khaug's understanding parallels my own, mostly. Knock sensors in today's engines can change ignition timing (and probably some other things) to let the engine run on a variety of octanes, if so designed. Higher octane (in an engine with higher compression ratio) can produce more horsepower. However the higher octane fuel actually has less total energy and should yield slightly lower fuel mileage in ordinary driving. That presumes the engine is designed for the lower octane fuel and that you're not running the engine near it's peak horsepower. A good assumption, I suppose, unless you're trying to get a 4000 lb. trailer briskly up to highway speeds or up a hill!
Karl, corancher, thanks...getting closer to an answer...
I have to concur with corancher about MPG. I have calculated about .3 mpg better with 87 over the 93. It seems more logical that more performance and power=less mpg, but some will say otherwise, who knows...
Question: Is there any recommendation regarding the frequency of changing grades? (I'm talking Toyota specific here if anyone knows this engine really well.) I would like to experiment but again, I want to pamper my '03 and not be rough on her at all...
I have 2003 4 runner SR5 - no rear spoiler. Rear wiper works fine. Removes all water. I wonder - - - - To those where it does not work well, do you have a rear spoiler ?
I whined about this here a while back on my '03 V8 Limited and nobody else chimed in then. Yes it does have the rear spoiler, but the problem occurs at any speed including stopped.
My wiper behaves poorly (only making contact with the glass for the outer-most 2.5 inches or so) in cold weather (below freezing). I had it to the dealer and they sprayed WD40 into the pivot joint. That didn't help at all from what I have seen since then.
I'm going to play with it this weekend and I'll report back if I learn anything.
I have an SR5 and my rear wiper doesn't work very well either. It usually takes about 5 to 6 spray before the wiper starts to make contact with the glass, which is really bizard to me.
By the way, my light auto cut off system stopped working two weeks ago so I took it to the dealer this week. They reset the computer and now it is back to normal...I have no idea what happened. I sure hope rebooting my car computer doesn't become common practice.
burt2 reflected on issue with Edmunds that I agree with. I no longer Use Edmunds site when I am trying to find out what a vehicle costs, because Edmunds no longer lists all the options available. Seems like they pick the most popular. Or is someone just not doing there job.
I, like burt2, use Kelley Blue Book research site to find all the options that I am looking for. Edmunds used to do real well at reporting all options. But this past model year, they are missing a lot, and not just on the 4Runner, but also on several other vehicles. Check it out to see what I mean. Use the 4Runner. You will really see the difference.
Do you guys have any influence to get this corrected? Sure would be nice. I do like Edmunds site.
I share the same problem. My 2003 SR5 doesn't have the spoiler but my rear wiper performs quite poorly. Using a clock face metaphor, if the wiper sweep is from 3 - 9 o'clock , it misses about two inches at the 12 noon position.
My last 4Runner also had similar performance but it wasn't this bad. It may have something to do with a combination of wind lift and the way the off glass wiper parking position. There is also the fact that this is winter and the wiper rubber is cold.
I have a V8 03 4runner and the service manual suggests servicing at 5000 or 7500 depending on driving style and conditions. I have always been one to service my vehicles at 3500. Should I go by the manual with my new Toyota? Also does the 4runner have a service reminder that is computer programed?
My rear wiper seams to work OK. It does touch the glass all through it's sweep. I only have a little over 2K miles on my 03 V-8 Sport. The rear wiper may become old and non resilient at early age. There is some "Maintenance required" light that comes on at 7500 mile intervals. I have yet to see it, but read in my owners manual that the way you turn it off is by holding in the odometer"reset " button while the engine is off. Turn on the engine while holding the "reset" button until the "Maintenance Req'd" light is off. I had a 99 Honda that worked the same way. I figured I would do oil changes at the 5,000 mile interval for severe driving conditions. I'm taking it to the outer banks in NC in 3 weeks, and may go play on the beach with it. Even if that's not severe, I think 3 oil changes vice 2 every 15,000 miles is cheap engine insurance.
22. Why doesn't Edmunds.com list option prices for some makes and models?
Almost all Acura, Honda, and Suzuki options are dealer-installed. Some manufacturers, like Nissan, Subaru, Toyota and Volvo, will offer both factory- and dealer-installed options. Pricing for these items can vary depending on region and dealer. Therefore, it is impossible for Edmunds.com to list an accurate price for these items. Our experience shows that these items often carry a 100-percent markup in dealer profit. We recommend that you avoid buying dealer-installed options if you can help it.
I have an 03 LTD, rear spoiler. So far the rear wiper has worked fine. Seems to take it a little long to get the washer fluid over the rear window, though.
As for the service intervals, I was told 7500 or every 4 months when I picked up the vehicle. On average, I'm not going to be driving it nearly that much. Is the timing important, or can I just go by miles? I've generally tended to do the latter with other vehicles. How will this affect the warranty? I might make more than 7500 miles this year, but in other years where I'm not doing 3 or 4 road trips, it may only be 5000 miles or so.
Steve, the options I am referring to are factory installed options that are available through out the country. Not dealer installed options. I am also aware of regions offering different options and packages. But, you know, KBB shows those regions different options. Why cannot Edmunds do the same? Or at least just give us the standard factory options available like they used to do.
Yeah, I knew that :-). I read the FAQ to mean the Toyota factory option prices can also vary. You'll get an automated response from the Feedback form, and hopefully, a "real" one.
I don't know how the data people keep up with all this stuff in the first place, not to mention trying to track all the incentives that seem to change every week.
I have had my 2003 Sport for 1 month now and decided to check the spare tire/wheel and see how the storage mechanism worked. What I found was that the points of contact between the tire side wall and the underside of the truck have rubbed depressions into the tire. Several of them appear to have actually cut into the surface of the rubber. The ones on the left and right side of the truck are the worst while the front and rear points are not as bad.
Has anyone else seen this problem ? I do not believe the spare was loose and sliding around. The steel frame members are just too sharp to be in contact with the rubber under pressure. There should be some type of shield at the contact points to distribute the pressure more evenly.
I would appreciate any feedback from others if you do or do not see this problem.
Try a search for "spare" in the Tires, tires, tires discussion. There was a thread about this issue within the last month or so. It's late or I'd dig it up for you :-)
Well, my husband and I just inherited (from Dad/Brother) a 1970 Fiberform (tri-hull) 18ft boat (3500 lbs) that has been restored. My vehicle came equipped with the factory 5,000 lb hitch,so, can I assume that this vehicle could safely tow this boat back and forth to the lake without any issues? We don't want to go to alot of expense in order to tow this thing,but, I want to make sure that I won't kill the tranny, etc..on my brand new vehicle...
I haven't read all 5,198 posts so I don't know if this topic has been covered. I tried to change the oil on my wife's 97 Limited and getting to the oil filter was a beast. I have changed the oil myself in every vehicle I have owned and this was the worst. I bet it took 10 minutes of searching with a flashlight before I could even find the filter. After using 2 filter wrenches and a craftsman strap wrench I still could not get into a position to remove the filter. Does anyone have a suggestion beside going to Jiffy lube on how to get the filter off.
Anyone notice the location of the oil filter for the new 4.0 V6? Nicely thought out. It sits right on top of the engine in the front. Just open the hood and there it is. Similar to some MB's. Should make things a lot easier for oil changes.
Use a good strap wrench, like one from NAPA, that properly fits the filter. With the filters position, it's very easy to tighten when you mean to loosen. I agree, it's the toughest of all cars I've encountered.
I use Schaeffers #703 blend with an AC Delco UltraGuard filter every 8k because 4k changes would be a bear.
It is hard to get at the filter. I use a Toyota filter and filter cap that fits on top of the filter. The cap attaches to a socket wrench. Even with that it is a pain. I have really long arms and it is hard to reach. I sometimes put one hand through the edge of the plastic canvas type material that is next to the filter with my other hand.
When I changed the first filter (new) it was the Japanese version of the filter and the filter cap did not work. I had to use a hammer and screw driver to get the #@#$ thing off.
I have also read some people take off the skid plates to get to the filter. I now have gotten pretty good at changing the filter. If you have ramps, it is best not driving all the way up, or you can even change it without ramps. If you get the 4Runner too high up, it becomes harder to reach. Bottom line, it is a real pain.
I think I will try one of those caps that fit on the end of the filter. I think that might work. But I am glad other people are having as much trouble as I am. Makes me wish I had two Land Rovers. The filter on my Defender is right up front, grab it with two hands and off it comes. I also have about 2 feet of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the engine so that helps. nice and easy to roll around under there. I'm not giving up on the 4 Runner though. Looks like future oil chnages will be about 3-4 beer jobs though....
Anyone have some advice on turning off the unlock/lock chirp on the keyless remote action. I would like to keep the door ajar buzzer though, i.e., when you lock it and the door is ajar it buzzes at you.
Oil changes...my '98 was a bear and so is an '03 V8. Your best to take off the skid plate, otherwise oil will drip on the plate and do a slow drip off that for a few weeks.
You are all set for towing. I would actually be surprised if an 18" tri-hull weighed 3500 pounds but even if it does, you need nothing but a ball mount of the correct height and the correct wiring harness.
The only thing I will suggest is that you keep the Runner out of overdrive. That means 5th if you have the V8 and 4th with the V6. Even with a transmission cooler, you will be FAR better off in the long run. Your engine will rev higher but your transmission will work much less and stay cooler.
I took my Sport into the dealer to have the lock/unlock chirp turned off. I was the first person to request it (this was back in early Dec) so they had to download new codes for their computer. But it didn't take long and they were kind enough to do it for free. I asked that all the other alarms/chirps be left as is. (I haven't actually tested the door ajar buzzer, though.)
Kim47, that's cool that the dealer could download new codes for you.
I wonder if dealers could download the codes that are available for Japanese 4Runners (they're called Surfs, I think) to allow the customer to open and close all windows at once using the remote control.
I went to installed a basket on the roof today and discovered that the black rubber strip that runs the length of the roof was loose and coming off. I asumed this is not normal....I guess it be going to the dealer.
I agree, that filter is a SOB! Here's a couple of suggestions that served me well for the 5 years we had our '98:
-Permanently remove the rear segment of the skid plate. This makes it much easier to remove and replace the part under the oil filter.
-I used a "cam-lock" filter wrench which would tighten up and grab the filter when it was turned counterclockwise. This slips on the end of the filter like a cap-type, and is driven with a 3/8" extension. With about 18" worth of extension, the wrench could be turned by inserting the extension through gaps in the rubber splash guard inboard of the left front wheel after fitting the wrench onto the oil filter.
I envy the new V6 owners their intelligently engineered oil filter location. I haven't changed the filter on our '03 V8 yet, but it looks about as much a PITA as the '98's was.
In respect to the towing advice, I did not know if you remembered that I had an 02' not an 03 V6 or V8...So, I did not know if that made a difference concerning the powerband? So, driving with the OD off would overheat the tranny? I am assuming that since the convenience pkg is installed on my veh and that happened to include a hitch/wiring, that Toyota does not install tranny coolers on them?
Okay, enough already! I went out and checked it myself. The lights do not come on just by opening the rear window. They will come on if you unlock the vehicle by the remote or door lock AND you have the overhead light set to the "Door" position. So if you want the light on when you lower the window, you will also have to unlock the vehicle.
On the '02, you still have a tranny cooler. You should still keep the OD off to prevent overheating. I can't stress that one enough. Keep the OD off when towing!
Sovang et al, Just took delivery on my LTD 6. Very impressive. More on that later. I did notice yesterday that the plastic/rubber strip was loose. It appears to be a lousy design as opposed to bad istallation. Not a biggie...I'll let the dealer worry about it. Let me know what your dealer does with it.
Also, I noticed the rainbow effect on the rear wiper. It's intermittent. Not a big deal so long as they can fix it.
Those are the only two things I can criticize on this vehicle. Fit and finish are excellent. Quiet! The six has more than enough power and pickup. Very smooth shifting from the tranny. At 130 miles, I really like this thing. Hope I can say the same at 100,130.
As soon as I run some gas through, I'll be back with some mpg numbers.
Thanks for information. I was wondering when someone was going to answer my simple question. I would think having the lights come on and stay on until the window is closed would be a valuable feature when loading small items through the opening in the dark.
The plastic strip on mine matches your description as well in turns of it being loose. I don't know if this is a design flaw or not, but in my case, the part that is right next to the front wind shield physically came off. The dealer has ordered a new one to replace it. I guess we will all find out soon enough whether the strip will be a problem or not.
Has anyone here taken their 03 off-road? Obviously Toyota advertises it's off-road prowess, but I'd like to hear some real world experiences. Do you think the 4Runner would be better than a Jeep Liberty off-road? Liberty is smaller and lighter so that should be an advantage, but it doesn't seem to have as much technology as the new 4Runner.
Appreciate your honest thoughts. I am shopping, and off-road ability will count in my evaluation, unfortunately can't check this out on the test drive!
I am not expert on off roading, but I traded an Xterra for my 2003 4runner. Since I don't have a Jeep Liberty to compare, all I can say I like my Xterra better for off roading because it is smaller. I don't know where you live, but here in Colorado, some of the trails are pretty tight and very rocky so the smaller size and shorter wheel base is better IMHO. On the other hand, the 4runner was much more comfortable. As for the Down and up hill assist, I didn't find them to be too useful.
BTW, since this is still winter, I didn't get to try very difficult trail yet--just easy to moderate.
Rented a 2003 V6 SR5 2X4 last week. Had 1972 miles on it at pickup. Trip of 964 miles used 43.081 gallons and averaged out to 22.376 mpg. Driving conditions were cool weather (temp- 30s to 60s), dry roads with about half of miles on interstate at 80mph and other half Natchez Trace Parkway and 2 lane state roads at 50 to 70 mph.
Handling was excellent with 2 people on board plus luggage plus tool case and spare equipment for my work just in case I got called out over the weekend (did not want to drive back to New Orleans to get company van and then back to Natchez or Vicksburg to do job). Did a good job on the 2 lane state roads which can be very curvey and in some areas very steep with hills close together like a roller coaster ride. It did shift to a lower gear on the longer steep climbs but then went back to OD when it reached the set cruising speed.
I will report back when we get our own vehicle which should be soon as the drive was mainly for my wife to evaluate the car (she will be using it most of the time and I get to drive it on vacations and special occasions). Now she is as excited about it as I have been and is willing to spend the money.
I haven't taken the 2003 into anything really serious, but I did have a little fun in the back parking lot of our dealership. We have a dirt parking lot with a drainage "pond" in the back. The "pond" is hole in the ground about 6 feet deep and never has any water in it. It is overgrown with weeks.
A few of our salesmen were asking me to explain DAC and HAC. I took three of them out with me. I put it into 4 LO but kept the center differential unlocked. I moved to the edge of the hole and idled over the edge. The bank is VERY steep and it took all the restraint I had to keep my foot off the brake. The system worked. Just as I was about to hit the bottom, my speed reached the threshold for the DAC to kick in. I felt and heard it engage and I made a nice, soft landing at the bottom.
Next, I turned around and took it out of the low gear range. I drove half way up the bank and stopped. I then released the brake but didn't hit the gas immediately. I did start to slip back but the brakes kicked in and slowed the backwards progress. When I did hit the gas, it was decidedly more controlled than if this system didn't exist.
I tried the same uphill experiment in the low gears range. There is so much torque from the V8 that even without touching the gas, I made forward progress.
Scroll back a couple of weeks for my description of how it handled this same lot after the big snow.
One thing I noticed in the owner's manual was that it says to ONLY put chains on the rear wheels. I'm not a big off-roader anymore, and I'll probably never put chains on my '03 V8 Limited but...
It seems like they broke from their "this is still a real 4WD with body-on-frame and 4 low" theme on this. Maybe they had to make the front wheel wells smaller to get the V8 in.
Bought my 03 Sport Edition with V8 back two months ago. Now have 2,367 miles on it and have tracked gas use (at the pump) religiously. I live in Colorado and use 85 octane, with about 1/2 my driving being city and the other half on city expressway (55-75mph but lots of stop & go traffic). The best mileage on a tank of gas has been 18.7mpg and the worst is 16.5mpg. Overall average to date is 17.0mpg.
No problem at all with 85 octane. The V8 has all of the power I want and no hint that is thirsty for something richer. I live in the foothills outside Colorado Springs and it climbs those hills quite nicely. Even towed a 2200 lb popup camper that we just bought, from Aurora to here, and nary a sign that higher octane would be necessary.
The manual only talks about opening the rear window with the remote, not closing. The switch does not appear to toggle, it just beeps when you push the button with the rear window open.
Am I missing something - can the rear window be closed from the remote or is your only option (from outside the vehicle) using the key?
This is one of the most polite, helpful forums at Edmunds. I used to hang out in the vans forum when I had my Odyssey. It's like night and day. I am really glad I bought a 4runner.
Seems like there are a lot of CO owners in here. Good to know about the 85 octane, I've been using 87 so far in my '03 LTD V8.
I do actually want to do some easy to moderate offroading in this vehicle. I'll probably get some guidebooks to Colorado trails first. If I didn't want to offroad, I think I'd have been better off in a minivan (yeech) - better mileage, more room, just as comfortable.
Unfortunately, my windshield has already developed a 10 inch crack in the lower left corner (probably due to being pelted with rocks and sand from snowstorms a couple weeks ago). The auto glass place says the windshield for the '03 with the special mirror on the LTD can only be obtained from the dealer, and they're backordered a couple weeks. Any idea why these windshields are backordered? Just because it's a new model? Thankfully, I have full glass coverage - learned that lesson after having the windshield on my Audi replaced twice within about 3 weeks due to rocks/cracks.
Comments
Higher octane (in an engine with higher compression ratio) can produce more horsepower. However the higher octane fuel actually has less total energy and should yield slightly lower fuel mileage in ordinary driving.
That presumes the engine is designed for the lower octane fuel and that you're not running the engine near it's peak horsepower. A good assumption, I suppose, unless you're trying to get a 4000 lb. trailer briskly up to highway speeds or up a hill!
I have to concur with corancher about MPG. I have calculated about .3 mpg better with 87 over the 93. It seems more logical that more performance and power=less mpg, but some will say otherwise, who knows...
Question: Is there any recommendation regarding the frequency of changing grades? (I'm talking Toyota specific here if anyone knows this engine really well.) I would like to experiment but again, I want to pamper my '03 and not be rough on her at all...
My wiper behaves poorly (only making contact with the glass for the outer-most 2.5 inches or so) in cold weather (below freezing). I had it to the dealer and they sprayed WD40 into the pivot joint. That didn't help at all from what I have seen since then.
I'm going to play with it this weekend and I'll report back if I learn anything.
-Eric
By the way, my light auto cut off system stopped working two weeks ago so I took it to the dealer this week. They reset the computer and now it is back to normal...I have no idea what happened. I sure hope rebooting my car computer doesn't become common practice.
SV
I, like burt2, use Kelley Blue Book research site to find all the options that I am looking for. Edmunds used to do real well at reporting all options. But this past model year, they are missing a lot, and not just on the 4Runner, but also on several other vehicles. Check it out to see what I mean. Use the 4Runner. You will really see the difference.
Do you guys have any influence to get this corrected? Sure would be nice. I do like Edmunds site.
My last 4Runner also had similar performance but it wasn't this bad. It may have something to do with a combination of wind lift and the way the off glass wiper parking position. There is also the fact that this is winter and the wiper rubber is cold.
There is some "Maintenance required" light that comes on at 7500 mile intervals. I have yet to see it, but read in my owners manual that the way you turn it off is by holding in the odometer"reset " button while the engine is off. Turn on the engine while holding the "reset" button until the "Maintenance Req'd" light is off. I had a 99 Honda that worked the same way.
I figured I would do oil changes at the 5,000 mile interval for severe driving conditions. I'm taking it to the outer banks in NC in 3 weeks, and may go play on the beach with it.
Even if that's not severe, I think 3 oil changes vice 2 every 15,000 miles is cheap engine insurance.
tidester, host
22. Why doesn't Edmunds.com list option prices for some makes and models?
Almost all Acura, Honda, and Suzuki options are dealer-installed. Some manufacturers, like Nissan, Subaru, Toyota and Volvo, will offer both factory- and dealer-installed options. Pricing for these items can vary depending on region and dealer. Therefore, it is impossible for Edmunds.com to list an accurate price for these items. Our experience shows that these items often carry a 100-percent markup in dealer profit. We recommend that you avoid buying dealer-installed options if you can help it.
FAQ
Steve, Host
As for the service intervals, I was told 7500 or every 4 months when I picked up the vehicle. On average, I'm not going to be driving it nearly that much. Is the timing important, or can I just go by miles? I've generally tended to do the latter with other vehicles. How will this affect the warranty? I might make more than 7500 miles this year, but in other years where I'm not doing 3 or 4 road trips, it may only be 5000 miles or so.
Steve, the options I am referring to are factory installed options that are available through out the country. Not dealer installed options. I am also aware of regions offering different options and packages. But, you know, KBB shows those regions different options. Why cannot Edmunds do the same? Or at least just give us the standard factory options available like they used to do.
I don't know how the data people keep up with all this stuff in the first place, not to mention trying to track all the incentives that seem to change every week.
Steve, Host
Has anyone else seen this problem ? I do not believe the spare was loose and sliding around. The steel frame members are just too sharp to be in contact with the rubber under pressure. There should be some type of shield at the contact points to distribute the pressure more evenly.
I would appreciate any feedback from others if you do or do not see this problem.
Thanks.
Steve, Host
I use Schaeffers #703 blend with an AC Delco UltraGuard filter every 8k because 4k changes would be a bear.
Good luck,
Jack
When I changed the first filter (new) it was the Japanese version of the filter and the filter cap did not work. I had to use a hammer and screw driver to get the #@#$ thing off.
I have also read some people take off the skid plates to get to the filter. I now have gotten pretty good at changing the filter. If you have ramps, it is best not driving all the way up, or you can even change it without ramps. If you get the 4Runner too high up, it becomes harder to reach. Bottom line, it is a real pain.
I would like to keep the door ajar buzzer though, i.e., when you lock it and the door is ajar it buzzes at you.
Oil changes...my '98 was a bear and so is an '03 V8. Your best to take off the skid plate, otherwise oil will drip on the plate and do a slow drip off that for a few weeks.
The only thing I will suggest is that you keep the Runner out of overdrive. That means 5th if you have the V8 and 4th with the V6. Even with a transmission cooler, you will be FAR better off in the long run. Your engine will rev higher but your transmission will work much less and stay cooler.
I wonder if dealers could download the codes that are available for Japanese 4Runners (they're called Surfs, I think) to allow the customer to open and close all windows at once using the remote control.
Does anyone have this problem?
SV
-Permanently remove the rear segment of the skid plate. This makes it much easier to remove and replace the part under the oil filter.
-I used a "cam-lock" filter wrench which would tighten up and grab the filter when it was turned counterclockwise. This slips on the end of the filter like a cap-type, and is driven with a 3/8" extension. With about 18" worth of extension, the wrench could be turned by inserting the extension through gaps in the rubber splash guard inboard of the left front wheel after fitting the wrench onto the oil filter.
I envy the new V6 owners their intelligently engineered oil filter location. I haven't changed the filter on our '03 V8 yet, but it looks about as much a PITA as the '98's was.
-Karl
Also, I noticed the rainbow effect on the rear wiper. It's intermittent. Not a big deal so long as they can fix it.
Those are the only two things I can criticize on this vehicle. Fit and finish are excellent. Quiet! The six has more than enough power and pickup. Very smooth shifting from the tranny. At 130 miles, I really like this thing. Hope I can say the same at 100,130.
As soon as I run some gas through, I'll be back with some mpg numbers.
JC
The plastic strip on mine matches your description as well in turns of it being loose. I don't know if this is a design flaw or not, but in my case, the part that is right next to the front wind shield physically came off. The dealer has ordered a new one to replace it. I guess we will all find out soon enough whether the strip will be a problem or not.
SV
Appreciate your honest thoughts. I am shopping, and off-road ability will count in my evaluation, unfortunately can't check this out on the test drive!
BTW, since this is still winter, I didn't get to try very difficult trail yet--just easy to moderate.
Handling was excellent with 2 people on board plus luggage plus tool case and spare equipment for my work just in case I got called out over the weekend (did not want to drive back to New Orleans to get company van and then back to Natchez or Vicksburg to do job). Did a good job on the 2 lane state roads which can be very curvey and in some areas very steep with hills close together like a roller coaster ride. It did shift to a lower gear on the longer steep climbs but then went back to OD when it reached the set cruising speed.
I will report back when we get our own vehicle which should be soon as the drive was mainly for my wife to evaluate the car (she will be using it most of the time and I get to drive it on vacations and special occasions). Now she is as excited about it as I have been and is willing to spend the money.
Roger
A few of our salesmen were asking me to explain DAC and HAC. I took three of them out with me. I put it into 4 LO but kept the center differential unlocked. I moved to the edge of the hole and idled over the edge. The bank is VERY steep and it took all the restraint I had to keep my foot off the brake. The system worked. Just as I was about to hit the bottom, my speed reached the threshold for the DAC to kick in. I felt and heard it engage and I made a nice, soft landing at the bottom.
Next, I turned around and took it out of the low gear range. I drove half way up the bank and stopped. I then released the brake but didn't hit the gas immediately. I did start to slip back but the brakes kicked in and slowed the backwards progress. When I did hit the gas, it was decidedly more controlled than if this system didn't exist.
I tried the same uphill experiment in the low gears range. There is so much torque from the V8 that even without touching the gas, I made forward progress.
Scroll back a couple of weeks for my description of how it handled this same lot after the big snow.
It seems like they broke from their "this is still a real 4WD with body-on-frame and 4 low" theme on this. Maybe they had to make the front wheel wells smaller to get the V8 in.
Thoughts?
-Eric
Hope that helps someone.
I also live in CO and have been wondering whether to use 85 octane gas or not. I assumed you have not encountered any problems.
SV
Am I missing something - can the rear window be closed from the remote or is your only option (from outside the vehicle) using the key?
I used to hang out in the vans forum when I had my Odyssey. It's like night and day.
I am really glad I bought a 4runner.
I do actually want to do some easy to moderate offroading in this vehicle. I'll probably get some guidebooks to Colorado trails first. If I didn't want to offroad, I think I'd have been better off in a minivan (yeech) - better mileage, more room, just as comfortable.
Unfortunately, my windshield has already developed a 10 inch crack in the lower left corner (probably due to being pelted with rocks and sand from snowstorms a couple weeks ago). The auto glass place says the windshield for the '03 with the special mirror on the LTD can only be obtained from the dealer, and they're backordered a couple weeks. Any idea why these windshields are backordered? Just because it's a new model? Thankfully, I have full glass coverage - learned that lesson after having the windshield on my Audi replaced twice within about 3 weeks due to rocks/cracks.