Thanks, So you'd suggest changing the filter every time you change the oil. Given that there are no mazda dealers here I was hoping to be able to use the filters for a longer period, but I guess I'll just have to stock up. Any thoughts on synthetic vs. organic oil? I guess that with a 3000m interval I just go with organic, right? All the best, gts
My every 3,000 miles only comes twice a year, so I use Mobil 1. Either a good organic oil or a synthetic will work fine. You should be able to go longer mileage intervals with a synthetic oil, but I like to change mine no less than twice yearly.
Stock up on filters - only about US$4.25 each from Trussville Mazda.
I suggest you find a generic filter, or a Brazilian made one, that fits. Maybe take an old one and eye ball something with the same size opening and a very small overall size, because there isn't much room in there at all.
I agree with Mike that you should probably change just about all the fluids now to establish a base line. For the tranny and the rear differential, use 75w90 gear oil. That should be easy to find.
I would bet that some of the Miata vendors in the USA would ship to Brazil. Of course, you may need to buy in larger quantities in order to justify the shipping.
From what I have read, the Mazda filters are better than any of the aftermarket filters, so I would try and find the OEM filters unless the cost differential is too great. Just remember to change the filter with every oil change.
Ok. I've just changed the oil (went for semi synthetic from shell) and the filter (yes I am in Brazil but the last owner was good enough to stock up so I had 3 oil filters (two from mazda and one from fram), brake pads, one air filter and a gas filter as well...) pity he did not keep spare shocks. When we raised the car to change the oil today I found out that the car is significantly scraped on the underside with the underside slightly bent from contacts with speedbumps or garageways... I need to raise the car. (juice I got the camera and I'll send you pics this w/e just for the record). I am not sure what I'll need to do to raise it, but that's my #1 priority now... Now I have to find some shocks that will fit here in Brazil (either that or find a way to fly to US, Argentina or Chile to get them... As for driving it down BR101... That is what I want as well. Sadly, getting to BR101 is tough with the car this low. The road through Santa Cruz is almost destroyed (so you have to go thorugh avenida Brasil and the place I can stay in Angra has very tough access as well. When the car is higher I'll go, but for now my first planned trip is to Petropolis. Abraco a todos, gts
The last time I was in Brasil, we drove south out of Resende to SP66, then to RJ155 onto 101. It would be rather difficult to drive an unmodified Miata on those two State roads.
Well, I'll try to get some pictures of the springs and shocks... It just kills me to see the underside damaged like that. An aggressive mechanic was thinking of adding a 2cm disk made out of nylon on top of the springs but I am not sure that works. First things first. I'll check the alignments and shocks this week. Sorry to be a drag here. Cheers to all, gts
I was at the MazdaRevItUp event in LA on sunday. And they had a track where you could drive any Mazda you wanted. Well, I waited through that stupid line for 2 runs in a 6-speed Miata, but oh was it worth it. After hanging my tail out all over the course, in the beautiful sunshine, I have got to get one.
Those seats are wild. Outside it's nice and stealthy. Congrats.
Strange thing happened this morning to my '93 Miata. The clutch suddenly got soft, for about the first 3/4ths of its travel. Still worked, but the point of engagement was closer to the firewall than normal. I have just 41k miles, but it is more than a decade old.
It didn't quite sink to the floor, just got softer. What's bizarre is that about 10 miles later, it fixed itself.
Should I start saving for a new clutch? Is there something I can adjust? I put in synthetic in the tranny/front diff, is that fluid shared with the clutch? If not, how do I change or at least add fluid to the clutch?
first determine if your '93 has a cable-operated or a hydraulic clutch. I have no idea, but I do know that late model Miatae have hydraulic actuation.
if yours is hydraulic too, you could have a leaking slave cylinder but first just bleed it. I'm sure you can google up some articles on how to do this... if that doesn't work, replacing the slave cylinder is probably next. I imagine you'd take it in for that.
if it's a pressure plate issue those usually don't fix themselves... once the fingers collapse that's generally it.
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Juice, your Miata has a hydraulic clutch. First check the master for fluid. It's right next to the brake master. I would say that Colin is on the right track, either the slave or the master. I would bet that the fluid has never been changed in your car. That's the first thing I'd try. Flush & bleed with fingers crossed. You might get lucky.=) You might also want to post your problem over on Miata.net, lots of knowledge there.
I have a 95 and experienced the same thing. My problem is a slow leaking slave cylinder and I don't have the money to get it replaced just yet (I just gave the car a new Robbins top, battery and weather stripping so the car funds are quite depleted). As long as I check the fluid levels weekly and top it off when it drops below the line It gets along just fine (very slow leak). Luckily the car is for my girl who does free lance work from home so it doesn't have to be driven very far or very often.
As others have opined, the slave cylinder is most likely the problem with the clutch pedal not engaging at its normal height. It is mounted to the passenger side of the transmission which can be accessed from underneath the car (although some have been able to access it through the right front wheel well if the wheel is turned all the way to the left).
There is a rubber boot that covers a pushrod in the cylinder. Pull back on the boot to see if there is any cluid pooled up inside of it. If so, you have a leaky cylinder. New units are about $35-$50 and can be replaced in less than an hour. It is held on by two bolts and the nut securing the clutch fluid line to the cylinder.
Replacement instructions can be found at Miata.net
94 Miata w/ Package B Color: Laguna Blue Interior: Black cloth Miles: 39,100 Trans: Manual Condition: Mint I sold it for $7000.00 to a friend. I think it could have gotten $7500. In your case, I would guess you will get $6500. This is adjusting for the fact that I sold last year vs. current year, Laguna Blue is more rare than Montego Blue, Manual is preferable to Auto, and lower miles. But I think it's a close range. I would start the offer at $7500 and see what bites, then adjust to $6900 after a month.
OK, clutch reservoir was low. No, make that empty. Filled her up, but the clutch still feels soft for the first 3/4ths of its travel. I'll see if it gets any better, but it sounds like I'll have to at least bleed it.
The weather has not been co-operating here in the Chicago area either. It snowed on Monday, for crying out loud.
The sun was shining today, but it was cold. Not to worry. I have a great Patagonia Core jacket. It is light, but nevertheless wind resistant and warm. I recommend it to people who want to have the top down in chilly weather, but do not want a heavy coat on that makes it hard to manuver.
If it was empty, you most likely have a leak. Check the slave cylinder as described in my previous post. Most likely it is leaking. Either rebuild or replace the slave cylinder before you bleed the clutch or will end up going through the bleeding process twice.
Thanks Juice! Your problem with your clutch reminded me I should check my fluid. It was a tad below the max line so I topped it off. I will now keep a close eye on it to make sure I don't have a serious leak like yours.
After toppping off, and a few shifts, it's firm again and seems to be working well. Maybe it was a fluke, but when it warms up and I get a chance I think I'll have a look at it anyway.
Anyone have any suggestions for where to get a hard top? I have heard Trussville Mazda is the place to go, but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.
There are almost always HTs for sale at Miata.net and on Ebay. Shipping can be high, so you probably want to find one close enough that you are willing to drive to pick it up.
If you want a new one, Trussville is a very good place to start looking. At a minimum, you should get the HT latches that you will need in order to add a HT to a car that has not had one in the past.
HTs from all years fit all years, although the '90-'91 HTs did not have a rear defroster (if that is important to you)..
Where are you located? What year / color are you looking for?
I am in Durham, NC. I have a 2003 Titanium Gray Shinsen Version. I have been looking on eBay, but considering the prices that people are paying for used ones, I figured I would just pay the extra couple hundred dollars to get a new one to go with my new car. Thanks for confirming that Trussville is a good place to shop.
Shipping may be expensive from Alabama. You should also try Finishline Performance in Virginia. A bit closer for pickup or delivery. Their tops are priced at $1,795.
I am in Raleigh... and have been thinking about a 2003 Titanium Gray Shinsen Version. Haven't looked at one in person yet. I know I like the exterior color - how do you like the blue interior now that you've had it a little while? Did you purchase in the Raleigh/Durham area?
I bought it at Capital of Cary (unfortunately at Crossroads). Only the seats, top, 1/2 the shifter, and the door inserts are blue. I think it looks great. Ask for Chuck Foster if you go to Capital. He was very helpful. Good Luck!
Has anyone else noticed that their Speedometer is off by quite a bit? I noticed on the highway yesterday that one of those radar signs was set up on the side of the road. According to my Miata's speedometer, I was doing about 73. According to the radar sign, I was only doing 65. That seems like a large variance for a brand new car. I had previously noticed that I had to do about 80 mph to keep up with traffic on the freeway which normally goes about 70-75 around here.
Haven't bought one... just toying with the idea. I'm also tempted by a couple of low mileage 2002 SE's that I've seen advertised. I really like the looks of the saddle leather they put in the gray one. Both have approx 5k miles, asking around $22k.
I have a 97 Miata with about 110,000 miles. I just bought it about 1,000 miles ago.
The car has a steering problem, one which wasn't readily apparent on my 2 test drives. She will steer a straight line on a flat road (even if I let go of the wheel).
Problem is, if I hit a pothole (small or big) or, say, a speedbump, the wheel pulls sharply left or right (depending on the side the hole/bump is on) in an unnatural way. I really have to be ready for it if I see a bump coming.
I need new bushings, says my friend.
Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? I can't think the Miata steers this way off the showroom floor... Thanks for any help... -t.
I was looking to upgrade the door speakers in my 2003 Shinsen(without Bose). I checked at Crutchfield to get an idea what was available. According to their website, the front doors have 6x8s. Nothing I can find on older models mentions 6x8s, so I was wondering if this was, in fact, correct.
After a month of owning my miata (which is now curiously dubbed "Penelope") I now have two service manuals (one the Mazda 1993 service manual, the other a Veloce one that was indicated by miata.net) and Garrett's "Enthusiast" manual which have allowed me to safely diagnose that my Miata is too low... I have already bought new shocks (though they take 30 days to be delivered to Brazil) and the shock dustguards and I am now wondering if I should buy new springs as well (the cost is a concern, but the 30 day wait is just maddening). I have not yet torn down the suspension to take a look at each part but I was wondering if anyone can help me with these questions: *1. Has anyone ever had suspension height problems that were not due to the springs? (the service manual says I could have busted shock boots as my problem and if that is the case buying new springs will be a waste of money) *2. Has anyone ever experimented raising the car with nylon disks? If so where shuld I put them above the springs or below the springs? Can anyone think of a reason not to use them? *3. For online buying I've found that www.finishlineperformance.com has better prices than www.trussvillemazda.com (and better shipping prices as well because it is in VA) but neither has mazda springs (only aftermarket). I've only found the springs in an online dealer for about US$80 and I don't know if this is too much... Is this a good price? Sorry for the long message. Abraço a todos, gts
Comments
So you'd suggest changing the filter every time you change the oil. Given that there are no mazda dealers here I was hoping to be able to use the filters for a longer period, but I guess I'll just have to stock up. Any thoughts on synthetic vs. organic oil? I guess that with a 3000m interval I just go with organic, right?
All the best,
gts
Stock up on filters - only about US$4.25 each from Trussville Mazda.
I suggest you find a generic filter, or a Brazilian made one, that fits. Maybe take an old one and eye ball something with the same size opening and a very small overall size, because there isn't much room in there at all.
I agree with Mike that you should probably change just about all the fluids now to establish a base line. For the tranny and the rear differential, use 75w90 gear oil. That should be easy to find.
-juice
From what I have read, the Mazda filters are better than any of the aftermarket filters, so I would try and find the OEM filters unless the cost differential is too great. Just remember to change the filter with every oil change.
I would like nothing more than to drive a Miata south from Rio along BR 101. While there are Mazdas in Brazil, I have never seen a Miata there.
When we raised the car to change the oil today I found out that the car is significantly scraped on the underside with the underside slightly bent from contacts with speedbumps or garageways... I need to raise the car. (juice I got the camera and I'll send you pics this w/e just for the record).
I am not sure what I'll need to do to raise it, but that's my #1 priority now... Now I have to find some shocks that will fit here in Brazil (either that or find a way to fly to US, Argentina or Chile to get them...
As for driving it down BR101... That is what I want as well. Sadly, getting to BR101 is tough with the car this low. The road through Santa Cruz is almost destroyed (so you have to go thorugh avenida Brasil and the place I can stay in Angra has very tough access as well. When the car is higher I'll go, but for now my first planned trip is to Petropolis.
Abraco a todos,
gts
Good luck and happy driving to Petropolis.
Can you take a photo of the springs/shocks? Then I'll share it with this group (by hosting it on-line) and we'll get some more opinions.
So we might end up having to search for taller-than-stock springs. Anyone know if Protoge springs fit?
-juice
Sorry to be a drag here.
Cheers to all,
gts
Check out these, made for Subarus, just to borrow ideas, if possible:
http://isrperformance.com/main.html
Go to off road parts.
The Subaru is actually similar because it uses 4 coil springs and has a 4 wheel independent suspension.
-juice
FWIW, I looked on Cars.com when I bought my '93.
-juice
http://homepage.mac.com/tboggs/PhotoAlbum6.html
I can tell I am really going to enjoy this car.
Strange thing happened this morning to my '93 Miata. The clutch suddenly got soft, for about the first 3/4ths of its travel. Still worked, but the point of engagement was closer to the firewall than normal. I have just 41k miles, but it is more than a decade old.
It didn't quite sink to the floor, just got softer. What's bizarre is that about 10 miles later, it fixed itself.
Should I start saving for a new clutch? Is there something I can adjust? I put in synthetic in the tranny/front diff, is that fluid shared with the clutch? If not, how do I change or at least add fluid to the clutch?
-juice
if yours is hydraulic too, you could have a leaking slave cylinder but first just bleed it. I'm sure you can google up some articles on how to do this... if that doesn't work, replacing the slave cylinder is probably next. I imagine you'd take it in for that.
if it's a pressure plate issue those usually don't fix themselves... once the fingers collapse that's generally it.
-Colin
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Edmunds.com
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Review your vehicle
Good luck.
Chuck
There is a rubber boot that covers a pushrod in the cylinder. Pull back on the boot to see if there is any cluid pooled up inside of it. If so, you have a leaky cylinder. New units are about $35-$50 and can be replaced in less than an hour. It is held on by two bolts and the nut securing the clutch fluid line to the cylinder.
Replacement instructions can be found at Miata.net
Good luck.
94 Miata w/ Package B
Color: Laguna Blue
Interior: Black cloth
Miles: 39,100
Trans: Manual
Condition: Mint
I sold it for $7000.00 to a friend. I think it could have gotten $7500. In your case, I would guess you will get $6500. This is adjusting for the fact that I sold last year vs. current year, Laguna Blue is more rare than Montego Blue, Manual is preferable to Auto, and lower miles. But I think it's a close range. I would start the offer at $7500 and see what bites, then adjust to $6900 after a month.
OK, so I'll check the fluid tonight. This weekend I'll try to inspect for fluid around the area Mike described (thanks).
-juice
I hope we have a great Spring and Summer so you can enjoy as much as possible.
2. GoggleHelmet: Washing liquid from cars/van in front.
2. Mask: Vehicle with Side exhaust pipes.
Not much fun at all.
-juice
The sun was shining today, but it was cold. Not to worry. I have a great Patagonia Core jacket. It is light, but nevertheless wind resistant and warm. I recommend it to people who want to have the top down in chilly weather, but do not want a heavy coat on that makes it hard to manuver.
-juice
If you want a new one, Trussville is a very good place to start looking. At a minimum, you should get the HT latches that you will need in order to add a HT to a car that has not had one in the past.
HTs from all years fit all years, although the '90-'91 HTs did not have a rear defroster (if that is important to you)..
Where are you located? What year / color are you looking for?
Good luck!
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=actio- - n&key=EX1105
-juice
Thanks...
Where did you buy the parts? Roebuck's web site is bizarre now, looks like someone else stole their URL.
-juice
I hope the odometers are more accurate than that, else we're accumulating more miles for naught.
-juice
BTW: Twinpower - Wondertwins fan?
Twinpower - I have twin girls...
The car has a steering problem, one which wasn't readily apparent on my 2 test drives. She will steer a straight line on a flat road (even if I let go of the wheel).
Problem is, if I hit a pothole (small or big) or, say, a speedbump, the wheel pulls sharply left or right (depending on the side the hole/bump is on) in an unnatural way. I really have to be ready for it if I see a bump coming.
I need new bushings, says my friend.
Does any of this sound familiar to anyone? I can't think the Miata steers this way off the showroom floor... Thanks for any help... -t.
I have already bought new shocks (though they take 30 days to be delivered to Brazil) and the shock dustguards and I am now wondering if I should buy new springs as well (the cost is a concern, but the 30 day wait is just maddening).
I have not yet torn down the suspension to take a look at each part but I was wondering if anyone can help me with these questions:
*1. Has anyone ever had suspension height problems that were not due to the springs? (the service manual says I could have busted shock boots as my problem and if that is the case buying new springs will be a waste of money)
*2. Has anyone ever experimented raising the car with nylon disks? If so where shuld I put them above the springs or below the springs? Can anyone think of a reason not to use them?
*3. For online buying I've found that www.finishlineperformance.com has better prices than www.trussvillemazda.com (and better shipping prices as well because it is in VA) but neither has mazda springs (only aftermarket). I've only found the springs in an online dealer for about US$80 and I don't know if this is too much... Is this a good price?
Sorry for the long message.
Abraço a todos,
gts