Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The (Crankshaft) woodruff key will be at 12:00 ; this will make the lower marks line up.
The (Camshaft) has a alingment pin sticking out, it will be at 6:00 o'clock then put the cam sprocket on; ( it has two slots coming out from the center hole ) when alingment is correct the slots will be pointing toward 1:00 o'clock and 6:00 0'clock ( NOT at 6:00 and 11:00) . Now all timing mark will line up; both will point upwards. This info is correct for any GEO's with a 5 spoked type cam sprocket..
I checked it for him and told him the headgasket was bad. He didn't want to mess with it any more. So I bought the car from him and changed the head gasket, had the valves ground, and head surfaced. Put it together and couldn't get it to start without removing the bolts from the distributor and turning the dist. beyond its limits. The only way to get is started within dist. limits was to move the timing belt off by one notch. The compression is about 180psi on all cyl.
The biggest problem I am running into now is trying to get things back to where they are suppost to be. From talking to previous owner I now know that he played with the idle screw, tp sensor, ign timming, cam timming, and idle control.
So I have my work cut out for me.
The 1992 and later models used a distributor which does not have vacuum advance, and instead has an electronic advance circuit. With this distributor; the vacuum spigot on the # 1 cylinder intake runner should be capped off, and if there are three vacuum spigots on the throttle body; the center one should be capped.
In this situation, I would first make sure the timing notch on your crankshaft pulley is really at TDC. That can be done by lining up the pulley notch with TDC on the degree scale on the timing cover. Then pull the spark plug in # 1 cylinder, insert a 1/4" rod into the plug opening, and rock the crank pulley in both directions while holding the rod; to see if the piston comes up any further than where it was when the timing marks were lined up. If the timing marks are true; you can trust them for use in further tests. But if the marks are not correct; the pulley may be the wrong model; or the Woodruff key may be missing or broken. If the key is not in place; the mark may be able to move around, which would make it impossible to set the timing accurately enough to tune the rest of the settings. So you'd need to fix that issue before going further.
I'm going to give you a little more information here, but please do not apply it until you've gotten the timing marks to be trustworthy.
Have you tried connecting a timing light to # 1 cylinder, and seeing where the timing is when the engine is idling as slow as possible (with any vacuum hoses disconnected from the distributor and plugged). If your motor has the electronic advance distributor, the check connector terminals next to the firewall on the driver's side should be shorted together with a jumper wire or a paper clip to disable the electronic advance circuit, before checking the timing. The stock ignition timing on the 1.0 motor is 6 degrees BTDC @750 RPM or less.
The normal plug wire positions are; the # 1 cylinder (closest to the fan belt) plug wire is at 12 o'clock on the distributor cap. The # 3 cylinder (closest to the distributor) plug wire is at 8 o'clock on the cap. And the # 2 cylinder (center cylinder) plug wire is at 4 o'clock on the cap. The distributor rotor rotates counter-clockwise.
If you've checked and applied all the above information; and the motor still does not run with the distributor set in the normal range; see where the ignition timing now runs best when checked with a strobe timing light. If it is advanced a lot (notch on the pulley is further to the left than the stock setting on the degree scale) from the stock setting; then move the timing belt back to the stock setting, and try moving all the plug wires one position clockwise in the cap, and then turn the distributor back to the stock range. See if it now runs well like that.
But with the timing belt still set one tooth off; if the motor now runs best when the ignition timing is very retarded from the stock setting (mark on the pulley is located to the right on the degree scale from the stock mark); set the timing belt back to the stock position, and move the plug wires one position counterclockwise on the distributor cap, and then turn the distributor back to the stock range. See if it now runs well like that.
Let me know how it all turns out.
Fix or Junk.
Thanks to both of you for your very good and experienced help.
The noise occurs with the a/c on and off. There were a few times when going around the corner that I had the impression that the source of the noise moved from the right side to the left. I suspect perhaps a loose crankshaft pulley, a slipping alternator belt, perhaps an engine mount, the transmission shifting is smooth and positive and the problem is ther in all gear positions. Your opinion appreciated...thanks
I have a Chevrolet Geo Metro sedane, 1,3 ltr, 1997 and I have this problem :
Sometime when outside is very hot, durring the summer time, and I drive slowly(trafic) the rpm decreases and the engine stop. When I start again the engine, that run perfect another 30 seconds and after this the problem start again. My mechanic scan the engine and find evrything perfect. No Error code. I already chek the EGR valve, the catalizator and the IDLE control solenoid, and all this is perfect.
Can somebody help me, please?
I have a Chevrolet Geo Metro sedane, 1,3 ltr, 1997 and I have this problem :
Sometime when outside is very hot, durring the summer time, and I drive slowly(trafic) the rpm decreases and the engine stop. When I start again the engine, that run perfect another 30 seconds and after this the problem start again. My mechanic scan the engine and find evrything perfect. No Error code. I already chek the EGR valve, the catalizator and the IDLE control solenoid, and all this is perfect.
Can somebody help me, please?
The ignition timing on this motor cannot be properly checked or adjusted without first disabling the electronic spark advance circuit (by shorting the check connector terminals). If the timing is adjusted without first disabling the electronic advance; it will end up being set too far retarded. And that could cause the problem you describe.
Let me know what you try, and what the results are.
I want to tell you that I just changed from 3-4 months the fuell pump, the fuell filtrer,the air filtrer and the distributor cap and rotor. Now I will check what you sugest me and I will call you back.
Thanks zaken1 !
my check engine light is on and i took it to auto zone to get it checked and they told me that they where not picking up a signal from the car. so basically my question is, has anybody had this problem and had it fixed. or is there a fuse that can be replaced so that the diagnostic can be read
Thanks for input,
Steve in Florida
I would not recommend using sandpaper for cleaning up the cylinder walls. A hone is the proper tool to use for this operation. Hones with stones tend to cut and will loosen up the piston clearance; so a ball hone may be more appropriate for just removing glaze and roughing up the surface. Be sure to keep moving the hone up and down through the full depth of the cylinder; in order to create a cross hatch pattern. I would also check the valve stem to guide clearance; as they tend to get loose and will lead to inconsistent valve sealing. These motors are more precisely machined than American iron; and are far more critical on the fit and clearances of parts.
There are two things you can do to strengthen the joint. One would be to apply high strength Loctite to the U-bolt threads. Loctite is a liquid adhesive which is intended to secure threaded parts from vibrating loose. It is applied to the threads just before installing the nut. It is sold at auto parts stores which serve professional mechanics and machine shops, and comes in several different strengths. For your application, I would use the formula which is called # 271 in their industrial line; or sometimes referred to as "high strength" or "stud and bearing mount" in their consumer line. But this product will make it VERY difficult to remove the nuts, if it ever becomes necessary.
There is also a different type of clamp called a "band clamp" that is used by hot rodders and racers to create a strong, leak free joint on exhaust pipes. They are available in two types; butt joint, for pipes which are not inserted together; or lap joint, for pipes which slip into each other. Here's a photo of a lap joint clamp (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-692200/?rtype=10). Unfortunately, this type of clamp is typically made in 2" and larger diameters. My 1990 Metro muffler inlet pipe is 1.5" OD, and the muffler outlet pipe is 1 5/8" OD. I expect yours is the same. However there are narrower band clamps which are available in sizes to fit your pipe. Here's a photo of one that would be suitable (http://secure.chassisshop.com/partrelate/C73-306/). You could use two of these clamps to make a pretty strong joint by cutting a metal can lengthwise, wrapping it around the joint, and securing it with a clamp over the muffler pipe, and another one right alongside it, over the exhaust pipe.
Had I known about the u-bolt clamp issue I probably would have sent the exhaust pieces back. They are indeed from Rockauto, and are illustrated as one piece on their site. Live & learn. I think the band clamp will make it work fine though. Thanks!
Steve
other than general inspection of hoses, what all can I check for vacuum leaks? in searching for cracks etc., is there a way cheater way to look for a leak? btw, seems to still run fine, not sluggish or rough. as described to me via code, large vacuum leak is the code. Thanks for any help
All I get is a clicking at the fuse box under the hood when I turn the ignition.
Battery has a full charge. Once started the vehicle seems to run fine. Is there some other silinoid or switch I need to check?
Another thing you can do is to run a cylinder compression check. The stock compression pressure on this motor is 195psi. If any cylinder pressure is below 165psi; or if there is more than 15% difference between any 2 cylinder pressures; the motor will have to be repaired mechanically (which usually requires reconditioning the cylinder head) before it can run properly.
A clogged fuel filter can also cause such a problem; so I would replace the fuel filter (located along the fuel line under the car, on the driver's side, just in front of the fuel tank). There is a metal cover plate underneath the fuel filter, which is held on by two or three bolts. It usually is helpful to remove the right rear tire to access the filter. You'll also need some golf tees, bolts, or similar items to plug the fuel hose when the filter is disconnected. Otherwise; lots of gasoline will run down your arm and onto the ground (especially if there is a lot of fuel in the tank).
I would also recommend measuring the resistance of the spark plug cables with an ohmmeter. There should be less than 1,000 ohms for each inch of wire length. If the resistance of any wire exceeds that standard; replace all the wires (including the coil wire).
The vacuum hose that runs from the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side to the MAP sensor on the firewall may have fallen off or broken. The wiring harness electrical plug at that sensor may also have come loose. Or any other vacuum hose may be leaking.
The EGR valve may have stuck partly open; so it would be worthwhile to reach under the EGR valve diaphragm, and work the diaphragm through its entire range of travel to make sure it opens and closes freely. If it binds; the EGR valve should be removed and thoroughly cleaned.
If you make all of the above checks and they all come out OK; I would question your observation that the plugs and distributor cap were good. Sometimes a spark plug can develop a tiny whisker of carbon between the electrodes. That can completely shut down a cylinder. Other times, if the plug gap has eroded to the point where it is too large; the plug can suddenly stop firing; but will still look good. Also; if you use NGK plugs in this motor, they are known to lose insulation resistance and suddenly quit for no apparent reason. For this reason; I always recommend that people not use NGK plugs in Metro motors. The preferred plug is Autolite # 63, or Autolite platinum # AP63, or # APP63. The plug gap should be set to 1.0mm (.039").
Metros can be extremely sensitive to the insulation of the distributor cap or rotor. A tiny carbon track on the inside surface between two contacts will shut down 2 cylinders. A crack in the rotor underneath the blade will do the same thing. There are several cheap replacment brands of Metro caps which will misfire when they are brand new. So I will either buy a Borg Warner # C716, or Beck Arnley # 1746959 cap from Checker, Shucks, Kragen, Murray, or O'Reilly, along with a Borg Warner # D682 rotor; or spend a bunch more to buy a comparable quality Echlin # EP854 cap and EP855 rotor from a NAPA parts store.
The timing belt might have jumped out of position; causing this type of problem; but that is much less likely than the above possibilities.
Never pull off a plug wire from a spark plug when running, only pull them from the distributer cap side. This is because the power is looking for the best or closes conductor of ground, and you don't want to be it. By pulling it from the cap when running you will not get a shock unless you get between the two connecters that you have separated. Just keep your cool pay attention and amaze your friends that watch: you can become confident with this and learn from your mistakes; with a little conmen sense and practice you can test your eng better and faster then your mechanic that is amassed at how you do this. You must hold a grip on the wire about 1 inch behind the boot and pull it off while it is running. I always make sure that my other body parts are not touching the car and that I am not bare footed or standing in water. I am sure that you think that I am joking But I am not, I have been doing this for 43 years and have not been shocked since I was 16 years old. I am just giving you a most useful tip that identifies a miss. You should not do this on the more sophisticated electronic controlled automobiles; but you can do this on your GEO and it wont mind. If when you pull a wire there is no spark or variation, then you have a bad wire or something wrong under the cap that is preventing the completion of the power to that plug. If you pull the wire half way off and watch the spark jump and you here the eng clear up and run good while watching the spark jump, then it is a bad plug or something cause that plug to not spark well, low compression because burnt or stuck valve, or carbon sticking that valve open a little or a big list of things that can cause compression loss. Also at times improper fuel mixture to that Cyl. from a vacuum leak or a combination of things creating an imbalance and picking on the weakest one. The GEO 3 cyl needs all three to be strong; If not! you will surely feel that imbalance.
I hope that I have made all of this clear for you to understand; any questions about it just ask. Please let me know how it goes. Good luck!
Another, less likely possibility is that the fuel pump relay has failed.
My manual transmission Metro has done this when I had a carpet on the floor; which was thick enough that it prevented the clutch pedal from going all the way down. That kept the clutch pedal position switch from engaging when the pedal was pressed down. I eventually bypassed the clutch switch by shorting the two wires together which went to that switch. Took a little while for me to get used to the fact that the starter would run whenever the ignition switch was turned; regardless of whether the clutch pedal was up or down.
Next guess???
If the original fuel filter (located underneath your car on the fuel line, on the drivers side in front of the fuel tank) became clogged up with dirt; cutting the fuel hose under the hood and splicing in a new filter there will do absolutely nothing to make the fuel flow through the old, plugged up filter: So the fuel line is still plugged up!!! You need to replace the original fuel filter with a new part that is designed to fit in the original location.
There is also a finned silver colored heat sink mounted on the firewall or the driver's side inner fender next to the fuse box; which contains the injector resistor. I think that part is more likely to have shorted out than anything else.
The other cars I have seen without fuel filters were all 2001 and later; but the Metro seems to have been an exception.
HOWEVER, if your Metro was not made with an external fuel filter; then there would not be anything on the fuel line in front of the tank. If the part you found only had two hoses attached to it, and did not have any electrical wires; it MUST be a filter. So I would connect a clean hose on the inlet end and try blowing through it. If it doesn't easily allow air to pass; then it is clogged and must be replaced. Take the part to a parts store and get the closest filter that will match. Sometimes cars have parts on them which were not supposed to be there. This can happen if a car was reconstructed from used parts after an accident; or if someone modified it. And sometimes the parts catalogs have errors in them.
If the part you found also has an electrical connector on it; that is not a filter; but is the external fuel pump which was used on older Geo Metros. Those fuel pumps sometimes go bad (as.also do the pumps in the fuel tank). You can have the pump pressure and output volume tested by a shop.