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Herculiner
- a DIY setup involving rolling it on. Must prep metal before hand
Rhino-lining
- more durable - requires professional installation
Line-X
- more durable - requires professional installation
-Paul
Available at www.northridge.com and www.4x4rockshop.com.
-Paul
I have a '95 Wrangler and I am looking to swap in a small block Chevy V8. The six cylinder runs fine, but I have a highly modified 350 from my dad's dirt track car that he isn't racing anymore. I have a few questions. I can get the adaptors and motor mounts from Advanced Adaptors, but what about a wiring harness? Also, I am mainly interested in top end speed on the highway so should I regear the differentials? My last question is what kind of top speed do you think I can get with this 400hp V8? My friend has a GT Mustang and I really want to top 120 mph. Any advise would be appreciated because I am a 16 year old girl and will be doing the swap with only the help of a couple of guy friends. My dad thinks I'm nuts and has refused to help!
That would be an April Fools post, right? :shades:
You have got to be kidding.
jeff
i've been watching ebay and seen some that say they would fit any model wrangler, did the door size & style stay the same through all the changes?
does anyone know any good salvage yards? or other places I might be able to find a used set?
jeff
I picked up my Bestop soft doors on ebay for like $200 last summer. Much more reasonable considering I don't use them year round.
And hey, it's a diesel.
Steve, Host
Mark
Mark
You won't find me giving you a hard time about the weight, especially as you have surge brakes on both axles. Your biggest problem will probably be crosswinds and semis passing you.
However, you need a transmission cooler. With a load like that you can push the transmission fluid temperature over 250°F in less than a quarter mile of stop and go traffic!
I always recommend fitting an inline filter ($30), temp gauge ($50), and stacked plate cooler ($70), all at the same time. Such a small cost compared to a transmission rebuild. Also, try 4Low on the ramp next time, your tranny will thank you for it.
Mark
The tranny cooler and filter are very important, and the filter adapter will allow you to easily fit a transmission temperature gauge. Be sure to fit it on the flow line to the cooler rather than the return. Also, fit the aftermarket cooler after the factory one. Additionally, you should use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil in the diffs, as recommended by Jeep.
The biggest enemies of an auto tranny are heat and contamination. Overheating causes the fluid to break down and deposit varnish which clogs up the internal passages. The clutch plates burn and start to break up, which sends particles of friction material throughout the tranny and its cooling system.
Fitting a cooler is excellent inexpensive insurance. I like to fit an external filter as well. A cheap cooler kit can be bought for around $30-$40. However, if you spend $60 more, you can have an effective high quality supplemental cooling and filtering system. Rather good value when you consider the price of a transmission overhaul!
I like, and personally use, the following cooler and filter. The B&M cooler costs $60 and the filter kit $30. The spin-on filter is the same as the large one that can be fitted to the 4.0, or the standard 4.0 filter can be used. Either way, it simplifies the number of filters you need to keep on the shelf.
Cooler
Filter
You just need to add two more of the brass barbed fittings (to fit in the cooler), another couple of feet of transmission hose and clamps, and a couple of quarts of fluid. The filter housing has a tapping for a temp gauge sensor if you want to fit one. It's all simple to fit and shouldn't take more than an easy two or three hours.
Finally, yes you can get by without one, especially if you can guarantee that you'll never be in a situation that overheats your transmission. (Getting caught in slow moving traffic while climbing a long incline can be enough to start things off, never mind what towing a trailer can do.)
I fell for it.
Terry
All replies are welcome. Thanks. I'm like a kid in a candy store with my new Jeep.
You'd be amazed at where a standard Wrangler will go in the right hands. Wait until your skills improve before you upgrade and you'll get way more out of your lift and tires than you will now.
To check, drive to a dealer's with a tape measure in your pocket. Check and compare the height of the fenders from the ground. A body lift uses spacers between the body and the frame, a true suspension lift uses new springs, while a 'budget boost' uses spacers at the top of the springs. Comparing yours to a standard Wrangler will make any differences obvious.
I see the same thing when I instruct at track events; guys want to spend thousands of dollars "upgrading" their EVO/M3/911/WRX/whatever, when they can't use 50% of the capability of their stock vehicle. I tell them that the first part they should upgrade is the nut behind the wheel...
There really isn't a soft top organizer per se. Once you've folded it down, it is VERY easy to straighten up. When I have mine on and folded down, it doesn't bounce around and the wind doesn't catch it at all (and I keep my rear seat out).
There is a window 'roll' you can purchase aftermarket that will help you roll up your windows and store them when the top is down. I think it is called the Clover Patch
http://www.quadratec.com/products/91109_100_07.htm
As for keeping the windows clean, I just use CLEAN soap and water (I usually wash them first before ANYTHING else). I try them with a dry cloth made for drying soft windows so they don't scratch. I use 303 Protectant and Cleaner (available at RV and marine stores) to deep clean the soft top.
Enjoy your new Jeep!
-Paul
I guess I touched a nerve, but if you re-read my post you'll see it wasn't intended to diss you, dude.
However, off-roading skills include not getting into deep stuff in a vehicle that has a lack of clearance for the conditions, especially when fitted with a non-mud tire.
Your ten years of experience should give you an idea of which tire works best for the conditions you wheel in. You might need 37" Swampers and a 6" Fabtech lift, or possibly 31" MT/R's and a 2" Budget Boost. It really depends on what you want to get through. There are many suitable lifts out there as your suspension is pretty much the same as that of all TJs dating back to '97. The biggest difference between the TJ and your Unlimited is the wheelbase. One of many places you can check out some choices is 4WD.com.
Hope this helps, dude. :shades:
I can't imagine the response if I'd put it like that! :P
If you follow Mac's advise, as most do, be sure and factor in the difference in height due to the 33" tires. When compared to a non-Rubicon with 30" tires you should see a 1.5" difference based on the 33's alone. This would vary a bit based on actual tire height, air pressure, etc. Fender to wheel centerline might be a better comparison. You could also just stick your read under the fender and look at the springs. Lifts are usually easy to spot because the new components are typically powder coated in some color other than factory black. Or, you could get it up to about 80 mph and hit a bump. If your steering shakes uncontrollably you probably have a lift :P
I know this minister who recently bought a new F350 King Ranch (his wife has a well paying job) form a dealer in my area. He called Ford and was pre-approved for a loan. When he went to the dealer he told the finance person he was pre-approved. The finance person came back and quoted him an interest rate much higher then Ford approved. The Minister protested and the Finance Manager told him Ford had not pre-approved him and that he only qualified for higher interest rate and there was nothing he could do about it. The Minister protest and called the Finance Manager a liar in front of the dealership’s sales staff (who apparently do not like the Fin. Manager) and turned to leave the dealership when he was stopped and referred to the dealerships General Manager. When he spoke to the General Manager the deal was reviewed and amazingly enough the Minister’s pre-approved status was confirmed. The Minister was told by people at the dealership that this is not the first time this has happened, but most people pay the higher rate in spite of them being told they were pre-approved at a lower rate. The Minister was encouraged to file a complaint with DC by a number of the dealership’s employees, including the General Manager.
Apparently the Finance Manager operates separately from the rest of the dealership and the dealership could not do anything about but if enough customers filed a complaint DC could. It’s hard for me to believe that a department in a dealership can run its own program. But I believe the Minister when he says he was told this.
WOW On a different subject it is hailing right now. Who said winter was over in So. Cal.
Actually, hail is mostly a summer phenomenon so I guess we can stick with the "winter is over" theory! :shades:
See Winter Weather
tidester, host
I had my doors off on sunday when it was 70 :shades:
Summer can't get here fast enough!
-Dan
I hope summer lasts longer than that! You should have used the time available to do this:
http://www.carspace.com/tidester/.59a2823c
tidester, host
"the puppyfang"
I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
TNKS
P.S. And how to put it on the new locking gas cap.
I know they have leather straps to hold an axe and a shovel, but I didn't know about one on the gas cap.
Perhaps details of your Jeep would help? :shades:
I just leave my keys in the cap and place it beside the drivers seat when I fill up.........that way I can't forget it!
When being assembled the pointed end goes easily through the hole in the surround, then the two fingers spread out to prevent it from being pulled out. To remove it, reach behind the surround and squeeze the fingers together as you pull it back through the hole.