, your buy rate would be different anyway.
Good Luck!
Volvomax, thanks, you put it in terms that I can understand.
For instance, their standard rate right now is around .0031
That is the rate you'd pay on an M5, if you were top tier. For lesser tiers, you'd pay more..
But, an '07 328i sedan has a special rate of .0014.. There are no tiers.. if you qualify, that is the buy rate.
Of course, all BMW dealers are permitted to mark-up the BMWFS buy rate by .0004, but that has nothing to do with credit-worthiness.
All of this applies only to BMWFS, and most others don't quite work in the same way. Those numbers are from September and are for illustration purposes only.. they may have changed.
regards,
kyfdx
visiting host
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Also does anyone know the difference between the SmartBuy and the SmartLease? The dealer was really trying to push the SmartBuy. The SmartBuy was only about $10 more per month.
Thank You.
As for needing to know about commisions and reserves,no you don't need to know that.
What matters is the price of the car to you,not how much the dealer is making on it, and the cost of funds to you,not how much the dealer is making on that.
Dealers are gonna make money. BMW dealers are gonna make it on the car and the rate.
That is just how it is.
Try shopping around for the best package, of price and rate.
VFNA operates differently.
Even their special rates have tiers.
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For info on specific vehicles, you'll want to visit the make/model-specific discussions about leasing.
Just use the search box at the left and type in Acura Lease, and you'll get a list of related discussions... same goes for Lexus. You'll have much better luck getting feedback there.
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$26,631.00 for the TSX, $58.48 for the title transfer, $1,868.26 for the tax, $15.00 for the county fee and $143.00 for new plates. This totals $28,715.74 out the door.
36mo X 15K mile term of .00152 and 60%, the dealer comes up with a payment of $442 while I come up with $360. (Note this is IL, so I believe tax is included up front.)
Who is right?
You need that figure to calculate a lease.
regards,
kyfdx
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$29310 CAP cost (OTD + $595 acq.fee)
.00152 MF
60% Residual
$403.33 per month
Due at signing: 1st payment and security deposit
Did your dealer give you the residual and money factor? If not, it's possible they are marking up the money factor for extra profit.
Hope this helps,
kyfdx
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Thanks! They claim this is the Acura lease special with money factor .00152 and residual of 60%.
Does it matter that its Illinois? I've read that tax affects payments differently.
I know Chicago has a monster tax rate on leases.. but, unless the amount of tax is wrong, I don't see where they can find an extra $40/mo..
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Thanks. BTW, residual is 59%.
Could you possibly point me to the lease calculator you are using? I was going to go into the dealer tonight and try to get this on paper. Definitely feeling I should be around $400/month.
1% lower residual results in an increase of about $7.60/month... taking you up to around $410/mo.
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We got our TSX for $409/mo due completely to the power of knowledge and information.
What's more, it was exactly the type of transaction I like - all negotiation was done before I ever set foot in the dealer. When we got there, the car was being detailed, the paperwork was drawn up, we just had to complete the credit app (which was approved during the time the salesman went thru the Acura manuals) and sign the lease. About an hour. Smooth as silk.
Thanks again.
The big banks that do leasing all have the dealers act as their agents.
So, you have to have the dealer do the lease.
there are auto brokers that do leasing. However, they buy the car from the dealer,mark it up,and send the lease to a bank same as the dealer.
However, none of that matters if the lease is cheaper than what the dealer will give you...
They are a reputable company, based in Cincinnati. Started by a dealership group, but they'll arrange lease financing on any car from any dealer.
regards,
kyfdx
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I have decided to buy it at the end of my lease (coming up end of Nov 2007). It has 23,000 miles and is in perfect shape.
Can anyone give me advice on how to prepare well to buy this car - what I can do to get the best deal and avoid any over payments?
I have never bought a car after leasing it so am unsure on how it goes and how much negotiating room I have.
Any assistance is appreciated.
Once you have the number, compare it with what the vehicle is worth. If it's worth more, buy it without a second thought. If it's worth less, well, only you can decide if you're willing to pay over market for it.
It just doesn't feel right to me. But if the leasing is truly through MB financial should that be all that matters (assuming the vehicle I get is the one I want)?
Have you ever heard of such a company? Or is this some scam? Any help/guidance is appreciated.