Keats, I have to agree with Mac. Not on build sheet so I don't have Trac Loc. I must have one of the most inefficient Jeeps on the site.(on paper) But I love it and of course with my superior driving skills its the Jeep that scares Hummers off the road.:) Keats, its a Red Freedom. I went back to old posts exploring tires and the 3.07, and the #2 post was from Mac. Most of the other folks I did not recognize. I wonder where they all went? How's the Red Dragon Mac? Thanks , John
Thanks for the response. You said in your post "performance on road is better in parking lot".I am not certain what this means. Does not sound good if taken literally. The rest of your post is positive on the BDR. You have the dreaded 3.07 but do you have Trac-Loc? How are the BDR'S in the rain and snow? I was considering the BFG AT's or the Goodyear AT/s KO's but am open to suggestions. Its interesting. You own a car or truck and need something and just go out and buy it. You own a Jeep and its like a marriage proposal or a Supreme Court decision. But its fun-usually. Thanks, john
John, When I bought my BFG AT's (31x10.5) were on sale for $108 a tire at Town Fair Tire in Southington (Queen St). The manager gave me around $100 credit for my GSA spare that had never touched the pavement. You may want to keep them in mind.
Jeeps have a lower ratio than cars, so the bigger 30 x 9.50 x 15 compared to the 225 x 75 x 15 makes the jeep smoother on low speed parking lot driving, in effect making it more car like, off road I had to take a hit, I was already clutching on some slow speed 1st gear roads, meaning I would have to shift to low range sooner. I don't have lockers or limited slip. The rain and snow performance is excellent, I think it is the best in its class, the on road noise is even lower than my Honda Pilot with its highway tread tires ( test done with open windows). The downside is price, BFG can be had for about 25 percent less in price. This tire has made my Jeep an excellent daily driver and sometimes off-roader. All I need now is to install Bilstein monotube shocks, again another best product with a price of $65 each or double the usual Rancho etc.
Proving that I do stuff in the H1 that I don't do in the Wrangler!
Jeep related content...................doing this in an unmodified Wrangler will result in the fitting of a replacement engine (which won't be covered under warranty)!
As you can see from my previous post I've finally got around to posting a pic of my own (which was obviously taken by someone else).
Tom and others recommended Photobucket, which is expressly geared to hosting pics for forums and newsgroups etc. Multiple access isn't a problem and they'll automatically resize anything too that's big down to 250kb, as they've done above.
Very easy to use, and it's free, "So it must be good" as they say on TV.
Now THAT's some off-roading. I haven't seen that much water since last winter (and I wouldn't mind a little bit more right now - it's dry out here).
GiGi is heading for Vegas tomorrow (I'll have both air conditioning and removable windows) and I'm taking my window bag with me. I'll be probably returning Monday so I'm thinking about those dirt roads that avoid Four Corners. If I take one, my other half said that I'd have to wash her next weekend. Washing her would not be a bad trade if I can avoid a 2 hour delay!
Thanks a ton! I made the mistake of thinking if the Quadratec guy said it didn't exist then it didn't exist..... thanks for taking the time to search it out for me, this forum is awesome!
Now thats a picture!!! My wife Barbara just looked at the picture and responded , " thats amazing"!! A couple of important questions: Are the wipers on? Are you going up or down stream? Is that a swamp? Any water make its way inside or is the H1 extremely tight? Can a Ruby do that? If not, why? Whats way behind you and looks yellow? Nice touch with the running lights on. Sorry, but I remain a very curious person . Thanks Mac .John
Let me preface this by saying that H1s can do stuff that Wranglers can't......................and without question, Wranglers can do stuff that H1s can't.
So...............the wipers are off and in the parked position.
That's a stagnent swamp (the Green Swamp WMA actually).
It's watertight, but there are expanding rubber plugs in the floor (just like in the transom of a boat), which you should remove when fording so that the interior fills up and the vehicle can drive along the bottom. We didn't and were just starting to float!
No, an unmodified Rubi can't. The H1 air intake can be seen at the rear of the hood on the passenger side, whereas the Wrangler's is just behind and at the level of the passenger side headlight. The Jeep has a vertical radiator and the fan can be drawn in to damage it if it gets into water. The H1 has a vertical fan, but the radiator is at the same angle as the hood so the problem doesn't arise. At the depth we were at, a Wrangler would be running into electrical problems. The H1 is in standard configuration, but with the addition of a snorkel extension we could happily have gone deeper. Our Jeep is lightly modified with OME suspension and 31" tires, but I wouldn't take it to anything like that depth.
That's another H1 (yellow) behind us, there were about six of us that day.
All the lights were on, not just the running lights. Earlier we were running down dusty trails that were like driving in dense smoke or fog. It was a day of contrasts!
Oh, and it took a full half day to pressure clean it back to showroom condition, though I had to wait a day so that my wife could take it into work to show it off the the guys that doubted it ever got dirty.
And NO HORN My eldest son & I bought a 98 ( Dad always wanted one ). Any way, all seems up to the task except the horn and 12volt powerport doesn't function. Owners manual does not identify the fuse location and I do not see it listed on the main fuse block cover. Any Jeepsters have a clue or are familiar with my problem? Any help will be appreciated.
Well, I'm relatively new to this board as well (purchased a used 97TJ a few months ago) and have yet to offer any kind of advice at all (though I've gotten LOTS!)...I'm only 24, so hopefully my jeep tech will improve in the many years of Wrangler ownership to come...anyhow, here's my experience....
My TJ also came without a horn in its original location on the steering wheel...asked the dealer why this is, he said Jeeps seemed to run into this problem...horn just mysteriously stopped working, especially on these late 90's models...not sure if he was just blowing smoke, but maybe he was right. Fuses were fine, horn just stopped working (I also had this problem on my old chevy tracker, aka poor man's jeep...horn just stopped working on the wheel, even when the horn was replaced with a brand new one).
Anyhow, the jeep came with a 'convenient' horn button mounted below and to the left of the steering wheel (right below the light knob) that I so often hit with my left knee everytime a depressed the clutch in the first few days! LOL I recently installed fog lights myself with the switch in the same location but to the lower right of the steering wheel, and was going to re-route the horn to the right side as well, but found to much cluster behind the dash, and re-routing the wire would have been too difficult and not worth the effort and time. I've learned to deal with the horn in this location and haven't had any real problems...it works fine. Anyhow, sorry for the rambling, this is just an option you could use, as I was in a similar situation. Good luck.
Two different circuits here, both have fuses in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
The horn should be fuse #17 (20A) and it also has a relay located in the PDC. The fuse is in section A sockets 21/22, with the relay in section B using sockets 11-15 The circuit runs from the horn push, through the clockspring (see recent post), to the relay which picks up both trigger and feed power from the fuse, then power goes to the horns from the relay. Finally the horns complete the circuit with a ground return.
The cigar lighter/accessory socket is also fused in the PDC, #5 (40A) main section sockets 4/11, but its relay is located in the area behind the instriment panel, and it has an additional fuse in the fuse block behind the glovebox, #19 (20A). The circuit runs from its PDC fuse to the relay, which is triggered from the ignition switch, then on to the fuse in the fuse block and on to the outlet which completes the circuit with a ground connection.
Now you know the fuses and relays you should be easily to check the circuits with a mulitmeter.
...............asked the dealer why this is, he said Jeeps seemed to run into this problem...horn just mysteriously stopped working, especially on these late 90's models................
Rubbish........it's not a common problem and it's an easy circuit to check. Sounds like he just didn't want to be bothered. Also, you might want to check that you still have an airbag, as the horn, cruise, and airbag circuits come from the wheel via the clockspring. It's not unknown for the airbag not to be replaced after an accident (it's very expensive), and for the clockspring left disconnected. Not probable, but possible.
As for the previous owner rewiring the horn via a seperate switch in a different location, that makes as much sense as mounting a flashlight on the hood because a headlight went out! :confuse:
How would I (simply) go about checking to see if my airbag is still there? The airbag light comes on when I start the car, does this mean it is still there? I'm kinda curious now as to why the horn was relocated then.
If the airbag light illuminates then extinguishes after six to eight seconds everything should be ok. Details for checking the original horn circuit are just a couple of posts back.
A while back (maybe about a year ago?) I asked how to address the issue of paint flaking off my mirrors. Mac answered with this reply :
"The problem isn't so much with the paint, as the metal alloy that the mirror housing is cast from. It's the oxidation of the housing that lifts the paint off. The only way to repair it with any expectation of longevity is to take it back to bare bright metal, then immediately use a self etch primer. Follow this with a regular primer, lightly sand, then topcoat." Labor intensive, but probably less than $15 in materials.
I gave this a try yesterday and it worked pretty well. Labor intensive is right :surprise: . I spent most of the day scraping and sanding to get the old paint and oxidation off. Once it was off it was pretty easy from there; primer dried very quickly. Lightly sanded and sprayed on Flat black. Wishing I'd have went with semi-gloss, but I can live with flat for now. Thanks for the advice MAC, it worked out well.
I decided to do this because I bought Mirror Movers like Paul has. I think I bought the exact same ones. I figured, while I had them off why not finally paint them.
Paul - did you put the screws that held the mirrors on, in the original spot, back in? Or did you just leave them open/empty?
Glad it worked out. If you want the semi-gloss finish it's only a matter of letting flat finish dry thoroughly (manufacturers usually recommend 24hrs, I say at least a week), then lightly sand and recoat.
I have to ask (because you didn't mention it), did you use a self etch primer for the first priming coat?
Okay Wrangler owners/fans - I'm coming over from the foreign car side. I'm in the market for a vehicle for my teenage son and think the 2005 Wrangler is just what we need. He likes them and I've got to admit, I wouldn't mind taking it out as well. Here's my questions: What type of life expectancy (mileage) can I expect from a Jeep product? I'm spoiled with my Toyota and Honda. Although I've liked the Cherokee's body styling, I opted for the Honda Odyssey because of reliability concerns I heard about with Jeep products. Any concerns with the Wrangler? Secondly, I just started looking and I think the "X" model (manual trans) equipped with the Rocky Mountain package, air conditioning, and Deep Tint Sunscreen window should fit our needs. It will primarily be used for school commuting and casual use, nothing serious off-road. According to the True Market Value on this site, that price after $1000 incentive comes to $22,214. Will Jeep dealers negotiate off that price and does that price sound correct for the Maryland area? The Sport Edition appears to be more than I need and the SE looks too stripped down. What are "ecco" tires and wheels? Most of the Wranglers in the "X" model which I've seen have an aluminum alloy wheel? I saw a used one 2002 with leather seats but nowhere do I see leather as an option. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated as I enter the Wrangler World!!!
Properly serviced the 4.0 I6 should easily last 150k-200k miles.
Ecco is the name for the aluminum wheels on the right (marked that are an option on the 'X'. The Rocky comes with Ravine wheels (second pic, again marked .
Leather isn't a factory option but there are several aftermarket suppliers.
I can't address the issue of what Wranglers cost in Maryland, because I'm on the other side of the country from you.
I have a '98 Sport with 130,000 miles on it. It hasn't been trouble-free, but it hasn't been terrible either. The only 2 issues that cost big bucks were the exhaust manifold (this was re-designed in 2001, or around that time so it wouldn't be an issue with a new Wrangler) and the air conditioning compressor needed to be replaced. That one is NOT a usual problem, like the exhaust manifolds used to be. It is still parked in my driveway and still starts right up, even after having sat for a week or 2. It still has the original clutch in it.
I really like that X Rocky Mountain edition - it gives you all kinds of nice extras, like the Dana 44 rear axle. It would be a very nice choice.
If someone is selling a used Wrangler with leather seats, that's something they put in aftermarket. It isn't an option and hasn't been for as long as I've been actively following them.
The only thing to be aware of is that a SWB Wrangler doesn't handle like a car or other SUV - it turns on a dime (and gives you change) and has the aerodynamics of a brick wall. This isn't a good combination for high speed driving, especially in the wind. And the 4.0 L engine is low tech (a good thing for do-it-yourselfers), tough as anything out there, but very thirsty. It is hard to get anywhere near the EPA gas mileage ratings. The suspension is stiff for a reason, which makes the SWB Wrangler very bouncy at times, and there isn't much cargo room. The Unlimited, with it's longer wheelbase, is a much more comfortable vehicle for longer distances and day-to-day use (well, I might not have thought that when I was 20, come to think of it. At that time I really wanted a CJ).
Before commiting to buying one, make sure both you and your son take a long test drive to make sure that you will be comfortable with the ride. If so, then buy it - the Wrangler is the MOST fun vehicle I've ever owned. The '98 Sport has been so much fun that we traded in our 2000 Toyota Tacoma for a 2004 Unlimited. I still far prefer the seats in the Unlimited to the ones in the Tacoma, even after putting 44,000 miles on it.
I haven't made up my mind about the air conditioning in the Unlimited, which is a soft top (the Sport is a hard top). While it kept the vehicle bearable today, I was still hot and bothered when I discovered the store I was looking for wasn't where it was supposed to be. It didn't keep me cool and comfortable in this 108-110 degree heat (the thermometer said 110 when I started it in the Costco parking lot). On the local TV news they've come up with an interesting way of looking at the heat - instead of talking about the wet bulb temperature, they talk about the low relative humidity and take degrees off. They said that 108 with 8% humidity would only feel like 101. Yeah, right (like I believe this?). Winter won't come soon enough!
Still tackling the no start problem, due to no fuel at the MPI rail. Ruled out fuel pump and auto shut down relay. Bypassed fuel pump relay using a connecting wire in the relay socket and got normal fuel pressure (so relay to fuel pump elec circuit ok, fuel pump/filter/lines ok). Ign key on energizes corresponding relay socket terminals in both the fuel pump and auto shut down relays, so not ign switch. Getting ready to ck out fuel pump relay sockets connections but thinking now it must be PCM related. Hooked up OBDII scan tool to diagnostic port and got no signal from the PCM. PCM board mounting screw ground on firewall appears OK. So either the PCM is totally fried or power source is gone. Will look at today a bit but looks like I will relegate to dealer.
Dash gauges - did a board search per suggestion, but the link to repair instruction on another board is no longer available. From threads, assume this is due to loose connector on back of instrument cluster? Remove instrument cluster and clean/tighten terminals?
Again many thanks for suggestions, have a safe and happy 4th.
The instrument fix is concerned with the multi connector on the rear of the instrument panel. Just tweak the angle of the pins a little so they make better contact with their respective sockets, then treat them with a little dielectric grease before reassembly.
Aluminum oxidizes instantaneously in air. Literally as soon as a fresh surface is exposed it oxidizes, and it goes downhill from there until the oxidization seals the surface completely to protect it, then the process virtually stops (depending on the composition of the aluminum alloy). You'll often see unpainted aluminum boats for this reason. The natural surface can be more protective than paint.
So to paint aluminum, something is needed to cut through the surface layer and lock on to the metal. A self etch primer does just that. It's acidic to etch the surface, and it dries to a finish that allows a regular primer to lock onto it.
You have the choice of removing the paint already applied, resanding, then repainting (this time using a self etch before the regular primer). Or, you can wait until it comes off on its own.
Personally, I'd remove it now using laquer thinner, as the paint will still be soft and easy to remove. Nothing like as difficult as removing the factory finish. I recently bought a spray can of self etch from NAPA for around $5. I'm not surprised you had trouble finding it..........you might as well ask for chicken lips at Autozone type places. :shades:
Can i ask all you experts for some advice? I'm going to buy an '05 Rubicon Unlimited, and am having a great debate with myself about auto vs. manual. Manual just seems more true to the car, but the auto isn't bad - i've test-driven both. I am concerned about how much control i'll have offroad with the manual. Advice? Thanks very much...
Thanks Mac. I'll probably wait for it to flake off again. At least I know where to look for the Self etch primer now (NAPA).
Jeff, having the doors off is great isn't it? I took mine off Saturday and they haven't been back on since. We've had a rare beautiful weekend of sun and perfect temps. Last night, coming home from a party I was at, was pretty chilly though :surprise:
Without a garage, I'll probably have to put them back on tonight.
Mac, that was an awesome picture of your Hummer, and absolutely an unmodified Rubicon couldn't do that, but one with just a few extras, like a $250 ARb snorkel could, here's a pic for Koolbreeze:
A guy posted this from his weekend on a Rubicon forum I frequent. It should be noted he's also running 37 inch tires with 4:88 gears.
Excellent pic.............I can almost feel the bug bites! :sick:
I'd put the emphasis on the 37" tires and the lift required to fit them, rather than the ARB snorkel, on the list of upgrades needed to safely deal with that depth.
Does anyone know the average life expectancy of a 4.0 water pump? I'm thinking about taking my 1999 Sahara on a 1200 mile round trip and I'd like to avoid any unpleasant surprises... Thanks!
...............and the mileage already on your Sahara is? :confuse:
Doesn't really matter because if you don't now replace it, it's bound to fail. And if you do, then the pump you remove will look like new. Perhaps the best solution is to take a spare with you, then return it if you don't use it.
A 1200 mile trip sounds a lot, but it's really only equal to three or four weeks regular driving for most people (except mtngal!), and you wouldn't normally worry about changing the pump in case it failed in the next three or four weeks would you?
I've got almost 88000 miles on it. And I agree onthe spare part syndrome; I carried a spare pump in my 1973 Bavaria for nearly seven years and the water pump on the car lasted 90K miles rather than the usual 60K. In the present case, I just wanted to know if I was pushing my luck; I don't mind having the pump croak 11 miles from home-600 miles away is a different matter...
I've got close to 130,000 miles on the Sport and haven't had a problem with the water pump.
Manual vs. auto - both have advantages and disadvantages off-road. Depends on what you plan on doing and which you prefer. While I've had fun with our manual Sportl, I think it's the last manual I'll probably own. My back thanks me for getting the Unlimited in an auto, and it seems to be handling our daily commute with it's large elevation gain quite well so far (over 44,000 miles so far).
1200 miles isn't that big of a trip, especially if it is round trip.. Though I do understand about not wanting to be stranded anywhere. I was afraid the Taco was going to strand us in Baker, CA once - not a great place to have car problems!
Has anyone seen a source for the brackets to put the mirror back on the doors? Mine has mirror movers but the seller had lost the original door brackets. I need to get the mirrors back on the doors.
you should be able to get the green slip (at all dealerships) & rebates right now. (at least you can in indiana.) It doesnt hurt to ask and it will get you lots more of the msrp.
For a moment I thought that was Rosie and me with her 3.07, no Trac-Loc, small GSA's, and perpetual wax job. Then I noticed the snorkel, the winch, the spots. Sure does look like me and Rosie though. Great pic Keats.Watch your back Mac (sound like a song) . Koolbreeze.
When I took my mirrors off, I just removed the mirror portion. The mount itself is still on the door, which is in my garage. I only used the washer and nut. The spring for inside the mirror mount is sitting in my toolbox, right next to the nuts for holding the doors on.
Your best best for the brackets that mount on the doors would probably be the dealer, though Q-tec or JCW might have an aftermarket solution for you.
Quadratec and others - as well as the dealer - seem to sell complete assemblies with mirrors and brackets. I have not found the standard door brackets alone yet.
On another Jeep board I go to there is talk about DC offering employee discounts on their vehicles to the general public, like GM is doing.
If this it true, a Wrangler can be bought for up to five percent BELOW invoice, and then the $1000 rebate is applied to lower the price even further, if I understand correctly.
Comments
John, When I bought my BFG AT's (31x10.5) were on sale for $108 a tire at Town Fair Tire in Southington (Queen St). The manager gave me around $100 credit for my GSA spare that had never touched the pavement. You may want to keep them in mind.
-Dan
Well, since you ask.......... :shades:
Proving that I do stuff in the H1 that I don't do in the Wrangler!
Jeep related content...................doing this in an unmodified Wrangler will result in the fitting of a replacement engine (which won't be covered under warranty)!
Tom and others recommended Photobucket, which is expressly geared to hosting pics for forums and newsgroups etc. Multiple access isn't a problem and they'll automatically resize anything too that's big down to 250kb, as they've done above.
Very easy to use, and it's free, "So it must be good" as they say on TV.
GiGi is heading for Vegas tomorrow (I'll have both air conditioning and removable windows) and I'm taking my window bag with me. I'll be probably returning Monday so I'm thinking about those dirt roads that avoid Four Corners. If I take one, my other half said that I'd have to wash her next weekend. Washing her would not be a bad trade if I can avoid a 2 hour delay!
I always like to know more than the salesman and be able to tell him what I want, rather than ask what I can have. Sadly, that's not hard these days.
So...............the wipers are off and in the parked position.
That's a stagnent swamp (the Green Swamp WMA actually).
It's watertight, but there are expanding rubber plugs in the floor (just like in the transom of a boat), which you should remove when fording so that the interior fills up and the vehicle can drive along the bottom. We didn't and were just starting to float!
No, an unmodified Rubi can't. The H1 air intake can be seen at the rear of the hood on the passenger side, whereas the Wrangler's is just behind and at the level of the passenger side headlight. The Jeep has a vertical radiator and the fan can be drawn in to damage it if it gets into water. The H1 has a vertical fan, but the radiator is at the same angle as the hood so the problem doesn't arise. At the depth we were at, a Wrangler would be running into electrical problems. The H1 is in standard configuration, but with the addition of a snorkel extension we could happily have gone deeper. Our Jeep is lightly modified with OME suspension and 31" tires, but I wouldn't take it to anything like that depth.
That's another H1 (yellow) behind us, there were about six of us that day.
All the lights were on, not just the running lights. Earlier we were running down dusty trails that were like driving in dense smoke or fog. It was a day of contrasts!
Oh, and it took a full half day to pressure clean it back to showroom condition, though I had to wait a day so that my wife could take it into work to show it off the the guys that doubted it ever got dirty.
-Dan
Any way, all seems up to the task except the horn and 12volt powerport doesn't function. Owners manual does not identify the fuse location and I do not see it listed on the main fuse block cover. Any Jeepsters have a clue or are familiar with my problem? Any help will be appreciated.
My TJ also came without a horn in its original location on the steering wheel...asked the dealer why this is, he said Jeeps seemed to run into this problem...horn just mysteriously stopped working, especially on these late 90's models...not sure if he was just blowing smoke, but maybe he was right. Fuses were fine, horn just stopped working (I also had this problem on my old chevy tracker, aka poor man's jeep...horn just stopped working on the wheel, even when the horn was replaced with a brand new one).
Anyhow, the jeep came with a 'convenient' horn button mounted below and to the left of the steering wheel (right below the light knob) that I so often hit with my left knee everytime a depressed the clutch in the first few days! LOL I recently installed fog lights myself with the switch in the same location but to the lower right of the steering wheel, and was going to re-route the horn to the right side as well, but found to much cluster behind the dash, and re-routing the wire would have been too difficult and not worth the effort and time. I've learned to deal with the horn in this location and haven't had any real problems...it works fine. Anyhow, sorry for the rambling, this is just an option you could use, as I was in a similar situation. Good luck.
The horn should be fuse #17 (20A) and it also has a relay located in the PDC. The fuse is in section A sockets 21/22, with the relay in section B using sockets 11-15 The circuit runs from the horn push, through the clockspring (see recent post), to the relay which picks up both trigger and feed power from the fuse, then power goes to the horns from the relay. Finally the horns complete the circuit with a ground return.
The cigar lighter/accessory socket is also fused in the PDC, #5 (40A) main section sockets 4/11, but its relay is located in the area behind the instriment panel, and it has an additional fuse in the fuse block behind the glovebox, #19 (20A). The circuit runs from its PDC fuse to the relay, which is triggered from the ignition switch, then on to the fuse in the fuse block and on to the outlet which completes the circuit with a ground connection.
Now you know the fuses and relays you should be easily to check the circuits with a mulitmeter.
Rubbish........it's not a common problem and it's an easy circuit to check. Sounds like he just didn't want to be bothered. Also, you might want to check that you still have an airbag, as the horn, cruise, and airbag circuits come from the wheel via the clockspring. It's not unknown for the airbag not to be replaced after an accident (it's very expensive), and for the clockspring left disconnected. Not probable, but possible.
As for the previous owner rewiring the horn via a seperate switch in a different location, that makes as much sense as mounting a flashlight on the hood because a headlight went out! :confuse:
How would I (simply) go about checking to see if my airbag is still there? The airbag light comes on when I start the car, does this mean it is still there? I'm kinda curious now as to why the horn was relocated then.
Thanks
"The problem isn't so much with the paint,
as the metal alloy that the mirror housing is cast from.
It's the oxidation of the housing that lifts the paint off.
The only way to repair it with any expectation of longevity is to
take it back to bare bright metal, then immediately use a self etch primer.
Follow this with a regular primer, lightly sand, then topcoat."
Labor intensive, but probably less than $15 in materials.
I gave this a try yesterday and it worked pretty well. Labor intensive is right :surprise: . I spent most of the day scraping and sanding to get the old paint and oxidation off. Once it was off it was pretty easy from there; primer dried very quickly. Lightly sanded and sprayed on Flat black. Wishing I'd have went with semi-gloss, but I can live with flat for now. Thanks for the advice MAC, it worked out well.
I decided to do this because I bought Mirror Movers like Paul has. I think I bought the exact same ones. I figured, while I had them off why not finally paint them.
Paul - did you put the screws that held the mirrors on, in the original spot, back in?
Or did you just leave them open/empty?
-Dan
I have to ask (because you didn't mention it), did you use a self etch primer for the first priming coat?
Secondly, I just started looking and I think the "X" model (manual trans) equipped with the Rocky Mountain package, air conditioning, and Deep Tint Sunscreen window should fit our needs. It will primarily be used for school commuting and casual use, nothing serious off-road. According to the True Market Value on this site, that price after $1000 incentive comes to $22,214. Will Jeep dealers negotiate off that price and does that price sound correct for the Maryland area? The Sport Edition appears to be more than I need and the SE looks too stripped down. What are "ecco" tires and wheels? Most of the Wranglers in the "X" model which I've seen have an aluminum alloy wheel? I saw a used one 2002 with leather seats but nowhere do I see leather as an option. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated as I enter the Wrangler World!!!
Ecco is the name for the aluminum wheels on the right (marked
Leather isn't a factory option but there are several aftermarket suppliers.
Check out the Wranglers on Jeep .com HERE.
I have a '98 Sport with 130,000 miles on it. It hasn't been trouble-free, but it hasn't been terrible either. The only 2 issues that cost big bucks were the exhaust manifold (this was re-designed in 2001, or around that time so it wouldn't be an issue with a new Wrangler) and the air conditioning compressor needed to be replaced. That one is NOT a usual problem, like the exhaust manifolds used to be. It is still parked in my driveway and still starts right up, even after having sat for a week or 2. It still has the original clutch in it.
I really like that X Rocky Mountain edition - it gives you all kinds of nice extras, like the Dana 44 rear axle. It would be a very nice choice.
If someone is selling a used Wrangler with leather seats, that's something they put in aftermarket. It isn't an option and hasn't been for as long as I've been actively following them.
The only thing to be aware of is that a SWB Wrangler doesn't handle like a car or other SUV - it turns on a dime (and gives you change) and has the aerodynamics of a brick wall. This isn't a good combination for high speed driving, especially in the wind. And the 4.0 L engine is low tech (a good thing for do-it-yourselfers), tough as anything out there, but very thirsty. It is hard to get anywhere near the EPA gas mileage ratings. The suspension is stiff for a reason, which makes the SWB Wrangler very bouncy at times, and there isn't much cargo room. The Unlimited, with it's longer wheelbase, is a much more comfortable vehicle for longer distances and day-to-day use (well, I might not have thought that when I was 20, come to think of it. At that time I really wanted a CJ).
Before commiting to buying one, make sure both you and your son take a long test drive to make sure that you will be comfortable with the ride. If so, then buy it - the Wrangler is the MOST fun vehicle I've ever owned. The '98 Sport has been so much fun that we traded in our 2000 Toyota Tacoma for a 2004 Unlimited. I still far prefer the seats in the Unlimited to the ones in the Tacoma, even after putting 44,000 miles on it.
I haven't made up my mind about the air conditioning in the Unlimited, which is a soft top (the Sport is a hard top). While it kept the vehicle bearable today, I was still hot and bothered when I discovered the store I was looking for wasn't where it was supposed to be. It didn't keep me cool and comfortable in this 108-110 degree heat (the thermometer said 110 when I started it in the Costco parking lot). On the local TV news they've come up with an interesting way of looking at the heat - instead of talking about the wet bulb temperature, they talk about the low relative humidity and take degrees off. They said that 108 with 8% humidity would only feel like 101. Yeah, right (like I believe this?). Winter won't come soon enough!
You could always hit something. :P
(Sorry. Couldn't resist.)
-Mike
The two places I looked didn't have it and I didn't feel like looking all over town.
I tried to make the metal surface as rough as I could with the sandpaper before I sprayed on the regular primer.
-Dan
I wish I done that a long time ago.
Now of course, it hasn't rained in a month and this morrning, its raining.
jefff
Dash gauges - did a board search per suggestion, but the link to repair instruction on another board is no longer available. From threads, assume this is due to loose connector on back of instrument cluster? Remove instrument cluster and clean/tighten terminals?
Again many thanks for suggestions, have a safe and happy 4th.
The instrument fix is concerned with the multi connector on the rear of the instrument panel. Just tweak the angle of the pins a little so they make better contact with their respective sockets, then treat them with a little dielectric grease before reassembly.
Good luck.
So to paint aluminum, something is needed to cut through the surface layer and lock on to the metal. A self etch primer does just that. It's acidic to etch the surface, and it dries to a finish that allows a regular primer to lock onto it.
You have the choice of removing the paint already applied, resanding, then repainting (this time using a self etch before the regular primer). Or, you can wait until it comes off on its own.
Personally, I'd remove it now using laquer thinner, as the paint will still be soft and easy to remove. Nothing like as difficult as removing the factory finish. I recently bought a spray can of self etch from NAPA for around $5. I'm not surprised you had trouble finding it..........you might as well ask for chicken lips at Autozone type places. :shades:
I'll probably wait for it to flake off again. At least I know where to look for the Self etch primer now (NAPA).
Jeff, having the doors off is great isn't it?
I took mine off Saturday and they haven't been back on since.
We've had a rare beautiful weekend of sun and perfect temps.
Last night, coming home from a party I was at, was pretty chilly though :surprise:
Without a garage, I'll probably have to put them back on tonight.
-Dan
A guy posted this from his weekend on a Rubicon forum I frequent. It should be noted he's also running 37 inch tires with 4:88 gears.
I'd put the emphasis on the 37" tires and the lift required to fit them, rather than the ARB snorkel, on the list of upgrades needed to safely deal with that depth.
Thanks!
Doesn't really matter because if you don't now replace it, it's bound to fail. And if you do, then the pump you remove will look like new. Perhaps the best solution is to take a spare with you, then return it if you don't use it.
A 1200 mile trip sounds a lot, but it's really only equal to three or four weeks regular driving for most people (except mtngal!), and you wouldn't normally worry about changing the pump in case it failed in the next three or four weeks would you?
I've got close to 130,000 miles on the Sport and haven't had a problem with the water pump.
Manual vs. auto - both have advantages and disadvantages off-road. Depends on what you plan on doing and which you prefer. While I've had fun with our manual Sportl, I think it's the last manual I'll probably own. My back thanks me for getting the Unlimited in an auto, and it seems to be handling our daily commute with it's large elevation gain quite well so far (over 44,000 miles so far).
1200 miles isn't that big of a trip, especially if it is round trip.. Though I do understand about not wanting to be stranded anywhere. I was afraid the Taco was going to strand us in Baker, CA once - not a great place to have car problems!
Your best best for the brackets that mount on the doors would probably be the dealer, though Q-tec or JCW might have an aftermarket solution for you.
-Paul
If this it true, a Wrangler can be bought for up to five percent BELOW invoice, and then the $1000 rebate is applied to lower the price even further, if I understand correctly.
Anyone have info on this?
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-Paul
FYI:
IF A DEALER SAYS THEY ARE UNABLE TO GIVE YOU GREENSLIP AND REBATES "THEY ARE LYING"
Are you saying that DC are now matching GM's employee discount program?