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Any other thoughts on why I might be leaking fluid?
I spent a good 45 min. looking around. The entire bottom of the transmission pan was wet as well as the gasket all the way around but nothing above the gasket had fluid on it. The only other spot was the plate that covers a wire connection on the corner of that pan was covered.
Myself, If I feel I'm going to keep a vehicle for a fair amount of time, I always invest in the factory service manual. No, they're not cheap, but you can rely on them for accurate information. In my view, they pay for themselves.
As for the leak, is it possible to be coming from above, only to be blown on the pan by airflow? Only other "common" source of a leak I can think of would be cooling lines. Another possibility is the fluid could be from something else other than transmission fluid. Transmission pans usually don't contain a fluid level higher that the top of the pan (gasket area). If the gasket has an open spot, it's probably the fluid sloshing around and spilling out. Clean the pan best you can, then observe it after driving a little. Good luck.
-found the prestone stop leak with a old ford aerostar,with a worn out steering rack-a common problem-,..it used a quart in two months-mostly winter,and after two bottles,it still doesn't use any more !..
--lots of folks harsh all that goop,but i'd sooner pay 5 bucks for a stop leak-usually name brand name,then have to rebuild the seals in a tranz..ya just gotta try,and see what works! :sick:
I started it and put it in drive for a minunte and after that it started leaking pretty good ( a drop every 10 seconds or so)
Went ahead and changed the gasket but it keeps leaking in the same spot, at the gasket in the corner by the electrical connection. There were no burrs or dents and I cleaned both faces well.
When I called the dealership and told them my problem right away he asked if it was by the electrical connection but then wouldn't tell me anymore and said I'd have to bring it in.
Any thoughts???
This is a lease and I only have it for two more months and really dont want to take it somewhere and pay acouple hundred dollars to get it fixed.
Thanks for all the help
I crawled back under the car and sure enough that was where the leak was actually coming from. It was almost impossible the see up there so I never noticed it.
You have to buy a whole new connector bushing not just the o-rings but it was only $18 and bout half an hour of work to switch it out. I wish I found this earlier and saved myself and you al ot of trouble.
Thanks again
1. Clean metal surface with lacquer thinner (test on painted surfaces first)
2. Thoroughly clean threads of fasteners with solvent then wire brush. Clean holes throroughly.
3. High quality Felpro gasket
4. Judicious use of RTV sealant and let it cure 24 hours. Follow instructions provided with sealant. Do everything the sealant instructions recommend..
5. If a bolt hole may have access to fluid chamber, try thread sealant on the bolt
6. If gasket is moving around as you install it, try gasket adhesive to hold it in place
7. If bolt hole is leaking get a thin rubber washer and coat it with RTV (believe it or not I found some washers at Lowe's)
8. Over torque the problem bolt or nearby bolts 10-20% and use thread lock. They make different strenghts. Do not use the strongest or you may have trouble getting it off.
Depending on your situation, some of the above may involve risk, but you are at a point where std procedure is is not successful.
I'm surprised the dealership wasn't more helpful to you. That's another reason these forums are so handy. I can't count the number of times they've helped me out.
--when i sold used cars,they called it "morning sickness",as it usually only happened when you'r trying to go ta work..more often than not,the trans filter is starting to plug up..when the fluid's cold-it's thicker,and harder to pass through a gummed up filter..
--my sugestion?have it "power-flushed"whitch changes ALL th fluid-even what's in th torque converter(that doesn't happen when you pull the pan,and change th filter)..
--backflushing also cleans th filter..for the 125 my local aamco quoted me,with syntetic-didn't sound TOO bad..ya change the oil regular,but expect trans fluid to last as long as th car?..kinda goes for th rest of th lubricants -down to th axle grease..
--when owning a car,you can make payments,or make repairs,but usually when the payments stop they "planned obsolesence" parts like duel pumps,water pumps,etc-in a attempt to get you-the consumer-out from under th hood-and into th showroom..
--while taking my just recently aquired-98 laredowith a noisy rear axle,had a salesman tell me"you need a new jeep",and got kinda pissy when i came back with -"i don't need a new jeep-as bad as you need to sell one !"
just another way to milk every nickel they can outta you..,and those salesmen will never know the satisfaction of making a broken thing work again-just because of YOUR talents..i get a lot of satisfaction from that..i can't always fix it all,but i still have some talents.. :shades:
Hard to say whether the tranny was going to give up the ghost anyway, but why stir up all the gunk? I don't even trust the flush where you let your engine do the pumping. Please let us know how it goes, Cecarter3, if you go this route.
amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am
I have read of this problem in other posts but did not see any threads with the answer, I am hoping someone knows what the malfunction and fix maybe. I bought my wife a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 in 11/08, the vehicle had 27,000 mile on it and was still under warranty, now prior to going out of warranty about 8 months later she was driving her vehicle to work when she said the "Check Engine" symbol lit up plus some other dash symbols the engine was still running but she was getting no power to the transmission she pulled the vehicle to the side of the road, shut the engine off waited a few seconds - started the engine and everything was back to normal. When she came home that night and told me of the incident I checked the vehicle out and also took it to the local Dodge Boys to have them run a diagnostic - according to the shop there were no problems. Now the vehicle is out of warranty and this same issue has happened to my wife several times and I could not get the vehicle to repeat this issue nor could the local Dodge Boys. I had read some posts that there could be programming issues with the TCM or PCM and to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and let the system reboot - I did this and had no issues for about another 6 months - in the past month this has happened to my wife twice and the other day it finally happened to me - luckily I was less than 100 feet away from Auto Zone and was able to have them run a diagnostic which came up as U0404 and said something about bad data from the transmission. If anyone can be of assistance please let me know unfortunately like a lot of Americans I find myself economically in a bad situation and cannot afford to trade this vehicle in.
You should see if you can have a mechanic hook a snap-on scanner to it, like my brother's, because it does a troubleshooter on that code and give you some ideas on where to start. You could also check the sensors connections if they are corroded or damaged, but I would look into the troubleshooter first it helps alot.
Ask if there's suppose to be a magnet in the bottom of the pan and if not, is it OK to add one. It collects any small metal particles that are created. I've seen magnets with a lot of grit on them.
If you have to prioritze your budget, get the trans filter swapped out first.
The dealer will be your most expensive choice, but they will actually do the work. Anybody else, ask for the old filter and when you go home, verify it came from your car.
If that doesn't fix your problem, I suspect that the transmission and engine are not interacting properly when the engine is cold.
I drove the vehicle on the freeway for about 35 minutes. At my next stop, I had no reverse and there was smoke coming out of the transmission stick tube. Since that time I have continued to drive it to work about 10 minutes away. I never go over 35 mph. I hear this rubbing, whining sound about seven minutes into the drive.
Now here’s the kicker. Yesterday, reverse started working again. if the torque is damaged, should reverse gear be going in and out? and if it is NOT damaged, what sensors or valves or electrical parts need to be replaced? Or is it now time to drop the dreaded transmission? Sorry for so much detail. Thank you in advance.
It would be interesting to know how the transmission cooler is suppose to work and if it is OK. Is it under pressure like your cooling system and how can you measure it?
As a precaution you might want to verify that the filter is keyed by shape or bolt pattern. There's not enough space here for all my mistakes.
Have someone recheck the fluid levels (maybe someone else as it could be a not-very-ethical transmission shop) under the conditions specified in the manual. For the 42RE it is with the oil hot, the engine running, and the transmission put in Neutral. But it could be different for your car. The shop I took it to wasn't going to put it in Neutral until I pointed out that that was what was written in the manual. No malice on their part, they're just used to checking it with the transmission in Park.
Seems like the jeep is in a "limp mode". In order to get it to move it you have to rev the engine in order for reverse or the jump into 3rd gear to catch. Had Pep Boys check it out. They said it could possibly be the solenoid. Anyone have any idea's? There are some codes they issued with the OBDII check. I'll post them when I can find them.
When I pull out it starts in 1st somtimes and most of the time 2nd. And aome times I have to rev it higher then it slams into gear and takes off.:confuse:
Go here and it will tell about the solenoid and sensor. This is for the 42RE transmission. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442673">link title
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect ratio
P0871 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit Range/Performance
P0876 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Range/Performance
Problem:
Shifter will move from Park to reverse, driver, etc... however it will not engage to reverse, drive, etc without gasing to near redline rpm.
Suggestions/idea's?
Also the MIL light goes on when this does happen. I've reset the MIL by disconnecting the battery. After resetting, turning the car on, the display does not illuminate the MIL. Only after I trying to drive does the MIL show up.
Had the car idle for about 15 to 20 mins before checking the trans fluid level. The color looks good. It's bright red/pink tint. And the level is at a good level when hot. The jeep has 33,500 miles. Have had the jeep for a little over a year (14 months).
Also what type of transmission is in your jeep.
From reading around, about the trouble codes, it seems the likely culprit is a bad solenoid and/or shifting sensors. I'm just trying to rule out a complete overhaul of the tranny.
What do you think here?
Pull the pan and do an ohm's test on each solenoid. They are very fussy and don't have to be off by much to be bad. On my AW4 the test range was 11 to 15 ohms. The bad one tested out at 15.16 ohms! Also, if you buy any, scour the web for them, as the dealers want an exorbitant price. I bought my kit of three for less than the price of one at the Chrysler dealer.
Googleing one of your codes, I came across this page link title and found it interesting. Good luck!
fluid is clean and up, does not smell burnt?? could this be a sensor? :confuse:
My mothers car wouldn't move one day, because the fluid was never changed. We changed it with some lucas, and it stated moving and ever since has smashed into second???
Other things to check are the Kickdown cable adjustment and Speed sensor.
1. Governor pressure solenoid valve
2. Governor pressure sensor
3. Transmission fluid temperature thermistor
4. Transmission speed sensor
5. Throttle position sensor.
Check fluid level HOT!. If fluid is low many different symptoms are possible. A Chrysler shop manual would be very helpful.
One more thing. If you've never changed the filter, do that and put some fresh fluid in it. See the Haynes manual.
change the oil USE THE OIL THAT YOUR TRANS CALLS FOR non other as will create problems change filters see if fixes problem