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2013 Ford Escape



  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    But it is interesting to know that road Hazard warranty is readily available from most tire manufacturers.

    Actually the road hazard warranty is from the tire dealer, not the manufacturer.

    I've heard of several people going to a tire dealer with a new car and purchasing a road hazard warranty.
  • I had a similar experience a few years ago with a Michelin tire. There was no road hazard warranty but my local tire dealer worked with the Michelin rep for an "adjustment" on the price of the new tire (ie prorated for miles). We paid less than half price for the tire. Try this approach with your local tire dealer.
  • issue was service tech error............I had our 2013 Escape in for the first service last Friday, 12/28/2012, the technician did not put my dipstick back in so I had oil coming out from the dipstick location....fortunately the dipstick was still laying in the front of the engine compartment and I was able to take care of it......I have cleaned up everything I could get to and hopefully my issue will be tech must have been having a bad day as he also did not rotate my tires which I paid for!
  • I have noticed this issue as well........the more I am driving it the more I am getting used to it and it does not bother me as much.
  • I hope you called them on that! Have them at least give you a free steam clean and a free oil change!
  • You got that right.................going back in on Saturday morning!
  • Update: 2013 Ford Escape exhaust smell. Time in the shop.. over 6weeks! The dealer finally got a replacement valve cover and was going to try to have the vehicle ready this week. Surprise surprise, the new valve cover is damaged.
    Ford Quality is Job One! do they still use that? probably not.
  • Ever since my 2013 Ford Escape received its recall and software fix my car has major issues knowing what to do when the gas pedal is pushed. It tales 5-7 seconds before it starts to hum and then lurch and drag down to a slower speed. Very nerve wracking when driving on interstates through the Colorado mountains and you get out from behind a runaway semi with flashing hazard lights and your Ford loses speed from 60 to 45 in seconds while you are trying to speed up. Imagine this scenario playing out for almost an hour. Just glad to be here to tell about it. The dealership in Glenwood Springs. CO cannot duplicate the problem, therefore it doesn't exist. Just ask Joe, he has been there 35 years. What else could we possibly expect him to do? Anyone else experiencing something similar? We need to let Ford in on it before someone gets killed. Paula
  • usa1fanusa1fan Posts: 68
    This sounds a lot like what the EcoBoost trucks were seeing with condensation problems causing drivability and acceleration issues (bad ones!). Yours is the first report I've seen of this type of problem with one of the four cylinder EcoBoost vehicles, but I was wondering if it wasn't possible when I read about the trucks.

    It sounds pretty serious, and I'd keep on the dealership until the problem is verified, and hopefully, if possible, corrected. And please keep us informed!
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,156
    So far, after just under 3300 miles my wife's AWD Titanium is averaging just under 22 mpg.
    In my experience, it will take up to 10k miles before the drive train is broken in.
    All three of the vehicles being currently driven locally have just had their worst fuel mileage, two since last winter due to the cold weather.
    The 2013 does not fit a wheel chair as well as the '09 my wife drove before that.
    Electronics are working out great.
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • On Monday, 1/7, I went into a lease on an Escape. My previous leased vehicle was a 2011 Ford Fusion SEL with AWD. I'm hoping since it's a 4 cyl engine, it will have better gas mileage than my previous Fusion, which was 6 cyl.

    I found the Fusion was fine in bad weather, didn't really have enough snow in the Winter of 2012 here in my part of NY to really guage. I've previously had a 2006 Ford Explorer, the year of the "new styled handle", and that was fantastic in snow.

    Though I'm not new to Ford cars (I'm 48 and with the exception of once having a Chevy Trailblazer, and a Toyota Highlander), I've mostly had Fords. Wondering how the Escape is as a small category SUV?
  • usa1fanusa1fan Posts: 68
    edited January 2013
    Fuel economy first (copied this part over on the other topic too, without the rest that follows here):
    In my latest update, our 2.0l SEL 4WD, since around Christmas Eve, has returned an average closer to 25.5 mpg overall. This also needs to take into account colder temperatures during this period. We got snow XMas Eve and again 2x since, just in large enough amounts and with enough cold air to keep most of it around for two weeks, and even now there are small patches that haven't melted completely away yet, but mostly where it was piled from shoveling or plowing. The worst average tank for this period was just over 23 mpg.

    Overall, taking into consideration the 'ideal' nature of the EPA testing process, this is right in line or even a bit better than the car is 'supposed' to return- I have a mixed drive of rural highway, town, city, and interstate, with speeds anywhere from 25 to 70 mph, and these tanks were with me driving five over wherever the speed limits were under 70, or 70 in 70 mph zones.

    The most recent tank, with temperatures in the mid-upper-50's, is already over 25.5 mpg, and looking to hit 26 (warmer weather, slightly higher % hwy affecting the numbers). I've had over 29 on occasion, without ever having a single tank of *all* highway driving.

    I'd love to get the opportunity for the latter, but time and opportunity have to get together first.

    The other stuff:
    We paid for the Ford Service Plan when we bought our car, and got to feel good about ourselves this week, as we took the Escape in for it's first routine service. The 'routine' service was an oil change and tire rotation, mainly, along with the stuff they check (never sure how much or even if they really check all the 'belts', fluid levels, filters, etc.). The car had just over 6000 miles on it, and the dealership swapped the factory oil for full synthetic oil.

    Routine part over.
    We also requested that they update the MyFordTouch w/SYNC to the latest version (note, in case it wasn't mentioned here, because I don't recall and haven't looked again lately- a new version came out sometime in November or early December). Our clock has reset itself several times, once at around 11PM on a night that I know the car was parked! According to another site I follow, this seems to have been rectified with the newer release. Our system has also been caught rebooting once (erm, 'performing routine scheduled maintenance' is the term I think the display had as it came back from a black screen). So far no more clock resets, though our 64GB SD card loaded with ~20GB of music hasn't successfully been fully indexed yet (again, the display says- it's 'indexing' the card, and apparently only does it while driving), despite around 2+ hours on the road so far since the update reset / cleared the system and we reinserted the card. I recall the previous version taking a while, but somehow it didn't seem this long..

    Otherwise, it's been a pretty good experience. The hatch issue hasn't recurred, and we haven't had other problems outside of SYNC, and even SYNC's problems haven't kept any basic functionality from working, if a bit annoyingly at times.

    Glad we bought this vehicle. :)
  • Hey everyone,

    Over the past couple of weeks I've noticed that occasionally when I pull the exterior door handle, it will stick in the "out" position instead of going back in, and I have to give it a little nudge to get it to go back in. Has anyone encountered anything similar? I've noticed it mostly with the driver's door since that's the one that I use, but it has happened once or twice with other doors so I don't think it's just a problem with the driver's door. Not a huge issue but somewhat annoying, and I'm wondering if anyone has had something similar happen and if/how they got their dealership to do anything about it.
  • I glad I got the Escape and it isn't a full week. I've seen people post about Continental tires, but tires aren't perfect. I had a brand new Highlander in 2004 and after 16K miles and regular rotations I had to replace all 4 Toyo brand tires.

    Also, I learned from an experience in 1995, that Ford Motor Co rates dealerships. I found out the one I've been using since 1996 is number 1 in my area.

    Some who had oil issues and had to do with the dipstick, you may want to find out another dealer you can use for service
  • Where can I find out what my dealer rating is according to Ford.
  • Back in 1995, I called information for Ford headquarters in Detroit and talked to someone in the Chairman's office who transferred me to their Quality Assurance Dept. I'm sure you can Google that department etc to get a nimber
  • Sounds like a warranty item. Just demo that to the dealer and I am sure they will take care of it.
  • Yeah, the dealership should take care of the door handle. I haven't seen it with my Escape and I got it 4 days ago
  • The dealer ran this issue by Ford Technical Support and it appears the ability to manually shift in Drive is a normal after the recall fix.

    They said in their response that "Live in Drive" is temporary and the system will decide when it is no longer needed when it will revert to normal operation.

    They also said an SSM will be issued shortly to inform dealers and customers of this change to the transmission programming.
  • My drivers door handle has fit that exact description in the last couple of weeks. We have also had sub-freezing temperatures and I do wash the car from time to time, so it didn't surprise me. I will be going in for my first oil change in the next few weeks, so if the problem persists, I will have the dealer look at it.
  • kyotlokyotlo Posts: 3
    My door handles stick as well. I have noticed it on the back doors more often (I have a little girl with the carseat in the back). I haven't had it in to the dealer yet, but will probably have them look at it when I have my first oil change.
  • Regarding "Live in Drive" being enabled on the 1.6L Escape, I found this Ford notice #5542 - 2013 Escape 1.6L New Features With FSA 12S41 Calibration Effect Transmission Select Shift In Drive. In Q1 they are releasing a calibration to disable "Live in Drive" if desired.

    This feature existed in the 2011 Edge. "Unique to the 2011 Ford Edge Sport is that the paddle shift activation is “live in drive,” which means the customer doesn’t have to shift to “M” or manual mode. Instead, while in Drive, the driver can pull the “+” paddle on the right side of the steering wheel or “-” paddle on the left side of the steering wheel to shift up or down gears."

    Just seems like Ford could have notified people (and dealers) of it being enabled in the Escape before folks stumbled on it while driving. Ah well, moving on.
  • That is the same wording the dealer got from Ford Tech Support but they didn't include the Q1 fix to eliminate the feature if it is not wanted. I haven't experimented with it much, but it reverts back to the gear it wants to be in after a few seconds. That may be throttle position dependent but I didn't have time to play with it in traffic.

    They also updated the MyTouch/Sync software and added a new screen which is a composite of the four individual screens in the DIC.

    I don't recall if the outside temperature was up where the time is shown on the center display but it is now plus on the DIC.

    The tech that did the update didn't know what was changed so we just have to find it ourselves I suppose. Release notes would be nice if the dealer can't bother to let owners know what is changed.

    How did you find that Oasis document?
  • One of the returns on a Google search of: 2012 escape, "live in drive" came up with "broadcast messages" as the topic.

    When I had asked my dealer about this capability before finding this thread, the change was news to him, and other folks at the dealership. He was able to get the info for me the next day, including the promised ability to undo it, Then I found the document using the search.

    Not a fan of the change as I found it by accidentally shifting while in drive by pressing the buttons. I had a similar feature, and liked it, in my Chrysler 300M and like the Escape, you needed to move to a different shift position to use it.

    Completely agree, release/change notes from Ford should be required to the dealer and owners.
  • tl9tl9 Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me what their 2013 Ford Escape SEL 2.0L engine idles at.
  • 1250 RPM after a cold start.
    900 RPM during warm up.
    750 RPM when engine is at full temp.
    In gear or neutral seems to make no difference.
  • jluianjluian Posts: 1
    I bought my 2013 Ford Escape this week I drove it for 200 miles, now my dashboard lights are flickering on and off non stop. It kill the battery overnight. Re-charged it and it is always going on . What am I supposed to do.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Take it to your dealer. It is under warranty. Let them fix it.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,156
    My wife downloaded the software upgrade onto a memory stick and requested her new NAV card on Saturday afternoon. It looks like the SD card got here today, which is pretty quick.
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • having the same issues and it's on it's 3rd time back in. They say it is normal, it is the computer talking. I am afraid of getting into an accident. They want to put a black box on it. Now the sensors are going off when I am driving, like I am going to hit someone, and there is nothing around me. I think it is the computer, because it doesn't happen every time??? anyone else had this happen?
  • My sensors go off when it is snowing. I am guessing the sensors are picking up the snow flakes. It is very irritating!
  • Not snowing!!
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,156
    My wife has had her 13 AWD Ti for about 4 months and 4400 miles, but tonight was the first time I drove it any distance, about 15 miles. Actually, the 2nd time I ever drove it.
    Compared to our 09 Limited V6, the ride is much more compliant, despite the 19 wheels.
    It's a little softer off the line from a stop, as she has mentioned.
    Idle has some vibration, but after that very smooth and plenty of power if you want to use it.
    It down shifts way too often, but I expect this to work itself out by 10k, based on the other Fords I have owned or currently drive.
    BLIS is helpful and not intrusive, as i have read in some reviews.
    Pretty quiet on the highway compared to the '09, too.
    Seat backs really hug you sides and heaters are strong.
    The built in garage door opener works and is a nice feature.
    I usually split my driving between 2 Explorers.
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • Space is very limited and expect oil to have to be cleaned of the block and ancillary equipment, at least what I have found (and by the Ford tech’s comments for the first “free” oil change, a real pain), notwithstanding having the removal and replacement of the undercarriages aero-dynamic shield .

    The Ford “spec” for the FL-960S is Height 3.360 in., Outside Diameter 3.150 in. The horizontal positioning of the filter only allows a few turns to loosen/or tighten with the use of an end type filter socket using a low profile ratchet so I have found a “strap type” filer wrench much better saving time, aggravation and I’m sure the inevitable bent cooling fins trying to remove the filter with the ratchet /socket.
  • Don't see a specific recommendation in the owners' manual .... suppose I could ask the dealer, but where's the fun in that?

    vehicle is 2013 2.0L AWD + factory tow package.

    I read thru the "~towing selector~" document on and both it and the owners' manual mention "tow/haul" positions on automatic transmissions. Wonder why they decided to put that verbiage in these documents if the Escapes' transmission doesnt actually include it.

    That being said, any opinions as to what's the best position to put the shifter into while towing? I'm jumping the gun a bit, don't actually have a trailer at the moment, but will eventually need to figure this out.

    Still in the <1000mi break-in period, so no towing yet, but I've already noticed improved driving response in the hilly areas hereabouts with the trans in 'S'.

    The towing chapter from the owners' manual mentions "...provides enging braking and helps eliminate excessive transmission shifting..." and the transmission chapter says the "S" position "... provides additional grade(engine) braking and ....enhance performance for uphill climbs...". Those statements would tend to point me toward sticking the transmission in 'S' for towing.

    Opinions? Facts?
  • I will give you my opinion based on experience with other vehicles and general knowledge. I too have an 2.0 but FWD with tow package. I have not towed with it yet, but will be in a few months. I have a 5x8 enclosed trailer which weighs about 1800 lbs loaded.
    In the past, with a 4.0L engine and 6 speed auto, I would leave tranny in Drive while accellerating, and then I would shift over to manual once in 5th gear (on hwy). I would never allow tranny in 6th gear while towing.

    In the Escape, I think S mode would work well. If S mode allows the tranny to shift into 6th, then I would use the manual mode to keep it in 5th on the highway. While under any amount of load, I think the RPM's should be kept OVER 2000 RPM's (at least). (maybe 2500 RPM) With the amount of torque these engines put out, it still has pulling power way down low in the RPM range, but that is hard on the engine internals and the tranny. It is equivalent to "lugging" then engine, which ANY manufacturer will tell you to avoid.

    My first try will likely be in S mode, just to see how it works. Bottom line is to keep your RPM's up and your engine and transmission will thank you.
    Climbing hills with a reasonably heavy trailer, then maybe 3000 to 3500 RPM?
    Hard to tell, until I try.
    My $0.02

    By the way, the manual does say to ask your dealer for a "towing guide."
  • I am moving to Europe and heard stories about the radio being incompatible with the frequencies there. Does anyone know if the radio in the titanium will work in europe?
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    IIRC, Europe separates the FM frequencies by 100 kHz so stations can end in a positive decimal ie 104.2. Unless a radio can tune those positive frequencies, then the reception will be poor. The radio in your Escape probably cannot be tuned to the positive ending frequencies.
  • By doing some research on the web, I know it is possible in some cars to change the computer settings to european settings. I will check with the dealer whether this is possible. Does anyone know model number of the sony radio? The information in the booklets is very limited.
  • I accidentally snapped off the antenna on the roof of the 2013 Escape while backing into a garage packing space - yeah - ugh! I ordered a new base and antenna (part #18813 and 18936). As the antenna bent forward it pushed the front of the base down and made an ever so slight depression just forward of the base - yeah - ugh! I think it will rebound with a little thumb pressure from underneath. However, I am curious if anyone knows how to drop the rear portion of the head liner so that I can access the connectors to the base? Many thanks.
  • tim156tim156 Posts: 308
    Bummer. I'm just spitballin' here, but isn't the headliner attached to the insulation with adhesive and the insulation is somehow attached to the roof? I ask about the adhesive and insulation because folks on the Focus forum were posting that the glue was seeping through the headliner material. My guess is that you have to remove the plastic trim pieces in the cargo area and very carefully try to separate the headliner from the insulation as far back as needed. Apply a modest amount (so it doesn't seep through) of spray adhesive and try to reattach the headliner. The plastic trim is probably attached with push pins and pull straight out. I believe there are tools for removing interior trim, but you may have to replace the fastening pins if they are ribbed and tapered.

    The only time I smoke and the only time I smoke in the car is when I travel on my blue highway road trips. Last year, I had a cig in my hand, was trying to orientate a map and I brushed the cig against the headliner. It melted the fabric instantly and left three small burn marks and a slight stain I can't get out. I looked into replacing the headliner and if I'm looking at the correct part on, it's $645.00 for the fabric headliner alone. I looked online for repair kits and nothing seemed right to me. I'm going to take it to an upholsterer this summer to see if anything can be done to fix it up.
  • When the dealer told me $200+ just for labor, I decided to take a closer look at the headliner. There are two trim pieces on either side in the rear that appear to hold the edges of the headliner. The rear edge is held in place by the rubber gasket at the top of the left gate. Slipping my hand in there I felt no glue and the headliner and insulation appear to be one piece. So, I'm optimistic that I'll be able to do it myself.
  • tim156tim156 Posts: 308
    Sounds like over $800 to swap the headliner, ouch. I wonder if you can pull the trim to the rear doors and that will give you enough space to get your hands and tools in there to change out the antenna and pop the dent. Good luck.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,156
    How does the base attach? Maybe you can remove it and push the indent up.
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • coldnfrostycoldnfrosty Posts: 25
    edited February 2013
    It is a pretty simple connection. The base attaches with a nut that expands when tightened. The base is also well-gasketed. There's a triple gasket around the nut, and then a single gasket around the outer edge. Two connectors for the electricals.

  • bwaabwaa Posts: 13
    Does anyone know of a site where I can get parts? Just a general site?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    You mean like RockAuto? Lots of sites out there.

    What I look for is "real" information, like a real street address that you can use to contact them, "real" information when you search their domain, that sort of thing.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 14,156
    What kind of parts are you looking for?
    Try Fordparts dot com for the factory stuff.
    2019 Lincoln MKZ Reserve 1, 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • donl1donl1 Posts: 112
    Received an email from Ford today with my vin #. No luck in running the number to get my window sticker even though I tried a site that has worked in the past. The vin # is 1FMCU9J93DUD02122 if someone would like to give it a shot.
  • I am going for 2013 Ford Escape with Stone leather seats. But after seeing forum posts about stained seats (other thread), I am tensed and now in double minds.

    Can anyone with "stone leather" seats on 2103 Ford Escape confirm that they too see spots on the seats out of nowhere? Also, water/snow flakes creating stains is also a problem with these "stone leather seats" or is it only with cloth seats?

    This is going to be my first Ford car, so a bit nervous. Need to make up my decision in 2-3 days.
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