Great story - and it isn't crazy to have 3 vehicles. I know people that have had more than that (like 3-4 Suburbans and a full sized pickup). And when it's a Wrangler, it makes even more sense.
We still keep our '98 Sport. We only occasionally need a second vehicle and it would probably cheaper for us to rent one on those few occasions when we go different directions. However, I have no interest in selling it. We've owned it since it was new and while I now prefer the Unlimited, I can't quite see selling it just yet.
Be careful out there and thank you for giving up so much to keep us safe.
my tires are 10.5 wide,,, ( the tire is wider than the rim ) there are alot of people that put 12.5 wide tires on 8 inch wide rims, it lets them air down farther without blowing the bead when wheeling.
Was reading this month's Consumer Reports and they totally hammered the Wrangler. I don't believe they said one positive thing about the Wrangler except its offroad ability. One line, "steering was vague and sloppy". I have heard this before and have to wonder what they're comparing it to, a go-cart? My Rubicon's steering is very, very precise and it does not drift at all on the road. Our third car is a 300zx and the steering is only slightly more precise in it. I know that they are really writing to the larger audience of people, but man, talk about it being a Jeep thing...those people clearly don't know how to have fun. They were not comparing the Wrangler to other SUVs. It was just a companion article to their small SUV comparison. Btw, they're favorite small SUV was Subaru Forrester. *yawn*
You can also go to http://www.jeepgallery.com and select a lot of different things to see what people have done - perhaps with your model and color choice.
As for tires, my 15x8 Canyons will hold a 11.5" wide tire with no problem, possibly a 12.5. It is the backspacing and its relationship to my control arms and spring perches that I have to worry about. Spacers or new wheels would fix that, as I mentioned before.
To fit 33's, you really need 3-4 inches of lift. A budget boost will generally give you about 2. A 1" body lift will take you to 3" total. You could run 33's on the road with probably no problems, but if you offroad, you may have issues, especially if you disconnect your sway bar in front.
OME does make a 4" spring for a 4" lift, but when you get to that height, you have to be more concerned about your steering geometry. Even with an Unlimited, when you get to a 4" lift, you may have to deal with driveline vibrations. A SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) may be needed to prevent that.
I have to think that the editors are thinking mainstream. The Wrangler is in a class all by it's self and unfortunately it is lumped in with the same group at Foresters.
I think it's very similar to the effect Harleys had on motorcycles. Folks buy Harleys for their name and customization value not for the comfortable ride. Alot's changed now that nearly everyone is making a harley-like bikes.
The editors can't say that the Jeep rides better. Modern SUV's are constructed to give the most comfortable ride possible on road, then converted to offroad. Wranglers have always been made to be off road vehicles first. (Although, I do wonder at why I have cruise control) Wranglers don't get good mileage. Wranglers aren't quiet.
We didn't buy our jeeps for those reasons. It's so cliche, but there is a "Jeep thing". Jeeps are 100% convertable out of the showroom, off-road capable and chicks dig em.
The post rambles a bit, thanks for sticking with it.
They've been recycling that review of the Wrangler for years. I use Consumer Reports alot, but with the knowledge that there are certain areas in which they are deficient. Tech gadgets for one. They are way behind. I'll look for recommended items, only to find they were discontinued long ago.
As for Jeeps, it may not be that their review is wrong, but that they simply don't get it. If they discuss the road noise of a Wrangler, they are obviosuly missing the point.
Also, read enough CR car reviews and you'll soon learn that they hate every single car. Ever. Even "recommended" cars get backhanded compliments.
That's actuall what sent me to Edmunds way back when.
Does anyone who knows jeep accessories know if it is possible to purchase the rear-view mirror with the digital temp/compass on its own and install it? It is part of the security package on 05 wranglers.
That thing is pretty cool and as evidenced by my back-and-forth on which Wrangler to get...I could use a sense of direction.
Has anyone bought this? Do you think it's worth the price? I probably would look for a used one on Ebay. Just wondering if it's that much more secure than the factory insert?
Back in '98 when I was thinking about getting the first Wrangler I read a bunch of reviews on the small SUV market. Everyone panned it - the only one that pointed out that it shined anywhere was Edmunds - they were realistic about its shortcomings. I became very aware of what most reviewers are looking for - a good on-road people/cargo mover, and the more luxurious the better. That's what most people reading general car reviews are looking for. The Wrangler isn't that kind of vehicle at all, and wouldn't be right for many people.
Everyone here who loves their Wranglers (like me) love them in spite of their short-comings. I'd rather have the reviewers pan them than to have too many owners buy them without realizing what they are buying and then complaining loudly about how awful they are. Buy it for what it is, not for a luxury commuter car.
p.s. - The other vehicle that we almost bought when we bought the Unlimited was a Forester XT (I got practical - the extra ground clearance won out over the WRX that I initially wanted). While the Forester might not be the most exciting car in the world, it would probably have made a better commuter car for us (in spite of the fact that it isn't a convertable).
2 weeks ago, we purchased a Wrangler Sahara from Cuesta Cadillac in San Luis Obispo. The vehicle seems to rn well and be in good condition. It currently has 90,000 miles on it and is a I-6 with an automatic transmission. Since then it has been into the local Jeep dealer twice for a check engine light. First they told us that there was a fouled plug and they needed to clean the intake manifold. Second time they told us that the Throttle Position Sensor was bad and the rest of the plugs were fouled as well. Tommorow it has to go back in because that check engine light is back on. Does anyone have any suggestions. We aren't having to pay for these repairs, but after owining a vehicle for 2 weeks I would like to actually been able to drive it occasionally.
Sorry about your bad luck so far with that Jeep. At least it hasn't cost you anything yet, except frustration. I hope they get the problem figured out and fixed for ya.
Jeeps are really extremely reliable, so the problems that you are experiencing right now are by no means typical. With a used Jeep, though, you don't know how well it has been maintained, or what repairs have been performed in the past.
Let us know how this all turns out. I sure hope you get to start enjoying that Jeep soon.
We just completed the installation of a Tuffy Overhead Security Console and will be working on the installation of a Tuffy Stereo Security Console (replacement for the factory center console) today.
While I have not seen the security insert, based on the other Tuffy products we have seen I would say it should be well worth it. If you can afford to replace the entire center console, do it. If DC was really on the ball, they would contract with Tuffy to put these in every Wrangler.
You can look at the following URL for a review of the Overhead Security Console...
Don't know if this would fix your problem, but often a check engine light is as simple as gas cap not fitting right. The guys here on this board say that the codes can be read by independent mechanics (maybe Pep Boys?) - that might help give you some idea if the dealership is on the right track. Several years ago the check engine light come on in the '98 Sport once or twice when I had been off-roading on some rough roads, but it cleared itself the next time I started the vehicle and I never bothered to follow up on it. Now that I think about it, that happened before I had the exhaust manifold replaced, so that might have had something to do with it.
Good luck with tracking it down - maybe mac will have some better ideas.
Take it to AutoZone. They will plug in and interpret the codes for you. That will let you know what the code said, and then when you take it to the dealer you can compare what they tell you. It will at least let you know how truthful they are.
We picked up a 99 Wrangler Sahara with 44008 miles in May and it has been fantastic. My brother-in-law has an 85 that has also been very reliable. Jeeps are good for that. At least it is being covered for you. Once these issues are fixed, you will most likely get many years out of it.
Mtngal, I fully agree with you. "Buy it for what it is." A word of caution to the new Jeep owners-its not a sports car. Pay attention when cornering-especially after it rains and you are on oil slicked roads or highway exits with a slight bank. Very easy for the Wrangler to slide a little in these conditions. Even at slow speeds the rear end will come around on you if conditions are wet and slippery. I mention this because it has been raining hard here and I recently spoke to a new Jeep owner who lost control on a rain soaked exit ramp that had an oily surface. He spun out at 35 mph and hit the barrier on the side of the ramp. Those of us who have owned Jeeps for awhile know this and drive accordingly and hopefully know how to correct this when it happens. Also, a quick question to anyone. Has anyone had Rhino liner installed just in the rear bed of their Jeep? If you have had it installed, exactly what was sprayed? The entire bed including inside surface of the wheel wells, etc? Thanks, John
I was all set to have Thelma Jane Rhino-Lined, but I ran out of $$$.
I had my appointment set up, and I was in the process of removing the rear seat belt mounts and the back seat floor brackets. The guy who was going to spray the Rhino-Liner was going to charge about $200 more, if he had to remove and re-install that stuff himself. I was supposed to show up with the console and the passenger seat removed. The guy would have removed the drivers seat as part of his work, but that was it.
I intended to have the Rhino-Liner installed everywhere that there was originally carpet, including on the side walls of the cargo area.
I have heard nothing but good things about Rhino-Lining, and I still hope to be able to have it done some day.
On our Jeep they sprayed everything. It covers the entire inside. They pullled the seats, center console, etc. It covers the wheel wells, the inside of the rear tailgate, etc. It was a really nice job. I have no idea who did it or how much it cost, but I am betting it was expensive.
Within the last 500 miles my 98 Wrangler with 87,300 mi has developed a rhythmic chirping noise in the right front wheel. The noise gets faster as the speed of the vehicle increases, but after a certain point is drowned out as the engine runs at higher rpms. Little affects the noise - it doesn't change with road surfaces, it doesn't change when I'm turning, it doesn't matter what forward gear I'm in or if I'm in neutral, it doesn't matter if I'm accelerating or decelerating. There are two times when it doesn't make the noise - 1. when I'm backing up and 2. when the vehicle is standing still. Also, it seems like when I start driving after it's be sitting that the noise doesn't start for a little while into the drive and that time interval seems to be dependent upon how long it's been sitting. For example, after it had been sitting for about 20 hours - the noise didn't start for maybe 30 minutes into the drive, but when it had been sitting for 15 or 20 minutes, the noise started 2-3 minutes into the drive.
Definitely some ideas. The fact that it only happens when driving and is independent of terrain tells you it's being caused by the rotating assembly (meaning axles to brakes to bearings to wheel and tire). Since it also doesn't happen when backing up, I would first look at the brakes. If you can, roll along at a slow clip (say 20 mph) with the windows down so you can hear well, and then slightly push the brake pedal. If the noise ceases when the pads contact the rotor (you can tell as you start to feel them grab) then you're probably dealing with an easy brake fix, such as new pads or even rotor. If the noise continues, then you might want to start looking at an inspection at a qualified shop. As you get into items like wheel bearings, the difficulty of the repair and importance of getting it done right go up a bunch...Sounds like you're a very detail-oriented person, and this will help you point the shop in the right direction. I've seen issues like this when part of the brakes rubs an aftermarket wheel without enough spacing, or when a bearing starts to fail after enough miles, or even caused by debris caught in the brake assembly rubbing on the wheel.
Thanks for the help. I've already tried the brake test and the noise doesn't stop then - so I am a little concerned. I never thought of the possibility of the brake rubbing on the aftermarket wheel or that it could be the bearings. I had a 98 GC and the bearings had to be replaced at 85k, so it could be a similar issue with this Jeep. Thanks for the insight. I'm probably going to go ahead and get it checked out by my mechanic.
hey everybody...I am nenw to this board and the whole jeep scene. Im am just about to sell my volvo s70 to replace it witht a wrangler. I am looking to buy a 99 with 75000 miles, manual, 4.0 liter, ect. Its in great shape. I was also looking at a 97 wrangler for around the same price however. This jeep had custom paint jobs, was lifted, 35" tires, 1500 stereo system, cold air intake, and dual exaust. Its only a 4cyl though. I am going to most likely buy the 99 because Ive heard you should only get a 6 cyl when buying a jeep, and it also has less miles, but less goodies. What do you think?
98 Wrangler 4L expired in the driveway. Engine cranks but will not start. Noticed that gauges in instrument cluster (fuel level, etc) also are not working with key in acc or engine on positions. Checked all fuses inside the glovebox and also in the power dist center (PDC) under hood, even switched out few relays w/new in latter. Plenty of 12v juice as everything else works fine and engine turns over as usual. Added some gas to tank in case fuel level gauge was out (nope). Also put a fuel pressure gauge on the MPI rail and got reading of 0 while cranking. So apparently no fuel (have replaced fuel pump about 1 yr ago). Gauges not working makes me suspect a relay/fuse that may be hidden somewhere or computer. Any suggestions?
There is a ground connection on the TJ (or two, I seem to recall that there is only one) that comes loose attached to the instrument cluster. If it comes off, the gauges stop working.
I don't recall that this causes problems with starting the vehicle, but I know it makes the gauges stop.
Several things can cause the PCM not to run the pump, a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), and a faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (also a CPS!) being the most common. However, neither of those will affect the instruments.
Bearing in mind the difficulty in diagnosis at a distance, I'd put a faulty clockspring high on the list, together with the possibility that the PCM has gone bad.
Custom paint, big wheels, and general bling add little if anything to the value of a vehicle, and often detract from it. Brom a buyers perspective, the best value is a vehicle that, as well as having properly maintained, is in as standard 'unmessed with' condition as possible.
I also just sold an 98 S70 to buy a wrangler. I am sure there are more folks that can help you here better but my 2 cents ... I have an 05 6cyl and love it. I have talked to a friend who used to have a 4cyl and wished they would have gone with the 6cyl. From the research I have done if properly cared for the Jeep can last just as long as the old style Volvo's (S70 isn't one of these)
i got a brand new jeep i didn't do any study before i bought it . i have a soft top and it 's been off twice i already have scratches on the plastic windows the eighteen wheelers blow you off the road the cd player is way to weak and it already got broken in to so i need a alarm . help
It's in the steering wheel and allows constant connection with the airbags, horn, and cruise control. However, unlikely as it seems, a lot of other functions are dependent on correct resistance connections to the clockspring. It's often caused by getting wet.
i got a brand new jeep i didn't do any study before i bought it . i have a soft top and it 's been off twice i already have scratches on the plastic windows the eighteen wheelers blow you off the road the cd player is way to weak and it already got broken in to so i need a alarm . help
An alarm won't stop someone breaking in, you can add an amp to the sound system, you could change lanes when you see an eighteen wheeler coming, the scratches can be polished out of the windows if they're not too deep, and there's nothing you can do about your failure to research the purchase of your Jeep! :P
However, I'm sure you know all that, so seriously, are you just venting or is there a specific question here? By the way, do you have an SE because the 4.0 should be plenty to pull past those truckers.
Like Mac said, you venting, blaming the Jeep, or what?
In regards to the soft top - read the manual and take the windows off and the top down correctly. I clean my windows of grime and dirt before removing them. I then store them in a bag I keep in my garage high off the floor. If you just throw them in back, you're going to get scratches. If you want to keep them with you in case of rain or whatever, you can get a bag that rolls up the windows with the top when it is down.
18 wheelers will blow an SE away if going up hill. I have an SE and can usually keep up with the trucks no problem. When I go uphill, forget it. They pass me. As long as I know they are coming, I'm prepared for the turbulence and I just shrug and think, "At least my top is down, doors are off, and I'm STILL Loving my ride!" It's a Jeep, not a Vette.
If somebody breaks into your soft top, you must make sure you do not keep anything of value in it for them to take. I have a Tuffy Center console that I basically only keep my insurance and registration in. Everything else of value is left out. Tuffy also makes underseat security boxes which help hide stuff. They also make secure glove boxes.
I went aftermarket on my stereo unit (and it is secured as best I can do at this time). It is plenty powerful to hear when on the highway, even when I'm being passed by trucks.
If the noise and performance of a Wrangler bothers you, then perhaps it wasn't the right choice for you. You could consider a hard top and full doors for additional security and a bit quieter noise, but that additional weight will be tough on a 4 cylinder.
I was just wondering about whether you have 1 or 2 different problems. The reason I ask is that I noticed your Wrangler was a '98 and you mentioned that the dash gauges aren't working. Some '98 models had a problem where all the dash gauges would quit working. It did NOT affect starting the vehicle etc. so wouldn't be the whole story for your problem. There's an easy fix to the dash gauge problem (if you search back there's been several discussions here about fixing it).
Just thought I might throw that out in case yours has the dash gauge problem and that's distracting from figuring out the fuel problem. Good luck with figuring it out.
Tom. Thanks for the response. I have 4 places that do the Rhino-Liner install, all within 10 miles. I'm going to each one and then will figure out what to do per price. Money is always an issue. I will let you know what it is now to get it done.I may only have the rear of Rosie done because of $. Just to let you know, I now have 24000 miles on my GSA's, (14000 miles on Rosie since Sept.when I purchased her) so I am getting close to the purchase of new tires (more $). I may get another 10000 out of the GSA's. The GSA's stink when its wet. Next tires will be GOOD rain tires. I must be making you crazy with tire questions but tires are vital on a Jeep, as you know. One question to you-what do you think is the biggest tire I can get and NOT loose any power with the dreaded 3.07 with the inline 6 with the 5 speed. I still do mainly pavement and some easy dirt roads for access to fishing. The more I use the 'search' feature and read about this the more confused I get. I want to get the right tires for my Jeep and enjoy decent control and power on the road. Anyhow, thanks. Also, thanks to Utahjeep for also responding to my Rhino-Liner question-it sounds like you got lucky when you purchased your Jeep with it already installed. Everyone Have a Safe 4th. John
Tom. I just read this post of yours. I was reading the older ones first. Should have done the opposite. I think you answered my question in this post. I will probably go with the same size as the GSA's , just a better tire. Possibly the BFG AT's, if they come in smaller sizes. Just hugged her, John
John, do you have the limited slip (Trac Lok)? I have the limited slip and haven't noticed any problems with fish taling. I have even tried a couple of time to really gun it in the rain in open parking lot just and I could feel the limited slip engage every time and dramatically decrease wheel spin.Speaking of rain, it's been weeks since we've had any, and it finally started raining this morning.
I could seriously use some help if anyone has gone through the process of splicing in a wiring kit for a trailer hitch on an 05 (unlimited). I ordered the hitch and kit from Quadratec and the sales guy said the only wiring kit available for an 05 requires splicing. Well I get the wiring kit and there is no instruction sheet at all. I go to the manufacturer's web site - no help; I call the manufacturer - no help. I ask the service dept at the dealership and they tell me there is no consistency to wire colors and function so I should get a light tester to sort it out. So I go buy a light tester but the wires are so thin and the sharp probe doesn't get through the insulation so I can't determine which wire is doing turn signal vs. brake etc. I next pulled apart the plug connection where the 4 wires split off from the 8 wire bundle to supply the back left light housing but sticking the probe into each port produces no light (yes, I did have the turn signal flashing so one of them should have had power). I did test the light tester just to make sure it was good and it is. I'm frustrated and have wasted half of my day off monkeying with this already....... any insight or suggestions would be most welcome! Boyd
The time used playing with the tester would have been better spent Googling. Less than thirty seconds produced the harness you need! :P
The Unlimited is different to the other models, and even differs between the '04 and '05. You end up with a seven pin socket (no bad thing), so you'll need a seven to four pin adapter (about $10) as well.
Anyhow, go HERE for the plug in harness you need. It's part #82209182 @$79.
I had hydroplaning problems with the GSA my "04" X had. I have the dreaded 3.07 with a 5 speed. I decided to install the highest rated all terrain tire, the Bridgestone Dueler Revo 30 x 9.50 x 15. Super quite, excellent everything, even looks agressive, it does look much bigger than the GSA., it looks as big as a 31 , but you can notice it is narrower than the 31 x 10.50. Performance on road is better on parking lots, not jerky anymore, slightly slower in 0-60 acceleration,maybe a second slower. Off-road, I got to go low range sooner, but still okay. And I now have to go 50 mph before I can cruise on 5th gear, a 5 mph difference. I am impressed by Bridgestone, especially if F1 Indianapolis was a good example of Bridgestone technical excellence.
Keats, my build sheet only says Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System. Nothing specific concerning the limited slip (Trac Loc). Bad luck.I have to rely on superior driving skills. Did you get your light rack yet? Door gremlins still there? John
Hey, John, no light bar yet. Takes a couple of weeks. The door is still rattling over bumps, but I just don't have time to take it into the dealer right now. Isn't your Jeep a Freedom or Columbia? I think the trac lok is only available with the dana 44 rear axle.
Comments
We still keep our '98 Sport. We only occasionally need a second vehicle and it would probably cheaper for us to rent one on those few occasions when we go different directions. However, I have no interest in selling it. We've owned it since it was new and while I now prefer the Unlimited, I can't quite see selling it just yet.
Be careful out there and thank you for giving up so much to keep us safe.
The 10.50" dimension is the WIDTH of the tire, and the 8" Moab wheels will handle 10.50" tires just fine.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
my tires are 10.5 wide,,, ( the tire is wider than the rim ) there are alot of people that put 12.5 wide tires on 8 inch wide rims, it lets them air down farther without blowing the bead when wheeling.
jeff
http://ptheune.net/~pir/photos/Jeep...ector/index.htm
You can also go to http://www.jeepgallery.com and select a lot of different things to see what people have done - perhaps with your model and color choice.
As for tires, my 15x8 Canyons will hold a 11.5" wide tire with no problem, possibly a 12.5. It is the backspacing and its relationship to my control arms and spring perches that I have to worry about. Spacers or new wheels would fix that, as I mentioned before.
To fit 33's, you really need 3-4 inches of lift. A budget boost will generally give you about 2. A 1" body lift will take you to 3" total. You could run 33's on the road with probably no problems, but if you offroad, you may have issues, especially if you disconnect your sway bar in front.
OME does make a 4" spring for a 4" lift, but when you get to that height, you have to be more concerned about your steering geometry. Even with an Unlimited, when you get to a 4" lift, you may have to deal with driveline vibrations. A SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) may be needed to prevent that.
-Paul
I think it's very similar to the effect Harleys had on motorcycles. Folks buy Harleys for their name and customization value not for the comfortable ride. Alot's changed now that nearly everyone is making a harley-like bikes.
The editors can't say that the Jeep rides better. Modern SUV's are constructed to give the most comfortable ride possible on road, then converted to offroad. Wranglers have always been made to be off road vehicles first. (Although, I do wonder at why I have cruise control) Wranglers don't get good mileage. Wranglers aren't quiet.
We didn't buy our jeeps for those reasons. It's so cliche, but there is a "Jeep thing". Jeeps are 100% convertable out of the showroom, off-road capable and chicks dig em.
The post rambles a bit, thanks for sticking with it.
As for Jeeps, it may not be that their review is wrong, but that they simply don't get it. If they discuss the road noise of a Wrangler, they are obviosuly missing the point.
Also, read enough CR car reviews and you'll soon learn that they hate every single car. Ever. Even "recommended" cars get backhanded compliments.
That's actuall what sent me to Edmunds way back when.
That thing is pretty cool and as evidenced by my back-and-forth on which Wrangler to get...I could use a sense of direction.
I probably would look for a used one on Ebay.
Just wondering if it's that much more secure than the factory insert?
-Dan
Everyone here who loves their Wranglers (like me) love them in spite of their short-comings. I'd rather have the reviewers pan them than to have too many owners buy them without realizing what they are buying and then complaining loudly about how awful they are. Buy it for what it is, not for a luxury commuter car.
p.s. - The other vehicle that we almost bought when we bought the Unlimited was a Forester XT (I got practical - the extra ground clearance won out over the WRX that I initially wanted). While the Forester might not be the most exciting car in the world, it would probably have made a better commuter car for us (in spite of the fact that it isn't a convertable).
Jeeps are really extremely reliable, so the problems that you are experiencing right now are by no means typical. With a used Jeep, though, you don't know how well it has been maintained, or what repairs have been performed in the past.
Let us know how this all turns out. I sure hope you get to start enjoying that Jeep soon.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
While I have not seen the security insert, based on the other Tuffy products we have seen I would say it should be well worth it. If you can afford to replace the entire center console, do it. If DC was really on the ball, they would contract with Tuffy to put these in every Wrangler.
You can look at the following URL for a review of the Overhead Security Console...
http://www.commtechreview.net/amaradio/tuffy1.htm
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Good luck with tracking it down - maybe mac will have some better ideas.
We picked up a 99 Wrangler Sahara with 44008 miles in May and it has been fantastic. My brother-in-law has an 85 that has also been very reliable. Jeeps are good for that. At least it is being covered for you. Once these issues are fixed, you will most likely get many years out of it.
I was all set to have Thelma Jane Rhino-Lined, but I ran out of $$$.
I had my appointment set up, and I was in the process of removing the rear seat belt mounts and the back seat floor brackets. The guy who was going to spray the Rhino-Liner was going to charge about $200 more, if he had to remove and re-install that stuff himself. I was supposed to show up with the console and the passenger seat removed. The guy would have removed the drivers seat as part of his work, but that was it.
I intended to have the Rhino-Liner installed everywhere that there was originally carpet, including on the side walls of the cargo area.
I have heard nothing but good things about Rhino-Lining, and I still hope to be able to have it done some day.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Any ideas what this could be?
I've seen issues like this when part of the brakes rubs an aftermarket wheel without enough spacing, or when a bearing starts to fail after enough miles, or even caused by debris caught in the brake assembly rubbing on the wheel.
Whats the price of the 99?
Can you get a look at all the maintance bills and the mileage when completed?
I don't recall that this causes problems with starting the vehicle, but I know it makes the gauges stop.
Bearing in mind the difficulty in diagnosis at a distance, I'd put a faulty clockspring high on the list, together with the possibility that the PCM has gone bad.
I also just sold an 98 S70 to buy a wrangler. I am sure there are more folks that can help you here better but my 2 cents ... I have an 05 6cyl and love it. I have talked to a friend who used to have a 4cyl and wished they would have gone with the 6cyl. From the research I have done if properly cared for the Jeep can last just as long as the old style Volvo's (S70 isn't one of these)
Hope this helps a little
Laura
help
slkvic
It's in the steering wheel and allows constant connection with the airbags, horn, and cruise control. However, unlikely as it seems, a lot of other functions are dependent on correct resistance connections to the clockspring. It's often caused by getting wet.
help
An alarm won't stop someone breaking in, you can add an amp to the sound system, you could change lanes when you see an eighteen wheeler coming, the scratches can be polished out of the windows if they're not too deep, and there's nothing you can do about your failure to research the purchase of your Jeep! :P
However, I'm sure you know all that, so seriously, are you just venting or is there a specific question here? By the way, do you have an SE because the 4.0 should be plenty to pull past those truckers.
In regards to the soft top - read the manual and take the windows off and the top down correctly. I clean my windows of grime and dirt before removing them. I then store them in a bag I keep in my garage high off the floor. If you just throw them in back, you're going to get scratches. If you want to keep them with you in case of rain or whatever, you can get a bag that rolls up the windows with the top when it is down.
18 wheelers will blow an SE away if going up hill. I have an SE and can usually keep up with the trucks no problem. When I go uphill, forget it. They pass me. As long as I know they are coming, I'm prepared for the turbulence and I just shrug and think, "At least my top is down, doors are off, and I'm STILL Loving my ride!" It's a Jeep, not a Vette.
If somebody breaks into your soft top, you must make sure you do not keep anything of value in it for them to take. I have a Tuffy Center console that I basically only keep my insurance and registration in. Everything else of value is left out. Tuffy also makes underseat security boxes which help hide stuff. They also make secure glove boxes.
I went aftermarket on my stereo unit (and it is secured as best I can do at this time). It is plenty powerful to hear when on the highway, even when I'm being passed by trucks.
If the noise and performance of a Wrangler bothers you, then perhaps it wasn't the right choice for you. You could consider a hard top and full doors for additional security and a bit quieter noise, but that additional weight will be tough on a 4 cylinder.
-Paul
Just thought I might throw that out in case yours has the dash gauge problem and that's distracting from figuring out the fuel problem. Good luck with figuring it out.
-Mike
The Unlimited is different to the other models, and even differs between the '04 and '05. You end up with a seven pin socket (no bad thing), so you'll need a seven to four pin adapter (about $10) as well.
Anyhow, go HERE for the plug in harness you need. It's part #82209182 @$79.
Just to show you what good value this forum is, you can get it for $10 less than that HERE.