Has anybody figured out why the sport model uses a different hitch system? My sport hitch is totally different from any other model. It looks so much beefier. If anybody has an 04 sport with the factory hitch, look around and you will see what I mean.
No, The manual does not require the change at 30K, it does specify the front and rear diff fluids though. But only under severe conditions. The 5speed tranny fluid is designed for the life of the tranny. However I will be replacing mine at 60K. I will do an oil analysis test on it at 30k miles.
Well I have a 2004 V8, but here is my experience for some of your questions. I run my vehicle on regular gas and have had no problems with it at all. Regarding the sulfur smell, I recently had my vehicle serviced under a new TSB. It appears to be fine now. I did have some smell before the fix tho. It is my understanding that vehicles produced currently have been fixed regarding the sulfur smell. In other words, the catalytic converter and PCM coding has been updated on the newer versions being produced today so that sulfur smell shouldn't even be an issue anymore. Hope this helps some.
You could get under your V and tell us if the cat is near the filter, otherwise your reponse is useless also I don't have my V anymore so I can't do it .
Towing hitch, the V6 and V8 models use different hitch, 5000 # vs 7000 # equalizing .
Anyone out there who self-installed leather on their 03-04 4runner? I would just like to see how hard it was and how long it took.... email me at nick4597@yahoo.com -
www.autoleatherinc.com sells a kit for $385, and they are extremely highly rated by customers who have purchased and installed their own. Any responses would be much appreciated. Before I go ahead and buy I want to know what im getting myself into.
I run 87 in my 03 Sport V-8, with no problems. My seat doesn't rock either. I do have a transmission oil dipstick in my highly prized, extremely rare and valuable, much sought by collectors, Titanium Silver, genuine gray plastic clad 2003 Sport V-8. ;-)
Stove1, simply for personal preference reasons, I too thought of - and did - get my first oil change at 3,000 (actually, 3,319), although in my case for my V-6. My second (this past week) was about 4,500 later at 7,835 miles. Ron
I've tried all of the fuel grades in my V6 4Runner, using each for several fills in a row. I cannot notice any difference in engine performance or sound (no pre-ignition pinging). My dealer also told me not to waste the money on premium fuel.
My advice is to be proactive with the dealer prior to delivery. For example, tell your sales person that you are aware that some 4Runner's seat bottoms are a bit loose. If yours is like that, tell him/her that you want it taken care of PRIOR to delivery.
My 4Runner has the sulfer smell, but I only notice it with the rear window down under slightly harder acceleration. If I ever have to take my 2003 in for warranty work (knock on wood), I'll ask them to address the TSB on the exhaust.
Here's my experience after 2,000 miles on an '04 Sport Edition V6. I've never run anything by 91+ Octane in the tank.
The good:
No engine noise. No sulfur smell. No leaks. No sunroof rattles. No seat problems. Gas Mileage! According to trip computer 21.7 mpg. Reality. 20.3mpg. I'll take that any day in a truck based SUV.
The "wish it was better."
1. Stereo system. Just very average. 2. A/C doesn't cool down very quickly. 3. Cargo system. Wish it wasn't even there. I've found nothing that will fit underneath it. Too small for my fly rods.
Is there any problems that I can expect from using low octane [85][86] in my 2000 4runner 5 speed?. I seem to have a rattle in the engine when starting up hills and sometimes when taking off from a stop light. please advise as wht I can do to help myself with this problem. Thanks, Jack
If by rattle you mean knock or ping then a higher octane gas would be a definite and not just a suggestion. That noise is hurting your engine. And by your description this is exactly when knock and ping WOULD happen if that is what it is.
If your engine is knocking, try using a higher octane fuel such as 91 or 93 octane. It's not uncommon for newer engine designs to eventually require higher octane fuel as they age.
Other things you might consider: (1) Have the vehicle "tuned up" (i.e., changing out spark plugs, PCV valve, fuel filter, timing belt, etc.) every 30,000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends or claims. Also, have the dealer check the vehicle's oxygen sensors, etc. [Even if a manufacturer may claim that no tune-up or spark plug change is needed during the first 100,000 miles or more, it is often very unwise and lazy to wait this long. Doing so may result in spark plugs that have essentially become heat-welded or corroded into their sockets; extracting those plugs after such a long time may prove very troublesome and costly. If you refuse to pay for a spark plug change at 30,000 miles or even 45,000 miles, you should at least have the old plugs removed and reseated; or at the very least have them loosened and retightened. But if you're willing to go that far, why not just do the right thing and have them replaced?].
(2) Every 2500-3000 miles, add a 20 oz. bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate (fuel system cleaner) to a tank of fuel (put the Techron in first, then fill the tank), and then wait until that tank is nearly gone before refueling.
(3) Get in the habit of using one or two brands of high quality fuel such as Sunoco, Chevron, or Shell. Avoid off-brand, generic, inexpensive fuels whenever possible.
(4) During the coldest months of the year, get in the habit of refueling when the tank reaches half empty, since doing so minimizes the possibility of water condensation in the fuel tank. However, even though this practice will progressively dilute older fuel with fresh fuel, some amount of older fuel always remains in the tank. And, because gasoline actually ages and begins to form varnishes and other deleterious products over time, it is a good idea to run the fuel tank to near empty after every 4th or 5th "half tank" cold weather fill-up, in order to better rid the tank of aging fuel. A great time to do this is during a more extended drive or trip.
(5) When you fuel up, avoid the habit of further "topping off" the fuel tank after the gasoline pump clicks off and stops pumping. Overfilling may lead to a variety of problems such as interfering with emission sensors, oxygen sensors, EGR sensors, etc. In addition, the fuel cap of many modern vehicles performs several important functions which may be related to the above mentioned sensors; overfilling can damage the fuel cap, possibly leading to erroneous sensor readings and the "check engine" light coming on.
(6) If your vehicle is predominantly subjected to short, around-town, stop-and-go miles (which are the harshest miles for a vehicle); it is a good idea to periodically take it out on a freeway (freeway outerbelts are often a good bet) in order to give the engine a good workout. By doing so, the engine, catalytic convertor, etc. will be more likely to reach and sustain temperatures high enough to begin loosening, dislodging, and burning-off carbon deposits, etc.
Any information on the TRD supercharger for the 2000 SR5 V-6 4x4. Looking perhaps to tow a Trailmanor hard sided trailer. This is of course if I manage to get the knocking and pinging under control. thanks for all who inputed some helpful and wise suggestions. Please keep them coming. Jack
In reply to slandy,s question about the flimsy looking tow hitch on an 04 SR5, I stopped by my local Toyota dealer today and sure enough the tow hitch on the new SR5 is indeed different and chintzy looking. What I noticed is that the v6 SR5 has the cheap hitch but the v8 SR5 have ones just like mine, a SR5 v8 built in Nov 03, that is the heavy duty tubular kind that hanges below the frame. I,M wondering if the v6 tow rating is enough less than the v8 that they were able to do this. Just a thought.
I just test drove 2004 4runner Sport & SR5 v6 models. The trucks were brand new, with less than 10mi. I was diappointed with the amount of drive vibration occuring after 60mph. Most people claim that the 4runner is a very smooth ride. I noticed much more vibration when driving in 2WD vs 4WD modes. I test drove other SUV's like Ford Escape. Explorer, and noticed the other test drives were very smooth rides. Can anyone explain the 4runner vibration?
I've noticed ride vibration in every 4runner that hasn't had the michelin cross terrains, including 6 test drives and a 2 day rental. It's dissapointing that they don't use these exclusively, although most dealers I've talked to said they would swap the original tires for the michelins.
Same here. When I test drove 3 out of 4 vehicles had a vibration felt through the steering wheel. The one I purchased didn't vibrate, but still needed 4 hours of alignment & two dealers trips to fix a pull to the right. Definitely ridiculous for new vehicles. I have the Dunlop GranTrek AT20's. Other posters have stated defective factory wheels as the cause. No matter what the cause, a $100 fix is scaring potential buyers away from a $30,000-40,000 vehicle.
Can you provide a more detailed description of the vibration. On my 2004 Sport V8, I only notice a vibration through the steering wheel part of the time. It is very difficult to describe. But I would say that only the steering column has the vibration sensation. I am trying to get more information before I take it to the dealer for service. Mine has less than 3000 miles on it. How many others out there have the problem, and can you provide a more precise description. In my case, it does not feel like an unbalance tires, since the wheel does not vibrate differently at different speeds.
I had the same problem with my 2003 V6 Limited. Post #10076 by ohtoma is absolutely correct. I test drove a 2004 4Runner with Michelin cross terrains that caused no vibration in the steering wheel. Dealer then gave me set of new Michelin cross terrains for my vehicle and problem is completely gone. Most Toyota service departments are not aware of the problem and we consumers must educate them. I actually had to get Toyota's district service manager for Long Island, NY involved. She is now aware of the problem and the fix that is required. Hope this helps.
I have an 03 SR5 4X4. The only times I feel vibrations in my truck is while accelerating and braking. Sometimes it just feels like the pedals are vibrating. I just considered this normal, never had any mechanical problems with the truck yet and im at 19,000 miles. Oh and truck stopped stinkin' a few thousand miles ago!
I have an 03 Sport V-8 with the Dunlop tires. I've had my 4Runner up to 80-85 MPH with no vibration. My tires came with about 55-60 PSI. Some test drives may have been with way over inflated tires. Mine drove like the tires were hard as concrete until I got them down to 32 PSI.
Michelin Cross Terrains weren't enough to fix mine.
My vehicle came with the Dunlops, then I tried a set of Goodyear tires, still no fix. Now I'm onto the Michelin Cross Terrains. The Cross Terrains felt pretty good at first, but after a few hundered miles they too demonstrate the problem.
My conclusion is that there is no fix at this point.
This seems like a potential class action suite to me.
For those who feel their tires may not be running as smoothly as they'd like them to, it may be very worthwhile to have the tires "road- force balanced". Better service shops often own a road-force balancer; road-force balancing is a more sophisticated and effective method than simple spin-balancing.
In brief, neither tires nor wheels (rims) are ever "perfectly" round. Instead, they often have very subtle high and low spots, and these imperfections in roundness can occasionally cause vexing vibrations at higher speeds. Spin balancing does nothing to remedy this problem, but road-force balancing can often greatly reduce or elminate the problem. How?
Basically, road-force balancing is a method for identifying the high or low spots on both the tire and its wheel. A given tire and wheel are placed on the machine and the tire is then subjected to a pressure or weight load which simulates "road forces". By monitoring tire pressure changes as the tire/wheel rotate on the machine, any significant irregularities in the shape of the tire/wheel can be identified and marked. Once this is done, the technician will basically remove the tire and then remount it on the rim, only this time they match the tire's high spot to the rim's low spot (or vise versa) in a complementary fashion. The end result tends to be a relative "cancellation" of any previous shape irregularities, resulting in a smoother ride.
Expect to pay around $70.00-$130.00 for road- force balancing of a set of 4 tires. If your dealer doesn't have a road-force balancer, try calling other dealerships (Toyota and others) and tire shops in your area. Also, note that if a tire must be remounted or replaced at a later time, it will need to be re-balanced on a road- force balancer.
I had my 4Runner's Michelin Cross Terrains road-force balanced shortly after I bought the vehicle, not because of a problem, but rather as a matter of routine.
In this month's Four Wheeler magazine, they have a review of the 2005 4runner that will have the TRD supercharger as a option from the factory! I won't copy and paste the review, but basically they said it was a much more impressive increase in hp and torque than the same supercharger on the same engine in the Tundra. Don't know why. Anyway, I think the hp and torque both went up over 115 points! They also mentioned that with this as a stock option, it has now become the quickest SUV on the market, even beating the Cayenne S!!! The supercharged 4runner can do 0-60 in 7.6s!
7.6 seconds is what a stock V8 4Runner does in a quater mile. That must be a misprint.
The S/C 4Runner does about 5.9 sec. in a quater mile.
BTW that stock option retails for about $4500.00 and right now Toyota has them on hold and hasn't released any S/C's for months now. There must be a problem with them right now.
And it still isn't the quickest on the market. What about the cayenne twin turbo and the FX45
I am also considering a 2005 4-Runner. I am most interested in the opinion of forum members reegarding the new V-8 engine. I understand the horsepower will increase from 235 to 270 and the torque will increase from 320 to 330. I am most interested in how members view the new V-8 vs. the present V-8. I also am interested in the opinion of members regarding how much increased acceleration power there may be with the new V-8. Thanks.
There is nothing not to like about more power. Sounds like a win/win situation with the new V8, more power and better gas mileage. I don't see any downside to the "new" engine.
I don't think the new engine will improve acceleration drastically but I'm sure it will make some difference. I think the best part about it will be the improved gas mileage which I can tell you is not that great with the current V8 but I'm not complaining because I love this truck and its' V8.
Advice please? My son moved to FL. (I live in WV) and left me with a brush guard from a 2000 4Runner - he had it on his 1999 Taco. It will not fit my 2003 and I need to get rid of it. I can't sell it on E-Bay because it would cost a fortune to ship. Anyone who took it would have to come pick it up as I no longer have a pickup to haul it in. The thing is in good shape with little if any rust except for the bolts which are off of it anyway and would likely be replaced. Should I put it in the paper or post it somewhere on the net (best offer) or just try to give it away and hope someone can come for it. In spite of what people think not ALL West Virginians love car parts in the yard! I live where WV, OH and KY connect. What do you guys think?
I just got this 2001 Toyota 4runner. I have been totally confused by the manual as to the use of the 4 wheel option. I do not even know how to start. Say I want to use 4H on snowy or wet paved road, where do I start? How do you unlock or lock the center differential? I need the very basic ABC instruction. Can any one help? Thanks.
First, if you don't have a locking center diff (button on dash to the left of the steering wheel) then you don't even have to think about that feature.
Second, to get into 4hi just make sure you are under the recommended speed and shift the lever to 4hi (I'm almost positive that the '01 4runners could be shifted on-the-fly)
To go into 4lo, which would only be needed in HEAVY snow, deep mud or serious 4 wheeling, you will need to stop and then shift the lever to 4 lo.
Comments
Towing hitch, the V6 and V8 models use different hitch, 5000 # vs 7000 # equalizing .
www.autoleatherinc.com sells a kit for $385, and they are extremely highly rated by customers who have purchased and installed their own. Any responses would be much appreciated. Before I go ahead and buy I want to know what im getting myself into.
That does help some.......... thanks!
seats don't rock either.
I do have a transmission oil dipstick in my highly prized, extremely rare and valuable, much sought by collectors, Titanium Silver, genuine gray plastic clad 2003 Sport V-8. ;-)
My advice is to be proactive with the dealer prior to delivery. For example, tell your sales person that you are aware that some 4Runner's seat bottoms are a bit loose. If yours is like that, tell him/her that you want it taken care of PRIOR to delivery.
My 4Runner has the sulfer smell, but I only notice it with the rear window down under slightly harder acceleration. If I ever have to take my 2003 in for warranty work (knock on wood), I'll ask them to address the TSB on the exhaust.
The good:
No engine noise.
No sulfur smell.
No leaks.
No sunroof rattles.
No seat problems.
Gas Mileage! According to trip computer 21.7 mpg. Reality. 20.3mpg. I'll take that any day in a truck based SUV.
The "wish it was better."
1. Stereo system. Just very average.
2. A/C doesn't cool down very quickly.
3. Cargo system. Wish it wasn't even there. I've found nothing that will fit underneath it. Too small for my fly rods.
Other things you might consider:
(1) Have the vehicle "tuned up" (i.e., changing out spark plugs, PCV valve, fuel filter, timing belt, etc.) every 30,000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends or claims. Also, have the dealer check the vehicle's oxygen sensors, etc. [Even if a manufacturer may claim that no tune-up or spark plug change is needed during the first 100,000 miles or more, it is often very unwise and lazy to wait this long. Doing so may result in spark plugs that have essentially become heat-welded or corroded into their sockets; extracting those plugs after such a long time may prove very troublesome and costly. If you refuse to pay for a spark plug change at 30,000 miles or even 45,000 miles, you should at least have the old plugs removed and reseated; or at the very least have them loosened and retightened. But if you're willing to go that far, why not just do the right thing and have them replaced?].
(2) Every 2500-3000 miles, add a 20 oz. bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate (fuel system cleaner) to a tank of fuel (put the Techron in first, then fill the tank), and then wait until that tank is nearly gone before refueling.
(3) Get in the habit of using one or two brands of high quality fuel such as Sunoco, Chevron, or Shell. Avoid off-brand, generic, inexpensive fuels whenever possible.
(4) During the coldest months of the year, get in the habit of refueling when the tank reaches half empty, since doing so minimizes the possibility of water condensation in the fuel tank. However, even though this practice will progressively dilute older fuel with fresh fuel, some amount of older fuel always remains in the tank. And, because gasoline actually ages and begins to form varnishes and other deleterious products over time, it is a good idea to run the fuel tank to near empty after every 4th or 5th "half tank" cold weather fill-up, in order to better rid the tank of aging fuel. A great time to do this is during a more extended drive or trip.
(5) When you fuel up, avoid the habit of further "topping off" the fuel tank after the gasoline pump clicks off and stops pumping. Overfilling may lead to a variety of problems such as interfering with emission sensors, oxygen sensors, EGR sensors, etc. In addition, the fuel cap of many modern vehicles performs several important functions which may be related to the above mentioned sensors; overfilling can damage the fuel cap, possibly leading to erroneous sensor readings and the "check engine" light coming on.
(6) If your vehicle is predominantly subjected to short, around-town, stop-and-go miles (which are the harshest miles for a vehicle); it is a good idea to periodically take it out on a freeway (freeway outerbelts are often a good bet) in order to give the engine a good workout. By doing so, the engine, catalytic convertor, etc. will be more likely to reach and sustain temperatures high enough to begin loosening, dislodging, and burning-off carbon deposits, etc.
nonetheless you could go to the TRD website to find out about it. I believe you can link there from the Toyota site or just search for TRD
Thanks.
Can you provide a more detailed description of the vibration. On my 2004 Sport V8, I only notice a vibration through the steering wheel part of the time. It is very difficult to describe. But I would say that only the steering column has the vibration sensation. I am trying to get more information before I take it to the dealer for service. Mine has less than 3000 miles on it. How many others out there have the problem, and can you provide a more precise description. In my case, it does not feel like an unbalance tires, since the wheel does not vibrate differently at different speeds.
My vehicle came with the Dunlops, then I tried a set of Goodyear tires, still no fix. Now I'm onto the Michelin Cross Terrains. The Cross Terrains felt pretty good at first, but after a few hundered miles they too demonstrate the problem.
My conclusion is that there is no fix at this point.
This seems like a potential class action suite to me.
-Eric
In brief, neither tires nor wheels (rims) are ever "perfectly" round. Instead, they often have very subtle high and low spots, and these imperfections in roundness can occasionally cause vexing vibrations at higher speeds. Spin balancing does nothing to remedy this problem, but road-force balancing can often greatly reduce or elminate the problem. How?
Basically, road-force balancing is a method for identifying the high or low spots on both the tire and its wheel. A given tire and wheel are placed on the machine and the tire is then subjected to a pressure or weight load which simulates "road forces". By monitoring tire pressure changes as the tire/wheel rotate on the machine, any significant irregularities in the shape of the tire/wheel can be identified and marked. Once this is done, the technician will basically remove the tire and then remount it on the rim, only this time they match the tire's high spot to the rim's low spot (or vise versa) in a complementary fashion. The end result tends to be a relative "cancellation" of any previous shape irregularities, resulting in a smoother ride.
Expect to pay around $70.00-$130.00 for road- force balancing of a set of 4 tires. If your dealer doesn't have a road-force balancer, try calling other dealerships (Toyota and others) and tire shops in your area. Also, note that if a tire must be remounted or replaced at a later time, it will need to be re-balanced on a road- force balancer.
I had my 4Runner's Michelin Cross Terrains road-force balanced shortly after I bought the vehicle, not because of a problem, but rather as a matter of routine.
Thank you,
Joaquin
Sweet lord almighty.
-Jared
The S/C 4Runner does about 5.9 sec. in a quater mile.
BTW that stock option retails for about $4500.00 and right now Toyota has them on hold and hasn't released any S/C's for months now. There must be a problem with them right now.
And it still isn't the quickest on the market. What about the cayenne twin turbo and the FX45
Is this information on the web somewhere?
I don't think you mean quarter mile times. The times you gave look to me like they are 0-60 times.
I don't think the new engine will improve acceleration drastically but I'm sure it will make some difference. I think the best part about it will be the improved gas mileage which I can tell you is not that great with the current V8 but I'm not complaining because I love this truck and its' V8.
Steve, Host
I've been shopping looms and many of them are buyer pickup only, fwiw.
Steve, Host
Second, to get into 4hi just make sure you are under the recommended speed and shift the lever to 4hi (I'm almost positive that the '01 4runners could be shifted on-the-fly)
To go into 4lo, which would only be needed in HEAVY snow, deep mud or serious 4 wheeling, you will need to stop and then shift the lever to 4 lo.