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When I first start the car I have good control to the hvac system hot and cold. After a while, when the car has warmed up OR with excessive RPMs things begin to change.
For example: A hot day. When I first start the car I've got good AC front and back. After driving a short distance you hear the noise, the distinct sound of an air damper closing (I call it sucking over). After it sucks over there is no going back to cold air. The rear a/c WILL still blow cold, but the front is hot as can be.
On a cold day when I need heat, the unit will blow cold until I can get it sucked over. I do this after the engine has warmed up by reving the RPMs, while the car is in first gear. Once it has sucked over there is no controll of the temp on the thermostat. It only blows HOT.
Oh yea one more thing, it idols rough. The thermostat knob is NOT digital.
I thought it was my blend door but now I'm begining to wonder if I have a vac leak.
PLEASE HELP.
MITCH
The blower kept blowing, but at gradually lower volume and higher temperature after you had been driving for a while?
If so, your evaporator core was iced over. Turning off the A/C allowed the ice to melt and then it worked again.
Confirm if this sound like your issue.
My question is - is there a simple temporary quick fix to get the temp blend valve over to cold A/C for the time being until I can go through the dash removal hassle? Thanks for any replies!
Great site btw -
I was able to get the temperature blend door to shift over to blow cold air. I turned the ignition to on, but did not start the car. I closed the front vents, except one. Then I took a shop vac and reversed the hose to the exhaust position to blow air, and I put the hose up to the one open air vent. Then I moved the temperature dial back and forth a bit and finally left it on full cold. Voila, when I started the car, crisp cold air was coming out of the front air con. So the temperature blend door was somehow shifted to the cold position. Not sure long it will stay this way. Hopefully until fall, or until I can remove the dash.
- When you do the trick with the shop vac do you have the selection dial to AC Max, or Vent or Defrost or what?
- Do you have the fan dial turned on when you do this?
Also, a couple details about my symptoms. My AC is blowing non-cold in front and back. However when I hook up a can of R-134 with the dial gauge on it, it reads to the top of the "Full" category before I add any. So I start the engine with the gauge attached and turn the AC onto max and fan on High and the compressor kicks on ever few seconds and the the gauge dials down to the bottom of the "Full" range then slides back to the top of the "Full" range and the compressor cycles again. The gauge never dips into the "Low" range.
This looks to me like I have plenty of R-134 in my system and some other issue is causing my AC to not chill. Maybe I have a vent door issue too?
I am not an expert and don't know much about the AC system. However, given that you are getting the same thing out of the front and back vents suggest it may not be the temperature blend door that is the culprit. There is temp blend door in front and another one in back that work independently. Unlikely they went out at the same time.
Good luck
Thanks
Good luck
I'm willing to try anything at this point, Checked fused and they seem fine too.
Don't know where to look at this ponit and the shop want $170.00 to start to look at it... :confuse: and :sick:
Thanks for any help
Thanks
Also, if I set the vent system to "floor", it disappears. On the higher level setting, it comes back. Sometimes it goes away, other times it does not. Is there some sort of a vent regulator behind the passenger side middle seat? If so, does anyone know what this is, if there is a TSB or is this just one of those weird items no one else has experienced?
Thanks.
Let's keep the discussion right here so as not to deprive our other members of valuable information.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I was only replying to someone else who had reported the problem. You may want to scroll back for some information. Orlando seemed to have a handle on it: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1394ea/23
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
For $25 and a little time you can do it yourself. It is three screws and a clip. Assuming their price for the difficult one is 285, they want 245 for what is basically a 5 minute job on the easy one. If they unplugged it, and set the door then they obviously have enough access without removing the trim.
Getting to the harder one is a much bigger job, and probably not worth all the time for something that isn't broken. The text book way to do it is to remove all the rear quarter panel trim, starting from the liftgate and going forward. I have read that some people have been able to do it by reaching through the change tray and cup holder with some contortion.
Cost $475
new blend door
Charge on both front and back systems
Labor (full dash removal)
It was 105F yesterday. $475 is not a bad price since this would have been summer #4 with no A/C!
CASE CLOSED!!!
Thanks for any help.
Mike