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I have a 2010 and my nav map shows icons for gas stations, restaurants, etc. I don't want these icons to show up but am having trouble removing them permanantly. Can anyone help with the instructions to do this?
Also, can anyone help me remove the split screen permanantly? Thanks,
For instance, the oil shield under the oil filter was ripped off by a crummy dirt road. The Honda dealer wanted $130 to put on a new one, a piece of $5 or $10 material bolted to the underbody, and they refused to tack on the old one, which could easily be done with plastic ties--you know, like give a little service to a long-standing customer.
That's just one example. I have many others and I will never buy a Honda again.
Has anyone heard of private car repair shops dealing with this yet to try and make the cost cheaper or are we still stuck with the dealer?
Thanks in advance for your help!
I would look up the dealership on some websites and see what others are saying about it before you take your car there for service. Some are great, and some are simply awful. (But be careful of 'shills' - people from the dealership or service shop that give it a great rating when the shop is not really so great...).
I buy my Hondas from the dealership with lousy service, because they are convenient and competitive. But I would not take a car there for service if there was any other alternative I could use.
I am an old guy, and I have had a lot of cars over a lot of years. Problems with automotive dealership service are not in any way unique to Honda. I also have a Pontiac and the local dealership (who now had to switch to Buick) has always done an excellent job here in Fort Myers Florida. They may charge 30% more than the private shops, but they seem to always do the job right. It just varies with the way the shop is managed - not necessarily with the brand of car.
I'm guessing that the answer is NO; that if a replacement is necessary, the entire pack has to be replaced, not one cell.
One reason is that the battery packs have a lot of inherent redundancy in them so that they can still function even with one or several cells dead. The battery electronics essentially takes a bad cell out of the circuit, which reduces the battery pack's capacity by a bit, but still allows it to function. This is to eliminate the need to replace a single cell.
Also, the voltage at places inside the battery pack is several hundred volts - deadly if you don't know what you're doing. So I suspect Honda and other hybrid makers do not want technicians used to dealing with 12V systems poking around inside a battery pack.
After returning home and checking online while the repairs were being done, I saw that Toyota doesn't recommend the timing belt replacement until 90k miles. I talked to the dealership manager about the difference in recommendations and he said that because we live in NJ that they are following "extreme conditions" suggestions which call for the earlier replacements.
I didn't buy his story and declined the emission service as well, thinking that it was bunk as well.
Has anyone else heard of this "extreme conditions" clause in timing belt replacement???
Always gotta ask - who's going to profit from this recommendation? In other words - just follow the money!
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I noticed that my solar driven cooling fan wasn't working this summer. I thought the fan had maybe died but then I looked at the solar panel and saw that green copper corrosion caused by long term moisture infiltration had shorted out the solar panel and it was unable to produce electricity anymore.
I had the Dealer look at the panel and by looking at the panel from a ladder he ascertained that the moisture infiltration had reached all the way across the panel to the rear as evidenced by the green corrosion of the wiring in the panel.
Now this just didn't happen overnight, but most likely, moisture had been infiltrating the panel for several years. There was no moisture visible in the pane, just the evidence of long term corrosion throughout the panel.
What I am saying is this. These panels were manufactured by an outside vendor for Toyota. If made properly, a solar panel should be hermetically sealed. Most solar panels normally have a useful life of 15 years. This panel was defective the day it was made and it just took 3 years for the corrosion to infiltrate deep enough to disable enough of the solar cells to render it inoperative.
The reason I tell you this is the solar option is an expensive option.($2000 replacement cost) If you are still in your warranty period I would suggest having the panel inspected for corrosion before you experience a failure. Once you know what to look for you can examine it yourself. Much like a hermetically sealed double pane house window there will be some clouding of the glass panel where the moisture has infiltrated.
In my case the infiltration appears to have been going on for years before total failure. Since it is tinted and part of the roof design you won't notice the subtle changes in the color unless you inspect the panel closely.
In conclusion, these panels should be waterproof and sealed during manufacture. If any moisture infiltrates by means other than from damage it is a design and/or manufacturing error.
I guess Toyota has made a corporate decision of "Buyer Beware". If Toyota installs a defective part in your new car and you don't find out until 9 days after the 3 years warranty is up it is just to bad for you. Even if it was defective before the warranty expired. Amazing! It is disappointing to see this attitude from a company I thought was known for quality and great customer service.
I asked them if I could appeal the decision and was told "No, I would have to pursue a remedy outside Toyota". In other words hire a lawyer or file in small claims court. What a craven answer.
I hope you folks don't have any problems with your Toyota after the paper warranty is up. Toyota appears not to care about or understand their customers. I t has become , in my opinion, a company run by bean counters and Lawyers.
I like my dealer and had planned on making Toyota my car of choice for the future , but after this experience I think I won't be buying any more of their cars.
We just purchased this car 2 days ago, and were given the "HARD sell" to purchase an extended warranty. What does anybody have for an opinion on this matter?
Thanks,
TT
Can I still go to my bank if I paid cash for the car? Can I go to your bank too?
Tommy
"INVERTER VOLTAGE FLUCTUATING AT AMD WIREFROM DC/DC CONVERTER. ~|~120488 INVERTER VOLTAGE FLUCT UATING AT AMDWIRE FROM DC/DC CON VERTER. 150 INVERTERNEEDS REPLA CEMENT."
They gave me an expensive estimate to repair it. Back then I didn't like the fact to pay such money for a part that still working. I thought I will repair it whenever it dies.
It is more than a year and half and I put more than 15000 miles on my car and the inverter is still working as before.
Anybody has the same problem? Does anyone know if my car really needs an inverter or it might be something simpler than that?
I would appreciate any thought.
I was offered a used 2008 Prius with good price. I have checked the CARFAX report for the car, and found the battery was replaced early this year. Is it ok to buy a Prius with replaced battery?
It looks the car was used for high miles for the life. So it has 90,000 miles now.
90K is 18 K a year which isn't bad, 1500 miles a month, 50 miles a day average
With a good price you probably should buy it.
I don't have the technical expertise to come up with an answer to how a still running but lame engine could destroy a hybrid battery system, but it does strike me as rather far-fetched.
So did this engine seize? Make horrible noises? Why couldn't they just replace the oil and see how it goes?
This description leaves a lot out, so I think you need to fill us in more.
I bought the part online and installed it myself, but I can't recall what they call the part. It
is situated on the chassis just in front of and to the right of the left rear wheel. None of the parts places I've called, including a Toyota dealer knows what the part is called. Help!
I asked Nissan Motors a question concerning their new Pathfinder Hybrid. It had to do with their Climate Control System operation. As I understand, the electric drive motor shuts off when the air conditioning portion of the CLS kicks in to cool off the interior of the car. This is because there is a drive belt from the compressor to the gas engine that operates the air conditioning. I asked Nissan if the heating portion of the CLS also shuts off the electric motor of the hybrid (if it does, this electric drive motor that helps to save gas and run your car...is off...and it would be off most of the time, thus making the hybrid useless). I stated to Nissan in my third e-mail, "I have been waiting at least 3 WEEKS for an answer to this question. This is not a difficult question. Either the electric motor shuts off or it does not under the conditions asked. A 2 minute inquiry. Every other question I have asked of Nissan was answered quickly. Not this one. Is it because the electric motor is continually shutting down under both warm and cool conditions thus making the hybrid useless? Please respond already. John". Someone please HELP with this question. :P
Tagged: Nissan Nissan Pathfinder Repairs & Maintenance Heating & Cooling 2014
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jssihsjssihs Posts: 3
January 27
Here's the answer I got from Nissan Motors, "When the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) is engaged the vehicle uses the gas engine and electric motor. When HVAC is engaged, the vehicle is programmed not to operate in EV (Electric Vehicle) only mode. Heater, as long as the AC compressor is not on, does not require the ICE to be on"...looks like I am good to go on buying a hybrid Nissan Pathfinder.
What do you all think?
I think I'd just start over at zero or perhaps 100k. Most old cars strand you for the same reasons newer ones do - lack of preventive maintenance.
With a miled up car, it'd be good to have a one-time thorough inspection, check the hoses and brake lines, figure out if the fluids need to be replaced, and check the suspension.