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Jeep Wrangler Modifications



  • rebel99rebel99 Posts: 11
    i can already tell this is my favorite topic on this forum since i love making mods to my jeep haha

    for a while now ive been thinking about putting camouflage fender flares on my jeeper, but i dont feel like spending 400+ bucks for a new set of fender flares. i have plenty of rolls of camouflage gun tape that i can buy at walmart for 4 dollars a roll, and i would like to take the flares off and wrap them in that stuff but it doesnt hold all too well (often times i have to rewrap my gun after one or two hunting trips). i was wondering if anyone knew either where i could get camo wrap paper for cheap, or if there were like some sort of clear wrap paper that i could cover the flares in after i tape them. or if there are any other techniques to do this job that are still cheap i would love to hear about them.
    fire away guys!

    -Big Al
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Given the flares' texture, getting something to stick WELL will be tough, especially if you offroad it. There may some kind of glue you could apply to the flare to get things to stick, but once you start tearing em up, patching it will not look too good, IMO, unless you redo the whole thing. Your next best bet would be to use some Krylon Fusion primer then perhaps you could paint the flares using a few shades of camo paint. Get some leaves and lay them on your flares as you paint, then remove them as you add layers. You can create patterns at random or using the leaf template and have your own custom flares.

    Post pics if you go that route.

  • well it appears that cold air induction and cat backs systems are not held in high esteem here.we just got the wife an 08 wrangler and i had already ordered a cat back from Gibson I was plannig on adding a cold air induction also. whats the story
    I have had excellent results on my other vehicles from my Miata,chevy s-10 and Dodge pickup with the 360cid v8. do these items not work on the jeep?
  • Will 33" tires fit on a stock '06 Wrangler?
  • How said "stock". I must be one brain-cell short at the moment.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735

    Define fit? :)

    Ideally, for offroad, you want at least 3" of lift (such as a 2" budget boost and 1" body lift) to give you room while flexing. You also have to consider your wheel's backspacing. Stock Jeep wheels are backspaced 5.5" and they'll rub the frame like crazy when turning.

    If you go with Spidertrax wheel spacers or get wheels with 4" of backspacing, you'll be much better off.

  • I am having the same problem on my 08' did anyone find a fix for this???
  • has anyone installed a 4inch llift kit and was it hard and what kind of tools would u need to do this susspension because i have the rough country 4 inch lift kit for a 97 wrangler AND aboout to install it soon
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Not a 4" kit, but I've installed a few (OME 2.75" and RE 3.5").

    Tools needed:
    Socket wrenches
    Crescent wrenches
    Jack stands
    spring compressors (available at Autozone for rental - free when returned).
    channel pliers (for swapping shocks)
    floor jack
    Misc screw drivers.

    If you are changing brake lines you need to tools to bleed brakes as well. If you are swapping in a drop pitman arm (not really recommended for a 4" lift), you'll need a pitman arm puller. If you are doing a Slip yoke setup for the rear driveshaft, you'll need tools to adjust pinion angle on the rear axle, clip removal tools, etc.

    I have no clue what is in the RC 4" lift, so I'm throwing out what you have to worry about:
    1. Shock swap
    2. Spring swap
    3. Track bar installation to recenter axles left to right
    4. Control arm replacement - setting castor
    5. Bump stop installation
    6. Brake line extensions to handle flex offroad
    7. SYE/DS setup or transfer case drop
    8. Engine and/or body lift.

    I did my suspension lift in 1 day totally alone with zero help. No problems. I went slow and thought each step through.

    When you finish, enjoy the fruits of your labor, but be sure to check EVERY bolt you touched during the process to ensure they are all back in place and SECURED to proper spec before driving it.

  • jeep_guyjeep_guy Posts: 1
    I just bought a YJ wrangler with a 318 V8 dropped in about 100K on it. That engine will get a better fuel mileage on the jeep than it would on the Dodge Dakota right? It just seems like the engine would be pushing a lot less. Some help.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Jeeps are not as light as ya think. :) Also, if you offroad, have bigger tires, and weight-adding features like armor, winch, etc, it may not be a great as you think.

    That said, MOST people I know who have done a V8 swap will see a bit of an MPG increase. But don't let that be the basis for purchasing it. :)

  • we2we2 Posts: 2
    Are there any modifications that can be done to an older jeep wrangler (2003 to 2006) models that would increase towing to 5,000#? Engine work? Transmission coolers? Shocks? Frame? Transmission exchange? Other?

    If able to do this any idea of the total cost involved to modify? What specific models should I look to purchase to make this work best?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Are there any modifications that can be done to an older jeep wrangler (2003 to 2006) models that would increase towing to 5,000#?

    A 4.0 automatic Wrangler is quite capable of towing 5Klbs and I've done it myself many times.
    However, when I've done so it's been on relatively flat dry roads with efficient trailer brakes.
    The limitations on the Wrangler are both legal (3Klbs is the recommended max), and physical (it's a very short wheelbase vehicle which makes it easy for a trailer to push it around).

    The only modification required besides a class III trailer hitch and the appropriate wiring, is to install a large transmission cooler.


    I use this one, a stacked plate B&M (#BMM-70266) which is readily available from many places including for around $80.

    Other than that, make sure the brakes, steering, and cooling system are all 100%.
    Don't expect it to tow like a Ford F350, don't expect to keep up with a fast traffic flow, don't hit an off-ramp at 60mph.......... in fact don't hit anything, as the legal implications of an overweight trailer could be serious.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Probably the biggest issues is the short wheelbase. If you're towing something that heavy, you do run the risk of the tail wagging the dog...

  • I am going to get a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.
    and I will do some suspension lift on it.

    I prefer manual transmission but it seems almost
    all wranglers around my area are automatic. My question is, will automatic transmission cause
    much trouble to suspension lift DIY compared to Manual one?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    No. Just have to be careful if you order new skids. Some are for manuals while there is a different part number for automatics.

    Keep in mind, the driveshafts go to the axles from the transfer case, NOT the transmission itself. And the t-case is the same for auto vs manual.

  • Planning to add MOPAR speed control (cruise control) to my new Wrangler.

    The thing that I am not sure are:

    1. will this DIY project void the warranty on my jeep
    2. the installation deals with removing the steering wheel where the
    air bag is located. I dound a way to disable the SRS airbag. After that, will this be safe to do?

    Recommendations are welcome.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    First off, try going with new lens housings and H4 bulbs. I have IPF housings and IPF Fatboy bulbs and they light things up VERY WELL. I did NOT have to upgrade the wiring harness, but that is also an option. I got mine from out of Wichita, KS.

    Secondly, you can aim your fogs out to either side a bit to light up the side a bit better. That can be done for free and help show you the glowing deer eyes. But you can also upgrade the fog lighting as well to something a bit brighter. Hella, KC, etc make nice lights you could use.

    Windshield or light bar lights are ILLEGAL to use on the road so I can't advise how to do that but I know there is a spade in one of the relays that can be bent back to do it. I have aftermarket fog lights and they are not wired into the PDC and I can run fogs and highs at the same time and haven't had to worry about the PDC setup.

    I DO have windshield lights and lights on a lightbar over my winch (though they're shattered currently due to an offroading oopsie). The windshield lights are aimed straight ahead, but I can turn them outwards when needed.

    There are pencil beam lights for long range and there are other beam patterns available depending on your need. Check out Hella or KC's websites for more information on what beam pattern works best for your needs.

  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    I was looking at the IPF lights this morning and wondered how well they work. With all the letters and numbers on bulbs these days I didn't know what was what. I think I'll start with replacing the headlights first and see how that works out. But wow, them Fat Boy bulbs cost some bucks.

    As for the fog lights, I've read that one of the tabs on the relay can be removed to keep the lights on. Now to figure which one.

    I'm still thinking about the windshield lights. Even though they may be illegal, so are having your high beams on with on coming traffic. Since I would be using them on back roads, maybe no one will notice.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Generally you're okay onroad if you keep the covers on the windshield lights. It has the benefit of protecting from road debris too.

    To do this:
    1. Pull the fog relay, bend this pin.
    2. Replace relay.


    IPF isn't cheap but it IS a nice setup. I got mine as mentioned before from Dirk at and the price with the housing and bulbs really wasn't too bad at all. What's good night illumination worth to you? To me, it is about safety.

    I've occasionally hit my high beams with my fogs, my front driving lights, AND my windshield lights. There is NO mistaking I'm on the way! :)


  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tried to shrink the image... messed up. Can a mod delete 2 of those posts and fix the bottom image so it isn't too wide?

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    We can't edit your posts (but got the other two). Looks like you figured it out anyway.

    Your first pic isn't showing up for me though - looks like a registration issue.
  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    I did get the fog lights to come on anytime. Pulled out the relay and jumped the number 3 and 4 slots with a wire. Also ordered the new replacement lenses and bulbs to try before I get the driving lights. Now I was thinking of finding a way to keep the low beams on when I hit the high beams. Think this will burn a fuse or fry a wire over an extended time?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Now I was thinking of finding a way to keep the low beams on when I hit the high beams. Think this will burn a fuse or fry a wire over an extended time?

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The lamp design of the TJ prevents low and high at the same time. They are not different bulbs.

    I think you'll find the new lights with H4 bulbs a great improvement. There is also a shield you can remove on the fog lights, but it actually does more harm than good.

    Personally, if you REALLY need side lighting, I'd swap the OEM fogs for a good set of Hella's or KC's that have a specific wide/low pattern to handle that duty. With that, you'll get great coverage. With windshield lights, I'm finding that it does block a bit of my vision a bit in traffic and depending on the model of housing, you may get a ring around them at night that YOU can see as the driver, which actually hampers your vision.

    if you decide you want to ditch the OEM fogs, let me know. I could put them to use for a project.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The lamp design of the TJ prevents low and high at the same time. They are not different bulbs.

    In the OE sealed beam unit the high and low beams use separate filaments with a common ground.
    Using a relay it wouldn't be hard to arrange for power to arrive at both high and low together when the high beam was selected.........just not a good idea.

    In regard to lighting in general, if you need long range illumination it's because you're going fast enough to require seeing that far ahead, and even if excellent close range side lighting has been added it will only aid peripheral vision, so you may see the leaping deer a little better just before you hit it, but you will have been going too fast to avoid it anyway. :sick:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Didn't know that about the lights, mac. Thanks!

    I agree with what you're saying there.

    I have decided to make some configuration changes on my lighting. My OEM fogs are coming off. I'm moving my Hella 500's (fog pattern) from the windshield to the bumper. Their light glare makes them unusable at night for me, but turned down/out a bit, they'll be ideal for fog, even only being 55W.

    I'm going to go IPF for my new lighting. I'm getting some 968's with stone/glare guards for the windshield. They are a driving pattern and can run up to 110W bulbs (which they come with). I'm putting a second set on my light hoop over my winch once I get that remounted and reinforced. They'll be set up tight enough to not move when driving, but I'll be able to move them to aim them up a bit for when I'm on the darker trails. Since I can see them from the driver's seat, they may have stone guards too. I'll just have to see how they go once mounted.

    I'll be posting a writeup with my current setup so you'll be able to see the differences.

    They come with their own wiring harness, but I'm going to verify the harness can handle the 110W lighting I plan on using.

  • Yesterday the rubi rails were replaced with LoD installed by ScreaminLizard.
  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    The murderous, rampaging Bambi took out the side of my TJ this month! Just got it back from the shop and figured some driving lights might increase the odds of less damage when her big brother finds out and comes looking for me. I'm going to mount some KC Daylighters to my windshield and was looking for some clearer instructions and diagrams for the install than I've found so far. Maybe a few tips or warnings before I start. I was looking for the following setup on the switch:

    Auto ----- comes on with the high beams
    On ------ on whenever I want them alone (never know)

    Basically trying to verify what I think I need to do. A little of that "measure twice cut once" thing.

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