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Jeep Wrangler



  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735



    I think this version lends itself very well to being a good platform for a Gladiator. :)

  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    interesting.....I like it. When I first heard "4 door Wrangler" I winced. I think they got it right though.

    Your right Paul, you can definitely see how the Gladiator could be made from this.

  • I have a 87' wrangler with a 4.2 liter 258. I believe the transmission is made by peugoet. Will the 2.5 L4 engine from that year fit the tranny? Thanks Brian
  • pblythepblythe Posts: 1
    My 2006 TJ Sahara overheats whenever it is going uphill. I've replaced the thermostat, had it power flushed twice, and added a higher capacity radiator. Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Only uphill? If it is a 2006, I'd take it to the dealer and have them figure it out. Perhaps the coolant isn't cycling - water pump maybe? I dunno.


  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I believe the transmissions are different between the 4 and 6 cylinder engines. That said, I don't know if the mating points are the same. Mac would probably know though. :)

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Why have you added a higher capacity radiator? The standard radiator is more than adequate and shouldn't need flushing on a new vehicle.

    You possibly have a head gasket problem which appears under load, i.e. when going uphill. Let your dealer take care of it under warranty.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have a 87' wrangler with a 4.2 liter 258. I believe the transmission is made by peugoet. Will the 2.5 L4 engine from that year fit the tranny?

    I'm not sure, but probably not. The Peugeot BA10/5 was only used on the 4.2 from '87 until early '89, and I'm not aware of a bellhousing to suit the 2.5.

    Why not do things a little differently. First, the Peugeot transmission is possibly the worst ever fitted to a Jeep. Next, the 2.5 isn't the greatest of engines in a Wrangler, and the fuel consumption is about the same as the 4.0. The 2.5 will also struggle with the gearing of your axles.

    Just a thought, but why not consider dropping in a later 4.0?
  • randyacerandyace Posts: 96
    Hello, everyone.

    Thought I'd share something I did to my dash. I wanted to do something to offset the stark gray interior, adding some contrast and a bit of customizing. Instead of getting a resin dash kit with pieces I don't want (at a big price), I used some leftover marine vinyl to make a few dash "inserts".

    The pics show my first prototypes. After making a template and cutting them, I sprayed the back with spray-on adhesive purchased at WalMart. I simply pressed them in place and held in place for a minute or two.

    The adhesive is semi-permanent, so they're removable if you get tired of them, or just want to change the design. I pulled one of the two pieces you see on the shift boot plate off 3 days after I put it on, and it removed easily. The slight adhesive residue left on the boot plate came off easily with a damp rag.

    I know this isn't for everyone, but for someone like me who likes a bit of contrast to an all-gray (or whatever) interior, this is a very inexpensive..and fun...way to "change things up a bit".

    Just thought I'd share!

    Randy!photoLoc=.59a2c690&skipNext=0&s- ubmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    Here's a closeup of the interior. I'll bet everyone on this forum will notice very quickly which lever is missing... g=1&idi=4
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I have an 06 Wrangler X. After a short drive I can hear a hissing sound coming from the front of the radiator. It it not overheating and may be normal...any suggestions or comments from folks that have heard the same sound?
  • wpowellwpowell Posts: 125
    Does this happen only after a short drive? It is likely coolant flowing from the radiator into the overflow jug. The coolant heats up after the engine is shut down which will often cause it to overflow. Then, as it cools down it is pulled back into the radiator. This is all very normal stuff. You aren't losing any coolant, right?
  • yjohnyjohn Posts: 32
    I'm looking for some advice on fixing rust out on my YJ. My main problem areas are on the sides, just below the JEEP stamp below the doors. I hear that many have this problem. Anyway, I was wondering what the best approach would be. I have seen that replacement panels are available from JC Whitney, but I wonder if it would just be better to weld in patches myself. If anyone has experience with this, I would really like some advice.

  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    I wonder if that implies it'll have an AWD option or use a push-button to engage 4-Hi/4-Low rather than a transfer case lever?
  • salemnysalemny Posts: 2
    I have a 89 jeep with leaf springs and track bar. I've replaced the shocks but I'm getting a clunck when the jeep shifts weight from side to side.Like when pulling into a
    driveway or parking lot. I can't firgure out what it is!!
    Going down the road it drives fine. something is a miss though.. PLEASE HELP........... :sick:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Most likely, I'd bet that those interior pics are of a 2WD version. The 4 door version is available with 2WD only as an option (blasphemy IMO). 4WD will be available.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It really depends on your welding and bodywork skills. There's nothing with putting in a patch as long as the surrounding metal is sound. Make sure you do a stepped flange, rather than a butt or overlap joint. A small MIG welder is perfectly adequate for this kind of repair.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    That sounds plausible. There appears to be a "dent" or hole where you would expect the transfer case shifter to be. That may mean that the shifter would be there on a 4wd model.

    A 2wd Wrangler. Weird. Not since the DJ...
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Here's the Edmunds blurb and pics:

    Jeep Unveils Stretched 2007 Wrangler (Inside Line)

    $21,000 USD is the price prediction.

    Steve, Host
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    2wd Wrangler :confuse: makes no sense to me.

  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    "The Chrysler Group brand says the Wrangler Unlimited will feature hundreds of different top, door and windshield combinations..."


  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    You can accomplish that with as few as 7 or 8 options. :)

    tidester, host
  • nolid5nolid5 Posts: 148
    Do I also see that they call it a 5 passenger Unlimited? Isn't the current version of the Unlimited only a 4 passenger?
    Very interesting.
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    The dial that changes heat/vent/air has stopped working on my '99 TJ(or so I thought). Heat/air is only blowing through the defrost slot, no matter what setting it's on.

    I bought a new control panel, installed it, and to my dismay the problem is still there. Does this ring a bell with anybody. Any ideas what might be going on?

  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    I think I found the answer. A TSB from '99 about the door vacuum actuator.

    Heater & A/C - Will Not Switch To Panel Mode

    NUMBER: 24-12-99

    GROUP: Heating & A/C

    DATE: July 2, 1999

    The Heating and A/C System will not switch to the instrument panel outlet mode.

    This bulletin involves installing a panel/demist door vacuum actuator.


    1999 (TJ) Wrangler
    1999 (XJ) Cherokee


    The heating and NC system may not switch to the panel mode. This could be caused by a leaking diaphragm in the panel/demist door vacuum actuator. This symptom could be intermittent and system could switch back and forth from the panel mode while driving.


    Apply vacuum to the panel/demist door actuator using a hand actuated vacuum pump containing a vacuum gauge. The actuator should hold vacuum indefinitely. If the vacuum bleeds off, the diaphragm is leaking. Perform the Repair Procedure.


    1 04864995 Panel/demist Door Vacuum Actuator



    1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

    2. Remove the knee blocker from the instrument panel.

    3. Unplug the vacuum line from the actuator (See Figure 1).

    4. Insert a trim stick or other suitable wide flat-bladed tool into the actuator mount latch hole to release the latch and gently pry the actuator outwards to remove it from the mount (See Figure 2).

    5. Rotate and tilt the actuator to as required to disengage the actuator link from the door lever. Remove the actuator.

    6. Install the new actuator, p/n 04864995, by installing the link onto the door lever.

    7. Install the actuator onto the mount.

    8. Connect the vacuum line.

    9. Install the knee blocker.

    10. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • hundreds?!?

    Yeeehawww! :shades:
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187

    A bunch more pics at, including a Rubi with half doors and hard top versions. Pretty sharp.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Nice. I like the half doors. I wonder if the uppers are cloth or if they just use sliders now... :)

    Image hosting by Photobucket

  • nolid5nolid5 Posts: 148
    I agree, Paul, I think the half doors look really good.

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    Rather than pay $125 or whatever to quadtratec I made my own. Used it today. Nicked the wood from a construction site down the street (aka the 2x4 relay) and the berber carpet from a neighbor who was replacing hers. $10 were for the 4 wheels on the bottom from Home Depot, 2 fixed and 2 swivel. Works like a charm. Behold:




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