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The hybrid system needs no maintenance - EVER.
Oil / filters every 5K or 6 mo's
Engine air filter every 30K
That's it for the first 100K miles!!!!!
Wash, Rinse and Repeat for the next 100K miles!!!
At 100K drain and replace the inverter coolant
At 120K to 150K replace the spark plugs
Your 2010 has no belts of any kind so these never need to be checked or replaced.
Wear items as needed.
More gas has been wasted warming up the car for the kids, than I would care to imagine.
Start it up, and take off....smoothly.
Then, you need to replace the cabin air filter every 30k.
Lastly, the transaxle fluid should be drained and refilled every 60k with Toyota WS fluid. While Toyota considers it to be a lifetime fill, the gurus on the Priuschat forum have concluded that every 60k is a reasonable interval if you want to keep the car for a long time. It is a very easy job and the process is identical to servicing a manual transaxle.
Ditto the cabin air filter. I do mine every 30K
The transaxel issue concerns the Gen 1's primarily. There is nothing specified about the Gen 2s or 3s. I've followed the PC threads on the subject. It's not required but it can't hurt.
Everyone thot I had to plug in my '07.
Everyone heard the battery pack cost $3000.
Everyone heard the battery pack wears out in 50-60K mi.
One Ford salesman, whose dealership didn't handle hybrid Escapes, told me the brakes would wear out "twice as fast" because of the regenerative braking system.
Although these days it is difficult to find ANY salesman who knows much of anything about the cars that are on the lot.
Everyone was misinformed.
has this happened to anyone? i'm thinking it's a transmission issue? ugh....the car is only a few yrs old....
When I hooked the car up to a computer, the mechanic asked if my A/C was working (A/C does indeed work just fine) because the external temp gauge was reading incorrectly. Clearly the car just has a ton of computer issues, but given the fact that it drives absolutely fine and my MPG is in the mid to high 40s, I see no reason to dump a ton of money into it to fix a computer problem that has affected nothing other than turning on 2 dashboard lights.
I am located in CT, and have not been able to come up with any resolution, even when speaking directly to the head of the emissions dept. Has anyone else had a similar problem, or found a resolution?
You can't just ignore these errors, as at some point the computer detects so many errors it can't figure out what area is really causing the problem.....and then you get to the point where you fail an inspection, and have to throw many unnecessary parts at it.
I would see about getting the fault codes erased and see if whatever was making the check engine light come on causes it to come on ....again.
I wouldn't mess with those _____ any more than I had to. AND I wouldn't pay a whole lot to get the car diagnosed. BUT I WOULD get a list of the fault codes printed out prior to erasing them. And THEN drive the car about 100mi and see if any of them returned.
For anyone to make a blanket statement that the car needs a $4000 "hybrid system" replacement seems ludicrous to me.
It's a brand new vehicle, take it back to the dealership, that's what the warranty if for so you don't have to waste your time on problems.
Now that I see the spelling of "brake", I am beginning to wonder about the relative "smartness" of those operators.
Of course, I am aware that most consumers disregard the "Owner's Manual" in lieu of "live and learn", but if I just paid for a (new ) car, I would make damn sure I knew how to operate it. Especially a car that is as fundamentally different in its' drive system.
Perhaps we are witnessing "buyer's remorse", or just plain ignorance.
Anyway, in my O6 HH, nowhere in the manual was it made really clear that when braking, the gas engine will likely shut down and all the engine braking one has learned to appreciate in a regular gas-engine car, will go away. Net result, because you aren't fully depressing the brake pedal, the car will "accelerate" and unless you quickly react you could experience an unplanned, sudden stop.
Likewise, the braking benefits of using the B mode in lieu of Drive, was not emphasized. (Not only does it charge the battery but "engine braking" is restored.
So, let's not assume that the owner's manual is the be all end all of driver education for "new" car owners and anyone who can't find exactly what they need in a manual is stupid. Often I find knowledge from users groups is far more current and clear than any manufacturer's manual.
Chuck
As to the OP's original question about the sense that the vehicle is surging just before the brakes take hold, there are multiple discussions on this over at PriusChat. I frankly don't remember any surging sensation 4 yrs ago when I first took delivery of my 05, But if it's there I've certainly adjusted to it. The braking is as normal as the sun rising now.
In fact I find the brakes a lot better in the Toyota hybrids than most other cars for one very simple reason. When you go to brake a non-hybrid the ICE is still running, still driving the vehicle forward. Braking a non-hybrid requires the operator to overcome the ICE. In the Prius and other Toyota hybrids when the foot comes off the accelerator at ~40 mph and lower the ICE turns off, no forward pull.....sudden stops are more common IMO.
Thanks for any insight!
The original window sticker had been rated at 33City/28Hwy. The "adjusted" window sticker now reads 28City/25hwy.
What are you getting? Do you let the car "warm up" in the morning? Do you do a lot of city traffic "driving"? With lots of stops and starts? Do you drive faster than 60mph?
At most it is an "AGM" ( Absorption Glass Mat ) battery. It's a CAR, not a SPACE SHUTTLE!!! It powers the electronic control units. I'll bet SOMEONE makes a good battery for a whole lot less. $300? Does that include diagnosis and replacement labor? And disposal too?
I am considering buying a 06/07 HH with around 60k miles. 4x2. I had an 02 4cyl 4x2 model and consistently received 25 MPG. I loved it. I am looking to buy another Highlander and was toying with the idea of a hybrid. Never had one before and was a little concerned about maintenance, and if its really worth the extra $$ to buy, vs.just getting another 4 cyl. Some of the options I like are hard to find on 4 cyl, (sunroof, pwr seats, alloys). Can anyone share their experience with their HH as far as hybrid specific repairs past 50k mile range. Any special maintenance? Aside from the batteries which I thought are warrantied until 100,000 miles, is there anything else that could go wrong with the hybrid system that would cost an arm and a leg? If the electrical motor went out, or electronics, etc.
Hybrid technology has proven itself to be just as reliable as any modern powertrain. If you are concerned, get yourself an extended warranty that specifically cover these electronics, would be my advice.
If the car will not re-activate itself, or start, even after you have recharged the 12V battery, you'll have to flat-bed it to the dealership.
However, a trickle charger or 'tender' as shifty references is the way to go. I leave one on my motorcycle all winter long.