I'm getting similar MPG numbers in my '99 EX 5 speed. The best I've recorded was 31 MPG highway averaging about 55 MPH. My winter mileage runs 3-4 MPG lower. My CR-V originally came with BFG TOuring T/As, which I ran at 30 PSI. I replaced them last Summer with Yokohama Avid Touring in the stock size and also run them at 30 PSI.
That is two votes for Yokohama Avid Tourings as replacement tires, from theracoon and robmarch. I guess I'll have to check them out. 26K on my '02 right now.. and I think I'll have to replace them at 30K. When I replaced the BFGoodrich on my '98 at 50K, I put the same ones back on, as I only had to buy three tires that way. I wouldn't put these Duelers back on if they gave me three tires.
"... the right foot has a lot to do with it. as does inflating the tires to 32 or higher... ". My gas mileage: On average I got 27 and the best was 30 m/g. Tires: 34. Speed 55-65 (legal limit). Terrain :flat. Mostly highway. No sharp accelerations or hard stops - in other words - regular defensive driving. Everybody can do it. Were all CR-V's created equal? :-) P.S. No tickets (so far). People who drive aggressively have to add to their maintenance expenses all the tickets, increased insurance premiums, car repairs, medications for high blood pressure, doctor bills, etc. :-(
You can be aggressive and still drive defensively. I consider myself an aggressive driver, and have only had one ticket in the last ten years. I've also had the accident-free discount on my insurance for the last 20 years. I admit, I don't get that high of gas mileage, but my cars never seem to have any extra maintenance expenses, other than tires.
I do enjoy driving, though.. and my wife is the one who has to deal with the blood pressure thing when she rides with me.
I once got 28 MPG on a road trip, but it was high altitude, and maximum of 70 MPH (non interstate driving). At 75 - 80 MPH I max out at about 24-26 MPG. Tires at 32PSI.
I have no doubt that I could get 30+ mpg at 55 - 60 MPH on the road.
I've read quite a few mpg threads on various forums. Based on what I've read, mileage for the the 2nd gen CR-V varies over a greater range than the 1st gen model. In other words, personal averages range both higher and lower than the EPA numbers. People get anywhere between 18-30mpg. With the 1st gen models, most folks were consistently within the EPA range.
The most consistent explanation for high or low mpg has been driving style. Most specifically, fast drivers get the worst mpg. It's not a 100% correlation, but it's very common.
FYI. Several CR-Vers are gathering for meets/rallies in upcoming months.
If anyone is interested in breaking some suspension bits, shredding tires, or forcefully modding a free flowing exhaust system... you are welcome to join us at Paragon Off-road park in eastern PA. The trails at Paragon are NOT happy little forestry service trails. They mean business, so don't say I didn't warn you.
For the more sensible CR-Ver, I'm currently planing the 2nd Honda SUV Olympics. This is a weekend of silly car games, prizes, and CR-V comaraderie (without the risk of serious damage). We're looking at holding the event in Franconia Notch State park, NH. The tentative date is July 31 through August 1.
I can post more information for those who are interested, or just send me an e-mail.
After driving my new 2004 EX CRV, there are 2 things I don't like. First the gear shifter is in the way of the driver's right hand when changing anything on the stereo system.Also the glove box is tiny.I would like to know if anyone else has any hastles they don't like about their CRV.
Even though I was the fastest with the blindfold on, I had to disqualify myself from medal contention. Officially, I stepped out because I was the guy who designed the course. The truth is I'm just too darn good.
Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to get the stereo that comes with the Element installed in a CR-V? The Element's unit has a "digital-media auxiliary jack" which I find to be rare in factory stereos. My wife and I like to use our iPod on trips and this would be perfect for us. We'd very much like to not have to use the cassette adapter...odd question, I'm sure.
just bought a 2000'cr-v EX and have found that the driver's seat is extremely uncomfortable. I can only drive the car for 30 minutes or so before "pain in my neck" starts. I have tried all number of pads, cushions etc. with no luck. I am unable to pull the back of the seat up as far forward as I would like and as a result am sitting to close to the steering wheel. I have noticed that the cr-v seats are very flat and small- not really "bucket like". I was told by the dealership that seats are not replaceable due to federal safety laws. Any suggestions on how to modify or replace these seats for comfort?
By “front end felt heavy”, I didn’t mean high steering effort. I meant while turning and moving at low speed, it felt like the front wheels had a lot of rolling resistance, or maybe the tires had very low pressure. Come to think of it, very low tire pressure might cause that twitching/oscillating sensation I mentioned while going in a straight line. If tire pressure was indeed the problem with the unsatisfactory handling I experienced, then that was totally stupid on the dealer’s part because I’ve ruled out purchasing a CR-V partly based on the test drive.
I'm sure your dealer would be willing to "exchange" the stereo for you, and charge you $$$ for all that work, and the parts of course! A quick check on the web shows a suggested retail price of over $600 for Element head unit accessory for a DX model.
It'd be cheaper to get a good aftermarket stereo with an auxiliary input. Change the speakers while you're at it, too.
Shoes4industry - I checked into this stereo compatibility issue. Swapping units between these vehicles will not work. I replaced to 6-disc changer in my '03 CR-V and my daughter wanted to use it in her '04 Element. The installation into the dash is no problem. The problem is that the audio amplifiers are external in the Element and internal in the CR-V (different wiring). That is why these units have slightly different power ratings (4X40 watts for CR-V, 4X50 watts for Element) even though they are nearly identical in size.
Hi, does anyone know if it's possible to get the stereo that comes with the Element installed in a CR-V? The Element's unit has a "digital-media auxiliary jack" which I find to be rare in factory stereos. My wife and I like to use our iPod on trips and this would be perfect for us. We'd very much like to not have to use the cassette adapter...odd question, I'm sure.
Hmmm, I figured it would be like that and, as theracoon mentioned, probably not worth the money. I would think some people would find a feature like that useful, but it did take most of the automakers a long time to even consider putting CD players in factory stereos. They should make it an option--I'd pay extra for this auxiliary jack just to keep the stock stereo since they seem less attractive theft targets.
Now I just have to decide if I want a CR-V or not (other factors, not the stereo)!
Vneck - Can you explain exactly what you meant when you wrote, "I am unable to pull the back of the seat up as far forward as I would like and as a result am sitting to close to the steering wheel."
Are you talking about the adjustable seat cushion, or the seat back? I can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to get the seat back to move forward far enough. They stop at 90 degrees, bolt upright.
It's been my experience that most people are more comfortable if they adjust the seats in an upright position. Too many try to drive one like they're seated in a car, low to the floor. But if you're already sitting upright, you may have a fairly unique problem.
I just wanted to thank everyone who responded to my posts to help me make an informed decision. After 2 months of research and numerous test drives and narrowing down the field to the CR-V or Odyssey, I went out and drove (for a lark) a used Lexus RX300 (certified). Went back with hubby the next day and bought it. Love the car, but still not sure I made the right choice. Mostly went that way because it had all of the safety features I wanted, didn't have to give up anything (well except AWD which I would rarely need)but got trac control and stability control instead, as well as leather, fog lights, power seat, and climate control. Turns out this car has a hard 2-3 shift when its not warmed up. Of course it didn't show up in any of my test drives (drove it 3 times, almost 2 hours, plus a different one for an hour before making offer). Went right back to dealer Tues (Mon holiday) and of course service manager says "thats normal, they all do it". GRRRRR And I could have had a NEW Honda! Somehow I suspect I will be back in this forum in a few years but for now will be a resident of Lexus forum. Not very active over there though.
Anyway, thanks again, and good luck with your CR-V's. At least there isn't any tranny trouble with them!
Robr2 - I assume you're asking about the Olmpics, not the off-road trip. Strictly speaking, the event is planned around the capabilities and characteristics of the Honda SUVs. That said, we've never turned anyone away. I've seen plenty of trips where a RAV4 or other vehicle tagged along for fun. The more the merrier. Come on down...
Peggylou - Nice choice. I can't fault anyone for going with the RX. It's a good buggy. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.
Deg856 - I've only seen first gen CR-Vs that have been lowered (in person anyway). I'm told it's no more difficult than lowering any other vehicle. Whether that alone will greatly improve handling or not is another story. You'd probably have to change out the rims and rubber as well.
Impressive info. Here is a question. If residual value/price is high, is it means that the cost of lease will be low( all other things being equal: initial car's value, lease term etc.) Or extra money are pocketed by companies who sell lease?
ALG publishes residual values that independent banks use. Captive finance companies come up with their own residuals, hopefully based as close as possible to real-world experience, but occasionally inflated to promote sales.
A captive finance company may have an incentive to artificially increase residuals or lower money factors... However, an independent bank has no incentive for doing so... They are only making money on the financing aspect of the lease.
But, in theory, higher residual values result in lower payments for lessees..
Some Accord leases are ridiculously cheap. You would think Honda would pocket some of that money, instead of offering such attractive lease terms, but they don't seem to.. high residuals are good for us.
I would like to buy a 17 foot fishing boat for my son. It weighs between 2000-2500 lbs. The loading pier is about 3 miles from our house, and on level ground. Can our 2002 CRV handle it?
It would appear that the CR-V will tow up to about 2600 lbs, if the trailer has it's own brakes. The overseas models are rated to about 1200 KG - with trailer brakes, about 1/2 that without trailer brakes. However, I would expect the engine to have to work a bit hard to tow that much...
Also, the overseas models rate the 5 speed at a higher towing capacity than the automatic.
seats - I have seen a set of civic Si seats transplanted into the CRV. something to think about, since they also have side airbags, if that's a concern of yours.
and lowering - I agree that lowering 2" would significantly improve the handling. If it was my daily driver, and not my wife's, it would be done already. Check into coilovers, which may allow you to raise the ride height when needed (if you need that), or lowering springs to use with the stock struts.
finally element stereos - if the connectors on the back are the same, the difference in amplifier power should make very little difference. lots of the connectors on the back are universal. You might be able to check with Crutchfield or another company that sells aftermarket interface connectors to see if they use the same part for the element and CRV. If so, they should plug right up.
If you have a Class I hitch, that hitch can only handle 2000 lbs and 200 lbs tongue weight. You might be exceeding the capability of the hitch itself, never mind the car.
US tow ratings are indeed set very conservatively, but I'd at least get a class II hitch if the boat weighs 2500 lbs.
Make sure you factor in the weight of the boat trailer, plus the gear inside the boat. Better yet, empty out the boat and carry that stuff inside the CR-V.
Finally, try not to exceed the 850 lb payload, and if the tongue weight is 200 lbs, remember to subtract that also, you have 650 lbs useable payload.
I towed a 2000 pound package for 60 miles with no problem except transmission got a little hot . Towing 3 miles to the boat ramp is too easy I don't think you need a cooler but do get a class II hitch. Mine is OEM HOnda I think its far stronger than class I aftermarket hitches.
The CRV handled the towing real well, plenty of power , good braking . In fact, it is as good as the V8 4runner I traded it in for. Why did I ever do that ! Now I'm getting 16 mpg instead of 24.
BTW, I got $17000 trade in on the 02 EX with 20500 miles (show room clean). Kelly and NADA book lists from $15800 to $18000 for it. $17000 is best I could do . Salesman claims if it were a Ford Escape I'd paid more new , not get more than $13000.
The Curt company sells a class 2 hitch that will fit the 2nd gen CR-V. A class 2 is very necessary if you plan to stretch your towing limits (which I personally do not recommend).
Recommendations aside, the formula Honda uses to determine towing capacity typically includes 4 passengers and enough gear for a weekend trip. Most other companies publish a number that only includes a driver. This might explain why the CR-V is rated higher in other markets. Honda may be using a one driver formula in those countries.
I just bought a 2004 CRV EX. It has 3900 miles on it, but I have yet to get 22mpg on it. I've taken 2 3hour trips driving 75mph one time I got 19mpg and another 21mpg. The temp on this last trip was around 35 degrees but rained the entire trip. Even in the city I'm getting 20 mpg. Where's this 22/26 mileage that I thought I'd be getting? I had an oil change at 3700 too. Is it because the car is still new? Will this mileage get better? I live in Wisconsin. Thanks.
The owners site and my salesman warned me to wait as long as possible on that first oil change (I did mine at 7K); apparently the factory oil has a special additive that helps break in the engine.
I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission - the manual gets worse mileage. My mileage on pure road trips is generally 25-26, mixed about 24. I don't do a lot of pure in town, but I generally got 21 MPG with only in-town driving. I have my tires at 32 PSI. I did get 20 MPG once early on (less than 1K mileage).
My 2004 CRV EX auto has been getting about 19 to 20 MPG.. I have about 3000 miles on it and its a daily driver mostly highway..I've slowed down a bit and try not to do over 70.. I just filled it up tonite and recorded 23.. so i'll be a bit more patient.. but I dont see getting anywhere near 26-30 that some said they get on here..
I had my oil changed at the Honda dealership I bought it from. They never mentioned to wait. As a matter of fact there was a sticker on the upperleft hand corner of the windshield that said to get an oil change at 3750. Hmmmmmm, I hope it's not permanent damage. Thanks for your reply.
Even the severe change schedule is 5000 miles. Sounds like your dealer is trying to get you in more often for oil changes (a typical money making enterprise). Consider using another dealer for service - this indicates that either they don't know their schedules, or they are unscrupulous. In either case, not a dealership to trust.
Okay... I have decided to do an experiment. The general consensus on this board seems to be that aggressive driving and speeds in excess of 65MPH seem to have a greater negative effect on MPG on a CRV than on other vehicles.
Since we really can't ask someone who obeys all speed laws and rarely sees 4000 RPMs to change their driving habits, I've decided to do the opposite. I filled up last night, and for this entire tank of gas, I will not exceed 4000 RPM or 65MPH.
For background: My commute is 21 miles each way. Approximately 18 miles of that is urban interstate with a speed limit of 55 MPH (I'll try to observe this, but I was almost run over this AM) My usual habit is to drive 65-75 MPH for most of the drive, traffic permitting. I also drive fairly aggressively, seeing the upper reaches of my tachometer on on-ramps, etc. I rarely exceed the posted speed limits on secondary streets, which accounts for my clean driving record, but I still like to accelerate quickly.
On my last tank, I got 22.4 MPG, and that has been fairly consistent all winter.. Somewhere between 21.8-22.6 MPG.
I usually fill-up about every 8th day, so I should have some results by next Tuesday or Wednesday. Wish me luck.
I occasionally see 4500 on a steep hill on cruise control. I generally get up to 3800 - 4000 on an uphill on ramp.
I don't think I have ever gone over 4500 at any time, and in general my CR-V tops out at about 3000. It sounds like you are revving your engine a lot higher than I do on a normal basis.
Remember that you engage the variable valve timing and increase fuel useage at higher RPMs...
It is an automatic.. The redline is 6500 RPM. If you floor it, it will accelerate to redline before shifting. You really ought to try it.. You won't believe the kick when the variable valve timing really opens up about 4200 RPM. I'm assuming you are correct, it will use more fuel that way, hence the experiment.
I wouldn't say I do that on an "everyday" or "normal" basis.. Interstate on-ramps come to mind, though.... The good thing about having an automatic (and there isn't a lot good) is you can't over-rev it.
regards, kyfdx (who won't be revving it up this week)
Actually, with the engine computer controls, even manual transmissions cannot be over-revved these days. The ECU will kick in and shut down the throttle.
But, if you wind out 3rd gear, then hit 2nd instead of 4th, shutting down the throttle will not save you. That is where most engine damage from over-revving comes from: missed shifts.
regards, kyfdx (whose wife made him get automatic..I swear)
Well I emailed the service center of the Honda dealership who did my oil change asking them why they didn't encourage me to wait until the 5000-10000 mile service that the Honda site recommended. I'm still waiting for a reply and will update when I do here back. Also, good luck on the MPG experiment. I'm very curious to see what happens. Thanks for checking into it!
Hmmmm, I think that the engine computer might keep the car from actually engaging the gears in that situation, but I'm not sure if the CR-V uses such electronic control for it's transmissions.
Comments
regards,
kyfdx
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My gas mileage: On average I got 27 and the best was 30 m/g. Tires: 34. Speed 55-65 (legal limit).
Terrain :flat. Mostly highway. No sharp accelerations or hard stops - in other words - regular defensive driving. Everybody can do it.
Were all CR-V's created equal? :-)
P.S. No tickets (so far).
People who drive aggressively have to add to their maintenance expenses all the tickets, increased insurance premiums, car repairs, medications for high blood pressure, doctor bills, etc. :-(
I do enjoy driving, though.. and my wife is the one who has to deal with the blood pressure thing when she rides with me.
regards,
kyfdx
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I have no doubt that I could get 30+ mpg at 55 - 60 MPH on the road.
In town mileage is generally 21-22.
The most consistent explanation for high or low mpg has been driving style. Most specifically, fast drivers get the worst mpg. It's not a 100% correlation, but it's very common.
If anyone is interested in breaking some suspension bits, shredding tires, or forcefully modding a free flowing exhaust system... you are welcome to join us at Paragon Off-road park in eastern PA. The trails at Paragon are NOT happy little forestry service trails. They mean business, so don't say I didn't warn you.
For the more sensible CR-Ver, I'm currently planing the 2nd Honda SUV Olympics. This is a weekend of silly car games, prizes, and CR-V comaraderie (without the risk of serious damage). We're looking at holding the event in Franconia Notch State park, NH. The tentative date is July 31 through August 1.
I can post more information for those who are interested, or just send me an e-mail.
-juice
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John
It'd be cheaper to get a good aftermarket stereo with an auxiliary input. Change the speakers while you're at it, too.
JM2C
John
Now I just have to decide if I want a CR-V or not (other factors, not the stereo)!
Thanks all for the responses.
Are you talking about the adjustable seat cushion, or the seat back? I can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to get the seat back to move forward far enough. They stop at 90 degrees, bolt upright.
It's been my experience that most people are more comfortable if they adjust the seats in an upright position. Too many try to drive one like they're seated in a car, low to the floor. But if you're already sitting upright, you may have a fairly unique problem.
BTW, Edmunds offered up dozens of free t-shirts for the last Honda SUV Olympics. I still have them and will be passing them out at this next event.
-juice
Anyway, thanks again, and good luck with your CR-V's. At least there isn't any tranny trouble with them!
Peggylou - Nice choice. I can't fault anyone for going with the RX. It's a good buggy. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.
Deg856 - I've only seen first gen CR-Vs that have been lowered (in person anyway). I'm told it's no more difficult than lowering any other vehicle. Whether that alone will greatly improve handling or not is another story. You'd probably have to change out the rims and rubber as well.
http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4020218&sr- c=finance
Here is a question. If residual value/price is high, is it means that the cost of lease will be low( all other things being equal: initial car's value, lease term etc.) Or extra money are pocketed by companies who sell lease?
A captive finance company may have an incentive to artificially increase residuals or lower money factors... However, an independent bank has no incentive for doing so... They are only making money on the financing aspect of the lease.
But, in theory, higher residual values result in lower payments for lessees..
Some Accord leases are ridiculously cheap. You would think Honda would pocket some of that money, instead of offering such attractive lease terms, but they don't seem to.. high residuals are good for us.
regards,
kyfdx
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Also, the overseas models rate the 5 speed at a higher towing capacity than the automatic.
seats - I have seen a set of civic Si seats transplanted into the CRV. something to think about, since they also have side airbags, if that's a concern of yours.
and lowering - I agree that lowering 2" would significantly improve the handling. If it was my daily driver, and not my wife's, it would be done already. Check into coilovers, which may allow you to raise the ride height when needed (if you need that), or lowering springs to use with the stock struts.
finally element stereos - if the connectors on the back are the same, the difference in amplifier power should make very little difference. lots of the connectors on the back are universal. You might be able to check with Crutchfield or another company that sells aftermarket interface connectors to see if they use the same part for the element and CRV. If so, they should plug right up.
US tow ratings are indeed set very conservatively, but I'd at least get a class II hitch if the boat weighs 2500 lbs.
Make sure you factor in the weight of the boat trailer, plus the gear inside the boat. Better yet, empty out the boat and carry that stuff inside the CR-V.
Finally, try not to exceed the 850 lb payload, and if the tongue weight is 200 lbs, remember to subtract that also, you have 650 lbs useable payload.
-juice
The CRV handled the towing real well, plenty of power , good braking . In fact, it is as good as the V8 4runner I traded it in for. Why did I ever do that ! Now I'm getting 16 mpg instead of 24.
BTW, I got $17000 trade in on the 02 EX with 20500 miles (show room clean). Kelly and NADA book lists from $15800 to $18000 for it. $17000 is best I could do . Salesman claims if it were a Ford Escape I'd paid more new , not get more than $13000.
Recommendations aside, the formula Honda uses to determine towing capacity typically includes 4 passengers and enough gear for a weekend trip. Most other companies publish a number that only includes a driver. This might explain why the CR-V is rated higher in other markets. Honda may be using a one driver formula in those countries.
I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission - the manual gets worse mileage. My mileage on pure road trips is generally 25-26, mixed about 24. I don't do a lot of pure in town, but I generally got 21 MPG with only in-town driving. I have my tires at 32 PSI. I did get 20 MPG once early on (less than 1K mileage).
Since we really can't ask someone who obeys all speed laws and rarely sees 4000 RPMs to change their driving habits, I've decided to do the opposite. I filled up last night, and for this entire tank of gas, I will not exceed 4000 RPM or 65MPH.
For background: My commute is 21 miles each way. Approximately 18 miles of that is urban interstate with a speed limit of 55 MPH (I'll try to observe this, but I was almost run over this AM) My usual habit is to drive 65-75 MPH for most of the drive, traffic permitting. I also drive fairly aggressively, seeing the upper reaches of my tachometer on on-ramps, etc. I rarely exceed the posted speed limits on secondary streets, which accounts for my clean driving record, but I still like to accelerate quickly.
On my last tank, I got 22.4 MPG, and that has been fairly consistent all winter.. Somewhere between 21.8-22.6 MPG.
I usually fill-up about every 8th day, so I should have some results by next Tuesday or Wednesday. Wish me luck.
regards,
kyfdx
P.S.: 2002 CRV-EX with 26K on the clock.
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I don't think I have ever gone over 4500 at any time, and in general my CR-V tops out at about 3000. It sounds like you are revving your engine a lot higher than I do on a normal basis.
Remember that you engage the variable valve timing and increase fuel useage at higher RPMs...
I wouldn't say I do that on an "everyday" or "normal" basis.. Interstate on-ramps come to mind, though.... The good thing about having an automatic (and there isn't a lot good) is you can't over-rev it.
regards,
kyfdx
(who won't be revving it up this week)
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regards,
kyfdx
(whose wife made him get automatic..I swear)
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-juice