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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • My 2011 Grand Cherokee Limited with V6 also has the lurching forward while in park problem. It is intermittent and I have been unable to reproduce it at the dealer.
  • My 2012 hemi GC overland is doing the shudder thing when trying to accelerate also. This motor should easily pull up a hill in 6th or 5th but when I give it a little gas it feels like it shudders and won't accelerate unless I really give it gas. At highway speeds when I try to over-take another vehicle, very little gas should be necessary but I have to move the accelerator a lot and it shudders before it goes. There is no throttle response at all. This is not acceptable for a vehicle with this much torque. Dealer reflashed on first trip there last Friday. Took it back today, 9/4 and their test equipment can't find anything. Service manager will not acknowledge the problem but I am supposed to get a callback tomorrow. Tested another 5.7 and it does not feel like this.
  • sigguysigguy Posts: 3
    edited September 2012
    Hey David, I have a 2004 Overland Limited edition with the same problem. It will drive fine and then randomly the RPM will go high then catch itself and of course turn on the check engine light. I went to one place and they said my computer is going bad and I need to replace it. Thats about the only thing I can think to do. But I saw your post about the ground wire from the case to the battery. Exactly how would I do that. If that works great, if not looks like im ganna "try" buying a new PCM and see if that will fix it and get the dang check engine light to turn off.

    Oh and btw mine is not the hemi, its the V8 4.7
  • how do u test the solenoids?
  • I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Whenever it's cold out the transmission usually gets stuck whether going up hill when stopped then rolls back until you rev the gas up to catch. I have the same problem every winter. Even backing out when it's cold out it will get stuck until you rev the gas up hard. I've had the RPM reset as it used to want to stall out on me last year and I believe the teansmission fluid was changed last year to no avail. Can someone pls shed some light. Thank you
  • A few weeks ago I was driving down the highway at around 70mph, and the car shuddered. I actually thought I’d run over something in the road, but there was nothing there. A few minutes later, it happened again, coming out of a speed zone. In the next speed zone, while slowing down, I noticed the car slowing down more quickly than normal, as if I were in a lower gear. I then realized the engine rpm was about 1k higher than normal. Pushing the Overdrive button had no effect on anything. I pulled over and shifted into Park and then back to Drive. When starting out, it felt like I had no power, almost as if the transmission were slipping, but the engine wasn’t revving high like it should when slipping. I parked the car upon arrival at our destination, and then test drove it a bit later, and it was fine, and pressing the OD button had a normal effect on the engine/tranny. On the drive home, it shuddered again, twice, in quick succession, but drove fine the rest of the way home, just at higher rpm (3200rpm at 70mph, or 2700 at 60). Over the course of the following few weeks, it happened intermittently, and nothing environmental seems to affect it. It happens when it is cool, when it is hot, when it is dry, and when it is wet. Sometimes it will happen when I’m driving down the road, and sometimes it will happen from a dead start, without the shuddering. It seems as though I’ve lost the highest gear or two. Sometimes it will only shudder once, and the engine rpm is then higher, but not as high as when it shudders twice. I have found that when it happens, I can pull over immediately, shift to park, turn the car off, start it again immediately, and it is fine. This seems to indicate to me that it is something electronic that is not allowing the transmission to shift properly, or causes it to lose its ability to remain in the highest gear or two. Of course, I’ve checked the fluid and it is fine, not burnt smelling, and filled to the proper level.

    Any suggestions? I’ve already talked to one shop, and they didn’t seem to know exactly what it could be, but immediately went to the option of replacing the tranny…something I’d like to avoid if this can be fixed by replacing a part. I’ve done a little reading, and one possibility seems to be the Governor Pressure Sensor. Another possibility might be the TCM?
  • sigguysigguy Posts: 3
    edited September 2012
    By no means am I a expert, and HATE going to body shoppes because they LOVE to tell you to put in a new Trany, and good bye $$$. I went to Good year and paid for them to do a inspection (which cost $30-70) depending on specials etc. They went over the whole car (TRYING) to find what was wrong so they could have a reason for me to do business with them. At the end they found nothing wrong with the engine. (so they didnt charge me) so I was able to rule that out. My next step was to go and have the computer codes checked. Turned out my PCM (which depending on model is where the TCM is) was going out which was why my transmission hated me. . They tried resetting it, but would error out again. So my end result (for my issues with transmission) was to order a new PCM. Find a good retailer that backs their work and can get it done for around $200. and you can install it yourself.

    Again I am no expert, but going both of those routes helps identify the problem to know where to start without having to go to the dealership and take out a loan to get it fixed :)
  • cpc1cpc1 Posts: 6
    I maybe interested in the new grand cherokee for 2014, I know the 2013 model year will be a short one. Anyway does anyone know how much this new 8 speed tranny will improve gas milage. Also is it a durable tranny. I do know the deisel will also be available next year as a 2014 model, both will be available in 2013 probably late spring early summer. I am also considering the 4runner, any thoughs would be appreciated.
  • We just paid off a non-running defective 2007 WK Overland 3.0 CRD Diesel so we could buy another running vehicle. (in our case, a 2012 Nissan Crew Cab 4x4. Is it a downgrade, yes, but we didn't have much choice after losing approx. 61K on the 2007 Jeep and $5000.00 on the 2006 Liberty.

    I would stay away from any Chrysler product. We gave Jeep a second chance after our first lemon, a 2006 Liberty Diesel. Chrysler is the absolute worst company to work with when you have a defective product. As much as we loved the diesels when they were running for their increased gas mileage, power and handling, I would not wish the hell we have gone through on any prospective buyer.

    We still have the 2007 JGK. There are ethical issues involved with selling it to a private seller because of all the past/current problems and when we tried to trade it in at the dealer, either Chrysler corporate or the Chrysler Jeep dealer came sniffing around, offering a ridiculously low trade in price. It may not be running but there is some value in the rest of the vehicle.

    To replace the engine with a used engine is approx. $7000.00-$8000.00 for the engine alone. The cost of a new engine is approx. $20,000 for the engine alone.

    I'd go with the Toyota.
  • I have a 2011 with the same configuration and mine does that 10x. It started with a shudder during acceleration but has since moved on to a shudder when just driving at a constant speed over 80kmh (50mph).
    The dealer HAS admitted the problem but indicated there is nothing they can do yet as Chrysler has yet to release a fix.

    They mentioned to me it was the torque converter. Said that when the vehicle switches from "ECO" (4 cylinder) back to 8, the torque converter is searching for what to do and is applying then releasing, applying then releasing, almost like a clutch.
    This is what is causing the shudder.

    I call BS and and asked them to replace it but they're saying the new version of the vehicle is doing the exact same thing so they wont replace it.
    Only thing to do is put a lot of pressure of Chrysler.
  • I'm having the exact same issue and I'm just about at my wits end. Dealer is saying the same thing that it's the torque converter and that there is no fix for it yet.
    They also gave me the BS line of driving another one of the lot and seeing that it does the same thing. Well I drove the owner of the dealerships GC and if mine drove like his did, I wouldn't be complaining.
    Point being; seems like every GC has a slight shudder while the engine changes from ECO (4 cylinder) back to 8. The torque converter engages and disengages. But I think there are varying degrees and I can tell you that mine is almost un-drivable now as its constant from 80kmh (50mph) and up.

    I think everyone with this issue needs to put a lot of pressure on Chrysler and maybe if we all talk with the same person, team or group it might help.
  • brn2skifstbrn2skifst Posts: 4
    edited September 2012
    On my last visit to the dealer which was Chrysler's last attempt to fix it, I had the Service Manager at my dealer drive it. He, of course, would not come out and admit there was a problem but told me that they have done all available TSB's and that I could drive it in 6th or "tow-haul" (now why would he tell me that if there was no problem?) I also mentioned the update due in February and he acknowledged that also...hmmm. I then got back on the phone with the Chrysler Rep and told him about the test drive. During my conversation with him he acknowledged the term "FISHBITE" which is what it is being called because of the tugging feeling the problem gives you. He also acknowledged that the software to hopefully rectify it is written but it is going through tests and won't be out until Feb? I filed the paperwork for a NJ lemon law case and am waiting to hear back from them now. If you have the problem, drive it in 6th until the software comes out. We should not have to do that with a brand new $46k vehicle though.
  • I'm in Ontario and we don't have lemon laws here in Canada. I'm searching for an equivalent.
    That said, I just want my car to run the way it was advertised and not have to take legal action against an Automotive giant..

    I hope that patch that's due to come out in February works but doubt it very much.
  • The lemon laws were not an option for us down here because we waited too long. We kept hoping things would get better for our Jeep as well because we loved the car when it was running. Unfortunately the JGC's either seem to be really good or really bad. Hate to see anyone else go through the he** we did with Chrysler. The company refuses to take responsibility for defective vehicles, especially those pre-bankruptcy.
  • shootr52shootr52 Posts: 2
    edited October 2012
    I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee Limited with the 5.2 V8 and 4 speed automatic transmission. This vehicle has been great for me and trouble free, until this past Monday.
    I live in PA and had to drive up a road which included a 3 mile drive up a mountain, and down the other side. i noticed while climbing the mountain the rpms were at 3 grand and the trans did not shift up out of 2nd gear. i had reached 55 mph and it should have shifted to 3rd gear or Drive. i disengaged the overdrive and let off the gas then it shifted. I thought i must be low on fluid. so i was careful coming down the other side of the mountain highway and checked the fluid. it appeared low as i did not see fluid on the dipstick. i added fluid and continued on my way to Allentown where my daughter was going for surgery. i noticed that every time i came a stop the transmission would again not shift out of 2nd gear unless i let off the gas, or shifted to neutral then back to drive. if i pulled out very slowly from a stop it would shift some of the time.
    when we reached the hospital my son -n-law and i checked the fluid again and it again appeared low. the fluid is clean and not brown, and there is no burnt smell. we again added fluid. and left it at that. when my daughter was out of surgery and okay i decided to head home, and her husband would stay with her until her discharge the next day. ( They had followed me in their own car). Again at first the trans shifted normally. then the same symptom started again. i made it home by repeatedly shifting to neutral then back to drive and the trans would shift in to higher gear, until i came to a stop again.
    when i got home, i again checked the fluid, and again it appeared low. so stupid me, i again added fluid. I did not run the jeep again this day, but noticed a few hours later that i had a nice leak of trans fluid that appears to be coming from between the trans tail shaft, and the transfer case. the fluid is clean and un-burnt. i checked the fluid level and found it was way over filled. since i have an external cooler i was able to drain away the extra fluid. with the fluid level showing normal, with the trans hot in neutral. the leak appears to have stopped as i had wiped off the area where it had been dripping and placed cardboard underneath, and only a few residual drops were there. i test drove the jeep again. and again the same symptom of not shifting to high gear appeared.
    I was checking forums here and some are saying it is a problem with the throttle position sensor, i have a new one ordered and will replace it. i am hoping this is the problem. I need and would greatly appreciate any and all input from you jeep guys and gals, as although i have mechanic experience, i am not up to speed on these newer systems of sensors and relays controlling transmissions. i am retired / disabled with spine problems so i am on a fixed income, and i can only do minor work myself. Please post if any of you can offer any advice or help. God Bless and Thank You!! :(
  • This is an update to my prior post. today 10/18/12, i went to get gas and to try a bottle of K&W Trans X. i drove the six miles to the NAPA store and the shifting problem seemed to have gone away.
    They were out of the small bottles of Trans X and not wanting another episode of over filling, i decided to return home. By now the jeep was fully warmed up. and sure enough it started again, only this time i no longer had second or drive.
    When i pulled over to the shoulder and put it in park for a minute or two, i could again go with first second and drive, with drive fading out and it beginning to slip until i manually shifted into second.
    I noted that the problem was at worst when the overdrive was engaged. so i kept the overdrive off. this helped a little but i ended up making it back home using only first gear.
    I again checked the fluid. it is right at the full mark and a pretty pinkish purple. no smell of burned fluid, no brown fluid. I am totally lost at this point. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! :confuse:
  • Hi davides8,
    I have had a similar problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why tehy need to replace these parts.
    Do you think that I may also have a grounding problem?
    Hope you can help.
    Many thanks,

  • Hi,
    I have have had a problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at Jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the problem codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why they need to replace these parts, OR could it be some other problem.

    Hope someone can help.
    Many thanks,

  • That price is insane. The TCM, if I'm not mistaken, can be had for $100.00 or so. The entire transmission can be had for less than 1/2 that price. I'd take it to a good transmission shop.
  • My 2012 Overland with the 5.7 Hemi is shuddering at Highway speeds every time i come to an incline. I have tryed to see if cruise control changes anything, but no luck. The only way around it is to go back into manual mode and raise the RPMS. Just yesterday I went and complained to my dealership for the second time. The first time they ran the diagnostic , and told me no issues were found. So this time I insisted on taking the service manager out on a drive. On the drive he did his best to educate on how the vehicle is designed save me money.... switching to 4 cylinder mode whenever possible. I myself continued to educate him that for the money I payed, this was not acceptable. With the service manager driving, we approached an incline, the vehicle hesitated right on cue. Back at the dealership we scheduled yet another diagnostic appointment.
  • I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that I've been driving for about 4 years, all year-round. Up until the end of last winter, I had no problems driving in most weather conditions, from heavy snow to ice; for the most part I only needed to use the four wheel drive in the worst conditions. However, mid-winter last year, my check engine light came on, and I brought it to the local garage. I found out that I had to get my torque converter replaced, which I did. From around that time, I've noticed that the jeep seems to have a lot more trouble "gaining momentum" from a complete stop, and driving smoothly through relatively docile conditions. Many times, I've come to a stop sign, and tried to slowly start moving again, which always worked in the past, but it still seems to have trouble getting traction (or something; I really don't know much about cars). This includes instances where there is much less than a quarter of an inch of snow, and little or no ice, and cases where it is raining. To my embarrassment, there have been a few times where other cars go by me with ease as I try to get through conditions that I believe I easily could have gotten through in the past. FYI the tires have all been replaced and are of good quality, so I've been assured that it's not likely to be due to worn out tires. I'm planning on asking a local mechanic about this problem soon, but I'd appreciate some second opinions. There have not been any major snow storms since I got the torque converter replaced, but I am worried that the jeep might get stuck even with four wheel drive on, if anything more than a mild storm comes through (and this is new england, so it's expected, although last year we had a VERY mild winter).

    P.S. I'm sure this is related in some way, although not directly, but since the torque converter was replaced, the jeep seems to have some problems switching gears. Instead of shifting from exactly 1 to 2 or 3, the rpms indicator seems to hang a little bit lower or higher, and shifts at weird times. Also, most frighteningly, a few times when I've tried to accelerate quickly, as in going onto the highway, the jeep went straight into the red area of the indicator and stopped accelerating. I've been trying to save up money to get this looked at and maybe maintenanced again.
  • Hi there, I know this was quite a while back, but did you ever find out why your jeep was having trouble moving from a stop? I seem to be having similar problems in snow/rain conditions, although I don't have any of the problems you had with four wheel drive.
  • ":2. After coming out of a stop, or even putting my foot on the pedal after slowing down, it has a hard time grabbing the gear and getting out of first and the engine strain is very audible. Once it shifts out of first, I have no problems.
    Hey there. Did you ever figure out for sure what was causing this? Any feedback would be appreciated!
  • Hi there. I know this was quite a while ago, but did you ever figure out exactly what the problem was? I'm having similar issues on days with inclement weather, and I'm pretty sure it's not the tires, especially considering that I had to have the torque converter replaced last spring. Thanks!
  • Could you please tell me, how did this turn out for you? Did you figure out what was wrong?
  • Okay, I'm having the same problem, exactly. How much does this sensor cost and can I get a shade tree mechanic to fix :cry: it?
  • I am having the same issue. the sensor was replaced for the tranny but didn't change or help. tried contacting Jeep (VERY RUDE). so have another guy looking at it. any ideas??
  • pie4pie4 Posts: 1
    the idol climbs slow as it sits and warms up...sometime up to 2000 plus rpms. while driving it has a whining sound which disappears when i step on the gas. but when im not on the highway...i dont have to step on the gas much becoz of the friggn idol. this drivn me fn !!!!!!!
  • Try replacing your speed sensor and see how that do.
  • We have a 2003 and had a problem and codes suggesting trans failure because of codes PO723.733,734 Incorrect gear ratio and it would not go more than 25 mph, had the trans rebuilt and found a bad pump and replaced the solenoid assembly,torque converter etc. These codes were set when the car sat for a while or over night, but after it warmed up it drove fine. Well got all that done for $1800 and the Jeep still does the same thing with the same code. The shop has had if for 3 days now and can not determine the problem but now looking at the TCM and computer. They told me this morning that when it sits the line pressure at start up is super low but when it warms a bit or runs for a while it goes to the normal setting
    So you guys have any helpful ideas we need to check? :cry:
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