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Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems



  • gpat47gpat47 Posts: 2
    I have a 97 4x4 blazer. For the past 6 months, it has occasional brake failure. I put them on, the peddle goes to the floor and the engine revs up, I go through a stop sign. I took it in and they said it was my Master cylinder, then some type of sensor. It still occurred. It does it maybe once a month. I recently had the ABS booster replaced. It is not made anymore so I got a junk yard part. It was ok for 2 months, then, once again, as I go down a hill like a driveway or exit a parking lot, the brakes fail, the engine revs up and I nearly get into an accident.

    There as got to be a reason. Any suggestions?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited March 2012
    The 1990-2001 S10 and Blazer ABS system is a poor design and the 1995 - 2001 ABS was improved over the 1989-1994 ABS system. With ABS brakes it is important to flush the brake fluid every 10,000 miles, including the ABS modulator. It takes special equipment and technical knowledge to flush the ABS modulator and unfortunately, most auto repair shops don't have the expertise to bleed the air out of the ABS modulator. I found two Chevrolet dealerships that did not know how to bleed my 1991 S10 Blazer ABS system and two auto repair shops with ASE technicians on staff that told me.... "Take it somewhere else" . GM still has rebuilt 1995 - 2001 ABS modulators for sale for $800 MSRP. One company offered to rebuild my 1991 ABS modulator for $700. My 1991 ABS modulator was still good but it had air in it. I found a technician on Craig's List that came to my house and finally bled my ABS system but it too two people about 6 hours, manually cycling the ABS modulator and foot pumping. My brakes work good now but I don't think the ABS works anymore, at least it does go into the ABS test mode in the first 30 feet after I start driving the vehicle.

    The ABS brakes on my 1994 Ford F150 truck has not worked in 12 years. All the brakes my Ford truck has now is standard brakes but at least the Ford ABS modulator does not have any air in it. It seems that the Ford ABS system never had problems with air in the modulators. The brakes on my Ford truck stops fine in city traffic but the rear brakes lock up and skid on wet pavement.

    You MUST cycle the ABS modulator to expel the air when you bleed the ABS brake system. If you don't, there will still be air in the ABS modulator and the brakes can go to the floor. In order to cycle the modulator on a 1989-1995 ABS modulator, it takes a GM Tech 1 scan tool . On the 1996-2001 ABS, it takes a different scan tool.

    The GM Tech 1 scan tool is obsolete and a good used GM Tech 1 scan tool cost $400 - $500. There is no auto repair technician that will pay that much for a tool that he may only use once a year.
  • gpat47gpat47 Posts: 2
    Many Thanks. Looks like I find a reputable dealer.
  • rhallchallrhallchall Posts: 1
    Do have any suggestion for a vehicle that stops 600 times a day for delivery. I am using OEM parts now, would slotted rotors and different pads last longer?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited May 2012
    Slotted and vented rotors are for high speed stops. Those rotors expel heat plasma (gasses) that is created between the pads and the rotors. If left to remain between the pads and the rotors during a high speed stop, , the plasma will lubricate the pads and reduce their braking ability.

    I prefer Bendix CT3 ceramic brake pads for city or highway driving. They are quiet, have a good pedal feel, low brake dust, less rotor wear, they are long wearing and have excellent braking in all temperatures. .
  • gmbutkusgmbutkus Posts: 3
    My ABS keeps engaging when I go to stop at a slow speed. I was told by the dealer that it was the right front ABS sensor, I did not choose to pay them $400 for a $65 part, and did have it replaced with an ABS sensor--however, I still have the problem. Someone said something about an ABS sensor in the bearing--did we get the wrong part replaced--help, I'm running out of money and afraid to drive the car and only do when I have to. Thank you.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    GM/ACDelco 15997039, Sensor, front wheel, speed. 4WD......$50.00 ($101.24 msrp)

    You may be required to replace the wheel hub when using a new sensor if the sensor pick up end is hitting the reluctor ring (tone ring).
  • gmbutkusgmbutkus Posts: 3
    Thank you for your help
  • my 2000 Blazer did the same thing. I ended up just pulling the fuse for it and now I have no ABS but the old-school brakes work fine. I did that about 2 years ago and have not had any issues. The ABS light does stay on all the time.
  • rhup234rhup234 Posts: 1
    SURE, saw more than once!
  • Umm first off im not trying to take anyone down on this just going off my own experence most shops are idiots not relizing they can use the same brake bleeder they already have that they hook up to you car and walk away now for the secound part bleeding out the ABS isnt as difficult as most will say and you dont need special tools and etc.... ive done this my self with just another guy takes a totall of 15 mins to bleed out all the air
  • Ok im going to stop u right there you dont need a special scan tool ive been doing this for peopls ABS on there chevys for years now and only takes 15 mins with one other guy to help out to bleed out the ABS system :D
  • hi, I have 93 chevy blazer s10, 4.3 lts. i check my brake sistem, everything looks good. sometime when i apply the brake the rear wheels grabbing. usually does when the vehiculo is cold or take more than 12 hours parked, after three or four braking the sistem is normal

  • bushdenbushden Posts: 1
    edited September 2014

    I have a 2001 S10 4x4, Brakes were having intermitent issue with spongy brake pedal, I have taken it to a shop and they replaced the master cylinder, worked Ok for a week and same problem, took it back and they said rear calipers were sticking and had to be replaced, after a couple weeks problem returned, took it back and they said ABS needed to be bleed and they said they bleed them electronically ?? Never heard of that but worked OK for another 2 weeks, brakes spongy again and sometime down to the floor, took it back again and they replaced the master cylinder again, worked OK for about 3 weeks and now have problem again. They now said the ABS modulator and pump MAY need to be replaced, but truck showed NO ABS CODES, I now have about $600 into brakes and no good brakes yet. Any ideas would be appreciated. All this started about a month after they replaced a broken brake line. This is a great running truck and never gave me a problem I owned it since new.

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