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Comments
Personally I'm really surprised about the posted questions about problems.
The vehicle is really easy to diagnosed and fix, but most of the questioners - so call back yard mechanics - they do not have any experience to qualified to work on the cars. If you never work on cars, or your knowledge is limited, do not attempt to fix the problem, because you will create more problems that you can handle.
Your explanation about problems i rising questions about the problem to focus on.
One is asking question about the fuel problem, another guy is advising about dirty fuel tanks in gas stations. What is giving me conclusion - you must own gas station to keep clean fuel in the tank.
Another guy is asking about electrical problem on the starter and lights on the dashboard - looks like he must replaced all wiring on the car, because he do not know where he can start to diagnose the problem. You do not know, that the fuse box also has ground? The starter switch can be check also? You can start the car with the ignition on and screwdriver ?
What happen to the basics.
You are not a doctor when you sick, you can't fix your problem with your poor knowledge. Asking questions and getting stupid answers - can cost you more than you can handle. Second, you will loose your "love" toward Geos Metro.
The car do not "brake" easy. If you never work on cars - do not attempt to fix the "monster" with the kitchen knife and fork. You will creat more problems and you will hate this car.
This email is only for those who thing the car is easy to fix just by asking questions.
Mark
To everyone else thanks for your Q&A and a place to share. I recently rebuilt a 96 engine and had an unusual failure. The engine started making noise like a loose bearing so I removed it and found the crank pulley bore very loose and moving on the crank. This explained the poor idle and acceleration. I have 93-96 models and cannot find a crank pulley in my area and as this is the only model with a crank sensor I am considering changing the engine management system to a pre-96 pcm. If this is what I want to do I will need a wiring schematic for both models with pin identification for both models. Any help with the pin id's would be apperciated. T
pulled head found exhaust#3 burnt.sent out for head job.they call to tell me the head not repairable.the cam is all worn and head where it ride(bearing surface on one end).so I got a used head for them to rebuild and that will be done...what I would like to know is the why it wore out?oil flow to head bad?If so,how would I check to make it now has flow ,or that the passage way for oil to the head are clear .can I blow air in the block up that way.the engine is still in the car. the intake
exhaust,and head are removed .looking for Ideas,and or experiences here.thank you
Testing on a warmer day, the economy was back, but I got another engine-warning. This time, it still felt good, and speeding up a bit helped. It has also been running considerably warmer than usual. I want to know if it will be reliable for a long trip this weekend.
thank-you :confuse:
Thanks, WTSteve
thanks, kendall :confuse:
had mine towed and the place called this am. said the intake is leaking causing a vac leak. im thinking i am about to get raped mmmmmm. they have to order the gasket and will call thursday. will keep you posted.
kendall :sick:
try vibrating the relay with another person in the car with key in on position. the censis is the relay solder joints are breaking away from the metal posts.
I love my metro and now that gas has hit $4.00 a gallon, I love it even more!!!
Dan
I'm having the same problem on my 98. Did you get any help and if so, would you please share!
genns
Thanks
A bad plug wire is the second likely possibility.
If the center insulator (on the engine end) of your spark plug was cracked; it could indicate an excessive amount of spark advance. This has the potential to cause major engine damage. I would check the ignition timing. But if the distributor cap was bad, it also could cause a plug insulator to crack. So could using a spark plug that is not the model intended for this motor.
Some less likely possibilities are a defective ignition module, a bad coil, or a bad ignition pick up unit.
I hope this helps!!!
Joel
Thanks again.
Bob
my problem is when cool and to make clear its not a over heating issue.
i can drive it 40 miles or 10 miles shut off the engine then it wont restart
it will turn over and act like it wants to start and sometimes will start briefly than quit. or if drive long enough will eventually stall out and not restart until oh about
as little as an hour or as many as 2 or 3 hours then i can repeat. like this mourning i drove 10 miles stopped at a gas station let the car run idling fine go 2 more miles to the library shut it off wont start now waiting my 2 hours to start and drive again!
I hope this helps!!!
Joel
It is also a good practice to always start the car by turning the key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, and waiting in this position for ten full seconds; then turn the key the rest of the way to start the engine. The reason to do this is that it allows enough time for the electric fuel pump to properly prime the fuel injection system. On some cars, this can make all the difference between the engine starting, or refusing to start.
I am hearing more and more reports from people who own many different types of vehicles, who are having this problem. It is becoming worse, as more and more oxygenating additives are being added fuel in order to reduce emissions. But this starting technique makes a huge difference!!