Wow, those have really come down in price since the last time I looked.
I will consider one for my next Miata.
$400, seriously? I remember when they broke a grand and sold for $999, I was all excited.
I'm checking it out now....Bluetooth, SD on the front (nice), screen is 5.8", not bad and I guess that helps get the price down. Doens't play DVDs, but that's not really a big deal either, none of my stereos can do that.
The screen rendering looks pretty sharp, the text is easy to read, better than some OEM units.
Hello: Haynes has finally produced a repair manual for the 2002-2006 Honda CR-V. It is Haynes #42026 and is available online at www.Haynes.com or at most auto-parts stores. I was probably the last guy on the planet to hear about this nifty manual, but I did buy one today. Oh well....
I own a 2005 Honda CRV and I just bought a mountain bike and need to install a hitch to mount a bike rack. I'm too short to mess with the roof bike rack. I have always had the dealer work on the car and always used honda parts. However, I don't plan on hauling anything and I don't want to spend a lot of money. Thus, the dilemma. Any suggestions on a hitch, install, or an alternative? Also, I've never gotten better than 24 MPG on 70/30 highway/city driving. I'm no lead foot and I only run the AC when it's really hot. So, what are you folks who are getting better than 26 MPG doing? I use 87 to 89 Octane from my local Shell station.
The Kurt hitch was fairly easy to install. Took 1/2 hour or so. alot easier than the honda hitch. Otherwise can you just remove the front tire and put the bike in the back?
I had a 2005 CRV before I totaled it last week. I also bought a bike rack that fit into the trailer hitch and fit around the spare tire. I think it's a Yakima. It works well for 4 bikes.
I wouldn't recommend 4 bikes attached to the spare tire as I believe the spare tire isn't structuraly attached. It is just attached to the exterior sheet metal. If you do some search on the forums I'm sure that you will be able to find the posts that explain it better.
"Too bad you didn't get an extended warranty. They don't cost a lot for Hondas, because what happened to you isn't common. "
I can't believe you said that, there is an entire forum about Gen 2 compressor failures! Yes, I suppose statistically it may be uncommon out of the many units built, but these failures are apparently due to a design problem with the compressor. I don't find A/C Compressor failure forums for other makes!
My 110 K mile, 2002 CR-V's steering pump has been making a rattling or chattering noise. I flushed and replaced the entire steering system with new 'Honda' fluid. No change. I also replaced the pump (albeit with a salvage pump); however the same noise or rattle continued right away. The last thing I did was to replace the belt and belt tensioner... this time the noise seemed to go away for about a day---however it came back as before. This problem seems to have no ill steering effect, and as far as I can tell, the car steers as it did when it was brand new. The rattling is stronger or more pronounced when increasing the load on the pump... as when turning steering wheel at a stop or at slow driving speeds.... or when reaching the stops of the steering range.
Is there a pump pressure adjustment somewhere? Could the problem be coming from another part of the steering system? I don't mind getting a new pump (not one from a salvage yard) if the problem is the pump for sure. I hate to spend the $ if there is a chance that it could be something else.
Just a thought,,,,,,are you sure it is not the rear differential chattering ? It will grown or chatter when turning especially when turning tight or near steering stops limits. Many, in fact most experience this chatter or grown around 30 to 40 K miles and changing the fluid and burnishing the clutch plates in the differential cures it. Good luck. George in IL
My 2006 CR-V 2WD had 33K miles on it when I began noticing a scraping sound either back or front right, at low speeds. It becomes more audible when turning left. The closest Honda dealer inspected it for $105 and informed me that I will have to pay another $345 to have the rear wheel bearing replaced. I really do not think ANY car's wheelbearing should go out at 33K, let alone a Honda. Though I believe could do a wheel bearing replacement myself, I JUST DO NOT HAVE time! Any advice, anybody? :confuse:
My 2002 Honda EX CR V has 90,000 miles on it. I bought it new and has been a great trouble free car. It has been garaged in Florida, so other then a few paint chips form some of the long distance trips I have taken it on: two times to Utah and Montana and some other long trips to the upper midwest and east coast, the car looks good and the engine purrs smoothly. I am a trying to decide if I should trade it in on a new Cr V or perhaps a Toyota Rav 4. Think the 2002 is maybe worth @ $7,500 on a trade in. Plan on another trip out west next summer. Is this car OK to make the trip again or should I trade her in and enjoy a new car. Some say I should just drive it till the wheels fall off. Would like to hear what others should do. My other car is a 2005 Accord EX with 37,00o miles on it.
New cars are pretty expensive in comparison. However, if you keep the 02 CRV you may want to put aside 3 grand or so for the AC system. If it were me, I'd be inclined to dump the 02 before the AC goes because the $7500 trade you've been quoted will be reduced to a net of $4000 or so if the AC blows up on it and you live in a hot climate which runs the AC alot.
Keep it. For at least the next couple of years, your repair costs will almost certainly be less than what you'd lose in depreciation if you bought a new car. For example, a new $25K car will be worth at least $5K less by its 1st birthday, while your car's value will go down by only a few hundred dollars over the next year. So even if you have to spend $3K on repairs during that time, which is not very likely, you'll still be money ahead of where you would be if you replaced your CR-V.
Most people tend to overestimate repair costs & underestimate depreciation expense when they're doing car ownership math.
One more thing. Don't trade your CR-V in when you decide to buy a new car. Sell it privately. You'll be surprised by how quickly your car sells & how much you get for it. Having sold a nearly 12-year-old Accord that wasn't much to look at in just one day, I'm speaking from personal experience. Used Hondas & Toyotas can bring stupid money.
I generally agree with what you are saying Except the $3500 AC repair is on top of depreciation and even Honda loving Consumer Reports give these things a black dot for AC. If their Honda blows the AC tomorrow, that's an instant out of pocket loss of $3500 and in Florida you can't really live without the AC unfortunately! Further, when you read the blogs it looks like the AC repair doesn't hold up long term either.
According to Consumer Report's website, to which I subscribe, reliability of the '02 CR-V's climate system is average. (CR's data suggest that 2004 was the worst year for CR-V A/C problems.)
Moreover, the '02 CR-V is among the used cars that CR recommends in the $8K to $10K price range.
If it were my car, I might consider selling it (certainly not trading it in) & buying a new one - but not out of fear of high repair costs. The best reasons for getting rid of it are safety-related. The '02 lacks stability control & curtain air bags, both of which are critically important safety features.
I want to thank all you who replied to my question. I think I got good advise from all of you. I am inclined to get a new CR V or Rav 4. Both are good cars. Oh God, another decision.
I've been buying new & used cars since the early 1970s, & I've learned 2 things along the way.
First, while some cars are more reliable than others, every car has its weak spot, No car is bulletproof. In other words, all cars, without exception, are crapshoots. If you want a sure thing, walk or take the bus.
Second, if you habitually get rid of perfectly good cars because you're afraid that something expensive might fail tomorrow, or next week, or next year, then you will certainly go broke some day. It is almost always cheaper to fix what you own than it is to replace it. Yes, there are exceptions to this rule, but not enough to keep frequent buyers from impoverishing themselves, as they usually do.
Hey, I'm just looking at it from a business and risk analysis like you. There are always two sides to an argument. Only Honda knows the percentage of AC failures, but some things seem to indicate it is a problem area - excessive blogs on the matter and the fact that Honda suddenly took a hard line against its customers, which is something it normally doesn't seem to do. If it was a very slim risk it wouldn't have been that expensive for Honda to handle it like they did trannies on Ody and Accord. You'll also note that there is whole forum dedicated to just CRV AC issues including more than a few people on their second or more AC repair!
From a financial basis you can look at it on a depreciation basis which is probably the basis you are using. However, to me its more than just a pure dollar decision. You can also look at it from a risk basis. Right now the vehicle still has a some decent trade value left, if the AC goes that just changed big time. Honda's are not invincible, and just like domestic cars when a car gets to be 8 years old its likely to start nickel and diming you, and also more likely to fail on the road than a newer car. If you don't mind these inconveniences and are willing to absorb a seemingly better than average chance of a $3500 AC bill, then keep the car. However, I prefer to to get rid of them when they get around 6 or 7 years old ( or 65-70K or so) anyway, before all the hassles start. Most cars I've had (foreign or domestic) also start riding worse and rattling at this point, as well as leaking on the garage floor. If a car has an apparent high dollar weakness, be it AC, engine, tranny, etc. to me that's another reason to dump it. Besides, when you start replacing major components there is a good chance it won't hold up or perform as well as the original which has been my experience at least.
So I just don't dump cars frequently, nor does holding a car 6 or 7 years lead to impoverishing myself (most of the depreciation is over by then anyway as that curve has pretty much changed to straight line depreciation by then, similar to learning curve behavior). Also, at this point the money you are saving on depreciation for a 7 or 8 year old car is probably being outrun by the inflating new car prices over that period of time and repair and maintenance costs. Take a look at the 02 price versus a 2010. You don't see a lot of fleet cars, even low mileage ones kept much past 5 years other than municipal vehicles. Please don't start telling me the corporate fleet and accounting people don't know what they're doing either.
You don't see a lot of fleet cars, even low mileage ones kept much past 5 years other than municipal vehicles. Please don't start telling me the corporate fleet and accounting people don't know what they're doing either.
Back in the 90s, Hertz, owner/operator of the world's largest privately-owned vehicle fleet, & the General Services Administration, the Federal agency that purchases the U.S. goverrnment's non-military vehicles, ran separate long-term studies to answer this question. They both reached the same conclusion: to achieve the lowest possible cost per mile, you should keep your car for at least 10 years and, if you can put up with it, drive it into the ground.
We typically keep our cars for 8 to 10 years - long enough to save up the money to pay cash for the next new car, since we're allergic to debt. Although I did keep one car for more than 13 years, I would have saved a lot of money if I had gotten rid of it at the 11 year mark. Apart from that outlier, our repair bills have been low (thanks in part to a good independent mechanic), so I don't allow unknown future repair costs to drive our buying decisions.
In any case, you'll recall that I said in an earlier post that if I owned an '02 CR-V, I'd replace it, so we're in substantial agreement. It's just that my reasons for doing this aren't the same as yours.
Sounds like us. Our only remaining obligation is a 15-year mortgage, & we're throwing extra money at it every month. After we've retired that puppy - within the next couple of years, I hope - I'll quit working & devote my time to competitive napping & the perfect martini.
We typically keep our cars for 8 to 10 years - long enough to save up the money to pay cash for the next new car, since we're allergic to debt
You're smart to do this as long as you pay cash, don't run into some major repairs and don't mind the ride and ambiance of the car deteriorating a bit. If you have the equipment and skills to do the repairs, that's even better. Here's the problem for most though, many people don't bank the car payment (heck a lot of people cash out their 401K rather than rolling it over when they change jobs). By not saving the cash to buy a car, the less the trade is worth, the bigger their problem at replacement because this situation often forces them to both take an extended duration loan and a higher principal amount. The longer the loan, usually the higher the rate as well. If a car isn't real popular they might get a lower promotional rate, but that usually means forgoing the rebate so it doesn't end up helping them as much as they think, plus the less desirable new vehicle will likely depreciate even faster next time. A $20K loan for 5 years at 7.5% results in over $9K in additional interest cost. That puts a big cut into their net savings from depreciation avoidance. In effect, this situation means the nonsavers end up with a cash flow problem that negates their opportunity to minimize vehicle cost. People that can't save may actually end up better by just having a set lease payment every month unfortunately.
As for fleet vehicles, trucks tend to last longer than cars. However, there is the issue of increasing repairs and fleet down time as well as direct cash outlay and recoupment. A lot of firms ditch a vehicle around 5 o r 6 years because they can still get some residual value back and they avoid increasing repair frequency and vehicle downtime impacts.
Even if people don't have the cash to buy their first new car outright, they can make it happen with their second car.
Let's say they financed a car for 5 years at $300/month. After the loan is paid off, and they keep te car, but they put the same $300/month they were spending on the car note into a interest bearing account. After 5 additional years of using the same car, they would have accumulated $18,000 in principal and some interest. Even if they used that account to pay for the repairs, they would still have enough money to not to have to finance their second car. Even if the car prices run away and an average transaction is $30,000, they are already $18,000 ahead.
However, the reality is that people lack discipline. Either they trade cars in before they are paid off, or not set money aside after the car is paid off.
Majority of the people have this mentality of "I see it, and I want it now!!" The troubling part is that they have been elected to offices and are now running the country in the same manner. Spend, spend, spend, think later.
Unfortunately, there is no bankruptcy protection for when you run the country into the ground.
Strongly agree. Many people also create problems for themselves by buying more expensive cars than they can afford. Because their monthly payments are straining their budgets, they can't set aside money that they could use later on for post-warranty repairs or for large down payments on their next cars.
As a result, these people tend to panic when their warranties are are about to run out. The prospect of a big repair bill, no matter how remote, terrifies them because they have no cash reserves. So they trade for a new car, often rolling negative equity into the next loan.
I set aside money from every paycheck to cover repairs. I learned long ago that for real peace of mind, you can't beat a healthy balance in an interest-bearing account. This money is available not only for car repairs but to cover any unexpected large expense that comes along - the clothes dryer that starts eating my socks, for example.
In any case, I have no plans to get rid of my '06 CR-V EX, purchased in November, 2005. Not only has it been absolutely trouble free, it also has something that I can't get in a new CR-V: a stick & 3 pedals. If Honda wants to tempt me, it'll have to bring that back.
it also has something that I can't get in a new CR-V: a stick & 3 pedals. If Honda wants to tempt me, it'll have to bring that back.
Yup, the lost their market there. Mine is a 3 pedaled one as well. :-)
Hopefully, they will deliver on their promise of the Diesel CR-V with 6-speed manual.
Although, I am not really in the market. There is absolutely nothing that interests me. And the ones that do catch my eye are not available with stick.
People get bored with what they are driving. Boredom equals unhappiness.
Yeah, but they have bought a boring vehicle in the first place. Where is the fun of putting the shifter in "D" and stomping on the pedals? I agree, there is no fun.
There is no way an automatic could repllicate the feeling of putting the shifter in gear and feeling the gear catch as you release the clutch, and making a very synchronous movement...
Had people drove manuals, they would have been excited about their cars longer, perhaps?
Maybe they got bored of trying to hold their 5 speed in gear in hour long bumper to bumper commutes? Not much fun in that, but if your new toaster car has MP3 and satellite radio, maybe that will keep you happy for a while.
I've about forgotten what this thread was about. Driving CR-Vs forever?
A lot of car sales are impulse decisions motivated by boredom, fear, compensation or that ol' debbil, "something new will boost my self esteem." Small wonder that impulse decisions, poorly made, often with negative assistance from the sales person, don't look so good after a couple/few years. If there are aliens subscribing to most of our car mags, they prolly think we're all eternally stuck in ninth grade when it comes to personal finance. Mebbe they're right. Why would anyone design a car in such a way that a rear camera was needed to see out the back? And yet . . .
Here's a question that comes up from time to time. Haven't seen it raised for a while, so I'll ask it now.
When the time comes to replace the OEM Bridgestone Duelers, what should I get? My CR-V is a suburban runabout that never goes off-road & is occasionally used for long highway trips. I'd like something that will improve ride quality.
Maybe they got bored of trying to hold their 5 speed in gear in hour long bumper to bumper commutes? Not much fun in that, but if your new toaster car has MP3 and satellite radio, maybe that will keep you happy for a while.
I've about forgotten what this thread was about. Driving CR-Vs forever?
A) Never had a problem driving a manual in NYC traffic. When it is wall to wall, I do what truck drivers do. Keep it in 1st and modulate my speed with the throttle. I rarely have to brake, or clutch. With enough distance between me and the car infront, I just move at a constant 5 mph crawl. Occasionally, there is an idiot who thinks they will get somewhere faster by cutting in front of me, but most of the time, it is just me and big rigs in the right lane crawling at 5 mph. While the rest of the dummys are contantly doing stop and go within inches of the car in front of them. That, I am sure can be frustrating.
If you look at the used car sales statistics, faily new (2-4 year old) automatics are disproportionately over represented in the used market, while manuals offered for sale are usually over 10 years old. I think that alone proves that people who drive manuals are happier with their vehicles, and hold on to them longer. Could it be a function of: "Manual vehicles are more fun" or "Manual drivers are smarter" ??? I don't know. Maybe it is both?
As to the MP3 player and Sattelite radio... those can be added to any vehicle with a simple $100 headunit replacement. It surely beats paying $25,000 just to get those in a new car.
Here's a question that comes up from time to time. Haven't seen it raised for a while, so I'll ask it now.
When the time comes to replace the OEM Bridgestone Duelers, what should I get? My CR-V is a suburban runabout that never goes off-road & is occasionally used for long highway trips. I'd like something that will improve ride quality.
Any thoughts?
I am on my 2nd set of Yokohama AVID Touring S tires. I just bought another set from discount tire direct when they had a $40 rebate on them last week. With Bing cashback and shipping it came out to $258 for 4 tires shipped.
Last set only cost me $200 shipped with a $100 rebate in 2007. I am down to 3/32' already, and will replace them next summer.
I think you're better off just putting a good quality car tire on. I put Michelin Harmony on mine several years ago and what a difference all around. Much improved. I think Goodyear Comfortread is a similar type tire at a little lower price. I've never had a good experience with Bridgestone/Firestone personally. I wish the car companies would let you upgrade tires before delivery instead of having to drive off the dealer lot in crap rubber.
I think you're better off just putting a good quality car tire on.
I'm inclined to agree with you. The last time this topic was discussed here, which must have been 2 or 3 years ago, that was pretty much the consensus of the group.
The overall condition of the roads around here (NYC suburbs) is poor & getting worse, & the Bridgestones don't help a bit. Also, I'm getting (surprise!) older.
I think you're better off just putting a good quality car tire on. I put Michelin Harmony on mine several years ago and what a difference all around. Much improved. I think Goodyear Comfortread is a similar type tire at a little lower price. I've never had a good experience with Bridgestone/Firestone personally. I wish the car companies would let you upgrade tires before delivery instead of having to drive off the dealer lot in crap rubber.
Yokohama tires provide the quality of Michelin at decent price.
Michelin tires are good quality tires, but they are extremely overpriced.
Comments
I will consider one for my next Miata.
$400, seriously? I remember when they broke a grand and sold for $999, I was all excited.
I'm checking it out now....Bluetooth, SD on the front (nice), screen is 5.8", not bad and I guess that helps get the price down. Doens't play DVDs, but that's not really a big deal either, none of my stereos can do that.
The screen rendering looks pretty sharp, the text is easy to read, better than some OEM units.
It runs Windows CE, so people have hacked it on AVIC411 forums, from maps to adding buttons, to adding DIVX playyers, and so on.
The drawback of Windows CE, it almost takes a minute for it to start up.
It think I'll actually go with another portable, though. Not sure...
Any suggestions on a hitch, install, or an alternative?
Also, I've never gotten better than 24 MPG on 70/30 highway/city driving. I'm no lead foot and I only run the AC when it's really hot. So, what are you folks who are getting better than 26 MPG doing? I use 87 to 89 Octane from my local Shell station.
Thanks!
Since that is the only reason that you need the hitch, this seems like an easier solution.
I wouldn't have thought of it, but I saw your model CR-V with just that set-up on Thursday..
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I can't believe you said that, there is an entire forum about Gen 2 compressor failures! Yes, I suppose statistically it may be uncommon out of the many units built, but these failures are apparently due to a design problem with the compressor. I don't find A/C Compressor failure forums for other makes!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1e3b64/379#MSG379
This problem seems to have no ill steering effect, and as far as I can tell, the car steers as it did when it was brand new. The rattling is stronger or more pronounced when increasing the load on the pump... as when turning steering wheel at a stop or at slow driving speeds.... or when reaching the stops of the steering range.
Is there a pump pressure adjustment somewhere? Could the problem be coming from another part of the steering system? I don't mind getting a new pump (not one from a salvage yard) if the problem is the pump for sure. I hate to spend the $ if there is a chance that it could be something else.
Thanks,
George
Many, in fact most experience this chatter or grown around 30 to 40 K miles and changing the fluid and burnishing the clutch plates in the differential cures it.
Good luck.
George in IL
:confuse:
The price actually isn't too bad, I paid over $500 on a Mazda 626.
You need a press and special tools, so I say bit the bullet and pay - if you're past warranty.
Most people tend to overestimate repair costs & underestimate depreciation expense when they're doing car ownership math.
One more thing. Don't trade your CR-V in when you decide to buy a new car. Sell it privately. You'll be surprised by how quickly your car sells & how much you get for it. Having sold a nearly 12-year-old Accord that wasn't much to look at in just one day, I'm speaking from personal experience. Used Hondas & Toyotas can bring stupid money.
Moreover, the '02 CR-V is among the used cars that CR recommends in the $8K to $10K price range.
If it were my car, I might consider selling it (certainly not trading it in) & buying a new one - but not out of fear of high repair costs. The best reasons for getting rid of it are safety-related. The '02 lacks stability control & curtain air bags, both of which are critically important safety features.
What % of them fail?
I had a 93 Miata and sold it this year, in some ways I still regret selling it.
First, while some cars are more reliable than others, every car has its weak spot, No car is bulletproof. In other words, all cars, without exception, are crapshoots. If you want a sure thing, walk or take the bus.
Second, if you habitually get rid of perfectly good cars because you're afraid that something expensive might fail tomorrow, or next week, or next year, then you will certainly go broke some day. It is almost always cheaper to fix what you own than it is to replace it. Yes, there are exceptions to this rule, but not enough to keep frequent buyers from impoverishing themselves, as they usually do.
Hey, wait a sec....
From a financial basis you can look at it on a depreciation basis which is probably the basis you are using. However, to me its more than just a pure dollar decision. You can also look at it from a risk basis. Right now the vehicle still has a some decent trade value left, if the AC goes that just changed big time. Honda's are not invincible, and just like domestic cars when a car gets to be 8 years old its likely to start nickel and diming you, and also more likely to fail on the road than a newer car. If you don't mind these inconveniences and are willing to absorb a seemingly better than average chance of a $3500 AC bill, then keep the car. However, I prefer to to get rid of them when they get around 6 or 7 years old ( or 65-70K or so) anyway, before all the hassles start. Most cars I've had (foreign or domestic) also start riding worse and rattling at this point, as well as leaking on the garage floor. If a car has an apparent high dollar weakness, be it AC, engine, tranny, etc. to me that's another reason to dump it. Besides, when you start replacing major components there is a good chance it won't hold up or perform as well as the original which has been my experience at least.
So I just don't dump cars frequently, nor does holding a car 6 or 7 years lead to impoverishing myself (most of the depreciation is over by then anyway as that curve has pretty much changed to straight line depreciation by then, similar to learning curve behavior). Also, at this point the money you are saving on depreciation for a 7 or 8 year old car is probably being outrun by the inflating new car prices over that period of time and repair and maintenance costs. Take a look at the 02 price versus a 2010. You don't see a lot of fleet cars, even low mileage ones kept much past 5 years other than municipal vehicles. Please don't start telling me the corporate fleet and accounting people don't know what they're doing either.
Back in the 90s, Hertz, owner/operator of the world's largest privately-owned vehicle fleet, & the General Services Administration, the Federal agency that purchases the U.S. goverrnment's non-military vehicles, ran separate long-term studies to answer this question. They both reached the same conclusion: to achieve the lowest possible cost per mile, you should keep your car for at least 10 years and, if you can put up with it, drive it into the ground.
We typically keep our cars for 8 to 10 years - long enough to save up the money to pay cash for the next new car, since we're allergic to debt. Although I did keep one car for more than 13 years, I would have saved a lot of money if I had gotten rid of it at the 11 year mark. Apart from that outlier, our repair bills have been low (thanks in part to a good independent mechanic), so I don't allow unknown future repair costs to drive our buying decisions.
In any case, you'll recall that I said in an earlier post that if I owned an '02 CR-V, I'd replace it, so we're in substantial agreement. It's just that my reasons for doing this aren't the same as yours.
Me too. All 3 cars paid for, house is on a 15 year mortage. 2nd property is paid off. :shades:
Life is good.
You're smart to do this as long as you pay cash, don't run into some major repairs and don't mind the ride and ambiance of the car deteriorating a bit. If you have the equipment and skills to do the repairs, that's even better. Here's the problem for most though, many people don't bank the car payment (heck a lot of people cash out their 401K rather than rolling it over when they change jobs). By not saving the cash to buy a car, the less the trade is worth, the bigger their problem at replacement because this situation often forces them to both take an extended duration loan and a higher principal amount. The longer the loan, usually the higher the rate as well. If a car isn't real popular they might get a lower promotional rate, but that usually means forgoing the rebate so it doesn't end up helping them as much as they think, plus the less desirable new vehicle will likely depreciate even faster next time. A $20K loan for 5 years at 7.5% results in over $9K in additional interest cost. That puts a big cut into their net savings from depreciation avoidance. In effect, this situation means the nonsavers end up with a cash flow problem that negates their opportunity to minimize vehicle cost. People that can't save may actually end up better by just having a set lease payment every month unfortunately.
As for fleet vehicles, trucks tend to last longer than cars. However, there is the issue of increasing repairs and fleet down time as well as direct cash outlay and recoupment. A lot of firms ditch a vehicle around 5 o r 6 years because they can still get some residual value back and they avoid increasing repair frequency and vehicle downtime impacts.
Let's say they financed a car for 5 years at $300/month. After the loan is paid off, and they keep te car, but they put the same $300/month they were spending on the car note into a interest bearing account. After 5 additional years of using the same car, they would have accumulated $18,000 in principal and some interest. Even if they used that account to pay for the repairs, they would still have enough money to not to have to finance their second car. Even if the car prices run away and an average transaction is $30,000, they are already $18,000 ahead.
Majority of the people have this mentality of "I see it, and I want it now!!" The troubling part is that they have been elected to offices and are now running the country in the same manner. Spend, spend, spend, think later.
Unfortunately, there is no bankruptcy protection for when you run the country into the ground.
People get bored with what they are driving. Boredom equals unhappiness.
As a result, these people tend to panic when their warranties are are about to run out. The prospect of a big repair bill, no matter how remote, terrifies them because they have no cash reserves. So they trade for a new car, often rolling negative equity into the next loan.
I set aside money from every paycheck to cover repairs. I learned long ago that for real peace of mind, you can't beat a healthy balance in an interest-bearing account. This money is available not only for car repairs but to cover any unexpected large expense that comes along - the clothes dryer that starts eating my socks, for example.
In any case, I have no plans to get rid of my '06 CR-V EX, purchased in November, 2005. Not only has it been absolutely trouble free, it also has something that I can't get in a new CR-V: a stick & 3 pedals. If Honda wants to tempt me, it'll have to bring that back.
Yup, the lost their market there. Mine is a 3 pedaled one as well. :-)
Hopefully, they will deliver on their promise of the Diesel CR-V with 6-speed manual.
Although, I am not really in the market. There is absolutely nothing that interests me. And the ones that do catch my eye are not available with stick.
Yeah, but they have bought a boring vehicle in the first place. Where is the fun of putting the shifter in "D" and stomping on the pedals? I agree, there is no fun.
There is no way an automatic could repllicate the feeling of putting the shifter in gear and feeling the gear catch as you release the clutch, and making a very synchronous movement...
Had people drove manuals, they would have been excited about their cars longer, perhaps?
toastercar has MP3 and satellite radio, maybe that will keep you happy for a while.I've about forgotten what this thread was about. Driving CR-Vs forever?
Anyone have any older CR-V questions or comments?
When the time comes to replace the OEM Bridgestone Duelers, what should I get? My CR-V is a suburban runabout that never goes off-road & is occasionally used for long highway trips. I'd like something that will improve ride quality.
Any thoughts?
I've about forgotten what this thread was about. Driving CR-Vs forever?
A) Never had a problem driving a manual in NYC traffic. When it is wall to wall, I do what truck drivers do. Keep it in 1st and modulate my speed with the throttle. I rarely have to brake, or clutch. With enough distance between me and the car infront, I just move at a constant 5 mph crawl. Occasionally, there is an idiot who thinks they will get somewhere faster by cutting in front of me, but most of the time, it is just me and big rigs in the right lane crawling at 5 mph. While the rest of the dummys are contantly doing stop and go within inches of the car in front of them. That, I am sure can be frustrating.
If you look at the used car sales statistics, faily new (2-4 year old) automatics are disproportionately over represented in the used market, while manuals offered for sale are usually over 10 years old. I think that alone proves that people who drive manuals are happier with their vehicles, and hold on to them longer. Could it be a function of: "Manual vehicles are more fun" or "Manual drivers are smarter" ??? I don't know. Maybe it is both?
As to the MP3 player and Sattelite radio... those can be added to any vehicle with a simple $100 headunit replacement. It surely beats paying $25,000 just to get those in a new car.
When the time comes to replace the OEM Bridgestone Duelers, what should I get? My CR-V is a suburban runabout that never goes off-road & is occasionally used for long highway trips. I'd like something that will improve ride quality.
Any thoughts?
I am on my 2nd set of Yokohama AVID Touring S tires. I just bought another set from discount tire direct when they had a $40 rebate on them last week. With Bing cashback and shipping it came out to $258 for 4 tires shipped.
Last set only cost me $200 shipped with a $100 rebate in 2007. I am down to 3/32' already, and will replace them next summer.
I'm inclined to agree with you. The last time this topic was discussed here, which must have been 2 or 3 years ago, that was pretty much the consensus of the group.
The overall condition of the roads around here (NYC suburbs) is poor & getting worse, & the Bridgestones don't help a bit. Also, I'm getting (surprise!) older.
Yokohama tires provide the quality of Michelin at decent price.
Michelin tires are good quality tires, but they are extremely overpriced.
From 1997-2006, I sold a ton of new CRV's and probably three or four were sticks.