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Comments
You don't really need to drive the different models. Only need to unless you are looking at different engines, transmission types or gear ratios. Of course it doesn't hurt either to do as much as you can.
If the money isn't too much of a problem and you are going to do more than light wheeling, I would go with the rubicon. I would look to go with an unlimited too. They look good with a lift and some tires. There is more room and will ride better. Not really any good places to wheel close to here. Some mudding on egret bay between Nasa road one and 518. Some decent hill climbs on pelican island.
Also, the new wheel package for the 65th anniversary looks really good. Wheels by Alcoa. They look alot like a MT Classic wheel, but probably altered for stock backspacing and such.
I don't think they're new. They look like the Alcoa ones used on other special editions, including the Lara Croft Tomb Raider model. They are nice wheels though!
I'm interested in what others think.
Terry
I got to drive a rubi tonight and I have a question. Both wranglers that I drove (different dealerships) smelled of burning oil when I was done. Has anyone else noticed this when they test drove?
-Paul
Too bad you couldn't join us for our weekend run at Turkey Bay!
-Paul
If the brakes on the Rubicon seemed better than on the Sahara I'd think that the Sahara brakes had a problem.
The rear brakes on either vehicle handle very little of the braking effort, so in terms of stopping power there's no difference in efficiency between drums and discs, and the front brakes on both models are discs.
Maybe this summer?
-Paul
Mark
Ryan
I've had the dreaded DW 2 times, and although many people say that a steering stabilizer only masks problems. Since I've swapped on a rancho stabilizer, I've not had DW.
jts
I took photos today and will post them when I learn how to reduce their file size.
I have a question about the installation of the bodyside steps, which I purchased separately. I tried to feed the u-shaped bolts through the holes in the frame but could not get it in the first hole far enough to feed the other end out of the second hole. I'm wondering if threading the nut on one end and tapping it with a rubber mallet will help the bolt go the final 3/8 in.
Thanks to Tom, Mac, Mtngal and all the other forum folks for making this a fun place to be.
Ron
Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeehawwwwwwww!!!!!!!
Congratulations! I know you are like a kid with a new toy right now. The good news is that a Jeep never gets boring, like a regular vehicle does.
If you have some photo editing software, you should be able to reduce the file size of your pics. If you have Windows XP, I think you should also have "Picture It! 7.0." Right click on the picture, click on "open with," and choose "Picture It!7.0." Then, when you are in "Picture It! 7.0," click on "file" then "save special." Choose "save as web ready picture," and then pick the size you want it to appear as. Just experiment a little.
Hurry up! Let's see some pics.
If you ever DO wheel that Jeep, be SURE and take those side steps off first, unless they are the type that serve as rock rails AND steps. Normal side steps get torn off about the first obstacle a guy encounters.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
tidester, host
Steve, Host
Congratulations on the new Unlimited! Regarding your question about the bolts for the bodyside steps...just be patient and try various bolt orientations until you find the one that works. I had the same problem...and the same temptation to use force. As I remember it, my attempt to force the bolt only resulted in a jammed bolt and panicked Jeep owner. Good luck!
Dennis
I have the stock side steps on the Unlimited still. It doesn't get used off-road much and so it doesn't matter if I leave them on. I've noticed that the Sport gets more dings on the rocker panels now that it doesn't have them on it. I really should get nerf bars or something similar for it. I've been surprised that as a "vetically challenged" person I haven't missed the step.
Took the Jeep, a.k.a. 'Lucille', to work today. Fun drive.
http://www.carspace.com/hillman3/.5996787e/
Ron
I'm not saying you shouldn't use it; just don't depend on it ALONE to hold your Jeep on a slope. The self adjusters on the rear drum brakes do not work due to a design flaw. The brake shoes get so far from the drum that the E-brake is rendered ineffective sometimes. Maybe they have fixed this on the later models, but if so, I have not heard about it.
On a wheelin' trip this past weekend that I was not part of, a Jeep Bud left his Jeep on a slight incline with the engine running, the tranny in neutral, and the E-brake engaged. This was at the top of a hill with many chutes going down, and as he was checking out the available routes that could be used to get down to the bottom of the hill, his Jeep went rolling past him and down the steep hill.
The Jeep picked its own route, and it must have been a good one. It never did roll over or flip, even though at times it appeared, according to eye witnesses, that all four wheels were off the ground due to the roughness of the terrain and the speed of the Jeep.
Amazingly, only a lower control arm bracket was broken. That was the only damage! Talk about getting a break!
When you are going to get out of your Jeep, kill the engine, leave the tranny in gear, and use your E-brake. Even though the E-brakes on Jeeps with rear drum brakes often don't work, it's still good practice to use them.
If you are on much of an incline, you should chock a wheel. It's a simple matter to carry a couple wheel chocks in your Jeep for such occasions. I made a couple chocks for Thelma Jane out of pieces of 6 x 6.
Better safe than sorry.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
:confuse:
If you posted, I can't find it, even with search. Did you get Thelma's rough running problem solved?. If so, what fixed it?
Terry
I have still not been in that situation where I was having the problem, i.e., long periods of slow crawling and some idleing, then shutting off the engine and restarting it a few minutes later. That's when I was getting the big time rough running engine.
I still doubt that the new plugs will make a difference as far as that problem goes. I needed to change them anyway, but I don't really think that my problems with the rough running after a restart had anything to do with the plugs.
I'll be sure and let ya know, Terry, once I get back out on the trails.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
jts
The 4WD light is to indicate whether or not the drive to the front axle is actually engaged (the switch is on the transfer case, not the lever).
To have another light to separately indicate low range would be overkill. The positions aren't close to each other on the lever, and you couldn't enter low range accidently.
Do you have rear discs? If so the e/brake should work equally in both directions. If you have rear drums it's weaker in reverse. Either way you should have your brakes checked. Also, I don't recommend continuing this practice as it's easy to damage a brake backplate or other component, or even a halfshaft.
Hope this helps!
Ryan
tidester, host
Terry