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Comments
1. I have an exhaust system /heat shield ratle when the car is cold. When accelerating and reaching a shift point, I get this rattle that sounds exactly like a heat shiled issue (on a previous non-Hyundai vehicle.) The Dealer has attempted to solve it, made it about 50% better, but still exisits. they want the car overnight to get it cool by being outside, and I'll find some time what I can leave it and see if it can be diagnosed.
2. There is a rattle from the rear of the Santa Fe. I listened and listened trying to pinpont where it is coming from. It was intermittent...... I detemined it was from the folded down rear armrest/cup holder. If you had a cup or bottle in place when folded down, there was no problem. It is only when the cover is closed over the supholders that it rattles. If you fold the entire armrest up, no rattle as well. I think this is livable.
If anyone else has had a heat shield issue (and I'ver reqad other posts about it) and you dealer was able to cure it, please post what they did if you have details. Thanks!
PS.....The Santa Fe is one of the best put together and nicest vehicles I have owned, I am so pleased with it.
Chapman Hyundai here in Phoenix fixed them EVENTUALLY under warranty(except seat cover), but not until I got the run around and "could not duplicate" blowoffs.
Keep persevering, and get them to replace the rear cupholder - the plastic top and catch get warped during the manufacturing process and it is therefore a defect. I checked other S.F's and some were the same , too. Pull down the rear armrest, and the cupholder top would fly open.
Moving the heat shield is just a matter of trial and error.
Second tapping issue is more puzzling - I can be parked, moving , in a straight line or turning at any speed and I will hear a tapping sound that lasts for 5-10 seconds and then it will subside - is this the fan also ? I do recall a similar issue in the past from another member about the fan squeak - any tappers out there?
Try opening the window and see if you can hear the noise from any of the wheels or it's location - that might help narrow it down.
Any suggestions on what to look at?
It started out as an almost imperceptible whine at a certain speed, which over time became louder and louder as the bearing wore down. I also was told it was the brakes, and had them replaced on my Pontiac before it was found.
Thanks
This panel was very slightly warped and the joint was moving at certain combinations of vibration/heat levels (cavitation). It just sounded like it was from inside the dash.
The joints were basically rubbing together - I discovered it by accident when I heard the noise and rested ny hand on the door and felt the joint vibrating. When I pushed the top of the panel in, the noise stopped. It did it on both front doors.
I ended up getting some magic tape, making a small loop and using a penknife blade, pushing it into the joint to create a little sticky wedge between the joint edges. It heklped to stop the transference of the vibration.
The car is so quiet inside you hear every little noise - it drove me craazy trying to figure out what it was.!
Thanks.
When the door is closed, that horizontal joint is about 4 inches long between the hard and soft panels, and between the metal handle and the dash.
I also noticed that if I place a finger between the left side of the dash and the door where they meet,when driving, you can feel the door and dash move against one another. I think it must be the rigid steel body cage which stays put, and the door which moves over bumps.
Thanks
The other factor is the stiff sidewalls on the Bridgestone Dueller Tires, which makes for stiffer recoils over bumps.
Interestingly, the '07 S.Fe. owners got a recall notice about the door label, correcting the maximum weight on the front and rear axles. It was correcting wrong info on the original label. I therefore suspect that the specs were changed at the last minute.
Another question for you or anyone is how do you know when the spare tire is tight. I turned the nut and it seem to clack like the gas cap and it keeps twisting - I assume this is normal. I stop tightening right before it would start another clack noise. Also, if the spare tire is removed and used, does the flat tire get put in the same spot as the spare was, or just placed in the back of the car? If in the back of the car, what gets done with the nut and parts beneath the car/ do they get tighted up or removed? I have not removed the tire yet, but I did try to tighten to eliminate it a source of the suspected suspension noise.
Thanks
Wow!!!
Also - Can the roof rack be adjusted? I'd like to move the cross-bar back farther to try to reduce wind noise but can't figure out how.
Thank you.
As far as the spare wheel release nut, I cannot say. As long as the wheel is tight underneath and doesn't move when fully up , then all is OK.
Thanks again for your input.
My squeaking problem turned out to be a hung up right side break pad. I seems the bottom of the outer pad was stuck. Only the top of the pad was moving. This caused the pad to ware at weird angle. The back plate of the pad was rubbing on the rotor, causing the noise. When the parts were replaced by the dealer, the problem has gone away, and not came back.
Hope this helps.
Any suggestions?
The suspension on this thing sure is noisy when I'm going about 40-45 mph too. I took it to the dealer and they told me that a bolt on the frame had worked its way loose, and it was rattling. The suspension is still really noisy. Is this normal?
None of these noises are that hard to live with, but they do get annoying as I spend so much time in my car. Anyone else have either of these noises/issues?
I had a control arm bolt SNAP on the drivers side - it started to pitch and yaw all over the place before I took it in. I couldn't figure out what had happened - As i was coming off of the freeway, I heard a loud clunk underneath as something hit the underside. It turned out to be the control arm bolt.
It also caused the muffler to detach from the rubber hangar and caused it to bang against the underbody. They fixed it under warranty, and the Tech said the pass. side bolt was also a "little loose".
- he also said the all the wheels were way out of alignment and had to be adjusted. I would insist they checked all the bolts and wheel alignmnet due to the vibration. The suspension sucks on S.Fe's. I still have a squeaking suspenson on my rear pass,side occasionally going slowly over speed bumps.They took it apart twice and still couldn't find the problem.
Check the drivers' door jamb label to see when and where the vehicle was made - if it was Jan. '07 at Alabama then they seem to have more issues. The Korean ones are made much better, also fit and finish wise.
This problem is documented in TSB 08-BD-008-1. The documented fix involves boring holes into the sheet metal around the storage area and adjusting the welding between two panels, essentially prying one panel away from another.
To my relief, the fix has addressed the problem without causing additional issues. I was afraid such an invasive procedure would result in additional noises from the rear of the vehicle.
Does any one have any idea what it could be or have you experienced the same situation?