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Comments
Why is it a long weekend of work? I mean, why longer than any other weekend?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
In practice, you normally use two people. One to slowly depress the pedal to the floor (and top up the master cylinder reservoir as you progress), the other to systematically loosen and tighten the bleed nipple.
You start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder, usually the PSR. With a short length of clear plastic tube over the bleed nipple to direct the waste fluid into a container, you slacken the nipple. The pedal is then depressed until it nears the floor, at which time the nipple should be closed. If you wait till the pedal reaches the end of its stroke the fluid will no longer be under pressure and air could be sucked back into the system through the nipple.
Continue like this until clear fluid comes through, then move to the DSR, PSF then finally DSF.
I prefer to work on my own, so I use a pressure bleeder like this one:
This forces fluid through the system under pressure, so all I have to do is open and shut the nipples. There are also devices that will suck the fluid through the nipples using a vacuum. Finally, you can buy one way valves that either replace or fit onto the nipples, enabling you to pump the pedal yourself.
Darn, you got me again! Old people get their spelling and/or their words mixed up, Mac!
Thanks, for yet another great post. Good info, as always.
How much new fluid will I go through with the standard bleeding technique before I truly purge out all of the old fluid?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
:--)
Anyhow, I always use a sealed 32 fl.oz. bottle of Valvoline SynPower Brake Fluid. It exceeds the required specs and costs around $5. I suggest you buy two, just in case you mess up. If the second one is unused it'll happily sit on the shelf until the next time (as long as you leave it sealed).
That why we provide senior discounts for using the spell checker at the bottom of this page! ;-)
tidester, host
I have a 2001 Wrangler, 4.0 and auto tranny. In colder weather, and when the transmission is cold, it does not downshift or downshifts after being stopped for awhile or when taking off from a stop. The dealer is scratching his head, and I have found no TSB on it. It sometimes shifts very hard when moving into reverse or drive as well, but I dont know if that is related or normal.
Once the transmission is warm, it seems to shift fine (I could nitpick about it hunting for gears sometimes, but that is probably normal). I suspect that over time, the transmission will fail to downshift completely, and would like to be able to give the dealer some idea where to look for trouble. I report it everytime I take it in for service so at least I have it on record in case it goes out after warranty, but would rather get something definitive done before then.
It is a little unsafe, because sometimes after a complete stop, it will then downshift and without sufficient braking power, it lunges forward, not to mention that with only 3 forward gears, it is noticably annoying.
Any ideas?
I can take the rear drums off, spray the threads on the self-adjuster with WD40, adjust the brakes until it's a little tough to get the drum back on, and then the emergency brake works fine.
The trouble is, after a few days, I am right back in the same boat: the emergency brake will barely hold, and it cannot be counted on at all on a very steep slope. I ALWAYS leave the Jeep in gear when stopped on steep slopes, but it would be nice to have the emergency brake going for me too.
I even make it a point to park near a tree that would stop Thelma Jane before she built up any speed, in case she slips out of gear somehow. That's not always possible, however. If a nice big rock or something is handy, I even chock a wheel.
Often, Ross Allen stays in the Jeep during short breaks, and I am paranoid about the Jeep rolling down a steep slope with him in there.
So, Mac, or anyone, what's the solution concerning the rear brake adjustment? I have tried repeatedly backing up and hitting the brakes, which is supposed to activate the self-adjusters, but that hasn't seemed to do any good.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. Mac, you must be VERY proud of me! I said "break" for a brief interlude in the activities, and I said "brake" for the stopping mechanism!!!!
Keep us posted on how that tranny thing goes.
Good luck in getting it resolved.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-twylie
Had a 95 Sahara and a 99 Sport, so it feels good to be back in a Wrangler. Won't be my personal daily driver, but I like knowing it is in my garage every night
The silver/black combo is very sharp, and the new-ish seat design is nice too. Why doesn't it have the passenger airbag turn-off switch anymore? And why does the base radio get 4 digit security code, but my CD player doesn't?
Thanks!
Gary
Remove both rear drums and take a look at the PS adjustment mechanism. Attached to the adjuster is a toothed wheel with a pawl pressing against it. To adjust the brakes you have to lift the pawl, rotate the wheel, then release the pawl which will engage with the teeth and prevent the adjuster from loosening. Now, look at the pawl on the other side (DS) and you'll see that it sits clear of the toothed wheel by about 1/4"!!! The reason that your brakes de-adjust so quickly is that there's no pawl to keep the adjuster in place, and that you keep the adjuster so nicely lubricated. This is a good thing if the adjusters are working properly, as the ratchet mechanism allows the brakes to adjust in one direction only, i.e. to tighten, and needs to be able to rotate freely. In your case it makes them easier to loosen.
Eventually, DC came to realise the problem and changed the pawl to a new design in '02. The part # on your Jeep is 4761 759, and the new part # for '02 is 3461 665. In both cases the part is called 'LEVER Park Brake. Adjusting'.
The above is just my own research, I've never seen anything official from DC which appertains to the problem. I fixed mine by welding a small tab to the offending pawl, making it 1/4" wider and thus engaging the toothed wheel. Another possible solution would be to use caulk or silicone sealant on the adjuster threads making them more difficult to turn. However, the ideal solution would be to use the new design pawl.
P.S. Glad to hear you got brake and break sorted. As long as you don't start referring to bumbers, fog lites, VIN numbers, or RPM's etc., you'll be fine!
;--)
I know I look at a new Jeep with a 4.0 and the engine bay doesn't look at all familiar to my '91 with a 4.0. I'd better stick to talking about the Jeep wave until I get a new Jeep.
If you're new here, and I think you are, then WELCOME! Stick around and be part of the gang here.
Got pics of that new Jeep?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
To answer your airbag switch question, I heard they had to put the switch in because they offered the Wrangler without a back seat. That would force someone to use the front seat for their kids car seat. Maybe now, with the 04's, they don't offer it without a back seat and there's no reason to have that switch?
-Pete
However, they do both share the driving fun
I also like to use DOT 4 fluid; it has a higher wet and dry boiling point than DOT 3 fluid. DON'T USE DOT 5 FLUID!!! DOT 5 fluid is silicone and not hygroscopic, so as moisture enters the system, it is not absorbed by the fluid, and results in beads of moisture moving through the brake line, collecting in the calipers. It can also seriously screw up ABS pumps. I use ATE fluids alternate between SuperBlue and TYP 200(Amber) fluid; they are identical except for color, so you can easily tell when you have flushed out the older fluid. The ATE specs are excellent: dry boiling point is 536F while wet is 396F. You can probably get by with changing ATE fluids every two to three years. I change every fluid two years on my cars unless they are going to see track use or high speed mountain driving, in which case I change it every six months. Having your brake pedal go to the floor when approaching a turn at 110 mph is no fun...
i am not a techie, mechanically inclined guy, so please humor me, and answer me this:
why do i need Trak-Lok, when i have 4wd? i didn't want/need Trak-Lok, but didn't object since it was on the Jeep i liked. they explained that is sends power away from a spinning wheel, so you don't get stuck. don't get stuck? how could i get stuck, when all i need to do is throw her in 4wd and get out. am i missing some Trak-lok importance here?
thanks!
ATE is a good product, pity it's not more easily available. I like the idea of a same spec but different color fluid. The Valvoline SynPower exceeds Dot 3 and Dot 4 specs. It's not as high performance as ATE, but very respectable none the less..... high dry boiling point 502F / minimum wet boiling point 343F.
You probably didn't realize it, but with open differentials, even when in four wheel drive, you actually have "two wheel drive."
The next step above a limited slip is a locker, and with a locker, you can even have one tire completely off the ground, and the other tire will pull. If you had lockers front and back, then you would really have four wheel drive. (Most four wheel drive vehicles do not have lockers... usually, they would just be on vehicles that get taken off road all the time).
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks for the tips, I am going to print your comments and take them to the dealer today.
I don't know if he has performed any of the diagnostic stuff, but at least it is a start.
Thanks, all.
Steve
When you get right down to it, there aren't really a whole lot of options when it comes to Jeeps.
I don't remember which top option you are going with. That's another biggie, like the axle option. Did you say you are getting the dual tops? That's the best bet, if you can afford it.
If you can't get the dual tops, then it becomes a tough choice as to whether you get the hard top or the soft top. The hard top costs more, but you will never get a factory quality hard top any cheaper than you can get it from DC on your new Jeep to start with. I think they go for about $2000 brand new, and it only costs something like $900 as a factory option.
I got the hard top only, and, although I wish at times that I had a soft top, I think I made the right choice, since I couldn't have both. I have something else to use as my daily driver, and I have a garage, so I can take the hard top off pretty much for the whole summer, and just leave the Jeep in the garage when it's raining.
The soft tops are nice in that you can start the day with the top down, and then put it back up, if it begins to rain. I just have to take my chances, if I get very far from home with the top and doors off.
I think the seven speaker stereo option is a good one. Back in the 01s, they had a five speaker option that included a subwoofer. I went that route and am glad that I did. The Jeep radios without the subwoofer just had NO bass at all and sounded AWFUL.
The sentry key option is a good one too. It has saved the Jeep of one of our members from being stolen on two different occasions.
Can't think of anything else at the moment.
Keep us posted on how things go, OK?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I'd pass on the underseal, paint protectorant, Scotchguard, etc., etc.
:--)
(.......and what's the problem with the auto?)
Is it easy to replace that thing with the new part?
I picked up some of that brake fluid that you recommended today.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Andrew
Hey tomster,
Is Gill changing his website again? Do I have to re-register?
Congrats on the Jeep Justin
Well, my hand is really starting to hurt so I'll say farewell for now...
Hug your Jeeps for me
smedranger aka smed...wrangler/cougar
I'm getting worse all the time! Can you believe that I once was a decent speller, had a decent vocabulary, and could write using proper grammar and punctuation?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Gill's is probably gone for good. Gill is having some bad luck, and he had to sell his servers. He still has one server, and he was trying to get the site transfered to that server. Something must not be going right, though, because no one can get the home page to load.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Hey, is today a Turkey Bay day? Hope it's a little warmer down there, it's pretty cold up here in New England this morning.
Have a good day.
Rich
Actually, I've never changed that part as I modified mine. The golden rule when working on rear brakes is to remove both drums, but only work on one side at a time. Each side will either be identical to the other, or a mirror image. Either way, when you have a pile of parts waiting to be reassembled you just have to look at the other side to see which way they go. Of course, you could always take a picture instead, but having the actual thing there in 3D is much better.
Tops - I test drove a new Wrangler with a soft top recently and was very surprised at how much better the new tops are (I bought in '98). If I were to buy now, I'd had a hard time deciding. I don't have a garage so I have no place to put a hard top so it would be an either/or situation.
Deb - sorry about your broken arm. Be glad that you aren't like a friend of mine - he's a single guy with a 5 speed and broke his left leg. He got very familiar with the bus schedule...
-Mike
Yeeeeeehawwwwww!!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
After wheelin', the guy I wheeled with, Mike ( the guy I work with who has a 97 TJ), and I thought we would go down to the Bison Range and let his little three year old granddaughter see some buffalo.
As we approached the area, we saw two ambulances, a firetruck, all kinds of Forest Service emergency vehicles, and a medevac helicopter. We found out later that some guy had climbed the fence and gotten in there with the buffalo, and he had been gored in the guts by one of them!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Makes me wonder if the story I heard about someone smearing honey on their child's face, in an attempt to snap a pic of a wild bear licking them, is true or a myth.
Andrew
What did you ever do about that door? How's yer Jeep?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
On the add-a-trunk, I've had two TJs, one with the original metal one and the second with the newer plastic one. The metal one is flimsy, the plastic one much better. With the first one, I got tired of having to lift fertilizer, dog food, lawn mowers, and the like over the thing, so I eventually removed it. On the second TJ, I removed it as soon as I got home. They are handy to store things in with the top off, but they get in the way too much otherwise.