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regards,
kyfdx
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My gas mileage: On average I got 27 and the best was 30 m/g. Tires: 34. Speed 55-65 (legal limit).
Terrain :flat. Mostly highway. No sharp accelerations or hard stops - in other words - regular defensive driving. Everybody can do it.
Were all CR-V's created equal? :-)
P.S. No tickets (so far).
People who drive aggressively have to add to their maintenance expenses all the tickets, increased insurance premiums, car repairs, medications for high blood pressure, doctor bills, etc. :-(
I do enjoy driving, though.. and my wife is the one who has to deal with the blood pressure thing when she rides with me.
regards,
kyfdx
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I have no doubt that I could get 30+ mpg at 55 - 60 MPH on the road.
In town mileage is generally 21-22.
The most consistent explanation for high or low mpg has been driving style. Most specifically, fast drivers get the worst mpg. It's not a 100% correlation, but it's very common.
If anyone is interested in breaking some suspension bits, shredding tires, or forcefully modding a free flowing exhaust system... you are welcome to join us at Paragon Off-road park in eastern PA. The trails at Paragon are NOT happy little forestry service trails. They mean business, so don't say I didn't warn you.
For the more sensible CR-Ver, I'm currently planing the 2nd Honda SUV Olympics. This is a weekend of silly car games, prizes, and CR-V comaraderie (without the risk of serious damage). We're looking at holding the event in Franconia Notch State park, NH. The tentative date is July 31 through August 1.
I can post more information for those who are interested, or just send me an e-mail.
-juice
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John
It'd be cheaper to get a good aftermarket stereo with an auxiliary input. Change the speakers while you're at it, too.
JM2C
John
Now I just have to decide if I want a CR-V or not (other factors, not the stereo)!
Thanks all for the responses.
Are you talking about the adjustable seat cushion, or the seat back? I can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to get the seat back to move forward far enough. They stop at 90 degrees, bolt upright.
It's been my experience that most people are more comfortable if they adjust the seats in an upright position. Too many try to drive one like they're seated in a car, low to the floor. But if you're already sitting upright, you may have a fairly unique problem.
BTW, Edmunds offered up dozens of free t-shirts for the last Honda SUV Olympics. I still have them and will be passing them out at this next event.
-juice
Anyway, thanks again, and good luck with your CR-V's. At least there isn't any tranny trouble with them!
Peggylou - Nice choice. I can't fault anyone for going with the RX. It's a good buggy. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.
Deg856 - I've only seen first gen CR-Vs that have been lowered (in person anyway). I'm told it's no more difficult than lowering any other vehicle. Whether that alone will greatly improve handling or not is another story. You'd probably have to change out the rims and rubber as well.
http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4020218&sr- c=finance
Here is a question. If residual value/price is high, is it means that the cost of lease will be low( all other things being equal: initial car's value, lease term etc.) Or extra money are pocketed by companies who sell lease?
A captive finance company may have an incentive to artificially increase residuals or lower money factors... However, an independent bank has no incentive for doing so... They are only making money on the financing aspect of the lease.
But, in theory, higher residual values result in lower payments for lessees..
Some Accord leases are ridiculously cheap. You would think Honda would pocket some of that money, instead of offering such attractive lease terms, but they don't seem to.. high residuals are good for us.
regards,
kyfdx
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Also, the overseas models rate the 5 speed at a higher towing capacity than the automatic.
seats - I have seen a set of civic Si seats transplanted into the CRV. something to think about, since they also have side airbags, if that's a concern of yours.
and lowering - I agree that lowering 2" would significantly improve the handling. If it was my daily driver, and not my wife's, it would be done already. Check into coilovers, which may allow you to raise the ride height when needed (if you need that), or lowering springs to use with the stock struts.
finally element stereos - if the connectors on the back are the same, the difference in amplifier power should make very little difference. lots of the connectors on the back are universal. You might be able to check with Crutchfield or another company that sells aftermarket interface connectors to see if they use the same part for the element and CRV. If so, they should plug right up.
US tow ratings are indeed set very conservatively, but I'd at least get a class II hitch if the boat weighs 2500 lbs.
Make sure you factor in the weight of the boat trailer, plus the gear inside the boat. Better yet, empty out the boat and carry that stuff inside the CR-V.
Finally, try not to exceed the 850 lb payload, and if the tongue weight is 200 lbs, remember to subtract that also, you have 650 lbs useable payload.
-juice
The CRV handled the towing real well, plenty of power , good braking . In fact, it is as good as the V8 4runner I traded it in for. Why did I ever do that ! Now I'm getting 16 mpg instead of 24.
BTW, I got $17000 trade in on the 02 EX with 20500 miles (show room clean). Kelly and NADA book lists from $15800 to $18000 for it. $17000 is best I could do . Salesman claims if it were a Ford Escape I'd paid more new , not get more than $13000.
Recommendations aside, the formula Honda uses to determine towing capacity typically includes 4 passengers and enough gear for a weekend trip. Most other companies publish a number that only includes a driver. This might explain why the CR-V is rated higher in other markets. Honda may be using a one driver formula in those countries.
I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission - the manual gets worse mileage. My mileage on pure road trips is generally 25-26, mixed about 24. I don't do a lot of pure in town, but I generally got 21 MPG with only in-town driving. I have my tires at 32 PSI. I did get 20 MPG once early on (less than 1K mileage).
Since we really can't ask someone who obeys all speed laws and rarely sees 4000 RPMs to change their driving habits, I've decided to do the opposite. I filled up last night, and for this entire tank of gas, I will not exceed 4000 RPM or 65MPH.
For background: My commute is 21 miles each way. Approximately 18 miles of that is urban interstate with a speed limit of 55 MPH (I'll try to observe this, but I was almost run over this AM) My usual habit is to drive 65-75 MPH for most of the drive, traffic permitting. I also drive fairly aggressively, seeing the upper reaches of my tachometer on on-ramps, etc. I rarely exceed the posted speed limits on secondary streets, which accounts for my clean driving record, but I still like to accelerate quickly.
On my last tank, I got 22.4 MPG, and that has been fairly consistent all winter.. Somewhere between 21.8-22.6 MPG.
I usually fill-up about every 8th day, so I should have some results by next Tuesday or Wednesday. Wish me luck.
regards,
kyfdx
P.S.: 2002 CRV-EX with 26K on the clock.
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I don't think I have ever gone over 4500 at any time, and in general my CR-V tops out at about 3000. It sounds like you are revving your engine a lot higher than I do on a normal basis.
Remember that you engage the variable valve timing and increase fuel useage at higher RPMs...
I wouldn't say I do that on an "everyday" or "normal" basis.. Interstate on-ramps come to mind, though.... The good thing about having an automatic (and there isn't a lot good) is you can't over-rev it.
regards,
kyfdx
(who won't be revving it up this week)
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regards,
kyfdx
(whose wife made him get automatic..I swear)
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-juice