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Comments
Thanks
llevine
I still think I can install this myself with help but haven't decided yet if I will do so.
If you look at your gear ratio and tire size, the chart on the following link will tell you which gear and part number you need.
http://www.raingler.com/tech/speedoChart.asp
A 3.73 gearing with 33" tires would need a 31 tooth speedo gear. The Mopar P/N would be 52067631. You can get this part from a dealer for anywhere from 15 to 30 or so, depending on its popularity.
It is an easy swap to do. Here is an excellent writeup. This site has LOTS of incredible information for DIY'ers. http://www.4x4xplor.com/speedo.html
www.stu-offroad.com is another incredible source.
-Paul
However ................................the gearing change being referred to earlier (to correct the performance after a tire size change), is the final drive gearing in the axles. This needs to be calculated to provide the same overall ratio that existed before the change, and requires a fair degree of skill and equipment to perform. Bearing that in mind though, it's quite possible to do it oneself.
However, that being said, synthetic oil will do absolutely no harm if used in a low to average mileage Wrangler. In higher mileage engines it can leak past oil seals and cause drips, though this is an oil seal problem rather than one of the oil.
As the Wrangler I6 takes a little longer to break in than most modern engines, I'd say run it to 3k on dino, with an intermediate change of oil and filter at 1.5k, then switch to synthetic if you want to.
I wouldn't even THINK about doing the re-gearing work myself. To get the proper pre-loading and backlash for a good contact area between the teeth of the pinion gear and the teeth of the ring gear is not something that just anyone can do. It is definitely skilled labor, and you would want someone with experience to do the work.
About the best deal I have heard of for getting the gearing changed (by someone who knows what they are doing) is $150 per axle, just for the labor.
As far as the gearing you need, assuming you want to get back to your original RPM for a given speed, the gear ratio should go up by the same percentage as the tire diameter was increased. You went up 3" in diameter, which was an increase of 10%. Therefore, you would go to 4.10 gearing, which is 10% higher than the original 3.73 ratio.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
-Paul
Our jeep dealership doesn't seem to like jeeps ( i should say wranglers) they tried to talk me out of buying a wrangler, well all they talked me out of was buying it from them.
What exactly do I need to ask them ( or the dealer where I bought it ) to do to recalibrate my speedometer / odometer.
jeff
-Paul
When changing the speedo gear there are various (sometimes conflicting) charts available to indicate the new gear size. However, the rolling radius of different make/type tires of the same nominal size often varies. I like to use a GPS to determine the percentage of speedo inaccuracy, which then allows you to pick a speedo gear with a tooth count that's changed by that percentage.
nope, i've got a 2004 ( pre-rubicon unlimiteds).
I've got a friend with a GPS, that I've been thinking of having him check this out for me for quite some time, just not on top of the "to do" list.
I'll plan on doing the speedo gear swap myself.
thanks again,
jeff
This time get an Unlimited Rubicon! You may want to see if you can salvage anything off the old jeep, like doors, top, stuff you've added, etc... even if you don't use em, you can sell em on eBay.
-Paul
Realize if you want ABS you have to get the 6-cylinder, it is not an option on the SE. It is worth it I think in the rain; I live in the Pacific NW, so trust that I've had numerous opportunities to learn. Ditto on trac-loc, though it is not the best limited slip available and you will eventually have to replace the clutch packs inside it ~70K I've heard. I'm only at 28K myself right now.
You should go for the 6 cylinder (MUCH better than my old 4) though beware that Chrysler has raised the price of it since 1998 compared to the SE. When I bought mine the price difference was only around $1200 when you subtracted all the other stuff that was standard on the Sport (rear seat, stereo etc). It's quite a bit more than that now.
I hear that the new manual trannys are even worse than the old ones, a concept which I have a hard time grasping. The crappy 3-speed auto tranny is still there. I think what DC needs to do more than anything else for the Wrangler is to find a decent transmission for it.
For me, I would consider an Unlimited again or a Tacoma Double-Cab. Or maybe the new Toyota FJ, which may not be out soon enough if you need a vehicle immediately.
jeff
I know how much the lift improved my ability to climb over things without high centering, I'm just curious how the "numbers'" compare to stock.
jeff
With 05s being this late in a model year I have to believe you will be able to score a jeep for that employee price from here on out.
Personally, I am hoping for a return to the aggressive rebates so I can haggle my price down again and get the rebate money.
Doesn't sounds like a good option for isujeep, but it is something to keep in mind for lesser degrees of damage.
Because you are not dealing w/ a trade in I would disregard this comment.
I don't think there is any way this will be resolved by monday (August 1st deadline for employee discount).
Now you have a couple of different ways to go:
Option 1: Ask you salesman (woman) if the finance manager has any green slips laying around. If they do ask them if you can have it and explain you situation.
Option 2: I would go talk to a dealer let them know your situation (ASAP) and see if they can date the paper work prior to the employee discount dead-line. They will usually do this if you are willing\able to buy one or two days after the sale. The benifit of this is you are now able to see if there are any additional rebates for the following month you can take advantage of.
Hope this help and good luck w/ the insurance company.
Does anyone have suggestions on brands / models of bikini & safari tops?
I'm leaning toward buying a "sunlighter" from bestop. I like the idea of letting some light in, after all thats why the top is off.
Is there a difference in the different brands of channel? other than $20 in cost?
Jeff
going to do a little trail maintanence tomorrow in preparation for the 4x4 blast on Aug 11-13. http://www.trjc.com/Events/4x4Blast/index.htm
come on over if you have the 11-13 open.
I have a Rock Gear fullback top (a soft top / safari combo) on my TJ and it's of good quality.
Thanks
Maybe check with the vendor on installation. I know Warn makes some pretty solid ones. Their manual may show how to install it.
Remember, POST PICS when you do it!
-Paul
Just got my speaker adapters from Off-Road Toy Store. They allow you to upgrade to 5 1/4 in the dash vs. the original 4 x 6. The question is, which 5 1/4? Has anyone had good experience? I'm looking at Pioneer and Sony models, but I want to make sure I get a real increase in quality. Infinity Kappa seems to be talked about alot, but they seem very expensive, and I am going to use this Jeep as a Jeep, not a mobile DJ booth
Any suggestions on what to buy?
I too have 5.25's in my dash. I'm running MBQuarts in my fronts and I've installed baffles behind them to direct the sound forward instead of into the dash. I have Kicker 6x9's in the soundbar (aftermarket).
If you are running the factory head unit, you may end up wanting to change your head unit. Factory headunits don't always have the right amperage to properly drive aftermarket speakers. I put in Alpine head units and run 2 amps for my setup and the power output matches the speakers real well.
So just keep in mind, changing the speakers may help you somewhat, but if you get distortion at volume, that means your HU is having a hard time pushing the power to the speakers and an aftermarket stereo and/or amplifier will help greatly.
-Paul
I have (2) 5 1/4, (2) 6x9, and (2) 10" subs 750 watt amp, all Infinity. Then to top it off I have the new JVC 3 1/2" dvd/cd/mp3 player w/ jacks for the xbox. It is loud enough to here on my 1 1/2 hr (one way) interstate commute every day, but doesn't vibrate my neighbors house.
Infinity = quality sound.
Employee pricing is more of a marketing ploy and a great option for people who want to skip negotiating than it is the once in a lifetime opportunity.
(not really cuz could go on as long as there are 05's on the lot, but lets get back to my point.)
Why dont you perform an experiment for us?
Next week when the employee discount is over go to the nearest dealership get the best deal you can with rebates and talking down all you can off the MSRP (this will be with no trade) then when your done tell him you get the green slip discount and see what the real final price is. (The fortune teller says, $2000 less)
Please let us all know.
I agree. It doesn't matter if it's called a rebate, employee pricing, or a discount voucher, it's just a marketing tool to increase sales volume. Incidentally, the dealers in my area aren't handing out green (or any other color) slips so that purchasers can pretend to be employees. The deal is just a line on the invoice that equates to a discount equal to which a notional employee might get.
Bottom line......................never buy the deal, buy the car. I'll guess that if 'employee pricing' goes away, then a method of discounting the price an equal amount will appear. If it doesn't it's still better to get the vehicle in the exact specification you want for a few dollars more, than to get the 'deal of a lifetime' and have to live with the wrong color or equipment for the length of your ownership.
I definitely want to upgrade the HU at some point. I've had two Alpine's now, both at about $199, loved 'em both. Would do so again if I can ease my own "top down" security worries. I'm a little paranoid.
I'm off to find out whether red or green is positive, as the stock wires weren't labeled...I'll post a pic later tonight.
I will say it again, employee pricing is great for a certain segment of the population, but at the end of the day the deal is not usually any better than you could have gotten any other month.
I guess your opinion is different and I will respect that.
All I am trying to say to the guy is dont panic about getting it done by the end of the month. All it takes is a little extra effort and negotiating.
Now about this comparison you did at the beginning of the month, very doubtful since the employee discount was already there and the employee price would be the only one they would give you. I guarantee you are filling people heads with the wrong info. But I guess thats what happens on forums. So why were you looking? Because you knew we were going to be having this conversation or do you want a jeep now and just want to wait a little longer and pay more later?
Now I completely agree w/ you and the trade-in. They will try to stick it to you. Just do your online research Kelly Blue Book, Ebay, and of course Edmunds.
FYI:
Now about the green slip comment I made earlier. This is what they call there employee discount. They also have a supplier discount, but no color name. Now gm's discount is A-Buyer, and they also have a supplier discount (3% below invoice). I supplier is a company (but not all, just major distributors) that supply, but not limited to, engines, trannies, exterior, & interior lights.
Also if you are looking and maybe wanting an automatic ask if they have any w/ the 1000 rebate (dont know if it is still available, but doesn't hurt to ask), these were made before a certain date. This is something that your dealer wont tell you, but does exist (or did.) This is a spiff that Jeep will give to the dealerships, they sometimes call it dealer cash.
I know I am going on and on and I am sorry, so if there is anything I did not explain well enough please ask.
I am not trying to fill anyone's head with any misinformation and I apologize if anyone took it that way. I was just reporting what my deal was on the table and I know others have done similar deals this summer.
I am not sure why you think I am trying to fill people's heads with any information when the whole point of these forums is to share experiences and take from that what you will. I believe even Edmunds(I could be wrong, it might have been in USA Today or similar) ran an article describing how the Employee pricing can be a good deal but isnt necessarily any better than the other incentives or haggle price. It is just a really nice option for some people by making the experience easier. Are they trying to fill people's heads with misinformation as well?
As with anything in the forums, your mileage may vary.
I certainly didn't take it that way, and it would appear that only one person did.
As you correctly said, 'employee pricing' is just a discount currently on offer, but it's not necessarily the best deal.
As far as I'm concerned the price the dealer offers, 'employee pricing plus' or whatever, is the starting point for negotiation.
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2005-07-10-employee-discount-usat_x.htm
-Mike
tidester, host