xwesx - Thanks for the info. & feedback...I was thinking I would need to disable that after reading some other posts... some people were talking about removing a fuse or two to achieve it.
While driving along, the radio on my 2009 Outback wagon will suddenly pump out full-volume static. (It is ear-splitting.) The only way to get it to stop is to shut off the engine and restart. Today it happened while the radio wasn't even on to begin with. I am wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem. I am going to bring into the dealer, but am worried that since it is not something that can be reproduced on demand, that they won't find it. And meanwhile, it is so loud, it is really a safety issue. thanks!
my legacy wagon's radio sometimes spontaneously changes volume. however, i believe its a problem with the radio buttons themselves (sony), as they dont work properly.
or, could possibly be radio signals affecting the wireless remote control that came with the system??
The radio (HK) in my wagon did not come with a remote, so I think we have different problems. But I would suspect that other things on the same radio frequency could affect your radio.
Help My running lights and low beams will not work. How are they connected to the hand brake? Ever since I used the hand brake the lights will not work. High beams work fine. Anybody have this problem?
Just purchased a great condition 97 Legacy Outback that was originally sold in Canada. The speedometer and odometer are calibrated for kilometers. I'm most concerned about the odometer, in that when it comes time to sell down the road, it looks like it has more miles than it really does.
Is it possible to modify these 2 instruments? If so how and how much am I looking at? Thanks.
It probably could be done, but would require major dash surgery and a replacement speedo/odometer head. Hardly worth the time, effort and expense on a 13 year old car. When it comes time to sell, as a 15 year old or more car (??), it will probably be a private sale anyhow. It says KPH right on the unit, and anyone who looks at it will understand if you do the translation to MPH for them.
Radio display and ac display flashes on and off. Caught it on video. Dealer said it was the radio. The radio is fine it does not cut out. Had a screeching in the am am band. There was a problem with earlier models and ABS module that was not suppressed porperly. is up. There is a TSB for this. As long as you report the problem most dealers are good about fixing after warrenty.
Did your dealer replace the radio/A/C unit because of this problem? Mine has gone from flashing to no longer displaying anything. I have steering wheel controls for the radio, but cannot control the temperature of the vehicle. I have called a dealer (closest one is 3 hours away) to research this before I go in, but want to make sure I get a good answer from them. Thanks
Dealer replaced radio unit becauae i kept loosing climate control a readio display. Has not happened since radio was replaced.. They weren,t a hundred percent sure the problem, the mechanic i talked to seemed okay. They got licky with radio. My temoeture still work. It was the illumination circuit. Radio and climate share same power supply and ground. The illumination should have nothing to do with the functionality of the the radio or climate. I hope they can fix it. Make sure you take out any cd you have if you can. They can mail them to you if you can't retrieve yhe cds. Good luck
We also had this ACC-message flashing in the driving computer of the Legacy 2004. The Subaru garage had no idea what it was. But recently we prepared the car for selling it and that solved the problem. What we did was removing the (unoffical) cellphone loader. We also removed this device that can send radio waves from an MP3 player to the car radio. Are theory is that one of these devices had some electrical short circuit that would only appear when the car was in use. Therefore the car battery would not be emptied when the car was not un use. The last 2 weeks after removing these devices, we never got the message again. To those of you who get this ACC message: please try my theory and confirm it.
Our radio quit working and we had an ACC error code on the display. Nothing was listed in the book for this code and none of the dealers could give us an answer. We tried changing the fuse even though it wasn't blown. It seems to have worked. The ACC went away and the radio and display started working again.
The dome light doesn't light when the doors open. I pop off the cover, and then it works. It keeps working after I pop the cover back on a couple of times and then stops again. The bulb is ok. The electronics seem ok. But something is intermittent somewhere. If I wiggle or otherwise try to encourage the dome light, it still won't start working. I have to pop off the cover and then it will work a little while. Aaarrgh!! Anyone ever see this before?
It may be a bad connection, or it may be a broken bulb filament that reconnects with a jar (such as popping off the dome cover). As a cheap first option, replace the bulb if you have not yet done so and see if the problem persists.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Did you get this problem fixed? I have a 2009 Legacy that is doing the exact same thing. It is so frustrating. I just had the audio panel replaced but it is still doing it. Thanks.
I have a 99 forester with 80,000 miles. Turning the any signal light on results in all 4 lights flashing and th 4 way flasher lighting up. In the connector at the right side of the dash, below glove box, the light green/black wire and the red/green wire seem to be shorted. I cannot find where they go so that I can replace them. I have all the Schematics but cannot find the wires anywhere. Ed
Three days ago I was driving in the rain in the highway, suddenly the speedometer and rpm dial needles started going crazy, up and down, and the wipers were going slower than normal. The abs light and others in the dashboard came on. Although the car never lost power completely, we decided to tow it home (30 miles), to avoid further damage to the car, and left it at my trusted mechanic. The mechanic charged the battery and checked it and the alternator. All was fine. He says he cannot figure out what caused the battery to lose power and what could be wrong. The RPM & speedometer went crazy again yesterday. We had to leave the car in a parking garage. What could this be? Is my dear, dear car lost forever?
Not sure, but I recall a discussion about a single point ground, to solve issues like that. It was common enough that people came to use the acronym, SPG, by itself.
Google it and see what you can find, I'm sure you'll get plenty of hits.
I would go looking for a short circuit to earth in the wiring loom in the steering column or under the dashboard, anywhere that the loom passes over bare metal. The described behaviour sounds like a live wire is touching earth, affecting ancillaries. It would not change behaviour of engine unless you managed to fry the computer
The most likely point is probably the wiring to wiper controls as you were using these at the time. After that, look to the ignition switch, light controls, horn and cruise control, all of which are mounted where cables need to flex. If nothing obvious there, move onto cables passing through metal brackets near fuse block.
As a last resort, try the wiring for trailer plugs which are often fitted after market and often not insulated properly. Similarly if there are any wired after market accessories, look at the insulation on clips, and ensure that the attached wire has been terminated and insulated.
I solved the problem. I had a short in the main wire that goes to the brake lights. The fuse did not blow, it melted (never buy fuses from Harbor Freight). The wire got so hot that it melted through to the signal and other lights. I had to trace it all the way to the engine compartment and tape all the exposed connections. The original problem was that the wires that go from the body into the rear hatch had failed from fatigue. (poor wire in that is was just a few strands of heavy wire.
I would start by looking at where the wires go from the Car body into the rear cargo door. These stranded wires are of poor quality in that they consist of a small number of strands of large gauge wire rather than a large number of smaller strands) This causes them to break and eventually even the vinyl covering fails. When two or more wires make contact they do all kinds of strange things. Before I discovered this, my park lights would come on for no reason, dash lights went off when I stepped on the brake, speedometer pinned at high and ABS brake lights came on randomly. The most common problem is the large white brake light wire can get so hot it melts the vinyl off of the smaller wires. They make contact turning things on and off. Fortunately non of them are ground wires so the engine should never stop. If you replace fuses make sure they are quality fuses. I had used fuses from Harbor Freight and one melted, the two fuse contacts came together and all hell broke loose. I now test fuses by taking one from the package and put more and more current through it until it fails. If the plastic softens don't use that brand of fuse. Just shorting the fuse across a battery will not work as current is so high that fuse fails instantly and plastiuc does not have time to heat up.
This sounds like a job for Mr. Peabody and the "Wayback Machine"!! OK, it helps if you were a child of the '60's and know what that even means.
Does this sound familiar?
If you encounter a customer complaint of the speedometer needle jumping, dash warning light(s) on/glowing dimly, or an engine driveability problem, etc., check the alternator.
It is from a 2003 EndWrench article, and was also the topic of a TSB covering 2000-2002 models. Alternator failure results in a depleted battery, slow running wipers and dim lights, the electronic instrument cluster screwing up, ABS system operation issues, etc. It is an intermittent problem, and most often happens in damp weather. Probably related to insulation breakdown. You may need to replace the alternator.
I have a 2004 outback with an after market stereo. The stereo worked for over a year. My car was bumped in the driver side front fender and shortly after that the stereo, the dome light and the lights between the visors won't come on.
The fuse box near the coin holder has power to all slots. I even replaced fuses that looked fine. Any idea what has happened?
I just installed a new passenger side headlight assembly in my 2000 Legacy. When I turned the turn signal on, the turn signal indicator on the dash board went dim then I had no response from my turn signal switch on the column in any direction. I replaced a blown hazzard relay fuse and now all the correct bulbs light up when the hazzard is on, but still no response from the turn signal switch. Also, now, my son noted that the spedometer and odometer are not working either.??? I found that the turn signal socket on my new headlamp assembly was faulty. What could have happen to my turn signals??
Unfortunately it sounds like 'faulty' as in short circuit in the socket assembly. You drew excessive current, and took out a fuse. But it sounds like something else fried before the fuse opened. If I get a chance I'll take a look at some wiring diagrams for you.
Thanks for responding but it was a blown fuse in the alternator circuit. Go figure! I didnt have a wiring diagram so I had to tow it to my mechanic. It cost more to tow than to fix !! By the way.. Is there a website out there where I could get wiring diagrams for all my cars. I found one where they charge $4.00 but Im not sure if they are complete diagrams. Are they any FREE website out there ??
Some time back you could get .pdf versions on CD of the factory service manuals from some of the larger e-bay automotive guys. That's how I got mine. Something like $20-$25, but well worth it.
Ignition starts up right away, so it's not the battery, but clock resets to 1:00 and tach to 0. When I turn raidio/cd on, panel lights flash a few times, then none of the radio/cd buttons work. When remote is used to lock car doors, car beeps 3 times but works.
Next day everything is fine and I lock car with remote without any beeping, but after a few hours the car starts beeping about once every 2 seconds until I turned the remote lock off. Car still starts just fine, but radio/cd no longer works and clock/tach always reset to 0. Any idea?
I wonder if one of the grounds is bad and there's a short somewhere? I remember a long thread for "single point ground" that went around for a while and was a popular fix/mod.
Driving home yesterday, I noticed when I turned the turn signal on the tachometer, speedometer, dash lights all turned off while driving. The problem proceeded to get worse with the addition of all those systems failing when I braked. As I neared home, my turn signal became more frequent, the radio had completely shut down and as I pulled into the driveway my horn began to sound as if the alarm were going off. The battery eventually died, we jumped it and it proceeded to die again. What does this mean? Is it the alternator or the battery? I saw people describing similar issues with the alternator, should I have it towed? Thanks.
Exact same problem last night. I was driving home and I noticed the issue. The battery ended up dying and after jumping it, it died again. I called the tow truck this morning, I think it's the battery in my case, but who knows.
If it died while you were driving, it is either your alternator or a connector to the alternator. Most likely, it's the alternator.
They do have a lifespan. The one on my '96 Outback started getting weak at around 130,000 miles. I kept it in there until around 175,000, but it wouldn't produce enough current to charge the car at idle if I had the headlights on.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Hello everyone. My sons 1990 legacy 2.2L has a problem with the warning lights. The battery, brake, stop lamp, at oil temp lamps stay on whether the car is running or not. They go out when the key is turned all the way off. When he pulls the emergency brake, that lamp gets brighter and gets dimmer when released. I checked the electrical connections in the engine compartment and they seem fine. I am really not sure where to look.
Check the alternator. My 2001 OB once had the brake light come on during a drive home. Then once the battery was about shot, just about every light came on at once. 30 seconds latter... no more and I coasted to a stop. Interesting thing was that the battery light wasn't the light to come on first, and didn't come on until the battery was basically dead.
Thanks a lot for the tip. I did check the alternator and that was the problem. Replaced it and all is OK now. Just seems a little weird that erroneous trouble lights appear when the alternator is bad. I would expect just an "ALT" light instead of all the other stuff that showed up.
Hi I just got a 1998 Subaru Legacy wagon. As I would be driving everything is ok until I slow down and stop the lights (all of them) go dim and there is a lot of noise in the radio. When the car is sitting running you can see and hear the car and light revving up and down. The car starts and drives fine. :surprise:
Sounds like a failing alternator or a dead or soon to die battery OR very corroded or loose connections OR a bad engine-to-frame ground cable. You should do some exploring on loose wires and corroded cables, then make sure your battery is fully charged and then test the alternator output with a volt meter across the battery cables.
If the battery in the car is over 5 years old, it's tired.
I also wonder if the previous owner installed an under-drive pulley?
It was a common mod that let the engine rev a little more freely, but it turns the alternator more slowly and one side effect was dimming lights at idle.
Comments
I am going to bring into the dealer, but am worried that since it is not something that can be reproduced on demand, that they won't find it. And meanwhile, it is so loud, it is really a safety issue.
thanks!
my legacy wagon's radio sometimes spontaneously changes volume. however, i believe its a problem with the radio buttons themselves (sony), as they dont work properly.
or, could possibly be radio signals affecting the wireless remote control that came with the system??
maggie
Is it possible to modify these 2 instruments? If so how and how much am I looking at? Thanks.
Are theory is that one of these devices had some electrical short circuit that would only appear when the car was in use. Therefore the car battery would not be emptied when the car was not un use. The last 2 weeks after removing these devices, we never got the message again. To those of you who get this ACC message: please try my theory and confirm it.
Thanks.
Ed
Google it and see what you can find, I'm sure you'll get plenty of hits.
I would go looking for a short circuit to earth in the wiring loom in the steering column or under the dashboard, anywhere that the loom passes over bare metal. The described behaviour sounds like a live wire is touching earth, affecting ancillaries. It would not change behaviour of engine unless you managed to fry the computer
The most likely point is probably the wiring to wiper controls as you were using these at the time. After that, look to the ignition switch, light controls, horn and cruise control, all of which are mounted where cables need to flex. If nothing obvious there, move onto cables passing through metal brackets near fuse block.
As a last resort, try the wiring for trailer plugs which are often fitted after market and often not insulated properly. Similarly if there are any wired after market accessories, look at the insulation on clips, and ensure that the attached wire has been terminated and insulated.
Cheers
Graham
Ed
Does this sound familiar?
If you encounter a customer complaint
of the speedometer needle jumping, dash
warning light(s) on/glowing dimly, or an
engine driveability problem, etc., check
the alternator.
It is from a 2003 EndWrench article, and was also the topic of a TSB covering 2000-2002 models. Alternator failure results in a depleted battery, slow running wipers and dim lights, the electronic instrument cluster screwing up, ABS system operation issues, etc. It is an intermittent problem, and most often happens in damp weather. Probably related to insulation breakdown. You may need to replace the alternator.
I have a 2004 outback with an after market stereo. The stereo worked for over a year. My car was bumped in the driver side front fender and shortly after that the stereo, the dome light and the lights between the visors won't come on.
The fuse box near the coin holder has power to all slots. I even replaced fuses that looked fine. Any idea what has happened?
Thank you.
I am still searching for a valid destination that can acutally provide a schematic. May have to go to the dealer or buy a repair manual.
Next day everything is fine and I lock car with remote without any beeping, but after a few hours the car starts beeping about once every 2 seconds until I turned the remote lock off. Car still starts just fine, but radio/cd no longer works and clock/tach always reset to 0. Any idea?
They do have a lifespan. The one on my '96 Outback started getting weak at around 130,000 miles. I kept it in there until around 175,000, but it wouldn't produce enough current to charge the car at idle if I had the headlights on.
I just bought a 2003 Outback with this same problem. Did you find a solution?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks again.
If the battery in the car is over 5 years old, it's tired.
It was a common mod that let the engine rev a little more freely, but it turns the alternator more slowly and one side effect was dimming lights at idle.
I thought they were a bit crazy.