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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout
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Comments
-David
Ray T. :shades:
As far as the issue of over oiling goes, I have never had that problem. The filter comes to you oiled and ready to go. When you do clean and oil it (50K later) you can look up the exact amount of oil you will need on the K&N web site. The oil is pink, so its easy to see how much your spraying on a nice clean white filter.
Also, you can save about 100 bucks if you buy your K&N kit on ebay.
I love it!
I am considering cutting off the exhaust right in front of the muffler and installing glass packs, continuing the true dual exhaust and terminating with a bend behind each rear wheel. I love the sound of glass packs, but I don't want to you to hear me from two blocks away. I just want a nice low throaty sound with out the excessive noise.
What do you guys think? My local shop ( I know the guy and he is really good) can do this for about 200 bucks, and it will be a lot fuller flowing then stock. What do you guys think?
Steve
Ray T. :shades:
2005 Silverado 1500 5.3 liter, auto trans.
I plan on keeping this truck for about 8-10 years, and figure that if I can get 3-5 mpg more than now, it would pay for itself. I figure that cost to be about $1,500 installed. I am currently only getting about 12.5 mpg in the city, while a friend with an 03 duramax (with this same programmer, but w/o the intake or exhaust) is getting 16.5mpg. Very few of the sites selling the programmers will state ANY mpg gains, and the ones that do are VERY vague. I know that my 0-60 will increase.
Will my mpg increase?
Is this safe for my engine? (thats why I'm considering the exhaust)
Also....a question for m_Boise...were you talking about the Tornado throttle body spacer? If so, did you add it, and did it make a difference in your mpg?
Stone G
Here is a list of what I have dont to it so far:
Leveling Kit (raised front up 2.5 inches to level it out)
Chrome Westin Nerf Bars
Vent Visors/Hood Bug Deflector/Sunroof Wind Deflector
BF Goodrich 185/75/16 All Terrain TA ko Tires
(trimmed front valence just a little to keep tires from rubbing)
Line-x Spray in Bedliner
Tint Windows
Future projects:
Installing a "Denali" style grill
Cam-Locker Low Profile Deep Tool Box with Rails
Back Up Sensors (like the Fords have)
Larger Air Intake with Heat Shield
4" turbo back exhaust
Edge Juice with Attitude Programmer
and maybe a brush guard/push bar
Damn all this keeping up with the Jones' (aka my neighbor and his F250)!!!
I bought the Poweraid TBS from Airaid. I have yet to install it. Been doing a lot of research, and am still up in the air about it--but I'm leaning towards selling it as the technology doesn't seem to benefit the Vortec engine that is in my truck which uses sequential port fuel injection. The same could be said most engines built in the 90's and later. I have an 05 Silverado Crew Cab, 5.3L V8 Z71 with 2700 miles. I have added a cat-back dual exhaust from flowmaster and the sound is great as well as going from 17.5 to 18.8 mpg overall with 60/40 highway/city driving. I just installed a K&N Air Charger intake system. No results on mileage yet. But it seems to have quieted the Flowmaster just slightly, I've noticed that when I step on it--the V8 really pushes through the higher rpms faster (above 2700) and the transmission seems to allow the rpms to go higher before shifting. While installing the air charger I noticed the stock system was really engineered quite well. The stock intake box was mounted in a way that it was drawing air from outside the engine compartment through a couple of rather large holes that opened into a space above the front passenger wheel well. The stock intake tube was just as large, if not larger that the K&N. It had a strange "reservoir" that dropped below the direct air flow and definately would increase total volume...but seems like it would slow the air down and cause some increase in heat--but I'm no engineer or mechanic. So my results on the K&N are still out and the TBS will most likely gather dust unless I get somebody to buy it from me. My next possible purchase would be a programmer...but maybe I should just enjoy the new truck and stop throwing money at upgrades and accessories.
If it really increases 2 MPG why doesn't the manufacturer just put it on at the factory? - GM, Ford, Toyota, Nissan & Dodge would KILL to get a 2 MPG bump in their full size trucks.
First - I have has several VERY loud cars in my life - so I do understand -
But if you really think about it - it's like putting baseball cards in the spokes of your bike - sounds real cool - but does it make you go any faster?
If I only new that the 1951Bowman Mickey Mantel rookie card in my spokes would someday be worth $800.
As for the exhaust--it sounds more like a "truck" now, and the sound was 90% of the reason I added the fart can. The change in mileage that I saw with the aftermarket exhaust was real...maybe it was from the environment, gas quality, or the fact that I added it before reaching 2000 miles--maybe the engine wasn't really broken in and performing. Who knows? Sounds better and the dual look (no real function) gives it some uniqueness.
Manufacturers adding mpg boosters? They are all in cahoots with oil companies anyway---otherwise we would be driving around for free using our own garbage for fuel by now These vehicles are built to be non-offensive and meet government regulations while still costing too much and sucking enough gas to keep the fat cats fat.
Anyway--enough rambing...just want to make it clear that I'm not here to promote any kind of product or aftermarket stuff, just wanted to hear from others' experiences and let others know of mine.
I just looked and the wheelbase is that same looooong freakin' 143.5". But the truck is almost 10" shorter. Whoopty do. The thing I hated about mine was trying manuever with that wheelbase. And that's one thing I love about my Av. 130" wheelbase!
So in the 1/2 ton lineup you can now get:
standard cab, short box
standard cab, long box
extended cab, super short box (from crew cab)
extended cab, short box
extended cab, long box
crew cab, super short box
I think the idea behind the addition is that some people want something with more space than you get in a regular cab, but don't need as much space as the crew cab. They also want a usable bed, but don't really need anything too large (sort of the average homeowner that just wants to be able to tote the mulch home without dirtying up the car trunk). This combination improves over the other options by meeting both requirements with the shortest possible wheelbase / turning circle in the lineup. It will provide the extra convenience of the extended cab truck without the "boat"-like manners in tighter spaces and should still give most of the other benefits of a 1/2 ton over the compact / mid-size trucks. Things like overall payload weight and towing capacity.
edit: clarified a sentence (I hope)
PS- I seriously doubt GM is going to go to the trouble of yet another completely unique bed. To keep the wheelbase the same as the current trucks, the frame rails would be cut down and the bed itself would end up with the wheel openings located that extra 10" further back as I mention above. Keeping the bed the same allows them to use the exact same bed that goes on the crew, combined with the same cab that all usual EC trucks have, on a shorter frame. Wheel opening on either part would stay the same, but the wheelbase would shrink ~10". Probably going to check out the Chevy sight to see what it shows..
Wheelbases
Extended Cab Short Box / Extended Cab Regular Box / Extended Cab Long Box
134.0 / 143.5 / 157.5
Length
Extended Cab Short Box / Extended Cab Regular Box / Extended Cab Long Box
220.2 / 230.2 / 249.0
So, basically the wheelbase shrunk 9.5" and the length shrunk exactly 10".
I am into my second month of my 2005 GMC ownership experience after 27 years of Toyotas we'll just have to see. Thus far the new truck Crew cab SLT 4x4 Z71 Package has been very satisfying. Took it from Oak Ridge TN to Tupelo MS and it averaged 19.9 MPG with only 1900 miles at origin. It has the 3.42 gears in the rear so that probably explains it. No sonner had I bought it than I aquired a 30" Award tarvel trailer. According to the specs and solid load estimation I am well with in the limits for towing despite the higher ratio in the rear. I got 12.3 towing from Oak Ridge to Atlanta and back a little less. Anyone know about towing in OD with the towing selector on. Manual says go for it but history says 3rd gear only may be the way to go. I think the computer may know better?
kcram - Pickups Host
I have been speaking to a couple of aftermarket specialty shops around here, and they all have been telling me to wait until my d-max has at least 10k miles on it before I add the programmer. I am however definatly replacing the 3" exhaust with the 4", as everyone says my mpg's will go up. Now, with the air getting out faster, wouldn't increasing the air in, result in better mpg, more horse power, or ???
Since my truck only has 2,500 miles on it, it looks like I should take the programmer money and spend it on 16"x 10" wheels and replace the stock 16" x 6.5" pizza cutters.
That was my logic too, so I installed the K&N Air Charger which replaces the entire stock air intake system. I have only had it for a week or so now, and haven't gotten new mpg readings. Do some research, ask around, there are plenty of differing opinions out there. Some say the increased air flow = increased dirt into the engine. This makes sense---but I don't think that they let in more dirt/volume of air---the filtration is equivalent. I didn't see an obvious performance change in my day to day driving after installing it (you may see different changes with the diesel). Check out the previous post I left to see what I noticed. I'm going to give it a chance for a couple thousand miles and decide after that. As for the wider tires, that will look great but is not helping your quest for better mpg. The programmer is something I've also been told to wait on. So, I'm done with upgrades for several thousand miles...just enjoying the ride.
Any one know what size I need to buy ?.
Yesterday I had something else happen, a few hrs after making a trip to the hardware store I went to pull it in the garage and when I turned the key I had a horrible screech noise. Similar noise as if you tried to start the truck when it was already running. HMMM I am now leaning towards the alternator? Should an alternator be hot to the touch after strating a truck and pulling it in a garage??? Cant say I ever really noticed
Any ideas???
Also Truck is 5 yrs old and has 55K miles
Thanks!
Other than the starter, it could also be your a/c compressor that screeches.....
The fuel filter was changed last yr (Aug) appx 7-8K miles ago
Is battery OK? check the electrolite with a tester. Low readout can indicate inadequate charge from alternator which would make sense if its on the fritz.Did you remake the battery connections? try that if you haven't.
Keep us posted on results,,,,,,,good luck. Sucks when there are intermittent electrical problems. :sick:
You and I have about the same mileage on our 5 yr. old trucks. GM has me thinking of new with this employee discount deal going on but can't locate an 05 equipped with my needs. They have extended this "deal" to 06 models but only till end of September according to their website. Don't think I could order one in time either at this point.
Ray T. :shades:
As far as buying a new one I have been tempted. One reason I am not is I just bought a house a few months ago. Why have a truck payment when I dont now. And also I have the spy shot of the new 07 silverado on my background and everytime I look at it it reminds me of when the 99s came out. Porbably wait until 08 now
Steve in Michigan
Wow, what a coincidence!!
Yesterday, for the first time since I bought my truck new almost 5 years ago, my truck also had a little trouble starting and idling after I had driven it and it had been setting for about 30 minutes. It would turn over just fine, but would idle at about 400 RPMs then die. Took about 2 tries then it has run fine ever since.
I did pull my boat almost 300 miles over the weekend. And on Monday on my way to work, when I wasn't pulling the boat, the truck seemed to have a lot of giddy up in it, like the engine was set in "I'm still pulling a boat mode so let's up the power requirements". Maybe after that short drive and parking it, its internal computer realized I wasn't pulling a boat anymore and was trying to re-adjusted itself back to normal?
-David
Also thought i would post a pic I took today.
I bought a used Airaid cheap, including the tube. Put just the tube on first and it got louder...and more responsive. Especially in the 50-70 range. Then I put the box and filter on and wow - talk about noisey. At a certain RPM there's more interior resonance than any muffler I've had ever caused. It's off now pending a possible trade and not sure what I'll put back on. Probably just the tube.
Thanks
Ryan
--------------------
http://www.corsaperf.com/flashdenali.htm
I had the airaid for the rado and the FIPK for the Denali. Both put out way too much noise for me. As the airaid setup was initially for the box replacement, dumping the tube and placing the stock tube back was no problem. For the Denali, it's back to stock as the intake noise was a lot higher than the rado. Funny thing cause the airaid tube looks way more restrictive than the FIPK.