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Toyota Tundra Problems
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Additionally, I own a Toyota Sienna, and many on those forums complain about the ABS clunk. I've decided to believe the clunk is due to shifting brake pads and ABS self-test, depending on the situation. I don't notice it on my van, though.
As for clatter, Lariat1's explanation is the best. MOST cars do this when cold. My VW Jetta certainly does, but after a short warm up, the little 1.8T engine is silky smooth!
A hint about cold starts and warm up. The old practice of starting a cold engine and letting it idle up to temperature is actually potentially harmful! It's prefered to start up and drive the car immediately but at more sudued rpms. Why? Because this better distributes oil to the engine and brings it up to temp better. Just idling increases the time it takes for the oil to get all through the engine.
kirstie_h
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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As for the Tundra, it's 20 degrees today - think I'll go to the dealer and test drive one - see if it makes noise on start up!
kirstie_h
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Too much sway in the truck. Feels really sloppy.
Armrest (on the right side) too short for an arm. Especially for a left hander like me. I drive with the left hand and tend to try to rest my other arm on that silly armrest.
Console is too low. Raise it up and it could be like an armrest on the bench seats.
The clock-kinda stupid location, but not a real deal breaker.
The "pump it up" lumbar support. Ineffective. I've had more support with an air mattress.
Back seat small- who cares? I ride in the front.
Steering column shifter. Does anybody else find it to be rather stiff? I feel like I am going to break it by forcing it.
Nowhere to sit the cell phone. It rattles around in the cupholders, and the top of the console won't remain propped open. It slams shut. Console also is a big rattle trap.
CD holders in the console are gimmicky as well as the coin holder. Amateur.
The garage opener/sunglass combo. Maybe okay, but my garage holder doesn't fit, and the door is too old to work with the programming. I'll try the sunglass option.
Windows really rattle when partially open.
Stuff in the back seat really goes flying across the leather when I turn. Between the sway and the leather, nothing stays on the seat.
These items are really minor, but I wanted to concur with what a guy said on a previous post.
Mostly the armrests. I can't get comfortable in the captain's seats.
Anybody experiencing any REAL problems though?
My garage door opener does fit and it's real nice just touching that tab to open the door and not have the opener clipped to my visor.
I have a cell phone rattling around in my cup holder quite a bit. I don't know too many vehicles that come with a cell phone holder built in though.
Steering column shifter on mine is no stiffer than any other auto trans car I've driven.
I have a 2000 SR-5 4x2. 29,000 miles on it-only been to the dealership for oil changes and one vibration problem with the brakes (at around 10k miles).
I don't understand why people defend a manufacturer of junk like that.
No problem with my Tundra.
I've had my 02 SR5 4WD TRD for just over 1 1/2 weeks and about 300 miles. Nothing to complain about yet, except that I didn't get the Red Ribbon that I was promised if it arrived before Xmas, or the cute Santa's helper that was going to help enjoy the new ride. Oh well, you can't have everything and if this is as good as it gets, I won't complain.
Everyone have a Safe and Happy New Years. Leave the roadways to the Rookies tonight.
Tony K. aka Controlgod
I thought the TRD suspension was levels above Ford and Chevy's - it's right for the truck!
I wish Toyota would offer heated mirrors, lumbar in front 60/40 seat, and leather wrapped steering wheel in SR5 - I may have to go to Limited for that. Both my Jetta and Sienna have leather steering wheels and it makes a great big difference in grip.
Solution to cell phone problem - velcro tape!!!
I don't either - I do believe that people should not post in a Tundra forum bashing all other Tundra owners. This is known as trolling.
"Additionally, I own a Toyota Sienna, and many on those forums complain about the ABS clunk. I've decided to believe the clunk is due to shifting brake pads and ABS self-test, depending on the situation. I don't notice it on my van, though."
Like you - I don't have any clunk due to the ABS on my Tundra. I do highly recommend the ABS - I drive in the rain a lot with the bed empty and the ABS makes for some perfectly smooth, short panic stops.
My younger brother is closing a deal on a Tundra today. He found a deal on a 2WD SR5 extended cab. It has the convenience and TRD packages, LSD, 3 in one stereo and captains chairs.
He is getting it for invoice. He also got 3 year 0% financing. That makes for a $711/mo. truck payment - OUCH!! At least it will be paid for in 3 years. He plans on keeping it for a long time (like me).
A better alternative is the locker differential from Eaton. http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/prod6.htm
I think that an LSD can be made to work (sort of) with one wheel off the ground by getting on both the brake and the accelerator. I've never run one, but that is what I've heard.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/showthread.php?
s=aa3c69f74873c0329bc13f6520f319f4&threadid=6007&highlight=powertrax
You will have to join on the last part of the link, Edmunds does not allow links longer than 115 characters.
http://www.tpub.com/basae/126.htm
He calls DOHCs "thingies". Does this tell you something?
My only other regret is weak leaf springs. If I put more than about 800 lbs in back, it sags and bounces over freeway expansion joints.
The brakes were a known problem on the 2000 Tundra only. It was a brand new truck back then and it had some toothing pain.
Read this thread. It will give you an idea about the new fix
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8878&perpage=15&pagenumber=3
Sounds like your dealership messed up the job.
BTW-Does your truck have ABS? Mine does not.
- Stewart
One way to solve this problem. Is to get a new pair of rotors and have them cryotreated. I have use crytreating on the rotors for my race car and they work great. No warpping or cracking under intense use.
I will do that on a set of Tundra rotors if mine get warpped.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=86238#post86238
How could you race cars and cryo parts etc. and not know what splines and yoke are???
Just curious.
http://www.geocities.com/n_dahi
To try to keep on topic, one of your comments on the "dry" oil filter on start up causing start up clatter on the Tundra made me raise an eye brow.
BTW, ak4x4, the remark about the type R sticker was definitely uncalled for.
Type-R.....kinda confusing as it has nothing to do with trucks....so I figured you was trying to be a wise [non-permissible content removed]. Excuse me if I'm mistaken.
I couldn't help but notice the time of your post and the really poor grammar and spelling.
I'm just concerned is all, you may have a problem.
You live in Alaska and a 4X4 is a MUST.
There is no way I can race you since you live far away. I do road course racing only. I do not drag race.
I will be shipping my M3 up here from Miami thi summer. It was going to go through L.A. then onward to Seattle, then on a boat up to the port. I could make an acception as I do have family in L.A. and San Diego. But I don't think an M3 and a 200SX is a fair match. Unless I can compete against you. I don't know if you are even in the same class as me(Racing wise). I use to race SCCA in my Miata and saw some 200sx's and alot of Acuras and VW's. You tell me. If I can't compete due to rules then I guess there is no point. But I can make MIA-L.A. in two days. Done it before. Just worried about I-10 though.