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Subaru Outback/Legacy Electronic & Lighting Problems

24

Comments

  • yuyaxyuyax Member Posts: 11
    UPDATE

    I worked on my car on Sat. The sound was coming from the power window circuit breaker which is located under the dash, next to the steering column.

    It is a little white rectangular tab like box with two wires going to it. The source of the sound was the circuit breaker tripping due to some electrical overload. The breaker was doing its job.

    Every now and then, the circuit breaker will not click/clack and electrical power was normal and the windows became operational.

    I took the car back to the dealer in Northern VA on Monday so they could complete a warranty repair/replacement on the stereo. I left them a detailed note of my findings. According to them, once the radio was re-installed, the problem went away. Very interesting.

    So far, so good but I wonder, why re-connecting the radio solved the problem?
  • ohzee00ohzee00 Member Posts: 3
    My Outback rear driving lights fail to turn on. The front turn on fine, turn signals, brakes, flashers, headlights all work, but the rear driving lights do not turn on.

    I am wondering if there is some module in the rear somewhere which regulates those lights ? I for the life of me can not figure out what it is, fuses all check out fine.

    Any help or pointers would be VERY much appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Are your front marker lights (The Yellow Ones) on?

    -mike
  • smcinroxsmcinrox Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me the exact location of the ECU in a 96 Legacy L. My ABS light came on and I have read that I may be able to get a code from the blinking LED sequense on the ECU. Any help on this would be appreciated.
  • sunshine24sunshine24 Member Posts: 3
    hi; go to "www.legacy central.org" click on "the library" under the heading "tech doc" click on "ecu error code instruction and glossary" i dont think you have to remove the ecu yet , but if you want to know, they are mostly located under the carpet of the front passenger side, it is like if the passenger is sitting with the feet out streched on the slanted section going to the fire wall the would be over the ecu, you have to remove the mat and lift up the carpeting.
  • ohzee00ohzee00 Member Posts: 3
    Yes they are Mike. Any info would be very much appreciated.
  • ohzee00ohzee00 Member Posts: 3
    You ever figure this out ? I have a similar issue.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, I'm stumped, other than a bad fuse to the rear possibly.

    -mike
  • hirschberghirschberg Member Posts: 3
    I'm trying to fix what seems to be a problem on the 1997 legacy also. (there was a recall issued) the hazard switch can become stuck resulting in the turn signal becoming inoperable. now i pried the button out with a key. and no longer have turn signals. because the blinkers still actually work, i believe i did not short out the turn signal circuit, which is slaved to the hazard switch. so did i just push a contact off and need to reconnect it?
  • hirschberghirschberg Member Posts: 3
    my biggest concern here is that I could have damaged the circuit between the hazard switch and the turn signal switch, or shorted one or the other out, however I highly doubt this, and if anyone could confirm my belief it would help isolate the problem to perhaps, a loose switch.

    A. The hazard switch works, and i can push it in and out now. When pushed, it acts normally, with blinking lights outside and on the dash panel. So it isn't my flasher fuse, all fuses that i looked at checked out.

    B. I was messing around with the hazard switch using a brass key, my worst-case thinking says that pushing around this conductor in there somehow shorted the circuit, but then, wouldnt the blinkers not work at all including the hazard lights? I cannot find any fuses that seem to have anything wrong. I just want to get under the dash and see if there is a connection loose.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. It's particularly annoying because this happened hours after I drove the vehicle off the lot.
  • hirschberghirschberg Member Posts: 3
    Had a stuck hazard light switch, which i pried on a bit until it popped back out and the hazard lights turned off. But after this, my turn signal switch didnt work.

    Ok, my understanding here is that in the 98 Legacy, the turn signal switch is governed by the circuit first going through the Hazard Switch. I read that there was a recall on the 97 Legacy where, if pressed in, and the Hazard switch got stuck, it could render the turn signal inoperable. First item of elimination, which I highly doubt; did I damage the circuit to the turn signal switch? I doubt this, because the hazard button still works, and the blinkers in the dash, and the lights outside function normally.

    To my knowledge from what I looked at, all the fuses are OK. If there were an electrical overload on the flasher, wouldnt it have popped the fuse and prevented electrical damage? This is what I assume. I'm not too knowledgeable about later model electrical issues in any vehicle.

    My assumption is this:
    that by prying around with my key to unstick the hazard switch, I pushed the contact for the turn signal off of the housing, or something. I want to eliminate the problem quickly, because I'd hate to have my wife driving around without turn signals. Anyone who can help please email me at [email protected]...

    thanks.
  • jhr788jhr788 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Subaru outback. Recently I was leaving work after sun set and noticed that my low beams don't work... High, fog, turn and hazard all work. I was thinking that it was the bulbs, but I have never heard of both burning out at the same time. Any other Ideas? Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My bulbs both burned out within a week of each other, and they were 9 years old. It happens.
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    The other day the mirror developed a bubble 1.5 high x 2.5 wide in the upper edge of the windshield mirror that changes shape with time. The car was in for service and the dealer said to replace it $215 installed. Found some web stores (Subie parts) to buy it for $135 + shipping ~ $10 - total $145.
    Questions:
    1) Is it fixable some way?
    2) If the replacement is the only way are there instructions to install it? Is it a relatively simple task or is it worth $45 to have them do it? I would think the cables from the original could be used but...
    Thank you in advance.
    If this is posted on the wrong forum, I would appreciate some feedback from the host of this forum.
    Bob
  • ortscortsc Member Posts: 2
    Hi jhr788,
    What was the resolution for your low beams not working? I have the same problem - they flicked on at startup yesterday morning, then both headlights went out at the same time. All other lights work, fuses look OK. I really don't want to take it into the dealer for something that must be minor!
    Thanks in advance, tsc
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    I can not recall posting anything on a headlight problem. Please reply with a cut and paste of the problem you imply I posted to refresh my memory, having a senior moment on this problem.
  • ortscortsc Member Posts: 2
    Hi jhr788,
    What was the resolution for your low beams not working? I have the same problem - they flicked on at startup yesterday morning, then both headlights went out at the same time. All other lights work, fuses look OK. I really don't want to take it into the dealer for something that must be minor!
    Thanks in advance, tsc
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------
    Original post: #73 of 77 Headlight problems by jhr788 Jun 19, 2008 (11:15 am)
    I have a Subaru outback. Recently I was leaving work after sun set and noticed that my low beams don't work... High, fog, turn and hazard all work. I was thinking that it was the bulbs, but I have never heard of both burning out at the same time. Any other Ideas? Thanks
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    For some reason I (reblack jr) am getting notifications that should go to jhr788. I am not jhr788.
    Bye
  • kprzkkprzk Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Outback LL Bean edition and the Battery is dead after leaving the car parked for two days or more, I have taken to Subaru and they are stumped, any thoughts. I have replaced the battery already and it still persists.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, maybe a short?

    They need to trace what's draining the battery. Something has to be drawing power. Can't they trace it with tools the dealer has?
  • kprzkkprzk Member Posts: 3
    They did that and could find nothing.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did they test the alternator also? I doubt it's the battery itself.
  • kprzkkprzk Member Posts: 3
    they said the alternator checked out fine, I think I will take back in and have it rechecked.
  • mtremainmtremain Member Posts: 1
    I had the same thing happen to me night before last. Did you figure it out? I thought fuses but those look fine... then bulbs but weird that it would happen at same time plus it appears that the high beams and low beams are on same bulb so it seemed odd that one would work.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    any aftermarket itesm in the car? (CB, Stereo, GPS, etc?) That might be drawing power overnight.

    They can see what's drawing down the power (or you can) by pulling the fuses and only connect 2 or 3 fuses per night and narrow down which circuit is pulling the juice.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • chriswansonchriswanson Member Posts: 13
    Hi,

    I have this situation:

    For a while, ABS light intermittant, not sure why.

    Recently the fuse for the rear running lights blew, not sure why.

    After fixing that (and putting on two new belts), the Check Engine light came on (I believe not from loose gas cap). Starting around the same time: when brakes are applied the dashboard lights go to about half power, running/parking lights also dim, and I hear a clicking sound from the AT shifter when in park. This clicking sound goes away if I turn on the parking lights (switch on top of steering column).

    When the car is in drive, the clicking goes away, but dash / parking lights still dim.

    Everything else working OK at this point, and there is no history of other electrical problems.

    Any theories or diagnoses are appreciated. I have not taken the car in to the dealer yet.

    thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    While it would be difficult to diagnose without a physical inspection, it sounds like you have an electrical short. Most likely, something like that would be caused by a wire exposed by something rubbing through the sheathing somewhere or dirty/wet/loose connectors.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • chriswansonchriswanson Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the reply..

    Got it checked out for 120 dollars...

    Yup, rear lamp socket had a problem that melted the contacts together, and this was causing the symptoms somehow. Not sure why the fuse didnt go first.

    Check engine light was related to this short.
  • gprattgpratt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 subaru outback which the lighting on the climate control panel will not light up and sometimes the speedometer stops working along with it losing power. It seems to fix itself with exception to the climate control lighting..
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The fact that it's intermittent has me thinking it's a loose wiring connection, perhaps even a cracked solter connection. That happened to the clock in my 98 Forester, and the clock light came in and out.

    The trick is tracing it.
  • scampy1scampy1 Member Posts: 4
    I've had my 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon for 4 years and the automatic shift panel has never been illuminated at night except for once a few nights ago. I looked down and it was lit up. Hasn't lit up since. It was nice to see the D, R, N and would like to see them again at night.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    If there was one complaint I had about my '96 Outback, which seems to hold true for that generation (through 99), is that electrical gremlins are quite prevalent in them, from intermittently working door locks to quick-to-burn-out bulbs to more serious issues. You can tear your hair out trying to fix it or just live with it, but if you try to fix it, I recommend a good, short hair cut before you start. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lkelly4lkelly4 Member Posts: 3
  • lkelly4lkelly4 Member Posts: 3
    Purchased the car a year ago and have replaced the alt. and 3 batteries. Took it to the Subaru dealership and they can't find what's wrong. The car will run for up to 3 months after the last battery was replaced. The car sat for 3 days, went out to leave for work and it's dead. The gauges won't even show on the console. It's been to 3 different mechanics, they suggested to not jump start the car but have it towed to the dealership so they can see what's wrong. Did that...twice and still can't find it. Anyone else have any problems like this?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, how about a battery tender? May be worth the investment.

    Something is draining it dangerously low and affecting battery life.
  • lcoombs738lcoombs738 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 Outback has something draining the battery when it sits. About 4 months ago I was having weird electrical issues with the speedometer and the odometer was flashing an SP ER message and the time/temp display would flash "ACC" then change to Err. The dealer replaced the battery. The ACC flashing was still there but the car seemed to function fine. Now the battery is draining when it sits and the car needs to be jumped after sitting a while or if driven for only a short trip. The dealer now says they don't know what the problem is. I do have an after market remote start but that has been in the car for more than 2 years.

    Does anyone know what the "ACC, Err" flashing display means. The dealer says they don't which I find disconcerting.
  • lkelly4lkelly4 Member Posts: 3
    I would love to know if you have any replies to this question. I have a 2004 Outback with similiar problems when it sits for more than a day, the battery is drained. It's been to 2 dealerships and 3 other mechanic, one who specializes in electrical problems and no one can find the problem. I've researched tech docs from Subaru and can't find anything either.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    It sounds to me like you have a short somewhere. SP ER means the speed sensor is either not working or is providing bogus input. I suspect that the display is probably having trouble as well due to the MPG readout, etc., that is tied in to the speed sensor circuit.

    It might be useful to check the wiring on the aftermarket remote start to ensure that there are no loose/corroded connections. Just because it worked properly to start, does not mean something has not come loose since then.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • starbirdstarbird Member Posts: 38
    Did you every get an answer to your problem, as I just bought a 2007 wagon, it passed the safety inspection, then in the rain the front left headlight stopped working.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Low beam , high beam or both?

    Low beam out may be just a bulb problem..daylight running lights use up filaments fairly fast. I just had to replace one on my 2005 3.0R. Replacing both left and right at the same time (if the bulb is the problem) is a good idea.
  • jfpb1965jfpb1965 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday when I was driving in the rain, I noticed my wipers were going slower than normal. Thoughout the drive, my radio would turn off, the speedometer and tachometer stopped working, the abs light came on and the wipers slowed down even more; but the car never lost power. After about 1-3 minutes, the car would go back to normal and about 5 minutes later would start the cycle again. This went on for the entire drive (30 miles).

    Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd check your battery/alternator charging system for openers. Get that out of the way before you plunge into electrical diagnosis.
  • chriswansonchriswanson Member Posts: 13
    in my case a brake light had shorted and melted the light bulb itself, somehow. maybe check the bulb and socket for damage? short may be due to water splashing up.
  • lg05legacylg05legacy Member Posts: 13
    I'm thinking about installing an after-market HID kit in my 2005 Legacy.

    The question I have is regarding the Daytime Running Lights... Since the DRL's and low-beam bulbs seem to be the same, does anyone know if issues arise when replacing the stock halogen bulbs with an HID kit?

    This is the link to the site with the kit I'm thinking of purchasingHID Kit

    The kit is the Apexcone 55W with H7 6000K bulbs

    Thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Not sure if they changed it at some point, but I think all the newer Subaru vehicles I've owned ('07, '08, '10) use the high-beams as the DRLs, with a reduced current so they are very dim. Are you sure that the low beam is being used as the DRL on your '05?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lg05legacylg05legacy Member Posts: 13
    I'm not 100% sure the DRL's are the same bulb as the lows, however my lows have a projector lens and that's what's lit when the DRL's are on...Highs are the standard mirror config. (for lack of a better term)
  • jmac20jmac20 Member Posts: 1
    I have just spent $1100 to repair my security system after my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT, for no apparent reason, failed to start. According to Centaur Subaru, the battery was fine, but security system decided to immobilize the engine. (I live in the country, and absolutely no one attempted to steal the car). This appears to be a design/electrical fault -- not a general wear issue. I would like to know how common this is. I find it rather ironic that the security feature intended to protect the owner, actually prevented the owner from driving their car.
    This car was just in for its 96,000km servicing and the engine light/cruise control was repaired – apparently this was a common issue. Any links?
  • lg05legacylg05legacy Member Posts: 13
    Do you know if this a common issue for all 05 legacy's, or just the GT models?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    immobilizer issues plague owners of many different types of cars. It's not an uncommon grievance. I think I see 1 or 2 complaints like this every day in our Answers Department.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Okay, then yes, it does use the low beam and I am not sure of the answer to your question. If I were in your situation, I would likely look to disable the DRL feature as, perhaps, the easiest solution.

    They must have changed the configuration to the high beam at some point.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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