Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Hello I was wondering if anybody in here owns a Camry V6 between the model years 2002-2006, I was planning on buying one and just needed to know if it's alright to put midgrade 89 fuel inside it??? or will it just slightly decrease its power output?? or will it mess up the engine???
Thanks,
Taz16
I worked at a dealer and did a bunch of these. We made a lot of money on the service cause its sounds like your getting so much for the so much money. Its good to do all this and keep your car well maintained but a lot could be done by you.I liked working on these cars that had this preventive maintenance done, cause they were well maintained and not as dirty as one that had been leaking for a few years.
I could do the transmission gasket in a half hour with the help of a lift. This would take a lot longer without one. I would be draining the other fluids asI installed the tranny gasket. Your manual transmission fluid should not need service. A manual transmission fluid last longer than an automatic. If I remember correctly the manual doesn't need a gasket to change because there is no filter for the fluid. We just drain the oil like a engine and pumped it back in with a special pump that had gear oil in it. The bolt to remove to refill this gear oil is hard to find.
You sound like your taking good care of your car. I would clean the throttle valve with a safe cleaner and put injection cleaner in the tank to save some money. Of coarse the mechanic will do the same thing too, and charge you more money. Some shops have a kit that hooks up to the fuel rail and cleans the injectors. A can of cleaner is hooked up here, and in about 10 mins its empty. We didnt do this extra step.
The throttle body can easily be gotten to by using a 8mm socket on the air duct. Remove it carefully, because with age they will rip and break although it is rubber. Then I'd open the throttle valve wide open and use a toothbrush to scrub the front and back side of this valve, then wipe carefully with a paper towel. I use alcohol(isopropyl) I have here in my garage, but an Auto Parts store has a safe spray that wont destroy the coating on this valve. Don't use something like carb cleaner spray.
Power steering fluid is a little harder to change and flush. I watched a kid do this on a car at a local oil change place here. I remember him getting a little nervous when I was asking him how the machine he was using flushes all the fluid out and replaces it with new.? He was only putting in a quart as the old fluid was pumped out.
To truly get a good flush, a couple quarts should be flushed through. The old fluid is not completely out when only a quart is pumped out. I guess its a 50% flush. Its not as critical on a preventive flush.
When I change a pump, I pump all the fluid out into a empty can while pumping in new fluid out of a large container. Then when this new fluid fills the drain can again and looks clean, I throw both flushed fluids away. I finish with another couple of quarts of new fluid in the system with the hoses connected back up.
You didnt mention battery post. Some guys just put grease on them and didnt remove the cable. The best way to keep post clean is to remove the cable, clean it, then grease it and reinstall. The positive terminal always corroded before the neg. terminal. Remove the neg first on this type of maintenance and install last to avoid sparks.You cant get zapped. Go ahead and touch each post at the same time. Start jumping to scare your friends.
Thank you for your time
thanks
I think you have almost no choice but have a qualified mechanic take a look. You don't have to go to the dealer, since the car is out of warranty. Get recommendations from friends, relatives, or co-workers.
any ideas on whats wrong?
You might just want to buy a new turn signal flasher, they're cheap.
I think you got the water in okay. Well you said you took out the thermostat so it should not overheat unless the pumps got a small leak. Its way over on the left side as your looking at the engine. I think its under those black covers and makes it hard to detect leaks. I usally get on the ground and look up at the belt pullelys, for any corroded water trails. The water usually evaporates before you discover it. When my wife gets home Ill look at ours, it its a V6.
Abused cars with clogged radiators will over heat on freeways but if yours is heating up at idle it sounds like the relay fans. A simple paper clip across the relay connector will make the fan come on, either hot or cold. Remove the relay and then jump the two farthest terminals on the wire bundle side or allthe terminals until the fan comes on. I have a cheap test light I usually jump across the live terminal to the other terminal with a paper clip hooked on the alligator clip end of this tester. A single clip and no tester gets hot in your hand from the current draw.
The relay is always on the outside of car in the engine compartment.
Ill make this topic watched on MySpace page. Let me know how far you get.
Its hard to pick up leak without removing black covers. A short cut to test for this leak is find a shop that does alot of radiator repairs they might have a pressure testor. It takes 2 min to remove the cap and put this tester on. It should hold pressure for at least 15 minutes.
I know, I know....I posted a message about purchasing the '95...and yes, I did buy it. I love it so far, but I have a (hopefully) small problem.
I had a '96 neon 5 spd (awww, it was my first stick, such wonderful memories:0) ) and I was told it was supposed to idle either at 1,000rpm or just a hair above that. So I guess I made that into my own rule of thumb since then.
This '95 camry (I just noticed today) seems to idle below that, say around 800 (alright, if you were to look at the tach. it would be right smack between "0" and "1"). When the air runs, it idles higher, which seems to help ease the vibrating I get when it sits at a light with no air on. The arrow bobs up and down slightly as I sit at a light but never fully reaches the "1". It doesn't seem serious, but it's enough to bother me....any idea's and how I might fix it? Is it lack of power from something like the battery or....? Thanks for your help!
It's in the plenum near the squirrel cage blower motor. Blower resistor has 2 screws holding it in. Up underneath the dash behind the glove compartment.
If lamps don't work, it calls out (in likely order)
- bulb
- combination meter (dash) wiring
- park/neutral switch
If one bulb out of the sequence is the problem, then it calls out:
- bulb
- combo meter wiring
I hate the thought of selling this dog to someone else without telling them the score. Should I fix it or sell it for parts, or what?
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea225d/5533
You might write the hosts and get it reopened.
Didn't Toyota have a recall about their sludge after a long time saying it was not a problem?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Yes there was a recall and it was good for 8 years and unlimited miles if you had some proof of past oil changes.
Sounds like the request may have been within the 8 years time frame the poster above says they finally allowed in their settlement over sludge at Toyota. I'd keep trying. Another dealer?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
After encouragement to close it from at least one poster
Closed discussion link
"C'mon Steve, make my day! Let's see the glorious words "read only." "
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Hi, was wondering if anyone could tell me why my tensioner mounting bolts broke in half. From the looks of the bolts, one must have broke some time ago because it was greasy and somewhat chewed up. The other just happened about a week & a half ago. As I backed partway out of the driveway all a sudden the power steering was gone. I immediately pulled straight back in so I could check to see if I couold figure out what had happen. I saw the drivebelt was missing. Looking underneath the car I saw it hanging down and craweled under to retreive it. As I did so, I alsosaw a "chunk" of metal that looked out of place. I touched it only to have it fall into my hand. After it was towed in for service I was told it was the drivebelt tensioner. To shorten the story, I was also told my "excellent" extended coverage did not cover the part. Estimated job would be about $1250.00. I would just like to know if anyone knows why this would happened. Thank you. dlm
Anyone have any experience with flushing sludge?
That's a very steep charge, to replace a normal defective tensioner. I'm suspecting, that they may be charging a premium, if it will be hard for them to get the remaining bolt stubs out of the engine. Without seeing whats left of the broken bolts and trying to get them out, it's hard to say that the $$'s is reasonable or not.
Call an auto parts store and ask for the cost of the part, and then ask what their charge would be to install the tensioner for you. That would give you an idea of the 'normal' cheap price. Another dealership than where you took it, could also give you a similar competitive quote over the phone. The broken bolts does add a considerable additional labor risk and wildcard....that could vary the real cost considerably.
Send your email address to me at kiawah@carspace.com
Edmunds didn't have to do as I wished, but any objective reader of the last several pages of posts will see that there was nothing of substance being discussed, just a lot of sniping. No different from other topics that Edmunds has closed for the same reasons -- pointless argumentation and name calling..
Do you know how to retrieve mail from your edmunds mailbox? bubba38@carspace.com?
Go to "My CarSpace" in the green toolbar upper left.
Then in a grey outlined box off to the right, there is a "Mailbox" tab.
Edit....I may have found a way. Found a free online disk space, it's uploading to it now, and I think it will send you a link to your bubba38 email address with a link. Should take another 6 minutes to upload.
There are matchmarks on the new belt to match with the camshaft pulley.
You need to get this file somehow.
There are instructions as to how to make sure you are starting with the crank and camshaft in the proper positions. Then the marks on the belt are used to make sure the camshaft is exactly on the right tooth of the belt.
Your repair is more expensive than the part.I know junk yards here that have a bunch of these and would charge $10.00 for a tensioner and bolts. A self serve used Auto parts yard or a "you pull'em" yard.
The hard part is geting any broken parts off your car. If your handi you could give it a try. A good Auto Parts will have a stud remover tool or at Sears.
If its burning oil on start up it could be a problem on the top side of the engine. Some of the oil gets past a seal and flows past the valve while sitting overnight. The valve seals are not hard to get replaced versus an engine overhaul.
De sludging I dont think is gonna stop the burning of oil. I bought a car from auction that had a lot of sludge in the engine. It lasted at least 10 years then the #1 or 2 connecting rod bearing spun . This is from oil starvation I immediately shut the engine off and then replaced it with a new bearing. The engine knocked slightly for awhile but then over time got more quiet and eventually stopped knocking. It ran great for about three more years until I sold it for $800.
I never desludged it.