Quadratec would be the best for the rubber mats. If you haven't gotten a catalog yet I highly sugest having them send you one. They have just about anything you would need. What kind of tires are you going to put on yours? Just curious..has anyone heard anything abut the Parnelli Jones Dirt Grip tires?
Herculiner - a DIY setup involving rolling it on. Must prep metal before hand Rhino-lining - more durable - requires professional installation Line-X - more durable - requires professional installation
I have a '95 Wrangler and I am looking to swap in a small block Chevy V8. The six cylinder runs fine, but I have a highly modified 350 from my dad's dirt track car that he isn't racing anymore. I have a few questions. I can get the adaptors and motor mounts from Advanced Adaptors, but what about a wiring harness? Also, I am mainly interested in top end speed on the highway so should I regear the differentials? My last question is what kind of top speed do you think I can get with this 400hp V8? My friend has a GT Mustang and I really want to top 120 mph. Any advise would be appreciated because I am a 16 year old girl and will be doing the swap with only the help of a couple of guy friends. My dad thinks I'm nuts and has refused to help!
Huh. That one works a little different than mine, where the windows just fold into pouches. Alot more expensive too. Shame about Rock Gear. He sure sounded busy when I ordered mine a couple years back.
I want to take Nicole to the beach SO BAD, but when i see pics like this I worry that I'd be tempted to get too close to the water and wind up like this guy.
i've seen soft doors on several catalog sites for $380. i've been looking for used ones to save a few $$. i checked our salvage yard, but they wanted $500 for theirs.
i've been watching ebay and seen some that say they would fit any model wrangler, did the door size & style stay the same through all the changes?
does anyone know any good salvage yards? or other places I might be able to find a used set?
All the soft doors for TJs will work for any TJ top (hard, factory soft, aftermarket soft). YJ have different soft doors for factory soft tops and aftermarket Bestop soft tops. YJ doors will not fit a TJ due to different windshield rake angles and latches.
I picked up my Bestop soft doors on ebay for like $200 last summer. Much more reasonable considering I don't use them year round.
I bought a floating minivan, aka pontoon boat, last week so I got some real world towing experience with my Unlimited Rubi yesterday. The trailered weight is 3,400# plus fuel which puts me at just over the 3,500# tow rating for the Unlimited. I have a tandem trailer with surge brakes on both axles, but it is still a load and I would not want to tow it with the Wrangler for hundreds of miles. Overall a positive experience; adequate power to accelerate and maintain a 55 MPH highway speed and the positive traction rear diff performed admirably in a wet boat ramp. Those squirrels had to really hump it to get the boat moving up the ramp incline in 2WD high, but it not bad enough to go to 4WD low. Since I am on the ragged edge of the rated towing capacity and do not intend to add a transmission cooler I will limit my towing to about a 100 mile round trip and use the SUV for anything longer. But, I was pleased with the Wrangler's capability and the kids loved the Jeep ride as much as the boat ride!
Since I am on the ragged edge of the rated towing capacity and do not intend to add a transmission cooler I will limit my towing to about a 100 mile round trip.......
You won't find me giving you a hard time about the weight, especially as you have surge brakes on both axles. Your biggest problem will probably be crosswinds and semis passing you.
However, you need a transmission cooler. With a load like that you can push the transmission fluid temperature over 250°F in less than a quarter mile of stop and go traffic!
I always recommend fitting an inline filter ($30), temp gauge ($50), and stacked plate cooler ($70), all at the same time. Such a small cost compared to a transmission rebuild. Also, try 4Low on the ramp next time, your tranny will thank you for it.
Sound advice, Mac. Any specific recommendations on transmission cooler source and/or type? Local big box auto parts store? Installation tips, e.g. cooler location, where to tap lines? Thanks as always!!
I've had good luck with pricing and service from Summit. Mount the cooler behind the grille and in front of the existing coolers. Here's a couple previous replies to the same question. Do a search on 'transmission cooler' for more.
The tranny cooler and filter are very important, and the filter adapter will allow you to easily fit a transmission temperature gauge. Be sure to fit it on the flow line to the cooler rather than the return. Also, fit the aftermarket cooler after the factory one. Additionally, you should use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil in the diffs, as recommended by Jeep.
The biggest enemies of an auto tranny are heat and contamination. Overheating causes the fluid to break down and deposit varnish which clogs up the internal passages. The clutch plates burn and start to break up, which sends particles of friction material throughout the tranny and its cooling system.
Fitting a cooler is excellent inexpensive insurance. I like to fit an external filter as well. A cheap cooler kit can be bought for around $30-$40. However, if you spend $60 more, you can have an effective high quality supplemental cooling and filtering system. Rather good value when you consider the price of a transmission overhaul!
I like, and personally use, the following cooler and filter. The B&M cooler costs $60 and the filter kit $30. The spin-on filter is the same as the large one that can be fitted to the 4.0, or the standard 4.0 filter can be used. Either way, it simplifies the number of filters you need to keep on the shelf.
You just need to add two more of the brass barbed fittings (to fit in the cooler), another couple of feet of transmission hose and clamps, and a couple of quarts of fluid. The filter housing has a tapping for a temp gauge sensor if you want to fit one. It's all simple to fit and shouldn't take more than an easy two or three hours.
Finally, yes you can get by without one, especially if you can guarantee that you'll never be in a situation that overheats your transmission. (Getting caught in slow moving traffic while climbing a long incline can be enough to start things off, never mind what towing a trailer can do.)
I just bought a brand new '05 Sport model. The sticker was $24,893 and I got it for a sale price of $18,450 at Huntington Beach (Calif.) Chrysler Jeep. Do you think I got a good deal? It has all the options also, including automatic tranny, air, leather steering wheel, P225's with Ecco wheels, CD player. My real question is whether or not Mopar or anyone else sells a soft top organizer that keeps it neat in the back when you take it down and not flapping all over the place. And, is there something to put the zip out windows in when you unzip them to keep them from scratching and getting dusty. Also, what do you guys use to wash your soft top windows that does not scratch them up?
All replies are welcome. Thanks. I'm like a kid in a candy store with my new Jeep.
Just bought a new 06 Unlimited back in January and was looking for some new mods to upgrade my offroad potential after getting stuck for the first time. I was looking for bigger tire package and maybe a suspension upgrade, but I can't find much out there for the 06 models. Just looking for any thoughts on what might be the best package and can 05 and 04 Unlimited kits work for the new ones.
Bought a used 04 unlimited with 33x12.5 tires. Is there an easy way to tell if it has either a body or suspension lift? Does not appear to have either and no tire rub either.
I don't mean to be rude, but getting stuck for the first time isn't an indication that you should mod your Jeep, just that you need to improve your technique.
You'd be amazed at where a standard Wrangler will go in the right hands. Wait until your skills improve before you upgrade and you'll get way more out of your lift and tires than you will now.
I'd guess that you probably have a lift of some sort, though 33's will fit for 'mall' use with adjustment to the steering stops.
To check, drive to a dealer's with a tape measure in your pocket. Check and compare the height of the fenders from the ground. A body lift uses spacers between the body and the frame, a true suspension lift uses new springs, while a 'budget boost' uses spacers at the top of the springs. Comparing yours to a standard Wrangler will make any differences obvious.
Dude I've been off roading for 10 years. The reason I got stuck was because I was fishing at a spill-way in southern louisiana. I got stuck in some deep stuff because of the lack of clearance and basic Unlimited tires, not because of my skills and by the way, that wasn't even my question.
You'd be amazed at where a standard Wrangler will go in the right hands. Wait until your skills improve before you upgrade and you'll get way more out of your lift and tires than you will now.
I see the same thing when I instruct at track events; guys want to spend thousands of dollars "upgrading" their EVO/M3/911/WRX/whatever, when they can't use 50% of the capability of their stock vehicle. I tell them that the first part they should upgrade is the nut behind the wheel...
There really isn't a soft top organizer per se. Once you've folded it down, it is VERY easy to straighten up. When I have mine on and folded down, it doesn't bounce around and the wind doesn't catch it at all (and I keep my rear seat out).
There is a window 'roll' you can purchase aftermarket that will help you roll up your windows and store them when the top is down. I think it is called the Clover Patch
As for keeping the windows clean, I just use CLEAN soap and water (I usually wash them first before ANYTHING else). I try them with a dry cloth made for drying soft windows so they don't scratch. I use 303 Protectant and Cleaner (available at RV and marine stores) to deep clean the soft top.
Dude I've been off roading for 10 years........I got stuck in some deep stuff because of the lack of clearance and basic Unlimited tires, not because of my skills and by the way, that wasn't even my question.
I guess I touched a nerve, but if you re-read my post you'll see it wasn't intended to diss you, dude.
However, off-roading skills include not getting into deep stuff in a vehicle that has a lack of clearance for the conditions, especially when fitted with a non-mud tire.
Your ten years of experience should give you an idea of which tire works best for the conditions you wheel in. You might need 37" Swampers and a 6" Fabtech lift, or possibly 31" MT/R's and a 2" Budget Boost. It really depends on what you want to get through. There are many suitable lifts out there as your suspension is pretty much the same as that of all TJs dating back to '97. The biggest difference between the TJ and your Unlimited is the wheelbase. One of many places you can check out some choices is 4WD.com.
If you follow Mac's advise, as most do, be sure and factor in the difference in height due to the 33" tires. When compared to a non-Rubicon with 30" tires you should see a 1.5" difference based on the 33's alone. This would vary a bit based on actual tire height, air pressure, etc. Fender to wheel centerline might be a better comparison. You could also just stick your read under the fender and look at the springs. Lifts are usually easy to spot because the new components are typically powder coated in some color other than factory black. Or, you could get it up to about 80 mph and hit a bump. If your steering shakes uncontrollably you probably have a lift :P
Did you lease or buy? I do not know the current rules, but back in 92 a CA car dealer could legally add to the lease an amount up to 10% of the price without out question and the buyer may never know, unless he is really savvy which most of us are not (I think they called it a closed lease). The buyer would think he/she was getting a good deal just to have the dealer make it up on the finance side. I saw this happen to VP from a large bank who bought a Grand Cherokee (in December of 92). It’s the reason I only lasted 3 months at selling jeeps. I am sure most dealers are ethical, but who knows if the one you are working with is.
I know this minister who recently bought a new F350 King Ranch (his wife has a well paying job) form a dealer in my area. He called Ford and was pre-approved for a loan. When he went to the dealer he told the finance person he was pre-approved. The finance person came back and quoted him an interest rate much higher then Ford approved. The Minister protested and the Finance Manager told him Ford had not pre-approved him and that he only qualified for higher interest rate and there was nothing he could do about it. The Minister protest and called the Finance Manager a liar in front of the dealership’s sales staff (who apparently do not like the Fin. Manager) and turned to leave the dealership when he was stopped and referred to the dealerships General Manager. When he spoke to the General Manager the deal was reviewed and amazingly enough the Minister’s pre-approved status was confirmed. The Minister was told by people at the dealership that this is not the first time this has happened, but most people pay the higher rate in spite of them being told they were pre-approved at a lower rate. The Minister was encouraged to file a complaint with DC by a number of the dealership’s employees, including the General Manager.
Apparently the Finance Manager operates separately from the rest of the dealership and the dealership could not do anything about but if enough customers filed a complaint DC could. It’s hard for me to believe that a department in a dealership can run its own program. But I believe the Minister when he says he was told this.
WOW On a different subject it is hailing right now. Who said winter was over in So. Cal.
Sounds like you got a good deal. 6k under the sticker is nothing to complain about. I just got my 06 Jeep a couple weeks ago. We had our first nice weekend here last week and I was able to take off the top and doors. By reading some posts, I found that if you remove fuse #4 from behind the glove box your interior light will not stay on with the doors off. I was excited to find that out so I figured I would pass it along. Have fun.
Hey on the subject of Longhorns. I bought my tj about 3 years ago. It's a 97 Longhorn, I know it started out in Tuscon AZ. and ended up here in Central Il. Just wondered if anybody knows why they came out with this model? If youve got any info sure would appreciate it. Thanks!! :P
Want to find out how many Rubicons were made in 2004...especially in kaiki color, as I just aquired one...no one seems to know how to find this out that I have talked to...even tried jeep customer service...thanks
I have a 98 tj with a 4.0 5 spd. it has been down for about the last year. I went out to fix the probs today(completed) and the darn thing will not start. It cranks over but is not getting any fire. I have replaced the coil, wires, cap, and rotor,and all fuses are ok. Oh yeah and the battery also. I am pretty sure i am getting fuel I can smell it with cranking but no pressure in the rail. I am at my wits end with this thing. Is there an ecsm that can go bad? could it be the computer itself, or is it something simple I am missing? I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
Hello everyone, I just bought an impact orange 2006 Wrangler X with the stock black fender flares. I've noticed several Wranglers out there with fender flares that match the vehicle's body paint. Does anyone know where I can get impact orange fender flares? Appreciate any help! Thanks a lot.
Those are either Jeep Saharas or other "special edition" Jeeps, i.e. Rocky Mountain, Freedom that come from the factory with the painted flares...so to answer your question, there is no where to acquire these flares. You could have your flares painted I suppose. I prefer the black flares. They look more rugged.
I'm in Minonk. About an hour from Peoria in the other direction. I bought a '95 Wrangler about 5 months ago. They just towed it to the shop about an hour ago. It won't start. Power but won't turn over at all. And they actually gave me a Ford Taurus as a loaner. UGH!!!!! I had an '81 Cherokee a few years ago but it literally fell apart. I finally got the chance to get another one. I can't wait for the weather to change and get the top and doors off. Well....Take Care!!!
I just bought a locking gas cap...gas prices being what they are etc. No instructions for removing the leather strap from the old gas cap. I am sure its easy..IF you know how. Any suggestions? TNKS
P.S. And how to put it on the new locking gas cap.
If a code reader can't establish a link with the computer, in this case the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), it's likely that the PCM or the wiring to it is faulty.
Mine is an 06 Wrangler X. There is a little strap that lets the gas cap dangle when filling up. I want to take it off and put it on the new locking gas cap.
On earlier models the locking cap was smaller in diameter than the non-locking original, so the plastic tether couldn't be transferred. In any case, the construction of the caps is different and wouldn't allow the addition of a tether to the locking version. A careful examination of your two caps should provide the answer if it's possible.
I just leave my keys in the cap and place it beside the drivers seat when I fill up.........that way I can't forget it!
Yes..I was out there earlier and noted the tether has no place to go on the new cap because that is where the key goes. I still need to know how to "safely" remove the tether from the side of the gas cap area. I think it might just pop out but I don't want to break it. There must be a simple way. If I want to use it again there would have to be a way to take it off and maintain its integrity.
The end of the tether that goes through the filler neck surround should be rather like this: ------>
When being assembled the pointed end goes easily through the hole in the surround, then the two fingers spread out to prevent it from being pulled out. To remove it, reach behind the surround and squeeze the fingers together as you pull it back through the hole.
Comments
Herculiner
- a DIY setup involving rolling it on. Must prep metal before hand
Rhino-lining
- more durable - requires professional installation
Line-X
- more durable - requires professional installation
-Paul
Available at www.northridge.com and www.4x4rockshop.com.
-Paul
I have a '95 Wrangler and I am looking to swap in a small block Chevy V8. The six cylinder runs fine, but I have a highly modified 350 from my dad's dirt track car that he isn't racing anymore. I have a few questions. I can get the adaptors and motor mounts from Advanced Adaptors, but what about a wiring harness? Also, I am mainly interested in top end speed on the highway so should I regear the differentials? My last question is what kind of top speed do you think I can get with this 400hp V8? My friend has a GT Mustang and I really want to top 120 mph. Any advise would be appreciated because I am a 16 year old girl and will be doing the swap with only the help of a couple of guy friends. My dad thinks I'm nuts and has refused to help!
That would be an April Fools post, right? :shades:
You have got to be kidding.
jeff
i've been watching ebay and seen some that say they would fit any model wrangler, did the door size & style stay the same through all the changes?
does anyone know any good salvage yards? or other places I might be able to find a used set?
jeff
I picked up my Bestop soft doors on ebay for like $200 last summer. Much more reasonable considering I don't use them year round.
And hey, it's a diesel.
Steve, Host
Mark
Mark
You won't find me giving you a hard time about the weight, especially as you have surge brakes on both axles. Your biggest problem will probably be crosswinds and semis passing you.
However, you need a transmission cooler. With a load like that you can push the transmission fluid temperature over 250°F in less than a quarter mile of stop and go traffic!
I always recommend fitting an inline filter ($30), temp gauge ($50), and stacked plate cooler ($70), all at the same time. Such a small cost compared to a transmission rebuild. Also, try 4Low on the ramp next time, your tranny will thank you for it.
Mark
The tranny cooler and filter are very important, and the filter adapter will allow you to easily fit a transmission temperature gauge. Be sure to fit it on the flow line to the cooler rather than the return. Also, fit the aftermarket cooler after the factory one. Additionally, you should use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil in the diffs, as recommended by Jeep.
The biggest enemies of an auto tranny are heat and contamination. Overheating causes the fluid to break down and deposit varnish which clogs up the internal passages. The clutch plates burn and start to break up, which sends particles of friction material throughout the tranny and its cooling system.
Fitting a cooler is excellent inexpensive insurance. I like to fit an external filter as well. A cheap cooler kit can be bought for around $30-$40. However, if you spend $60 more, you can have an effective high quality supplemental cooling and filtering system. Rather good value when you consider the price of a transmission overhaul!
I like, and personally use, the following cooler and filter. The B&M cooler costs $60 and the filter kit $30. The spin-on filter is the same as the large one that can be fitted to the 4.0, or the standard 4.0 filter can be used. Either way, it simplifies the number of filters you need to keep on the shelf.
Cooler
Filter
You just need to add two more of the brass barbed fittings (to fit in the cooler), another couple of feet of transmission hose and clamps, and a couple of quarts of fluid. The filter housing has a tapping for a temp gauge sensor if you want to fit one. It's all simple to fit and shouldn't take more than an easy two or three hours.
Finally, yes you can get by without one, especially if you can guarantee that you'll never be in a situation that overheats your transmission. (Getting caught in slow moving traffic while climbing a long incline can be enough to start things off, never mind what towing a trailer can do.)
I fell for it.
Terry
All replies are welcome. Thanks. I'm like a kid in a candy store with my new Jeep.
You'd be amazed at where a standard Wrangler will go in the right hands. Wait until your skills improve before you upgrade and you'll get way more out of your lift and tires than you will now.
To check, drive to a dealer's with a tape measure in your pocket. Check and compare the height of the fenders from the ground. A body lift uses spacers between the body and the frame, a true suspension lift uses new springs, while a 'budget boost' uses spacers at the top of the springs. Comparing yours to a standard Wrangler will make any differences obvious.
I see the same thing when I instruct at track events; guys want to spend thousands of dollars "upgrading" their EVO/M3/911/WRX/whatever, when they can't use 50% of the capability of their stock vehicle. I tell them that the first part they should upgrade is the nut behind the wheel...
There really isn't a soft top organizer per se. Once you've folded it down, it is VERY easy to straighten up. When I have mine on and folded down, it doesn't bounce around and the wind doesn't catch it at all (and I keep my rear seat out).
There is a window 'roll' you can purchase aftermarket that will help you roll up your windows and store them when the top is down. I think it is called the Clover Patch
http://www.quadratec.com/products/91109_100_07.htm
As for keeping the windows clean, I just use CLEAN soap and water (I usually wash them first before ANYTHING else). I try them with a dry cloth made for drying soft windows so they don't scratch. I use 303 Protectant and Cleaner (available at RV and marine stores) to deep clean the soft top.
Enjoy your new Jeep!
-Paul
I guess I touched a nerve, but if you re-read my post you'll see it wasn't intended to diss you, dude.
However, off-roading skills include not getting into deep stuff in a vehicle that has a lack of clearance for the conditions, especially when fitted with a non-mud tire.
Your ten years of experience should give you an idea of which tire works best for the conditions you wheel in. You might need 37" Swampers and a 6" Fabtech lift, or possibly 31" MT/R's and a 2" Budget Boost. It really depends on what you want to get through. There are many suitable lifts out there as your suspension is pretty much the same as that of all TJs dating back to '97. The biggest difference between the TJ and your Unlimited is the wheelbase. One of many places you can check out some choices is 4WD.com.
Hope this helps, dude. :shades:
I can't imagine the response if I'd put it like that! :P
If you follow Mac's advise, as most do, be sure and factor in the difference in height due to the 33" tires. When compared to a non-Rubicon with 30" tires you should see a 1.5" difference based on the 33's alone. This would vary a bit based on actual tire height, air pressure, etc. Fender to wheel centerline might be a better comparison. You could also just stick your read under the fender and look at the springs. Lifts are usually easy to spot because the new components are typically powder coated in some color other than factory black. Or, you could get it up to about 80 mph and hit a bump. If your steering shakes uncontrollably you probably have a lift :P
I know this minister who recently bought a new F350 King Ranch (his wife has a well paying job) form a dealer in my area. He called Ford and was pre-approved for a loan. When he went to the dealer he told the finance person he was pre-approved. The finance person came back and quoted him an interest rate much higher then Ford approved. The Minister protested and the Finance Manager told him Ford had not pre-approved him and that he only qualified for higher interest rate and there was nothing he could do about it. The Minister protest and called the Finance Manager a liar in front of the dealership’s sales staff (who apparently do not like the Fin. Manager) and turned to leave the dealership when he was stopped and referred to the dealerships General Manager. When he spoke to the General Manager the deal was reviewed and amazingly enough the Minister’s pre-approved status was confirmed. The Minister was told by people at the dealership that this is not the first time this has happened, but most people pay the higher rate in spite of them being told they were pre-approved at a lower rate. The Minister was encouraged to file a complaint with DC by a number of the dealership’s employees, including the General Manager.
Apparently the Finance Manager operates separately from the rest of the dealership and the dealership could not do anything about but if enough customers filed a complaint DC could. It’s hard for me to believe that a department in a dealership can run its own program. But I believe the Minister when he says he was told this.
WOW On a different subject it is hailing right now. Who said winter was over in So. Cal.
Actually, hail is mostly a summer phenomenon so I guess we can stick with the "winter is over" theory! :shades:
See Winter Weather
tidester, host
I had my doors off on sunday when it was 70 :shades:
Summer can't get here fast enough!
-Dan
I hope summer lasts longer than that! You should have used the time available to do this:
http://www.carspace.com/tidester/.59a2823c
tidester, host
"the puppyfang"
I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
TNKS
P.S. And how to put it on the new locking gas cap.
I know they have leather straps to hold an axe and a shovel, but I didn't know about one on the gas cap.
Perhaps details of your Jeep would help? :shades:
I just leave my keys in the cap and place it beside the drivers seat when I fill up.........that way I can't forget it!
When being assembled the pointed end goes easily through the hole in the surround, then the two fingers spread out to prevent it from being pulled out. To remove it, reach behind the surround and squeeze the fingers together as you pull it back through the hole.