I think most people order them over the Internet. There are several sources for the OME via the Net. You can check Quadratec, but you might do better on price elsewhere.
Lifts are easy to install, so you should be able to do it yourself. The one hard part that I have heard about is the trac bar relocation bracket. I didn't have to worry about that with my little 2" Procomp lift.
I need a set of Bilsteins for my non-lifted 1999 Sahar.. The part numbers are BE5 2442 and BE5 2443. The best price I've found is $59.99 each at Autozone. Does anyone know of a place with a better price? Thanks.
Thanks, Dave: I have been checking as many racks as I can find. I really don't want to drill any holes in the jeep or remove any bolts I don't feel confident in doing so. I think I would rather go to a body shop and have them do the job for me should I go with the Congo or any similar rack. With winter coming on I'll have a few months to decide what to do. Spider
Thanks, Mac. I had checked most every 4X4 commercial web site and found the same thing. It's just kind of hard to believe that a shop down the street has the best price on something like Bilsteins.
Getting the torx bolts off was hard. Drilling the holes in the back was easy. Of course, that could have been because I'd already scratched up my new baby trying to get the torx bolts out.
Anyway, if you go with the Congo rack the ad may make you think you need the extra utility bars or whatever they call them. I recommend you don't buy them at first. Install the rack and then see if you still want them. I think the rack could hold a canoe without them but it might make it easier to get the boat on and off.
If you decide you do want them, let me know and I'll sell you my never used set for a very good price.
Greetings everyone. Just two short questions. I was talking to a guy who had an 03 Sport and he was running SUV Blizzaks that he just put on for the winter. He could not say enough good things about this tire on a SWB Jeep during the winter. He would still be talking if I did not make an excuse to leave, and that was two days ago. I remember having Blizzaks on a 1990 Lincoln Town Car. The boat of all boats. They were great on that car. Has anyone heard of running SUV Blizzaks on a Jeep during the winter? Just curious. #2. Whats the best windshield wiper folks have used that actually works well. My factory wipers have always been less than satisfactory. Anything from Quadratec that you have had good results with? Something that actually removes water from the windshield would be nice. Keats, you must have the latest high-tech wipers with heat,lights and sound-any advice? Go Easy, John
I have an '05 Unlimited with both tops and I have never had a drop of water in the cabin. I washed my Wrangler this weekend for the first time since this topic came up and I thought I would see if I could force water in around the doors. Sprayed a pressurized stream around the perimeter of both doors and along the top of the windshield. Not a drop in the cabin that I could find. My point is either there is something wrong with my Jeep or there is something wrong with yours. If it was engineered so poorly that it was destined to leak then it would seem that they all would leak. If you haven't already, I would suggest that you request in writing that the dealership state their position in writing on the problem. I suspect that they will be far less likely to tell you in writing that your Jeep should leak.
That's a better price than I found. I shopped online and pretty much every vendor had those shocks priced identically at $64.95. I had to wait a few days for delivery, but on the upside, I did not pay tax or shipping. Autozone will obviously charge you the sales tax, but as it is right down the street you won't have to wait for delivery.
*lol* Hey, KB2! I hate to disappoint, but I just buy whatever they have at the auto parts store. I honestly can't remember what kind Ihave on there now. I have heard good things about the PIAA ones they sell through Quadratec. A Lincoln TC? That doesn't seem nearly adventurous enough for one who has removed all the "bling" from his Jeep. When does the hard top go back on?
Wooohoooo....congrats on the New Jeep. BTW this is where i purchased my jeep wrangler. They had mine listed on Ebay last December...best price i could find anywhere. I live in Dallas, Texas area. I called em up, they sent the package info, mailed it back and they sent the Jeep FedEx, no joke, FedEx car carrier service. I had changed my mind and was going to fly up with the cheap tickets, like $150 round trip at the time from DFW but the weather turned bad up there and it was a 1,200 mile drive....or there bouts..anyway had my jeep for 11 months and 10K miles...Deep Beryl Green Unlimited Rubicon...luv it...wish i coulda got the dual top option the only thing...as i would like to put a hardtop on of winter and wind noise....
If you can do it yourself go for it you will save $$$ and the time it takes to take the vehicle pick it up etc. I do as much as i can so far so good........
Mark - I totally agree with you. And no, neither service dept. at either of the two dealerships I went to will put anything in writing, nor will they say anything "on record." (Surprise, surprise.)
I had a 2004 Sport with dual tops and never had a drop of water in it either, so I know firsthand that Wranglers are not "designed" to leak (and even if I had not owned a Wranglers before, I would have a pretty good idea that no car is "designed" to leak
The sales dept. mgr. called me on Saturday and said he didn't care what Chrysler said, that my Wrangler should not leak and that he would take care of everything. We'll see what happens and if he keeps his word.
I told him that this is the third car I have purchased from his dealership in less than two years (my 2004 Sport was totalled in an accident; I currently have both a 2004 Grand Cherokee Rocky Mountain Edition and a 2005 Wrangler Sport) and that "the buck should stop with him." This situation should not have to go the way of Lemon Law, as he, Chrysler and I know this car (and at least one other 2005 Wrangler on this dealership's particular new car lot) are defective and what is happening is not by design. Will keep you posted...
Very disappointing!!! I figured that you would have a pair of wipers that matched the color of the Jeep with all the bells and whistles-heated, lighted, plays tunes, etc. Will check out the PIAA's. The TC was a great car. Owned by an elderly woman, low milage, white, a sunroof the size of a football field, light blue leather interior. All the windows went all the way down. I put a major sound system in it and began to wear alot of Hawaiian shirts and Panama hats with white flip flops. Alot of fun. But Jeeps always call you back from insanity. Top was down today-sunny and 60 in Connecticut. Still holding out for the HT. Absolutely no "bling" on Rosie and no camera yet. Did look at a couple of ads per cameras. Thats a step. Go Easy, KB2
I now have put 2,000 miles on mine (including the 750 mile return from McGonigal) and have loved every mile.
Was in Dallas on business all last week. Missed the Rubicon.
Hard top is great. Hope you can eventually get one. Love the Deep Beryl Green.
I've now added XM (swap it between vehicles). Installed the car kit - thanks everyone for the tip on installing the antenna under the cover for the roll bar. Barely any degradation in reception as compared to the roof mount on my Sierra.
Additionally, I've added a car kit for my iQue GPS.
Now that I have all the "required" creature comforts for daily driving, I'll have to start working on the "real" mods!
Hi, I have a 97 Jeep wrangler which was running perfect till about about 4 weeks ago. It had been sitting in the driveway for about a month because I had been in the hospital and ill and unable to drive. Now it cranks but doesn't start. My husband is a pretty good mechanic and this is the first time I've ever seen something he can't fix. He says the starter cranks good but there is no fire on the harness wires plugging to coil. No fire going to the injectors. It does have voltage everywhere else. So far he has put on a new computer, a new Crank Position Sensor, distributor pickup, ignition switch, water sending unit, and ignition coil. We've had three different mechanics looking at it and no luck. The last person we talked to over the phone at a dealership said he thought it had lost it's memory and we should bring it in and put it on their machine to have it reprogrammed. My husband doesnt think that could happen by the jeep just sitting for a while without being started or by putting in a new computer. He said probably the guy just wanted us to bring it in and pay out a bunch of money for them to put it on the machine. A friend of ours took the computer out of his jeep and put it in ours to see if something was wrong with the one we got. It still didn't start but when he put it back in his own jeep it started right up with no problem. My husband said he thinks that if it didn't erase the memory on our friends jeep after he had it out it shouldn't have erased the memory in our jeep. Anyway we are at a loss and I love this jeep. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So far he has put on a new computer, a new Crank Position Sensor, distributor pickup, ignition switch, water sending unit, and ignition coil.
Good grief! I'm all for doing your own maintenance, but before replacing components like that at random it makes a lot more sense economically to pay for a diagnosis first.
Alternately, you could run through the logical troubleshooting processes detailed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
Anyhow, if you want me to take a wild guess (and I agree it's unlikely to be the PCM), try checking the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay which controls power to both the ignition and fuel injection circuits. (Switch it with the one in your friends Jeep before buying another new part! :shades: )
I checked with my husband and he said already checked the ASD. We don't have a Service Manual just a Haynes/Chilton manual. This thing has a lot of mechanics stumped. Any more suggestions? We appreciate any help.
As you've probably discovered, the Chilton/Haynes type manual is best reserved for basic maintenance information. You can access the genuine FSM through AllData for $25 for the first year and $15 a year thereafter. You can print out whatever you like, and it also provides full detailed access to the recalls and TSBs.
If your friend is willing, I'd be inclined to check the health of the components changed so far by substituting them, one at a time, with those on the other Jeep. I'd start with both CPS's, as they're the commonest cause of your symptoms and are the most easily damaged when fitting them.
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Do they really make Blizzaks that would fit the Wrangler? Every year I think about dedicated snow tires, and every year I skip it. This will be the first year I'll be running on the BFG's, (they are on both Wranglers now) so we'll see. In the past I was thinking more in terms of studded tires and have always thought that the disadvantages of them outweighed what little real use I would get out of them. But I could be talked into changing my mind for Blizzaks (or maybe not - wonder if it would be economical for me?).
I went back to the dealership yesterday and they ordered a replacement seal for the windshield. This may fix half of the problem, but the doors still leak. The passenger door started leaking again last night and the carpet was wet. The drivers side leaked again in the front corner and now also leaks at the top of the door. The top of the door leaked water onto the carpet on the side, the inside of the door was soaked and I had a little get onto the drivers seat. The floor on the drivers side is totally soaked. Also, I decide to pull the carpet up on the drivers side and I already have rust on the floorboard. I'll keep you informed. By the way...I have the SE, so I have soft half doors.
According to the person I spoke to they do. I have not had the time to research this but I will in the very near future. I have heard that Blizzak's out perform studded tires (Motor Trend article) but have a short life compared to other tires. But if you only use them in the winter, you should get some miles from them. Google SUV Blizzaks if you get a chance and I will do the same. Thats the name of the tire that the Sport owner gave me but I forgot to check the tire itself for the model name. Go Easy Mtngal-how are your gas prices now? $2.19 is the cheapest I have seen in Conn. Most stations are $2.29-39. Always interesting pricing ranges. John
Rob so sorry you are having trouble with water leaking into your Jeep too. Dealership replaced the seal around the windshield, realigned the doors (twice) at their bodyshop, and replaced the seals around both doors on mine, but no dice. Still leaking as bad as before. I have been throwing a tarp over the Sport when it rains to keep it dry inside. I am waiting for the Sales Mgr. of the dealership where I bought the Sport to get back to me about what to do next. This car cannot be fixed. That's the bottom line. How many times have you been back to the dealership to fix your car?
He tried all that too and he said everything checked out fine. The wires are in good condition, no corrosion. We just got it back from the mechanics, he gave up. My husband is thinking now maybe the wiring harness??
Could be...........that was what I was referring to when I posted this:
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Let's not talk about your gas prices - I was thinking how better it is with gas going at $2.47 at our local stations. We paid $2.38 in Vegas this past weekend, a nice change! I've heard that some places in LA are more in line with that then our "hill" prices (sigh).
My problem with the whole idea of snow tires is that I'd only use them for about 10 miles at the most, then the rest of the 75 miles to work would be on clear, above freezing roads. It doesn't seem to be cost effective to get them. As early as we leave in the mornings, the roads are often snow covered, but rarely icy. And most of the time they've been plowed and any ice has melted by the time we come home (there have been a couple of exceptions, but only about once a year or 2).
This will be their second attempt...they replaced both doors the first time. I love everything about this Jeep, but it's not acceptable to have it leak everytime it rains or I wash it.
$2.18 yeaterday at a Cumberland Farms station. One mile down the road and $2.38 at Mobil. Go figure. I guess you will find out how your new tires work this winter. I am in the same situation. I have new Toyo Open Country A/T's and am anxious to see how they do. I know, Japanese tires on a Jeep are not the norm but checked them out, got a good price, put the white lerrering on the inside and we will see what happens. Much better than the Wrangler GSA's. Running on the rims would probably be better than the GSA's. I forgot if I asked you or not. Are you near Idlewild or Hemit (sp)? Old stomping grounds for me in the 70's. Go Easy, John
Just bought a 2006 Wrangler X with full doors. Since this is the first jeep I have ever owned, I wanted to know what the best way is to remove the doors. And what do I do about the mirrors?
Also, I am in the Northern Virginia area. Does anyone know about any good trails around here?
Congratulations on the new Jeep! You are in for more fun than you can even imagine.
To remove the doors, remove the hinge nuts, being careful with whatever wrench you are using not to let it slip and scar your paint. I recommend a boxed end wrench, so that it won't slip off. The nuts are 13MM.
Don't forget to slip the limiting straps off of the pegs before trying to lift the doors off.
Be SURE to lift straight up on the doors as you remove them. You have exposed threads on the hinges by removing the nuts, and those threads can do some serious damage to your paint. Those doors are heavy, so make sure you have your hands positioned properly and are ready to take a heavy load.
You will need to pull the number four fuse to keep the dome/interior lights from staying on all the time.
Come on over to western KY and wheel with me sometime. Should only be about a twelve hour drive for you... we're practically neighbors!
Have fun with that Jeep! Hope you find some good Jeep buddies to wheel with.
Tom Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Here's a website I created that might be useful to you.
I recently fitted the DunlopRadial Rover RVXT to my Sahara. It's a four season tire but it still has the "snowflake-on-the-mountain" severe snow service rating. I've been very pleased so far. The BFG All-Terrain T/A KO is a similarly rated tire you may also want to consider. And I hate to rub it in, but this morning Regular was $2.02 at my local Marathon station.
My lifted XJ ran AT/KO's. They did have the "severe" snowflake as well. Fantastic in ice and snow, and the wear wasn't that bad. The KO is a softer compound, so it's only about a 30k to 40k mile tire. I was once blown sideways off an icy highway! (Cherokees are really lightweight, and when lifted they catch a lot of wind like a sail). But for traction to go and stop, the AT/KO was really good in anything BUT deep mud. I'll probably buy them again when I get all my lift funds together.
Oh, my contribution from flyover country - Filled up today at $1.97. We have nothing to do out here, but at least the fuel is pretty cheap.
I couldn't find any topic for this question, so here's a new one: I bought my new (and first) Wrangler in August and have put about 4K miles on it in over the past three months. I love it. Well, except for the shifting. I have an Wrangler X, 6 cyl. w/6spd manual. After the 2,500 miles the shift from 1st to 2nd became somewhat tough - no noise really, just some resistance making it difficult to pull the shifter into position. Now the shift from 2nd to 3rd needs an extra little push, and I hear a little rattling (mechanical) sound. Again, the sounds aren't loud or shrill, and the don't continue once I'm past the point of friction, but I am worried. Should I talk to the dealer? Am I doing something wrong? Please help a new member in the Jeep family...!
It could be one of a couple of things. Possibly incorrect or low oil in the transmission, or maybe a faulty gear or synchromesh ring. Alternatively, it could be a clutch problem, either hydraulic or mechanical, that's not allowing the clutch to disengage properly when you change gear.
This a warranty problem, so absolutely you should talk to the dealer! :shades:
It's always great to hear about new Jeeps - let us know how things go.
It seems to me that someone here had a problem with their Wrangler's tranny several years ago, but it isn't a common problem. Definitely go talk to your dealer.
John - I'm quite a bit west of Hemitt/Idlewild - there's 2 National Forests between (Angeles and San Bernardino). I'm near Frazier Park, which is in Los Padres.
$1.97 for a gallon of gas? That would be almost as good as winning the lottery!
I'm beginning to wonder if we'll ever get a winter - we haven't had much of a fall (well, the trees have changed colors). My hubby is planning on putting the top down and taking my nieces for a ride over Thanksgiving. And yes, right now I would love to trade the 80's at work the past couple of days for a few inches of snow!
Thanks. I do get over that way once in awhile. Don't be sad about just filling up and missing out on $2.09 gas. You will be ready for another fill up in no time. Wranglers just made a recent U.S. News and World Report article. The article was on "gas guzzlers". The report put us right in there with all the HUGE SUV's. Go Easy and drive as fast as you can so you can still get that $2.09 (: John
Hey, that's no fair including us with big SUVs. I'm the first to say that Wranglers are thirsty, but they aren't THAT much worse than any small/midsize SUV with a V6.
above is a link to the mirrors I bought, they are easy to put on / take off, just drop in the hinge and tighten down with a nut. they vibrate alittle at hwy speed, but not bad.
the first time you take the doors off,, its going to be feel like you are really working, just keep wiggling them back and forth as you lift up. it never hurts to have someone help.
Unfortunately, I beg to differ. My 1995 Rio Grande with the 4-banger gets worse gas mileage than my full size 1999 Chevy Tahoe w/5.7L V8. For the size of the vehicle, the wrangler really sucks the gas!!!
As of this morning, my Jeep is in the shop. I should have an answer by the afternoon, which is good because I'm leaving town for Thanksgiving and I will probably need the car if I'm going to get all the way to SC...Wish me luck
Comments
KC HighLites would be a good example, and they cost around $700-$800.
Is there anyone in the are that carry OME?
I think most people order them over the Internet. There are several sources for the OME via the Net. You can check Quadratec, but you might do better on price elsewhere.
Lifts are easy to install, so you should be able to do it yourself. The one hard part that I have heard about is the trac bar relocation bracket. I didn't have to worry about that with my little 2" Procomp lift.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The Quadratec price for the 2" TJ OME lift kit is $769.95, but you can get the same kit from dpgoffroad.com for $649.95.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Anyway, if you go with the Congo rack the ad may make you think you need the extra utility bars or whatever they call them. I recommend you don't buy them at first. Install the rack and then see if you still want them. I think the rack could hold a canoe without them but it might make it easier to get the boat on and off.
If you decide you do want them, let me know and I'll sell you my never used set for a very good price.
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
Mark
-Mike
I totally agree with you. And no, neither service dept. at either of the two dealerships I went to will put anything in writing, nor will they say anything "on record." (Surprise, surprise.)
I had a 2004 Sport with dual tops and never had a drop of water in it either, so I know firsthand that Wranglers are not "designed" to leak (and even if I had not owned a Wranglers before, I would have a pretty good idea that no car is "designed" to leak
The sales dept. mgr. called me on Saturday and said he didn't care what Chrysler said, that my Wrangler should not leak and that he would take care of everything. We'll see what happens and if he keeps his word.
I told him that this is the third car I have purchased from his dealership in less than two years (my 2004 Sport was totalled in an accident; I currently have both a 2004 Grand Cherokee Rocky Mountain Edition and a 2005 Wrangler Sport) and that "the buck should stop with him." This situation should not have to go the way of Lemon Law, as he, Chrysler and I know this car (and at least one other 2005 Wrangler on this dealership's particular new car lot) are defective and what is happening is not by design. Will keep you posted...
I now have put 2,000 miles on mine (including the 750 mile return from McGonigal) and have loved every mile.
Was in Dallas on business all last week. Missed the Rubicon.
Hard top is great. Hope you can eventually get one. Love the Deep Beryl Green.
I've now added XM (swap it between vehicles). Installed the car kit - thanks everyone for the tip on installing the antenna under the cover for the roll bar. Barely any degradation in reception as compared to the roof mount on my Sierra.
Additionally, I've added a car kit for my iQue GPS.
Now that I have all the "required" creature comforts for daily driving, I'll have to start working on the "real" mods!
Art...
Good grief! I'm all for doing your own maintenance, but before replacing components like that at random it makes a lot more sense economically to pay for a diagnosis first.
Alternately, you could run through the logical troubleshooting processes detailed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
Anyhow, if you want me to take a wild guess (and I agree it's unlikely to be the PCM), try checking the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay which controls power to both the ignition and fuel injection circuits. (Switch it with the one in your friends Jeep before buying another new part! :shades: )
If your friend is willing, I'd be inclined to check the health of the components changed so far by substituting them, one at a time, with those on the other Jeep. I'd start with both CPS's, as they're the commonest cause of your symptoms and are the most easily damaged when fitting them.
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Good luck!
-Rob
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Make sure to check the various grounds as well.
My problem with the whole idea of snow tires is that I'd only use them for about 10 miles at the most, then the rest of the 75 miles to work would be on clear, above freezing roads. It doesn't seem to be cost effective to get them. As early as we leave in the mornings, the roads are often snow covered, but rarely icy. And most of the time they've been plowed and any ice has melted by the time we come home (there have been a couple of exceptions, but only about once a year or 2).
-Rob
Also, I am in the Northern Virginia area. Does anyone know about any good trails around here?
thanks in advance.
To remove the doors, remove the hinge nuts, being careful with whatever wrench you are using not to let it slip and scar your paint. I recommend a boxed end wrench, so that it won't slip off. The nuts are 13MM.
Don't forget to slip the limiting straps off of the pegs before trying to lift the doors off.
Be SURE to lift straight up on the doors as you remove them. You have exposed threads on the hinges by removing the nuts, and those threads can do some serious damage to your paint. Those doors are heavy, so make sure you have your hands positioned properly and are ready to take a heavy load.
You will need to pull the number four fuse to keep the dome/interior lights from staying on all the time.
Come on over to western KY and wheel with me sometime. Should only be about a twelve hour drive for you... we're practically neighbors!
Have fun with that Jeep! Hope you find some good Jeep buddies to wheel with.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Here's a website I created that might be useful to you.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay49
EDIT: I fixed the link.
And I hate to rub it in, but this morning Regular was $2.02 at my local Marathon station.
I was once blown sideways off an icy highway! (Cherokees are really lightweight, and when lifted they catch a lot of wind like a sail). But for traction to go and stop, the AT/KO was really good in anything BUT deep mud. I'll probably buy them again when I get all my lift funds together.
Oh, my contribution from flyover country - Filled up today at $1.97. We have nothing to do out here, but at least the fuel is pretty cheap.
This a warranty problem, so absolutely you should talk to the dealer! :shades:
It seems to me that someone here had a problem with their Wrangler's tranny several years ago, but it isn't a common problem. Definitely go talk to your dealer.
John - I'm quite a bit west of Hemitt/Idlewild - there's 2 National Forests between (Angeles and San Bernardino). I'm near Frazier Park, which is in Los Padres.
$1.97 for a gallon of gas? That would be almost as good as winning the lottery!
I'm beginning to wonder if we'll ever get a winter - we haven't had much of a fall (well, the trees have changed colors). My hubby is planning on putting the top down and taking my nieces for a ride over Thanksgiving. And yes, right now I would love to trade the 80's at work the past couple of days for a few inches of snow!
It's on Redstone Hill drive, near ESPN.
figures, I filled up yesterday
-Dan
above is a link to the mirrors I bought, they are easy to put on / take off, just drop in the hinge and tighten down with a nut. they vibrate alittle at hwy speed, but not bad.
the first time you take the doors off,, its going to be feel like you are really working, just keep wiggling them back and forth as you lift up. it never hurts to have someone help.
:sick: