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however my sunroof, rear defog and a/c will not work at all either
what could problem be
i checked all fuses and relays
paul
plkatz@yahoo.com
Can you verify that your taillights do NOT work either, thanks.
I'm suspecting that your Alt-H 100 Amp fuse is bad. It's up in the engine compartment, inside front left driver side fender wall. May also be an ignition switch, there's two circuits that go thru that switch. One of them is fed by the 100Amp fuse.
if they will fix it. even though your lack of preventative maintenance probably contributed towards problem then let them fix it
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
had a 1986 that used to smoke for a while at start up
owever that one was severly neglected before i bought
maybe they do use substandard material in their valve seals on some or all models
sorry for the negative speculation, paul
Edit.....actually in looking at the schematics, this might vary depending upon which engine you have, which transmission you have, and whether it is a california vehicle or not. Can you indicate what you have...thanks.
The primary (which is controlled by the ECM) are on pin 3&6.
The secondarys (which when primary solenoid is powered and contact is made) are on pins 1&2, and provides power to the fuel pump.
Good luck.
There are two pieces to it, the 'primary' side, and the 'secondary' side. The 'primary' side is the trigger, or in an analogy a very small child's finger on a light switch. The child can walk up to a light switch, and flip the switch on. Inside the relay is an electromagnetic coil. When it is energized with electricity, it creates a magnetic field, and that magnetic field pulls down a lever. In this case in the car, the trigger is controlled by the engine computer. The computer powers the primary side of the relay. Putting 13v power onto pins 3&6, will cause the coil to energize, and pull down the lever.
On the 'secondary' side, when the lever pulls down it pulls two higher amperage contacts together. Those contacts are connected to pins 1&2. When the relay primary is un-energized, you should find infinite resistance between these two pins. When the relay is energized, you should find a short between these two pins.
So a child walks up to a switch, and with very little pressure is able to turn on a switch and power up anything that is connected to the swtich.
When a relay fails, it fails in a couple of different ways with different symptoms
- First problem could be that the primary solenoid wire burns, and it doesn't create a magnetic field anymore. The symptom is that the relay doesn't turn anything on (the childs finger is broke)
- Second problem is that the secondary relay points burn/fuse together (like they weld together), and the fuel pump never turns off, Doesn't matter what happens on the primary side either on or off, the secondary is always shorted and turned on.
- Thrid problem is that the secondary relay points burn and deform, and instead of providing a dead short (allowing full power to flow thru the points), it provides a high resistance. This high resistance ends up dropping voltage across the points as there is current flow (V=iR) V-voltage, i-current, R-resistance.
- Fourth problem that occurs much less often, is that there is a physical bind in the lever moving, causing sporadic operation.
I re-read your last post. Are you indicating you are getting fuel pump turning on and working when the key is in the 'start' position, but not on in the 'run' position?
When I change my own oil the dipstick comes out at a different place each time. The dipstick has to be spun in order to go in all the way, and I am not getting a consistent reading. I've been using 4 qts but don't know how much oil I should be putting in.
Thanks!
I'd suggest checking to make sure your ignition switch is working. There are two separate circuits that go thru the ignition switch. The first is fed from the 40Amp fuse called AM1, which then goes to one of the circuits in the ignition switch. Make sure that fuse is good. The output of the ignition switch then feeds the 7.5Amp IGN fuse, which then feeds the distributor igniter and ECM. Make sure the 7.5A IGN fuse is good.
The second circuit is fed from a 30Amp fuse calle AM2. Check to make sure that fuse is good, and you can verify this circuit by turning on the windshield wipers....while the switch is in the 'ignition' (or ON) position. AM2 to the 2nd circuit thru the ignition switch, then to a couple fuses including the 20Amp Wiper fuse, then to the wiper switch and motor.
Once the ignition switch goes from the 'start' position to the 'ignition' position, control of that COR relay is given to the computer. There is a 2nd primary winding in that relay, which is turned on by the computer. The winding is connected between pin 2 (which has the +voltage on it), and pin 4 (which is connected to the computer). When the computer pulls pin4 to ground, this second winding should hold the relay engaged.
I'm suspecting that this '2nd' primary winding in your relay is defective. To test this relay, wire it up on the bench in the following manner.
- permanently connect pin 2 and pin 3 to a 13 volt fused battery.
- permanently connect your digital voltmeter (DVM) to pin 1, with the other lead of your DVM to battery ground. It should be zero because the relay is not energized.
- Now temporarily attach a ground wire from the -battery to pin 5. This is the primary coil controlled by the starter circuitry. When you do this, you should hear the relay click and your digital voltmeter (which is still on pin 1 )should now read 13volts. Disconnect the ground wire on pin 5, and the DVM should go back to zero volts. I believe this should check out okay, because of how you said your fuel pump was turning on when in the start position.
- Now temporarily attach a ground wire from -battery to pin 4. If the relay clicks again and the DVM reads 13v, the relay is good....and is NOT your problem.
- I suspect however, that the above won't energize the relay. But do one more test. Permanently apply a ground wire to -battery and pin 4. Now temporarily also ground pin # 5, by connecting to -battery. Does the DVM go to 13 and stay there when you disconnect pin5 (while still maintaining the ground on pin4)??
If this testing confirms that this relay is bad, go buy a replacement.
If this relay checks out okay, then I believe either your computer is bad, or some sensor that feeds the computer is bad (causing the computer to want to turn off the fuel pump). You'd need to go get a 'hands on' second opinion on this. The relay is turning on via the starter control, and the fuel pump works. When it's supposed to be then turned on and held engaged by the computer, it isn't being turned on.
Picture of Schematic
Let me know what your testing finds, and good luck!
Since you have a non Californial manual transmission, that relay has two windings on the primary coil. One winding is energized by the starter circuit (+ on pin 3, - on pin 6) which then connects the secondary points together and turns on the fuel pump (+ on pin 2, fuel pump on pin 1). You have confirmed that piece of the circuit is working.
Once the ignition switch goes from the 'start' position to the 'ignition' position, control of that COR relay is given to the computer. There is a 2nd primary winding in that relay, which is turned on by the computer. The winding is connected between pin 2 (which has the +voltage on it), and pin 4 (which is connected to the computer). When the computer pulls pin4 to ground, this second winding should hold the relay engaged.
I'm suspecting that this '2nd' primary winding in your relay is defective. To test this relay, wire it up on the bench in the following manner.
- permanently connect pin 2 and pin 3 to a 13 volt fused battery.
- permanently connect your digital voltmeter (DVM) to pin 1, with the other lead of your DVM to battery ground. It should be zero because the relay is not energized.
- Now temporarily attach a ground wire from the -battery to pin
56. This is the primary coil controlled by the starter circuitry. When you do this, you should hear the relay click and your digital voltmeter (which is still on pin 1 )should now read 13volts. Disconnect the ground wire on pin56, and the DVM should go back to zero volts. I believe this should check out okay, because of how you said your fuel pump was turning on when in the start position.- Now temporarily attach a ground wire from -battery to pin 4. If the relay clicks again and the DVM reads 13v, the relay is good....and is NOT your problem.
- I suspect however, that the above won't energize the relay. But do one more test. Permanently apply a ground wire to -battery and pin 4. Now temporarily also ground pin #
56, by connecting to -battery. Does the DVM go to 13 and stay there when you disconnect pin56 (while still maintaining the ground on pin4)??If this testing confirms that this relay is bad, go buy a replacement.
If this relay checks out okay, then I believe either your computer is bad, or some sensor that feeds the computer is bad (causing the computer to want to turn off the fuel pump). You'd need to go get a 'hands on' second opinion on this. The relay is turning on via the starter control, and the fuel pump works. When it's supposed to be then turned on and held engaged by the computer, it isn't being turned on.
Correct, in testing the relay you should have connected both pin 2 and pin 3 to the positive side of the battery. Retest the relay by the last test on previous post. It might be a little confusing, but let me explain what is probably happening within the relay. I don't know for sure that this relay is built this way as I suspect, I would need to open up the relay and do some internal testing to verify.
The magnetic field created by the solenoid that is required to initially trigger the relay to shut, is significantly larger than the magnetic field required to keep the relay held shut. Relay windings can get warm when the current is going thru the solenoid. The way Toyota is using that relay, it has to be on the whole time you are driving, which can be hours at a time. I'm suspecting that the second primary winding (as shown by the squiggly line from pin 2 to pin 4 on the schematic), is only powerful enough to 'hold' the relay, not powerful enough to 'close and hold' the relay. This would keep heat low on the relay. So what you are testing is to apply power to the start winding (pin 3 to pin 6) which closes the relay, and then the power to the run winding (pin 2 to pin 4) would hold it closed.
So with + power applied to both pin 2 and 3, permanently -power to pin 4 (the run/hold winding). Now trigger the relay shut with the starter circuit which you knows works, apply -power temporarily to pin 6. If the voltage on pin 1 stays at your 12.5 volts, then the relay is indeed being held closed by the run/hold winding, and your relay is okay. If the voltage on pin 1 went up to 12.5 volts when the relay was triggered with the starter circuit, but drops to 0 volts when pin 6 was released.....then your relay is bad.
Now having said that, "IF" both of your relays are acting the same way and both show as defective, it would be highly unlikely from a probability perspective that your car would have exactly the same problem as a randomnly picked car out of the junk yard. I would suspect that the relay winding is getting shorted out by the ECM, which is actually causing the problem. If you are able get another replacement, check it PRIOR to putting into the vehicle. If it works correctly, then you put it into your vehicle and it then isn't good anymore, then you know the ECM is burning out the winding.
In regards to the unlock, can you verify that it doesn't unlock with either the driver side button, the passenger side button, or the keyfob.
The first thing I do (if I can't figure out by just listening), is to first figure out whether the noise is coming from internal to the engine, or external as one of the accessories. It usually has been a pulley or accessory bearing gone bad. To do this, turn off the engine, and remove the accessory belt. Now start the engine again briefly, and see if the noise is still there, or has stopped. Assuming the noise has stopped, which is the majority of the time, turn off the engine.
Now go and turn each of the pulleys that are normally driven by the accessory belt, and feel for whether it turns smoothly without binding or grinding noises. You can usually easily detect which is bad, and then just go replace that unit, pulley, or tensioner.
If the noise happens to be internal to the engine, then you have to figure out whether the vehicle is worth it to fix, as you may be looking at big bucks.
I want to keep this simple . From your post I briefly read about the COR relay and bypassing this directly to the fuel pump started the car. I would have to get into the wire diagram too but it seems you found the problem .Later your discussing opening relays and such but that wouldn't be necessary. I would keep throwing relays at it.
My 1990 Q-45 has a complex electrical fuel system ,most of the parts are in the trunk next to the pump. The relay was bad and I got one like you did out of the junkyard. Of course it didn't work. I went back and exchanged it for a good one I tested before I left the property.
As a rule of thumb the hot two terminals on an any relay is the two further apart. The terminals grouped together are all the slave circuits or other words transfer or break circuits These two hot terminals will be in control of the relay pulling the contact together in the other circuits or breakeing them at the same time.
My 92 Camry I bought without driving because it looked well maintained an was at wholesale price. XLE all power, and sun roof too. Anyways the struts would rattle when you drive it I knew it wasn't a big deal cause I rather have something worn out that I could replace than pay more for something thats going to need replacing.
Your noise sound more superficial. The ting noise is propaly just that, a piece of tin rattling like your exhaust system or water deflector on your breaks, or a heat shield under the body next to the hot exhaust parts.
To test this, I would put the car in gear, block the tires, and have someone just ever so slightly give it some gas. Try it in reverse, blocking the tires in the other direction. This puts the car under stress an creates many odd noises, listen for the one you normally hear.
I've been reading the posts here and they seem very helpful. My 99 Camry driver's side window is making a weird noise and I'm afraid it's about to die. Any help as to if it is the motor, or the regulator and what to do?
You could have a motor going bad, gears going bad, the track could be loose causing binding, you could have a bad window switch causing decreased voltage to the motor....could be any number of things.
You really have to take the inside of the door off to look inside, and watch it's operations. That will allow you to see the movements happening, and hear better and perhaps pinpoint the problem area.
I never dome a 99 but the 92 has obvious screws under in the armrest. The trick is to get the panel off without breaking anything.
The bottom is mostly clips and the sides ,. Its the middle that you have to be careful to find the hidden srews useually under the armrest. Let me go out and look at mine, I had it off a month ago.
Im back. Oh yea the speaker cover hid one of the screws, its pops off. That srew holds the armrest on tight. I see the mirror cover is preventing the door panel from sliding upward. The panel always needs to slide straight up, while hitting the top of the panel in a up and in motion, striking against the window opening. Its hooked over that part and wont come unhooked unless you force it in tighter against the door frame and up against the window. Dont try to pull the panel away from the door frame at the bottom it only hooks it more. It helps to have the window down too.
I've reached 35k miles on my 03 Camry (4 cyl, Manual transmission) and need to take it in for a major 30,000 mile service. I've called several dealerships AND local automotive service shops and the cost is around $400.
The issue is that each dealership and shop say certain things need to be done - but the list is not identical.
My biggest concern of those non-identical items brought up are: differential fluid change, power steering flush, throttle body cleaning, fuel injection cleaning.
Although I'm not a mechanic, I know (and have done) oil changes, air filter change, cabin air filter change and coolant flush. Are these areas sufficient at this point? Or will I need to invest in those other things mentioned?
Thanks for any and all help.
Sounds like you need to consult the Toyota maintenance schedule (included in your owner's manual packet) and copy on a separate sheet of paper only the items that Toyota says should be done for your mileage and type of driving. Please don't be lured by the scare stories of dealers or shops saying you must do this or that when Toyota, who built the car, is silent on the issue. These people are just looking for a quick buck!
I am assuming that your car otherwise is exhibiting no operational problems, like stalling or hesitation. One big plus for you is your car has a manual transmission, which means you don't ever have to deal with what seems to be the weakest link in today's powertrains -- the automatic transmission.
Thank you!