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.Does anyone know if this problem exists from day one on the vehicle, or is it something that develops after some usage/miles? Also, how many have experienced this problem?
Your responses will be very helpful and are appreciated.
Thank You
More and more people are looking for the left pull, so it's quite possible that the dealership is aware of which models that have been passed over and will try to move them first.
On mine if you keep both hands on the wheel it's hard to feel the fatigue from short 50 mile jaunt.
One handed is a workout in isometrics and the constant CW pressure that you must exert will get your attention fairly quick on relatively straight roads.
http://www.businessweek.com/news/2010-09-27/hyundai-motor-to-recall-sonata-in-u-- s-over-steering.html
Your dealer will more than likely tell you that they've never heard of such, will check alignment/rotated tyres and call it good to go.
More than likely it will still pull left even though they over-inflated the left/under-inflated the right side by 2-4 PSI trying to coerce the car back to the right/center.
Then when you go back because it still pulls they'll explain their idea of torque-steer, this is normal, EPS doesn't feel the same, you're crazy and how they can make the Sonata go left or right.
They might tell you that your car is special and needs an adjustable camber bolt &/or the magic oblong mounting hole left strut for more camber than originally specified that may or may not push harder than the pull.
Good luck and keep us posted.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showforum=129
At the top pinned: Pulling problems, 616 posts and 20,453 views.
Apparently GM and Ford have come out with a "HiPer Strut" that helps with the annoying tug on the steering wheel and keeps the car from drifting off to any one direction.
My thoughts are this could be the solution that Hyundai needs to fix the left pull issue.
http://m.caranddriver.com/feature.rbml?id=382146&full=true
But that is not the issue in these 'pull' posts. These cars pull to the left just driving along or even decelerating.
Remember test drive the car in the highway over 60m/h before you take it home. ( even though you tested one before still test the one you are taking home) .
Hyundai i40 Tourer
I also have 4 new tires (Yokahama Avid EnVigor) on the car. This was another item that Hyundai has done to try fix the left pull issue.
2nd visit: replacement of the steering column assembly as well as a realignment due to the steering wheel being off center, and re-set the electronic steering control.
3rd visit: new strut and alignment.
Any change? None. Still drifts...
Dealer continues to be gracious, accommodating, concerned, but answerless.
Really, really hope they figure this out soon. I think it just has to be in the ESC software....
I have read other threads regarding the struts and alignment, but different tires are interesting. Are these new tires still the low profile ones ( if that is the correct term) and did hyundia replace these under warranty??
I have a 2011 Limited Turbo, purchased Nov. 2010. I don't underdstand why some one isn't attempting to narrow down those cars with the problem, and those w/o. I read that others with the same model have no problem with the pull.
There have been posts in this forum talking about effected percentage vs. total manufactured.
I don't think you can tell the exact numbers by who posts here since my belief is the vast majority don’t post their issues here.
The severity depends since some folks have a really bad lefty car and others have less.
There is no real fix except numerous visits to the dealership where they try a whole host of adjustments and swapping out parts.
Hyundai Sonata 2006-2007
#7508 of 7852 GLS problem by gandb777
Nov 25, 2007 (4:57 am)
"...... If so than the Hyundai rep wasn't being honest with me. If this problem occurs in all 2007 Hyundai GLS's then Hyundai has a problem they're not addressing. In any case, after buying two 2007 Sonatas based in large part on their warranty claims, I feel like I made a mistake. Based on this experience I will never purchase another Hyundai product."
So after all that grief Hyundai supposedly put you through with that Sonata, and all the dishonesty and lack of service on their part which we were told about, now you're back to consider buying a 2011 Sonata?
swift move= had it upgraded but screwed all 1st customers by not replacing dangerous horns ???? This is far from the first time, let the loyal customer be screwed has been the policy
at hyundai. Thats why the suspension defect has buried the Genesis. resale has dropped like a stone. Now bury the Sonata with unsolved steering problems, bad horns etc. shame on you!
https://www.myhyundai.com/page/model-specifications-default
http://www.hyundainews.com/Auto_Show_News/New_York_Auto_Show/2011_Sonata_2.0T/Pr- ess_Release.asp
The models w/225/45-18 tyres are louder. Overall my 2.0T LTD is quiet save for some rougher roads then the tyres accentuate the nosie, but nothing like mud grips.
I noticed the SE turbo had a clicking sound that became quieter as it warmed up. I attribut that to gas w/ethenol as I run gas that doesn't contain any corn squeezin's and it doesn't click even when below freezing.
Some had a problem w/temporary noise coming from the wastegate, but mine is quiet w/hood opened started cold.
This forum is for the 2.0T models and other sub-forums address the 2.4 models.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/f129-sonata-yf-turbo.htm
She likes her car. No complaints so far..
Hood up or down I don't hear it from inside the LTD, but I did hear it on a SE model at the lot.
Granted, I was born in the late 50's and don't have the hearing of a teenager anymore, so the noise might be more noticable to others.
All I can suggest is to try various combinations, ECO on/oof, w/ESC off/on, try manual shift anything to ty to hlp isolate what might be the problem.
Almost sounds like a short. Good luck
This is a very common fail mode for a weak, but not dead sensor or magnet. And I will retract my earlier statement, it is entirely possible that the replacement sensor is also weak. It happens. And the description you give of the engine running fine after cycling the ignition is also a clue. Some faults are reset when the engine is turned off and restarted. The code is still stored in the memory, but the engine will run fine until it happens again.
GM had this same exact problem back in the 80's. Those were a bit more dramatic, though. You would be driving down the road and the engine would just quit. If you turned the key completely off, the engine would restart as though nothing had happened. If you tried to restart the car without first turning the ignition completely off, it would not restart.
Don't get down on your dealer yet. He changed the most likely cause of the fault. Now comes the fun part of determining if there is another issue in the circuit, or if the replacement part is also bad.
:sick:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t59891-i-came-up-wleft-pull-fix-but-hyundai-isn39t- - -interested.htm
Fifty lbs in the right rear trunk eliminated the left pull.
Believe it or not fact is stranger than fiction.
I advocate moving the battery and bracket from the left side under the hood to the right rear in the trunk.
Replacing the defunct strut, alignments, resetting steering settings & changing out tires with directional tires helps. At least it did help me.
At this time we are all stuck with the lefty car untill Hyundai comes out with an official recall and a permanent fix.
My fix is as valid and quite possibly more so than the Hyundai dealer fix.
Try being more pro-active in researching results, looking for answers instead of spreading negativity that you cannot defend.
Your fast and loose play w/word defunct is more than questionable due in part to the fact that there's nothing wrong w/left struts.
The replacement has an oblong mounting hole trying to squeeze more camber adjustment, but this doesn't disqualify the original strut or qualify it as defective.
Hyundai is attempting to use an altered strut to alter the front suspension geometry in order to compensate for something else.
The mechanic said 3 out of 5 sonatas have the same problem .
I would never buy hyundai again .
I'm riding arund w/50 LBS of weight at the right rear in the trunk to stop the pull.
I'm not thrilled about toting the extra weight, but I like the pull gone...
1. Stiff brake pedal after car sits overnight, which is likely a slow vacuum leak. Dealer says this is normal and all Sonata do this.
2. Rattles. Glove box, upper right dash.
3. Needed to fill antifreeze reservoir by 1/4 3 times so far in my 8k so far. No leaks on the garage. No white plumes of steam out of the tail pipe. Dealer sees no problem with this refill rate of antifreeze. This maybe a slow leak internal to the engine. Oil has a blue green tint, same color as hyundai antifreeze.
Will need to push hyundai to perform some sort of test on the oil, to verify presence of antifreeze.
This is our first hyundai. We considered the genesis, but due to lack of refinement (heavy steering, some cheap interior bits, but beautiful exterior), we bought the sonata as it's a better car relative to it's respective competitors. It looks like most folks are doing fine with their sonatas but we got a lemon. Our intention was to get an affordable reliable car for our daughter. We will see how hyundai corporation backs their product.
One ongoing problem that I had with my Sonata was the rattles in the glove box and upper right dash. There was a TSB issued concerning the glovebox. Basically this involved adding some two way tape on the sides of the glovebox. This did not solve my rattle problem. In fact my car's rattle sounded like the car was coming apart.
After 4 visits, I finally insisted that the dealership contact Hyundai to get this resolved. After a few weeks, an engineer was able to check out my car and found out that the hood was not mounted properly at the factory. The hinge on the righ (passenger side) was not alligned and so my car made creaking, rattling, groaning noises like it was not put together well. In order to fix this, they had to remove the hood, and part of the cover, not sure what it is called, located in the engine compartment near the windshield. Once this was done, I have not had any further problems.
I also had issues with weak spots in the leater seating in the right front pax seat and back seat. New leather was ordered and those bad areas were replaced.
So far, everything is fine now with the car. Luckily I have not experienced the left pull problems that so many others have reported. I would definately suggest that Hyundai Corp be involved if the dealership cannot repair the vehicle properly.
Good Luck.
I am also Honda Accord owner whose transmission conked out at 70k and it was out of warranty, but Honda agreed to pay $2,400 and I paid $1,200. At that time I was mad as hell but realized that at least they helped me out, Toyota on other hand would NOT replace a $5 latch when my Camry was a month out of warranty. Honda does make reliable cars and every major brand will have percentage of cars with flaws and as consumer all you can do is buy a well rated car with good warranty.
I like the Hyundai Sonata and its excellent warranty, except the 2011 Sonata is intro model and I will wait for 2012 for flaws to be weeded out.
Silly person, those comparisons were for interior volume, as in - a measurement of capacity. Not decibel levels. You think the Sonata's cabin noise reaches 120 decibels?!! That's almost as laughable as your ridiculous left pull "fix". Now, resume being your usual ridiculously laughable self...or, you can start making sense.
Given that this is your first post, one would think that you would try harder to make a good impression.