Are you in Houston? If so which dealer are you using? I have used Archer and River Oaks. I have had problems with both but I would use River Oaks over Archer. For some reason I guess some people have better luck than others with dealers.
Yes I am. So far I have been to Hamon Bay Area and Allen Samuals. Hamon was pretty good and I had a good recomendation from someone who bought a Liberty from them. Got to drive and X tonight and will try to drive a sport and rubi tomorrow. I cant decide if I need all the fetures that a rubicon has. I do want to go off roading but not sure that I would ever go the hard core that would require the te rubicon features.
I don't know anything about Harmon. I know my friend didn't care for the service at Allen Samuels for his durango and switched to the dodge dealer on 45 and Dixie Farm. They don't sell Jeeps though. I looked to buy from Allen Samuels but I didn't care for the salesman I talked with. I ended up buying from River Oaks. I have heard some good things about Ron Carter but never dealt with them. There is also Select Jeeps on hwy 3 and 518, if you are thinking about used. Those places seem high on prices but who knows how much they come down. They have a couple of obstacles behind their building that you may be able to test drive on. You don't really need to drive the different models. Only need to unless you are looking at different engines, transmission types or gear ratios. Of course it doesn't hurt either to do as much as you can. If the money isn't too much of a problem and you are going to do more than light wheeling, I would go with the rubicon. I would look to go with an unlimited too. They look good with a lift and some tires. There is more room and will ride better. Not really any good places to wheel close to here. Some mudding on egret bay between Nasa road one and 518. Some decent hill climbs on pelican island.
I really want to see the difference in the drive between the sport and rubi. My problem is that I am set on certain colors that are not popular and could cause me to have to order which then means I can't take advantage of the 0% financing for Feb.
Are you also considering waiting on the new 07? I'm just curious how people currently in the market feel about it.
Also, the new wheel package for the 65th anniversary looks really good. Wheels by Alcoa. They look alot like a MT Classic wheel, but probably altered for stock backspacing and such.
Also, the new wheel package for the 65th anniversary looks really good.
I don't think they're new. They look like the Alcoa ones used on other special editions, including the Lara Croft Tomb Raider model. They are nice wheels though!
I have to agree, though to be fair it applies to all other manufacturers and models. Everybody and everything concerned with the build and production is in a steep learning curve with a new model.
I just got back from the Chicago Auto Show. They had the new Wrangler (a red Rubicon). To me, it retains the Wrangler look very well. It has "softer" lines. I was surprised at the curved windshield. If it has been mentioned here, I missed it. They still say it can be folded down. Doors still come off also. Some of the trim items such as door handles and side mirrors actually give it a more rugged look.
Not at this time. I was really hoping to see one at the Houston Auto show but there wasn't one. Also, I would never buy one when it is the first year of a big re-design.
I got to drive a rubi tonight and I have a question. Both wranglers that I drove (different dealerships) smelled of burning oil when I was done. Has anyone else noticed this when they test drove?
It may have actually been the stuff they put on the engine and engine compartment when shipping. All of my new cars have had a burning smell for a few days. After that, no issue.
Some idiot dealers also spray extra undercoating on new cars; it invariably winds up on the exhaust. BTW Paul, I should have a copy of the Roundel with the 6er article in a week or so.
No flaming here! I find myself driving twice the mileage with this Wrangler than I did with the old 89, as well as using it much more in a car role. I miss just leaving the top in the yard and cruising around town, or going camping on a whim, but I'm in a different place in my life. I wasn't totally ready this time to buy a Grand or Liberty, but if you can have a vehicle that "warm and dry" for the bad commuting days that can still go wheeling, then why not? I'm certainly not of the opinion that we should be cold and deaf just for the sake of being cold and deaf. That would make me an MG owner, right?
When I was test driving Wranglers, they didn't have any Rubis so I test drove a Sahara. I ordered the Rubi thinking they would be very similar, but they really aren't. The gearing and disc brakes on the Rubi made a big difference. The 4:11 gears will really snap your head back.
The gearing and disc brakes on the Rubi made a big difference.
If the brakes on the Rubicon seemed better than on the Sahara I'd think that the Sahara brakes had a problem.
The rear brakes on either vehicle handle very little of the braking effort, so in terms of stopping power there's no difference in efficiency between drums and discs, and the front brakes on both models are discs.
The Boss drives ours during the week and I(we) drive it off road on the weekends. The move to the Wrangler was a bit of a sell on my part. She had become used to American and Japanese cars. However, the TJs we drove at the Jeep dealers all had the automatic and hardtop. Once she drove them, she was hooked. With the snowdrifts and ice out here (17 miles from town), The Boss used to leave for work with a bit of apprehension on her face. Now she has a big grin and can't wait to plow out through the gate. We have an '04 Rocky Mtn. Edition which rides on studded, winter treads this time of year.
I see I was confusing, I would never be able to tell the difference between brake performance. I was actually thinking of the "feel" of the brake pedal. It seem a little grabby on the Rubi, maybe it's the MTRs.
I would tend to agree that it could have been the MTR's. I have been generally pleased with mine, but they can be a bit unpredictable. For example, a month ago I was braking just a little firmly on a slight downhill grade (dry pavement) when it felt like the brakes "slipped". I got feedback from the pedal and the seat of my pants that felt like the pulsing of anti-locks, but it seemed like the brakes were trying to fail. Took me a few minutes to realize that I must have hit a bit of gravel or sand and the MTR's lost their bite on the pavement, then grabbed again. Not particularly alarming, just not an experience I have had before.
Yep, I know what you mean. Although, I must say, I have been very impressed with the MTRs performance overall. I really have not experienced any significant slippage in snow,ice or rain. I'm sure the limited slip in the back helps tremendously in take offs in those situation, but the MTRs seem to be a very good tire. My one complaint, I went offroad a couple of weeks ago and discovered how quickly the mud packs into them. They do not clean themselves very well. For this part of the country the BFG Mud Terrains would be better, offroad anyway.
Well, finally got the light working; I ordered the transfer case electric switch a few days ago (as per Mac's advice), and had the stealership install it for their $100/hour fee. Of course, that was the problem, and it now works perfectly. I would have tried to install it myself it had not been so darn cold here lately, or if I had access to a garage. Oh well, the total was $150, including the part. Quite a bit for a little light to flash, but at least I know everything is working fine. There was never a problem with the overall operation of 4wd. Thanks Mac and Tom for your help.
I've had the dreaded DW 2 times, and although many people say that a steering stabilizer only masks problems. Since I've swapped on a rancho stabilizer, I've not had DW.
Hello Everyone! I've been lurking on this forum for about 16 months, ever since I heard about the Wrangler Unlimited and then got hooked on the idea of owning one, or as it is termed, Wrangler Fever. I now own a Flame Red 2006 Unlimited with dual tops and automatic transmission. Most of my driving is city traffic, with a few freeway miles. I'm not planning any offroading, but then that could be another phase of 'the fever'. I bought the vehicle online, and the dealer 83 miles away trailered it to my house the following evening, at a reasonable extra cost. I was like a kid on Christmas Eve waiting for the truck to arrive. I have less than 100 miles at this point, but the Wrangler smile is widening every day.
I took photos today and will post them when I learn how to reduce their file size.
I have a question about the installation of the bodyside steps, which I purchased separately. I tried to feed the u-shaped bolts through the holes in the frame but could not get it in the first hole far enough to feed the other end out of the second hole. I'm wondering if threading the nut on one end and tapping it with a rubber mallet will help the bolt go the final 3/8 in.
Thanks to Tom, Mac, Mtngal and all the other forum folks for making this a fun place to be.
Congratulations! I know you are like a kid with a new toy right now. The good news is that a Jeep never gets boring, like a regular vehicle does.
If you have some photo editing software, you should be able to reduce the file size of your pics. If you have Windows XP, I think you should also have "Picture It! 7.0." Right click on the picture, click on "open with," and choose "Picture It!7.0." Then, when you are in "Picture It! 7.0," click on "file" then "save special." Choose "save as web ready picture," and then pick the size you want it to appear as. Just experiment a little.
Hurry up! Let's see some pics.
If you ever DO wheel that Jeep, be SURE and take those side steps off first, unless they are the type that serve as rock rails AND steps. Normal side steps get torn off about the first obstacle a guy encounters.
Ron, Congratulations on the new Unlimited! Regarding your question about the bolts for the bodyside steps...just be patient and try various bolt orientations until you find the one that works. I had the same problem...and the same temptation to use force. As I remember it, my attempt to force the bolt only resulted in a jammed bolt and panicked Jeep owner. Good luck!
Love having a new Wrangler owner out there - you will love it! The software that tidester mentioned is supposed to be excellent - lots of people on a photography board use it. I've never tried it - I've been using Photoshop for a long time.
I have the stock side steps on the Unlimited still. It doesn't get used off-road much and so it doesn't matter if I leave them on. I've noticed that the Sport gets more dings on the rocker panels now that it doesn't have them on it. I really should get nerf bars or something similar for it. I've been surprised that as a "vetically challenged" person I haven't missed the step.
Thanks to everyone for the tips on the photo sites and the sidesteps. We'll try and get the album set up later tonight. Meanwhile, I'll try fitting a u-bolt through the holes again and to remember the technique for the next 3. A bolt on the outside end is still a good idea so it doesn't drop into the frame rail!
Took the Jeep, a.k.a. 'Lucille', to work today. Fun drive.
Jeep Buds, you that have owned Wranglers for a while already know this, but for the benefit of you newbies, DO NOT TRUST YOUR E-BRAKE!
I'm not saying you shouldn't use it; just don't depend on it ALONE to hold your Jeep on a slope. The self adjusters on the rear drum brakes do not work due to a design flaw. The brake shoes get so far from the drum that the E-brake is rendered ineffective sometimes. Maybe they have fixed this on the later models, but if so, I have not heard about it.
On a wheelin' trip this past weekend that I was not part of, a Jeep Bud left his Jeep on a slight incline with the engine running, the tranny in neutral, and the E-brake engaged. This was at the top of a hill with many chutes going down, and as he was checking out the available routes that could be used to get down to the bottom of the hill, his Jeep went rolling past him and down the steep hill.
The Jeep picked its own route, and it must have been a good one. It never did roll over or flip, even though at times it appeared, according to eye witnesses, that all four wheels were off the ground due to the roughness of the terrain and the speed of the Jeep.
Amazingly, only a lower control arm bracket was broken. That was the only damage! Talk about getting a break!
When you are going to get out of your Jeep, kill the engine, leave the tranny in gear, and use your E-brake. Even though the E-brakes on Jeeps with rear drum brakes often don't work, it's still good practice to use them.
If you are on much of an incline, you should chock a wheel. It's a simple matter to carry a couple wheel chocks in your Jeep for such occasions. I made a couple chocks for Thelma Jane out of pieces of 6 x 6.
I have an offer on a Solar Yellow Rubi for about $27k. It has the dual tops which i am not really crazy about but no big deal. Thoughts on the pricing?
I have still not been in that situation where I was having the problem, i.e., long periods of slow crawling and some idleing, then shutting off the engine and restarting it a few minutes later. That's when I was getting the big time rough running engine.
I still doubt that the new plugs will make a difference as far as that problem goes. I needed to change them anyway, but I don't really think that my problems with the rough running after a restart had anything to do with the plugs.
I'll be sure and let ya know, Terry, once I get back out on the trails.
Mac or anyone...(this is the first Jeep I've owned) Why is there NOT a "Low Range" 4WD light on the Wrangler? Or do I have one and it not light up? Thanks.
I have noticed that I can drive FORWARD w/the E-Brake on but not in Reverse. This seems backwards in comparison to most vehicles. Mine is an '05 Wrangler Sport. :confuse:
Why is there NOT a "Low Range" 4WD light on the Wrangler?
The 4WD light is to indicate whether or not the drive to the front axle is actually engaged (the switch is on the transfer case, not the lever).
To have another light to separately indicate low range would be overkill. The positions aren't close to each other on the lever, and you couldn't enter low range accidently.
I have noticed that I can drive FORWARD w/the E-Brake on but not in Reverse.
Do you have rear discs? If so the e/brake should work equally in both directions. If you have rear drums it's weaker in reverse. Either way you should have your brakes checked. Also, I don't recommend continuing this practice as it's easy to damage a brake backplate or other component, or even a halfshaft.
I would negotiate from the invoice price. Usually you can get one for a few hundred over invoice. I haven't been keeping up with what people are getting for them lately. Usually someone on here is.
I have a video of a guy filming a toyota's e-brake fail. It runs right past him and then he runs after it filming it as it runs down the trail/road. Then he catches up to it and it is upside down on the bottom of a hill. I can email it but I have not way of hosting it.
As I just had my transfer case electric switch (the switch that makes the light come on)replaced, I can help here. The light on TJ's/Wranglers comes on when 4wd is activated, hi or low. There is only one light for wranglers/tj's. However, if you look closely, you'll notice another light on the dash, but it is empty (no bulb or anything), and requires nothing; it is used, I believe, for Cherokees that have full time AND part time 4wd. As wranglers have ONLY HAVE PART TIME 4wd, the light is irrelevant and nonexistant. Chrysler used the same instrument panel (cheaper) for both, so that's why you may see 2 4wd lights; however, only 1 should come on, regardless of 4 hi or low. So, you're Jeep seems to be working perfectly!
We had a problem with the logon server for a day or two but that was supposed to have been fixed. You can try the old standby of emptying your browser's cache. Let me know whether that works.
Comments
You don't really need to drive the different models. Only need to unless you are looking at different engines, transmission types or gear ratios. Of course it doesn't hurt either to do as much as you can.
If the money isn't too much of a problem and you are going to do more than light wheeling, I would go with the rubicon. I would look to go with an unlimited too. They look good with a lift and some tires. There is more room and will ride better. Not really any good places to wheel close to here. Some mudding on egret bay between Nasa road one and 518. Some decent hill climbs on pelican island.
Also, the new wheel package for the 65th anniversary looks really good. Wheels by Alcoa. They look alot like a MT Classic wheel, but probably altered for stock backspacing and such.
I don't think they're new. They look like the Alcoa ones used on other special editions, including the Lara Croft Tomb Raider model. They are nice wheels though!
I'm interested in what others think.
Terry
I got to drive a rubi tonight and I have a question. Both wranglers that I drove (different dealerships) smelled of burning oil when I was done. Has anyone else noticed this when they test drove?
-Paul
Too bad you couldn't join us for our weekend run at Turkey Bay!
-Paul
If the brakes on the Rubicon seemed better than on the Sahara I'd think that the Sahara brakes had a problem.
The rear brakes on either vehicle handle very little of the braking effort, so in terms of stopping power there's no difference in efficiency between drums and discs, and the front brakes on both models are discs.
Maybe this summer?
-Paul
Mark
Ryan
I've had the dreaded DW 2 times, and although many people say that a steering stabilizer only masks problems. Since I've swapped on a rancho stabilizer, I've not had DW.
jts
I took photos today and will post them when I learn how to reduce their file size.
I have a question about the installation of the bodyside steps, which I purchased separately. I tried to feed the u-shaped bolts through the holes in the frame but could not get it in the first hole far enough to feed the other end out of the second hole. I'm wondering if threading the nut on one end and tapping it with a rubber mallet will help the bolt go the final 3/8 in.
Thanks to Tom, Mac, Mtngal and all the other forum folks for making this a fun place to be.
Ron
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwww!!!!!!!
Congratulations! I know you are like a kid with a new toy right now. The good news is that a Jeep never gets boring, like a regular vehicle does.
If you have some photo editing software, you should be able to reduce the file size of your pics. If you have Windows XP, I think you should also have "Picture It! 7.0." Right click on the picture, click on "open with," and choose "Picture It!7.0." Then, when you are in "Picture It! 7.0," click on "file" then "save special." Choose "save as web ready picture," and then pick the size you want it to appear as. Just experiment a little.
Hurry up! Let's see some pics.
If you ever DO wheel that Jeep, be SURE and take those side steps off first, unless they are the type that serve as rock rails AND steps. Normal side steps get torn off about the first obstacle a guy encounters.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
tidester, host
Steve, Host
Congratulations on the new Unlimited! Regarding your question about the bolts for the bodyside steps...just be patient and try various bolt orientations until you find the one that works. I had the same problem...and the same temptation to use force. As I remember it, my attempt to force the bolt only resulted in a jammed bolt and panicked Jeep owner. Good luck!
Dennis
I have the stock side steps on the Unlimited still. It doesn't get used off-road much and so it doesn't matter if I leave them on. I've noticed that the Sport gets more dings on the rocker panels now that it doesn't have them on it. I really should get nerf bars or something similar for it. I've been surprised that as a "vetically challenged" person I haven't missed the step.
Took the Jeep, a.k.a. 'Lucille', to work today. Fun drive.
http://www.carspace.com/hillman3/.5996787e/
Ron
I'm not saying you shouldn't use it; just don't depend on it ALONE to hold your Jeep on a slope. The self adjusters on the rear drum brakes do not work due to a design flaw. The brake shoes get so far from the drum that the E-brake is rendered ineffective sometimes. Maybe they have fixed this on the later models, but if so, I have not heard about it.
On a wheelin' trip this past weekend that I was not part of, a Jeep Bud left his Jeep on a slight incline with the engine running, the tranny in neutral, and the E-brake engaged. This was at the top of a hill with many chutes going down, and as he was checking out the available routes that could be used to get down to the bottom of the hill, his Jeep went rolling past him and down the steep hill.
The Jeep picked its own route, and it must have been a good one. It never did roll over or flip, even though at times it appeared, according to eye witnesses, that all four wheels were off the ground due to the roughness of the terrain and the speed of the Jeep.
Amazingly, only a lower control arm bracket was broken. That was the only damage! Talk about getting a break!
When you are going to get out of your Jeep, kill the engine, leave the tranny in gear, and use your E-brake. Even though the E-brakes on Jeeps with rear drum brakes often don't work, it's still good practice to use them.
If you are on much of an incline, you should chock a wheel. It's a simple matter to carry a couple wheel chocks in your Jeep for such occasions. I made a couple chocks for Thelma Jane out of pieces of 6 x 6.
Better safe than sorry.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
:confuse:
If you posted, I can't find it, even with search. Did you get Thelma's rough running problem solved?. If so, what fixed it?
Terry
I have still not been in that situation where I was having the problem, i.e., long periods of slow crawling and some idleing, then shutting off the engine and restarting it a few minutes later. That's when I was getting the big time rough running engine.
I still doubt that the new plugs will make a difference as far as that problem goes. I needed to change them anyway, but I don't really think that my problems with the rough running after a restart had anything to do with the plugs.
I'll be sure and let ya know, Terry, once I get back out on the trails.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
jts
The 4WD light is to indicate whether or not the drive to the front axle is actually engaged (the switch is on the transfer case, not the lever).
To have another light to separately indicate low range would be overkill. The positions aren't close to each other on the lever, and you couldn't enter low range accidently.
Do you have rear discs? If so the e/brake should work equally in both directions. If you have rear drums it's weaker in reverse. Either way you should have your brakes checked. Also, I don't recommend continuing this practice as it's easy to damage a brake backplate or other component, or even a halfshaft.
Hope this helps!
Ryan
tidester, host
Terry