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Ford Escape Brake Problems



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That's just awful! I'd be beside myself as well. I've had 8 Escapes since 2006, every one of them has been flawless, and I've had all V-6es but one, plus one Hybrid. I have two 2010s. Not a bit of trouble. But lemons do happen, and I'd try to get Ford to take this one back. It sounds like it just has bad Carma... :P Seriously, Your car is not right.
  • jaz7jaz7 Posts: 4
    I have a '04 Escape XLT. The brake warning light comes on, When the car is started, as it's supposed to. But doesn't go completely off after the car has started. It just goes very dim. It can hardly be seen at night and can't see it at all during the day.
  • canuk3211canuk3211 Posts: 1
    My wife has also had her brake pedal lock up 3 times now on our 2004 Escape 4x4. The most recent incident was a few days ago. As she was approaching a stop sign with cruise control engaged, she tapped the brake pedal to disengage the cruise control and found the pedal would not move even an inch. She attempted to depress the brake pedal 3 or 4 more times using more and more force. On the 4th or 5th attempt the pedal finally responded but she was applying a large amount of force by that time and nearly put our daughter through the windshield as the brakes responded. This is a scary and dangerous situation. Ford dealership and local garage cannot identify what is wrong. Did either of the previous posters find out the root cause of this problem?
  • rwiseman1rwiseman1 Posts: 3
    The brakes on my 2010 Ford Escape 4x4 still periodically continues to 'lock up', however, I've never had it happen while driving forward at any speed. It always happens at vehicle start up when I'm first taking off. I've learned to automatically pump the brakes before I even put the vehicle in drive so I know if it's going to happen. There's absolutely no consistency with the problem. Sometimes it happens everyday for a week and then it'll go a month and not happen at all. I've had one situation where the cruise control wouldn't engage...just simply wouldn't...but then a 1/2 hour later when tried it worked just fine. Ford replaced the battery on mine a few months ago and that seems to have fixed the random traction control issue I was having.
    I had a 1997 Ford F150 that I drove for 13 years prior to owning the Escape and experienced the same brake problem your wife experienced. Ford first claimed it was the mats getting up under the pedal (they were the factory ones!) but then they replaced something to do with the speed control tied to cruise a few times on it and I believe there was a recall with the could catch on fire.
    Sad to say, but I've learned to just keep a journal in my car writing down the date and time of everytime the issue happens. Figure if I'm ever in a bad accident it's documented by me as well as at the dealership.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    its probably just a weak ground< not an indicator of imminent failure.
  • I am just in the process of buying a 2004 xlt-I am taking it in on weds to get it cked out. I did a search for recalls and seen that there was a recall for a wiring connector to the abs module. Maybe that has something to do with it.
  • I have an 08 Escape 4 cyl, 2WD, 88,000 mi. On dry pavement, started having intermittent traction light with very weird feeling like brakes were randomly being applied.... then ABS light came on and could feel brakes pulsating when applied.... intermittently. After doing some research on the Internet, I found the problem to be a cracked ABS tone wheel. Spent a good part of one day replacing it. Since they are prone to cracking due to corrosion, I CAREFULLY sprayed (don't want to get it on the brakes) all of my ABS tone wheel areas with corrosion inhibitor. Hopefully, preventing it from ever happening again.... I may spray them occasionally.
  • Could you tell me approx how much it is to replace front rotors and pads for the 2005 Escape XLT AWD. I'm having them done in a few days and wonder what to expect. Thanks.
  • gzcgzc Posts: 2
    I paid $830 at a local repair shop. The dealer would charge more, I'm sure.
  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    You need to immediately negotiate a buy back on that vehicle..Time to get tough .. Don't let Ford get away with this. That is completely abnormal for those vehicles. I have a 01, 4WD with a V-6, that has 210,000 miles and have never experienced any of the problems you are talking about..If I were you, I would be PISSED !
  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    Funny that they said "all four rotors", when Escapes only have two rotors. The rear brakes are drum brakes, so only the front wheels have rotors..
    You should sue your dealeship in small claims court (I hope you got a written estimate on this, so you can take them to court).
    I am really surprised that more people don't take ignorant, crooked dealerships to court..
  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    I believe that your problem is called "ignorant service people"..It is quite common these day's. Both wheel bearings going bad at 43,000 miles would be almost impossible on that vehicle ( I have over 200,000 and have never replaced a bearing)..The issue, for most people,is finding competent service people who actually know how to diagnose a problem properly. Good luck with finding someone, because only one out of ten mechanics are any good...The remaining? Well, we called them 'butchers'!
  • At 68,000 miles, I lost my brakes this morning in my 2006 Ford Escape. The mechanic said one brake line broke and two more were leaking. (At 38,000 miles, I had to buy a new engine because the #6 piston fell apart in the engine and at 50,000 miles, I had to replace the Throttle Body because the gas pedal was sticking) After replacing the brake lines today, I hope there is nothing left to fall apart in this vehicle as I have had to replace everything else.
  • glennab1glennab1 Posts: 2
    My gas pedal has been "sticking" a few times.... it was the butterfly in the throttlebody..... some gumout carb cleaner took care of it.
  • mnovymnovy Posts: 1
    I took my car to be checked. They told me the problem is the wheel bearing on the front right tire. My concern is that I have to drive to Indianapolis on Sunday, what it'll be about two hours drive, and I don't want to get a bigger problem with the brakes. Is it safe for me to drive? And is it really what the problem could be? The light came on right after I had to change a flat right back tire about a month ago.
    Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Now, I could be wrong, but the wheel bearing shouldn't turn on the ABS light. Usually that is an indicator that the ABS module is failing. You'll still have normal brakes, but if you were to go into a skid, you would not get the modulation the car is programmed with to pull you out of the skid, you'd be on your own to do that. Usually not a crisis right away. If a wheel bearing is failing, you should get a noise and a grind from that wheel, not a light.
  • cgorecgore Posts: 1
    The ABS module gets all of its signals from the wheel speed sensor which just so happens to be mounted inside the wheel bearing on most all cars these days. That is how the ABS module knows which wheel is slipping or skidding. FYI
  • I noted a continual grunt just before stopping. Lemon Aid guide suggests its the brakes. I am thinking its to do with the suspension. Of course local ford dealer never heard of the problem. You would think for a $20,000 + piece of machinery, you would not have these problem. Parts sourced globally (read: cheap), BUT assembled with pride in Kansas.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First of all, that's not a $20,000+ piece of machinery anymore, it's about a $6,000 car now, and probably acting like it. If you're driving a car old enough to vote, but you want it to perform as if it's brand new, you're not reasonable. No 6 year old car doesn't have some issues, that's not Ford's fault that it's old. And I agree, it's the brakes, not the suspension. Replace them. By the way, that's not Ford's problem either. If you have so little regard for the car, sell it, but good luck.
  • My 2010 4x4 Escape has the ABS "light on" problem reaccurring again occassionally. It now has 42K miles on it. Dealership claimed it stemmed from battery being low and replaced it last year and that really seemed to take care of the light coming on all the time problem. Hate to think I have to replace the battery every year to elimate an annoying light? Also hate to think that I may just think that's what the problem is when it's really something else. I live an an area that experiences adverse winter weather conditions and require a 4 wheel drive vehicle to even get in and out of my driveway in such. From other cars, including a Ford F150, I've owned, I am very familiar with what it feels like when the ABS actually engages and I have never, ever felt as if the ABS has really engaged on this vehicle even though I've seen that light on dozens and dozens of times.
    I also, still randomly encounter the no brake situation...where the pedal just seems totally hard with absolutely no give and, therefore, does not properly engage. For me, 99% of the time, this occurs when the engine is cold, and more so when the weather seems to be damp outside. I've learned to recognize the telltale sign of engine "shutter" when I put the vehicle in gear and know to immediately pump my brake pedal good to activate them before I back out of my garage in the morning. I can physically feel them finally "give" and know at that point I'm good to go. The Ford dealership has kept this vehicle for days at a time but claims to have never replicated that sensation. Course it might of helped if they had actually put it in gear and moved it more than 2/10 of a mile in all the days it was in their possession...
  • I love my 2008 Escape that has 4 wheel drive as needed. It's a 6 cylinder - NOT hybrid. It has 125,000 miles on it plus. The only problem I have had with it is a strange thing with the brakes. My daughter swears there has been something wrong with it since day one - you put the brakes on and the pedal goes down a bit before engaging. Ford says there is nothing wrong - two dealers, one in PA and one in AZ have told me that over the 4 years I've owned it. It is NOT the ABS engaging, by the way. I know what that is. Yesterday a.m. I went to stop from about 35 mph and the pedal went to the floor before engaging. I have new brakes on the front, and don't need new brakes on the back. I then turned into the gas station, and it did it again, but it did stop. I backed out to take the car home and exchange it for my husband's truck to drive to work, and the brakes were fine. They have been fine since then. I ended up driving it to work - 40 miles each way - no problems. I have no idea what to do with the darn thing. I will get it checked for a leak today, but other than that, what???
  • lostlost Posts: 64
    You need to check out the brake master cylinder, it can be leaking internally (meaning that fluid is escaping past the o rings). I would replace the master and do a good job of bleeding the system afterwards.
  • big company check social media sites..put your complaint on FB (zucher needs the money), Twitter, and (contact at the bottom of the page)
  • I have a 2004 Ford Escape that recently blew both front brake flex lines within one month. Luckily, I was close to home and not on the freeway. I would guess poor quality parts or design.
  • Once had a '97 Contour SE where the ABS light would come on, especially if the ABS or the traction control had engaged 3 or 4 times over a short period of time in bad weather. Dealer said it was ultimately a terminal getting an intermittent short by rain/snow/slush splashing against it, and that after a few times, it would engage the ABS warning light - pulling over and restarting the car would turn off the light. They said that they fixed it by applying lithium grease to the terminal and re-capping it. Problem never recurred after that

    I'm not at all saying that this is your problem but when I read it I thought about intermittent events that might cause the ABS warning to engage...
  • Same year, same model, same problem. Thank God, the failure occurred when my daughter was just pulling out of the garage to go to work.
  • Mine is a 2004, owned since 2003-mileage of approximately 134k. Last night driving home from work, I was attempting to break quickly, as a car pulled out in front of me. My break pedal responded as normal for about the first 2-3 seconds, felt what seemed like a wheel lock up&then my pedal went completely to the floor, with no break response what-so-ever! I grabbed the emergency break&avoided the collision. Got to a parking lot&popped the hood. Reservoir full-couldn't identify any leaks. Limped the car home (5 minute drive). Reservoir was completely empty&fluid visible on inside right front tire. When I spoke to a mech. He said it shouldn't have happened that quickly&immediately...? Thank God it didn't happen 3 minutes earlier, or I'd have been on the freeway going 65MPH....WTH?
  • joe483joe483 Posts: 1
    2005 escape 125,000. miles stoped at gas station put fuel in, start, put foot on brake pedal to put in drive, all the way to floor--left front flex line blew, i checked right side line which was ready to go at same place, wow.
    I replaced both lines and am writing this only to worn anybody that has this vehicle to please check the lines, they are only less then 20.00 ea, ford seems unaware of this huge problem. march 25 2013
  • Same problem a 2005 Ford Escape, my daughter had a brake job at Sears less than 11 months ago and this week end her brakes completely failed while backing out of the garage. The passenger side brake line was deeply cracked in 4 place and would spurt fluid like a severed artery when applying the brake. Drivers side was deeply cracked in the exact same spots just not leaking, 'yet'. There is no way that the Sears mechanic did not see these cracks when they replaced the rotors. And Ford should be held liable for not fixing this problem -- that line is a critical safety component and should be made of at least braided steel hose.
  • ttoulattoula Posts: 1
    My 2003 Ford Escape, 90,000 miles, brakes normally until below 5 mph. Below this speed the ABS "chatters" twice before the vechile comes to a complete stop. This occurrs at low braking pressure and on dry pavement. When I remove the ABS 60 amp fuse from under the hood, the problem goes away, but of course I then have no ABS protection. Does anyone have a solution? TT
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