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I traded in my 02EX auto silver 4wd 20200 miles for a 4runner in Houston in January. Best I could do is $17k. NADA book says it worth $18k, dealer ssys Kelly blue book is $15700 something. Good luck. Let us know what you get.
Anyone put one of those bike holders on the back of their V? Which brand? Was it easy to install? Do you leave it on at all times? Is it hard to take on and off? What did it cost.
andrelaplume - I installed one that mounts to the spare tire carrier. It was a easy to install. All you have to do is remove the spare tire, install the standard 2.5 backplate over the studs, and reinstall the spare tire and cover. When you want to use the rack, just remove the cover and attach the rack to the backplate. I got it at bsaohio.com for $112.95
Extended warranties: Sorry I missed the live chat last September. What was the consensus? I have an 04 LX, and got the 5yr/100K warranty ($0 deductible) for $950. If I act within 30 days, I can cancel it.
Ask yourself if you want the other perks - like roadside assistance.
It's just 5 years, but still, that was $355 last time I checked (my dad renewed his after his warranty expired).
If that is something that you want, you're really only paying $595 for the warranty. Odds are one single repair and you'll break even.
Finally, let's say you sell it in 4.5 years and with 95k miles, you still have some warranty left. That gives the buyer peice of mind, surely it'll be a lot easier to re-sell, and might even add value.
...for the ext. warranty advice! It confirmed what I suspected...that Hondas are so dang reliable that it's not worth it. I do believe I will cancel.
(I already have roadside assistance with my car insurance. And it's financed sorta separate... it's tacked on to the end of my loan period. So if I cancel, my payment doesn't go down, but it's 3 months fewer payments)
Get your money back..I think you [aid far too much anyway...there is a website referenced in this forum somewhere that links to a Honda dealer that sell the warranty's cheap...the evn have a $90 coupon. You have 3 years to think about if you really want it. AAA PLUS is about $50 a year....cheaper than the Roadside Assistance.
I bought a 2002 ex new in April 2002. One reason was due to Honda's reported reliability. During the first 18 mos there were three recalls. In addition, last fall, the plug blew out of the oil pan about one week after an oil change at the Honda dealer. Fortunately I pulled over immediately and no damage was done. The car was towed to the dealer. The dealer told me the mechanic did not install the plug correctly.(how complicated is this?) The car itself was fine ie ride, comfort, room, etc. I traded in on a Toyota Tacoma and got $16500 for trade so value was a plus. I can't help but wonder if the oil change problem some how relates to fires as posted on this board?
Those recalls were for piddley items that probably would have never amounted to anything.
The plug "blew out" ??
O.K...assume the dealership mechanic failed to tighten it properly. This happens in the best of shops. In a perfect world, this would never, ever happen but it does.
I don't understand.
Toyota builds great cars and trucks. I think they are excellent and on a par with Honda.
They have recalls too. Not the end of the world.
And, they can leave drain plugs loose too.
Hopefully, all of your "problems" will be solved and you will be happy with your new ride!
I doubt it. I think it is just a coincidence and the two Honda service department's in question have a few mechanics who need to pay better attention to the job at hand. But dang.... an oil plug? How the heck do you screw that up? My 13 year old son can but an oil plug in properly.
Haven't yet found a noise that wasn't accounted for by something in the glove box, doors, etc., or especially the sunglass holder (seems to be the worst - those glasses RATTLE).
The whistle complaints are most likely due to faulty installation of a roof rack, which I don't have on my CR-V.
As far as I can tell, the only consistent complaint regarding nosie is constant hum of the tires. Engine noise and wind noise are about average for this class of vehicle. Actually, engine noise is pretty well dampened. It's the tire noise that most complain about.
Rattles and squeeks seem to be on a vehicle by vehicle basis. Some have them. Others do not. Which is no different than any other car.
I have a Honda Accord EX with 232K miles. It is a great, reliable car with decent gas mileage. I want to purchase another fine Honda auto and am considering the CRV.
I have test driven 3 cars from private parties (with 20K to 46K miles). On two of the vehicles the brake pedal feels like it is grinding and there is an audible noise. I like Honda very much, however this concerns me, especially after reading other CRV owners experiences listed here online.
Is it possible that the brakes are a weak spot or under engineered?
Mine picks up rust on the rotors overnight, even in the garage.. While backing out, and at the first stop it makes an unholy racket, like the pads are gone. But, I have them checked when I have my oil changed every 5000 miles, and everything is A-OK. I've never had this happen on any other car (well.. the rust a little), and it is disconcerting, but after the first stop, rust is gone and brakes are perfect, no noise.
I'm not saying that is what is happening on the used CRVs you are looking at, but it is possible. Do you notice the noise going away after the first few stops?
Check the tire circumferences. They might have put on 2 new tires, with 2 older ones, that might fool the ABS into thinking one axle is moving faster than the other, triggering the ABS.
If that's true, it would also trigger RT4WD and overheat the rear diff. The system has a little slack built into it for that reason, but if the difference is great enough it can cause problems.
Who knows? Maybe they were 2WD models, that wasn't specified.
Also, perhaps the threshold for ABS kicking in is lower than for RT4WD?
Either way, I wouldn't buy a car with brakes that were grinding. The mere fact that the owner ignored what could be a critical safety flaw tells you a lot about how it was taken care of.
12K miles, and the front oem Bridgestones are jes'about to the wear bars. Coulda/shoulda rotated the bunch, for a few thou more miles maybe. (And, the dlr seldom uses a torque wrench for that lil'gross margin enhancing procedure,imo.) Kept the tire press at 30+,(well above the laughable 25 rec'd), but the 4 miles up and down our paved mtn road combined with several "brisk speed" long trips have done them in. Shopping hard on the TireRack and may go w/a set of ASA JS1s, 16x7,in place of the wheelbarrow wheels, and a set of 215/60-16s tires. For a few bucks more they could of shod this thing w/16s up front,imo. NEway, that's my 2Cts. BR,md
I had convinced myself that I was going to do this, but here is what changed my mind.
My wife has a BMW 325i, and I was lurking on a BMW forum, and the posters were discussing upgrading from 17" to 18" or even 19" wheels. Even though they were keeping the same overall diameter (as you would be with 215/60-16), they kept saying how they needed to lower their cars. I asked why. With the thinner sidewall, it gives the appearance that there is a bigger gap between the top of the tire and the fender, even though it isn't. So, everyone that went with bigger wheels also lowered the suspension.
As I'm sure you are aware, that is probably what most people dislike about the looks of the CRV already. It seems to have too much space between the tires and the fenders. Even though your upgrade won't actually create any more space, it will appear to. That is what turned me off of doing it.
College Hills Honda recommends using 235/60-16 tires with the upgrade, mostly for looks. This will throw off your odometer and speedometer readings slightly, however.
Got 20K on my CR-V EX 03, and my stock tires looks like new. I was doing 5-tire rotation every 5K, kept at 34 psi. Mostly highway driving (55-65 mph). Hopefully I could beat 35K expectancy of stock tires.
I have an "02 LX and yes, my brakes grind every morning when I drive out of my garage. Only for the first brake and then not again until the next morning. It sounds TERRIBLE but stops in about a rotation... I have come to think of it as the CRV morning yawn!
This is the first vehicle of mine that isn't an American made sedan...a totally different vehicle...and I think it is just terrific! My cousin bought one after driving mine!
Those Bridgestone Duelers are lousy tires, I've owned a set myself. I bet the BFGs are better. Is that what you have, kizhe?
kyfdx: Element fills up the wheel wells a little better, with 16"s and bigger tires. Those would look good on a CR-V, if they'd fit. It would be a little more than a Plus One.
But, I commute in mine.. About 14K per year.. The last thing I wanted to do was something that might decrease gas mileage, or mess with the odometer/speedometer readings.. The 215/60-16 on Pilot or Odyssey wheels seemed like the best thing, and my first thoughts were that it would improve the look. After my research, I've concluded that it will look worse... So, I'm just opting for better tires. Almost 28k on these crappy Duelers... I might actually get 30K-32K out of them, which I didn't think would happen.. I'll probably go with one of the two options I listed above.
My gas mileage experiment seems to have slightly changed my driving habits.. I notice that I don't seem to push it any higher once I reach 70MPH, and actually stay between 60-65 MPH most of the time... I was running about 22-22.5 MPG prior to my eperiment, and have been above 23.8MPG on every tank since.. I got 25.4 MPG on my last tank.
That is the stock size on the Odyssey.. If you found a set of those wheels with tires on them, you could do a direct swap on a CRV. Just a slight difference in diameter. It still might not look that good, though.
The BFGs are better for longevity, ride, and some say noise as well. The Bridgestones are a bit softer and better for traction when wheeling (though they do get chewed up easily).
Most get about 30K out of the Bridgestones. The BFGs tend to last 40-60K. I got about 55K from my BFGs. The AquaTred IIIs I have on my CR-V now have another 40K on them and they look pretty good.
Rotors are specifically made from very 'soft' steel, which have a lots of carbon. That's why rotors get rusty that quick. Soft steel makes brakes more efficient. Same story with the pads - softer pads - better brakes. These soft pads wear quickly and produce lots of dark powder - you can see that 'upscale cars', which have soft (upscale) pads, always have 'dirty' looking wheels.
Yeah.. On my '98, I got 50K on my BFGs. I think 30K looks about right for the Duelers as well. Though, I'm not all that sure that it gets you any better handling or traction than the BFGs.
I am only looking for 2000 dollars!!!! Hope I (or any other CRV owner) never need his services. But, I still say, given the speed these fires were, if there were babies in the back seat there would have been serious injury.
Comments
Search for real world and pose your question with specifics
Year, make, model, color, engine, tranny, service history, real condition wrt dents-dings-scratches, mileage, and of course city and state.
tidester, host
tidester, host
Honda CR-V Owners: Accessories & Modifications
I believe there are some posts there that would help.
Extended warranties: Sorry I missed the live chat last September. What was the consensus? I have an 04 LX, and got the 5yr/100K warranty ($0 deductible) for $950. If I act within 30 days, I can cancel it.
(now 21 days...)
The chances of needing the extended warranty are pretty small. Even you do need out of warranty repairs, $950 will probably cover it.
It's just 5 years, but still, that was $355 last time I checked (my dad renewed his after his warranty expired).
If that is something that you want, you're really only paying $595 for the warranty. Odds are one single repair and you'll break even.
Finally, let's say you sell it in 4.5 years and with 95k miles, you still have some warranty left. That gives the buyer peice of mind, surely it'll be a lot easier to re-sell, and might even add value.
So is it worth it? Only you can answer that.
-juice
Steve, Host
(I already have roadside assistance with my car insurance. And it's financed sorta separate... it's tacked on to the end of my loan period. So if I cancel, my payment doesn't go down, but it's 3 months fewer payments)
Thanks again!
The plug "blew out" ??
O.K...assume the dealership mechanic failed to tighten it properly. This happens in the best of shops. In a perfect world, this would never, ever happen but it does.
I don't understand.
Toyota builds great cars and trucks. I think they are excellent and on a par with Honda.
They have recalls too. Not the end of the world.
And, they can leave drain plugs loose too.
Hopefully, all of your "problems" will be solved and you will be happy with your new ride!
I'm considering (but not likely) a CR-V because the price and value, but I don't want those problems.
Recommend driving the vehicle that you are going to purchase - take an extended drive if you have to to ensure the noise isn't present.
The whistle complaints are most likely due to faulty installation of a roof rack, which I don't have on my CR-V.
Rattles and squeeks seem to be on a vehicle by vehicle basis. Some have them. Others do not. Which is no different than any other car.
Whats the concensus on the board? Is everybody following the Honda recs and if so how long are the OEM Bridgestones lasting?
We don't offroad or tow, and have the vehicle as an economical,4wd to deal with around town in upstate NY.
Inputs appreciated.
I have test driven 3 cars from private parties (with 20K to 46K miles). On two of the vehicles the brake pedal feels like it is grinding and there is an audible noise. I like Honda very much, however this concerns me, especially after reading other CRV owners experiences listed here online.
Is it possible that the brakes are a weak spot or under engineered?
Thanks for your comments!
buyer
Pulsing means the rotors are warped.
Spongy pedal means the brake fluid is spent.
But grinding? That sounds bad. Could be something stuck in the brakes, a seized piston, or a broken hand brake, maybe?
-juice
I'm not saying that is what is happening on the used CRVs you are looking at, but it is possible. Do you notice the noise going away after the first few stops?
regards,
kyfdx
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Just a thought.
-juice
Also, perhaps the threshold for ABS kicking in is lower than for RT4WD?
Either way, I wouldn't buy a car with brakes that were grinding. The mere fact that the owner ignored what could be a critical safety flaw tells you a lot about how it was taken care of.
-juice
But I agree... I wouldn't want a vehicle that had been neglected.
Kept the tire press at 30+,(well above the laughable 25 rec'd), but the 4 miles up and down our paved mtn road combined with several "brisk speed" long trips have done them in. Shopping hard on the TireRack and may go w/a set of ASA JS1s, 16x7,in place of the wheelbarrow wheels, and a set of 215/60-16s tires.
For a few bucks more they could of shod this thing w/16s up front,imo. NEway, that's my 2Cts. BR,md
My wife has a BMW 325i, and I was lurking on a BMW forum, and the posters were discussing upgrading from 17" to 18" or even 19" wheels. Even though they were keeping the same overall diameter (as you would be with 215/60-16), they kept saying how they needed to lower their cars. I asked why. With the thinner sidewall, it gives the appearance that there is a bigger gap between the top of the tire and the fender, even though it isn't. So, everyone that went with bigger wheels also lowered the suspension.
As I'm sure you are aware, that is probably what most people dislike about the looks of the CRV already. It seems to have too much space between the tires and the fenders. Even though your upgrade won't actually create any more space, it will appear to. That is what turned me off of doing it.
College Hills Honda recommends using 235/60-16 tires with the upgrade, mostly for looks. This will throw off your odometer and speedometer readings slightly, however.
regards,
kyfdx
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Hopefully I could beat 35K expectancy of stock tires.
This is the first vehicle of mine that isn't an American made sedan...a totally different vehicle...and I think it is just terrific! My cousin bought one after driving mine!
Those Bridgestone Duelers are lousy tires, I've owned a set myself. I bet the BFGs are better. Is that what you have, kizhe?
kyfdx: Element fills up the wheel wells a little better, with 16"s and bigger tires. Those would look good on a CR-V, if they'd fit. It would be a little more than a Plus One.
-juice
regards,
kyfdx
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I ended up doing a Plus One, but 10mm wider to a 225/60R16 tire. You get better tire selection in that size, IMHO.
I have 60k miles now, so the new tires already have more mileage than the original ones, and they have plenty of tread life remaining.
-juice
Even old dogs....
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
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Most get about 30K out of the Bridgestones. The BFGs tend to last 40-60K. I got about 55K from my BFGs. The AquaTred IIIs I have on my CR-V now have another 40K on them and they look pretty good.
regards,
kyfdx
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http://www.mlive.com/prnewswire/prnauto.ssf?/cgi-bin/stories.pl?A- CCT=mlive2.story&STORY=/www/story/04-01-2004/0002139222&E- DATE=
Has anyone had experience with this?
http://www.mlive.com/prnewswire/prnauto.ssf?/cgi-bin/stories.pl?A- CCT=mlive2.story&STORY=/www/story/03-30-2004/0002137007&E- DATE=