Hyundai Azera Noises
My 2006 Azera (powder white) Limited Edition has 7500 miles on it, and just recently I've detected a squeaky noise, which seems to be coming from the cowl area, right where the windshield lays against the dash. The noise isn't constant, it comes and goes. Anyone else out there hearing what I'm hearing?
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Take care,
Do you get noise with AC both on and off?
Do you get noise with AC both on and off? yes
terrible problem.....
Anyone have an issue with a squeaking noise coming from the dashboard? It sounds like it's coming from where the windshield meets the dash. The sqeak only happens when I come to a stop and as soon as I begin to accelerate. I don't hear it while driving. If you have ever heard an old car that has a body which is beginning to "flex", you'll know what it sound is like. Kind of like a "creaking around the joints". It certainly does not impart a comforting impression of solidity or safety by the occupants.
So I took my '07 Azera to the dealer on November 19th for an oil change, to fix a sticky cupholder cover, and the noise in the dash. Haven't gotten it back since.
At first the dealer thought it was the dash itself so they took that apart, put in some felt but found the sqeak was still there after putting the dash back together again.
They called to tell me that upon closer inspection, they found that the sqeak was coming from a bad weld at the base of the "A" pillar and that they were going to send it to their body shop for repair. It's been two weeks now and I haven't heard back from them. Nor have my messages been returned by the service advisor.
I'm beginning to get concerned. Luckily, I have another car to drive but I really miss my Azzy and am wondering if it is a suspension/subframe issue and if it is serious. I been able to live with the irritating plastic compression noise when I place my arm on the center console but this sqeak is driving me nuts. I love the car and want nothing more than for it to be fixed.
Any ideas?
You sure are a patient man. If it was my car I wouldn't call I'd be down their talking to the General Manager
At this juncture, not having a loaner might help my case if I have to go to arbitration re: Lemon Law.
Stay tuned.....
I hope it doesn't make more noise after they fix it and put averything back together again. The car is so quiet I'll hear everything.
CJ
I had to put a small soft rubber bumber behind the plate. My 07 Azera is dead quiet.............
I have no idea what if any changes were made. If yours make noise try the rubber or felt idea. Place behind lic. plate. Walmart has all kinds pads located in the hardware dept.
CJ
Have you checked to be certain that the spare tire and tools are properly secured?
CJ
But if I first open the trunk lid, I get no rattle from within. My best guess is that the fuzzy lid cover (which feels rather flexible and does make a little noise when I push on it) is the culprit, and that when the trunk lid is up and somewhat isolated from the body by the hinge support only, the liner doesn't quite get the movement necessary for it to make that little bit of noise...
Shock noise, replaced, end of noise
Rear screen started to sag on upper right side and would hit window when going over a bump, one heck of a thump.
The rear base speaker has had a rattle from day one if the volume was over 6
To fix rear screen requires a lot of patience because to get to the screen assembly you need to remove,
1. the negative battery cable
2. the trunk cover piece just behind the rear seat 2 philips screws when the seat tops are folded down
3. the lower rear seat, remove 2 bolts that are under the cover you just removed, use clean ratchet with extension between lower and upper cushion, push in tabs in front of seat near carpet and remove, an extra set of hands works well
4. both sides of the seat back near the doors, 1 bolt each on bottom, slide piece up and out, disconnect the air bag connector and slip seatbelt through the slit on the bracket
5. the back of the rear seat, 2 bolts in center (1 in each seat section) and the 2 bolts on either side that hold the side of the seat back
6. the bolts that hold seat belts to the floor
7. snap out (I used my finger nail) the round plastic symbol (attached to the frame with a small wire) on the frame around the small rear side window on both sides and remove the torx bolt, the piece then has only one pressure snap holding each side
8. the rear frame on either side next to the package tray that goes to the back window
9. 4 screws on the back of the seat that hold the package tray
10. the package tray, two snap clips on either side, takes some patience as getting them to release is not real easy
11. the package tray behind the screen, four snap clips, this one is a little tricky but it does come out, disconnect connector for rear brake light
12. 4 bolts that hold the screen assembly (2 in front and 2 behind), disconnect connector
well that covers the removal, good job
Typically the aircraft nut holding the right side has backed off and needs to be re tightened. Remove the 2 small screws holding the plastic end cover and remove.
Using 2 open end metric wrenches, 1 open fits into the assembly and the other is used to tighten the exposed nut until quite snug
Replace the assembly in reverse of removal
Temporarily put the negative battery cable back on, operate screen to make sure it fits snugly to the top of the rear window when up
Now is the time to fix that rear speaker, remove bolts and carefully remove speaker and disconnect the connector
Place several pieces of sponge tape around the speaker frame (I used double sided but only took the cover off one side of the tape) without covering the mounting holes, replace speaker, snug bolts a little at a time until you are happy with the tightness, remember if you leave it to loose you get to do all this again to get back to the bolts, ugh...
If your happy, disconnect the negative terminal and replace all the stuff in reverse order
The speaker rattle is gone, the window screen does not thump against the window, ye-ha
Now, you could take it to the dealer and have them do the work, my bet is they would forget the speaker issue and write it off as normal.
Good luck to all, I'm placing my order for the Genesis this week
Let us know how that goes, and if the dealer is even in the Genesis loop.
Congratulations, you will no doubt have one of the first off the ship.
This tedious job was performed twice by dealer, under warranty.
On each occasion they replaced sagging sun shade with a new unit.
It is now working fine.
Why would you want to go through the labor of taking apart car and not replacing the shade with a new one?
If you are concerned about the speaker mount modification, do it as the tech is replacing the sun shade.
Basically current design is not ideal, all of this stuff needs to be removed to replace the third stoplight.
It also allowed me to fix the speaker.
Replacing the whole unit is not cost effective if by design the problem can be corrected at the manufacturer.
And, our local dealer just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling due to some poor service in years past.
Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.
Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Here's the post:
My brand-new 07 Azera has an intermittent rattle (small-ish but annoying) from the center/top dash area. My guess is that it is in the center speaker, because it seems to stop if you press down on it.
Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.
Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.
Anyone have any thoughts?
My Hyundai dealer has no clue that the feature is even supposed to be on the car, and claimed that they cannot do anything about it.
Anyone have any clues?
He also said that the only "possible" solution would be to completely replace the dash pad, which meant taking out the entire dash assembly. I'm just under my 1-year/12,000 mile warranty and it would be now or never. Even if I did replace it all, there's a chance one can open themselves up to more noises, since it's reinstalled by tech guys and not at the factory. Apparently there are more than 300 screws in the dash.
So I took it to another dealer for a 2nd opinion. He basically said the same thing. My noise is so loud sometimes that I need to actually turn on the radio to drown it out. Not SO horrible with XM and all, but I don't want to always have my radio on.
I decided to choose my battles carefully and hope that over time the squeaks actually wear themselves out by rubbing for so long.
If you find ANYTHING out, I'm all ears.
Now, if they could just do the same for the creaking from the front center speaker grille....
About two months ago a plastic panel on the left side of the under carriage cracked around the supporting studs on the front of the panel. This allowed the front of the panel to drop to the pavement at 70MPH. That will wake you up. I pulled over and managed to push the panel back into place and it held until I got home. I installed large washers over the cracked plastic and re installed the nuts. Looking over the panel it seems that Hyundai may have not used large enough washers on the panel; and there are definitely not enough of them.
Last week the right side plastic panel on the under carriage did the same thing. This time I was on a road trip to my grand daughters wedding in Texas City. I was unable to get the panel to stay up while working on the side of a major 4 lane highway, in a rural area. I let it drag until I reached the nearest shop, which happened to be a Jeep dealership about 5 miles away. They immediately put the car on a lift and removed the front half of the plastic panel. Once again the plastic had cracked around the supporting studs and nuts. The back half was still securely attached. The Jeep dealership had me on the road again in less than 15 minutes and no charge for the service. They also inspected the under side of the car to insure it was safe to drive.
Both of my panels failed at 70MPH. At lower speeds the panels would rise up so they would not drag. At higher speeds the air flow under the car would catch the panel and force it to the pavement - hey it was an air scoop. I believe that in slower city driving I heard the right panel "chattering" on the under carriage the week before it dropped. Now that half of the panel is gone - so is the chattering noise.
I believe that the cause of the broken panels is a design flaw for the supporting hardware and a failure to adequately reinforce the panels in areas of high stress (around the holes). I suppose road trash, air buffeting and water pounding on them for 60K miles could have an adverse affect on them over time.
I'm not exactly sure of the true purpose of the panels, but I feel like they are only there to improve aerodynamics - they are not covering anything vital. I'm leaning toward removing them altogether, but will consult with my dealer before doing so.
Have others had the same problem? Oh No - it happened after bumper to bumper warranty ran oh.....shucks...
I took it in and they repaired it by installing larger washers. While the car was in service I visited with my salesrep ( also a friend outside the dealership ) who told me " yeah, it's a common problem, and they sometimes replace the entire shield if they have one in stock ". In my case they didn't have one in stock, but charged me $25 for the larger washers.
For this and for numerous other items that I know are common problems ( chipped steering wheel, suspension issues, etc. ), and which Hyundai will not repair under warranty - I will not purchase another Hyundai product. If they are this nickel-dime on the small stuff, can one really expect them to replace an engine or tranny at 95K miles?
When I requested warranty repair/replacement of the chipped steering wheel, they claimed we scratched it with ring or keys. We drove a Jag for 3 years and never had a problem with its wood steering wheel. I saw an '11 Azera in the showroom and noted it no longer has the " wood " steering wheel. Too many complaints? Our wheel now looks " factory new ( LOL ) " thanks to custom steering wheel chip filler: finger nail polish
1st night taking it for a cruise, going EAST down the highway at 85-90 was fine, in fact, very fun in such a quick little car. I love the Azera it's zippy and fast as hell.
We drove about an hour out of town to a small turnaround area that was dirtt and bumpy. bumped around a little bit nothing sounded like it dragged while turning around in the dirt.
My girl took over for the drive back, and around 75-80mph we got the front lower right bumper drag sound. I thought we had bumped a piece of the plastic undercarriage on the dirt and it was rubbing the wheel or something.
Now i understand it must have certainly been the bumper drag issue due to small washers.
Best way to fix this on my own? Quick and easy?
Also the cap on the rear passenger side door handle came off which is very common on this year and model apparently. Anything I can put on there temporarily to keep the handle from disassembling?