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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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I'll take a guess (as That's all I'm good for these days ..;-) "Normally" the vacuum lines are under Vacuum - so theoretically - anything in the lines should be sucked to the engine - but when the engine is off - the vacuum goes away and "vapors" may migrate up the lines. GM had recall many years ago (76' ?) - and they had to put a check valve in the vacuum line for the Power Breaks booster vacuum line - the power break membrane was getting damaged ...
So ... It's possible that leak back vapors from the vacuum system is affecting the seals and the switch body - or perhaps even the hoses and vacuum motors ??
Mine is a 02 (Made on fall of 01) - and it's 4 .5 years old now and has 42K + miles... no issues with my vents... Of course it could be a switch issues (material too senstitive to the engine vapors ... and needs a material change)...
What's your Year Vehicle ???
Canufixit
I think this is good good news for you .. Rotted out Rubber holes or Motor Diaphragms seldom fix themselves. So.. it "might" just be a sticking part. Be sure to cycle the selector through each range (leaving it at each position for 5 minutes or so). - it my just be sticky and work it's way out if exercised ...
re: Mw / my tires - Tires appear to be fine .. (Toyo A/T's). Apparently I got two out of round tires (Very Visably out - but now replaced) along with a poor install Job (Bad tire gauge = low tire pressure, 1 Leaky new valve stem damaged at install and over inflation (they "thought" it should have been 36psi Cold w/ max at 44 - tire is actually 36 Max and I set at them at 32 PSI per my gut and the door sticker...)
Ride is muche better and no shakes/shimmies ..
But it should not have to take multiple trips to Town Fare to fix - all of these should have been caught on first installation - if they used adaquate checks - in my opinion ...
Canufixit
Fuses are a good place to start - as you have multiple issues here - that, hopefully, - have one common issue to fix.
Check you library for the body and chassis manual for the vehicle - many larger libraries may still order them. Full schematics and locations of fuses, relays, etc + debug charts!! (I have a hard copy for my 2002)
Alternatively try alldata.com. A Vehicle specific site for about $25 USD for the first vehicle /per year. Most of the diagrams are there and you can print them ... A Trial area is there so you can see what you would get. Most of the manuals schematics are online as well as recalls, TSBs etc ...
As for the cause - again I'd look for 1 common issue here .
- Bad Ground to the panel area.
- connection issue - Cable/ribbon cable loose at the instruments or any where from there to the computer ..
- Cut cable on dash steel edges, etc ..
AND - most important - was anyone in the dash recently ?? (Radio fix/change, polking around under the dasd , etc. etc ...)
Be sure to look for ALL the fuses in the Body/Shop manuals - often they may have others (or isolation relays) hidded under the dash - in the glove box etc ...
Let us know how you make out !!!
Canufixit
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
And please forgive my rant ... How can American Companies expect to sell vehicles in todays markets when you need A half day (or More) to get at many of the components (many that never last much longer than the short warranty they provide!). This issue along with the inability to change heater cores (without complete dash board removal) , fuel tank pumps (without taking many of the truck beds off), etc - has got to have driven away many many of the past "USA Made Only" car buyers ... I for one will never get another GM - and perhaps any American designed Vehicle for that matter... The terrible Ball Joint issues are bad enough ... but the day my dash needs to get pulled - I trade or scrap it and bring my money elsewhere ..(Rant Off)
Well The dealer on my Chevy said the dash had to be taken out to get to the TCCM, Bull [non-permissible content removed],i found it behind the passenger side kick panel, he just wanst to charg 4 hours of labor for a short job, I do not need 4wheel drive very ofen so i just did waht i was informed to do, Just disconnect it for a few minutes it worked fine for one day. The 4 wheel drive will shift if you put it into neutral and hit the button.
Also the tail gate cables rusted apart. They recalled all the larger trucks but they said the s-10s do not hold the cargo weight as the larger trucks. Its a design flaw, they dipped the STEEL cables in a plastic coating so when it get wet the plastic coating holds the water. The dealership told me to buy a new set. I even complained the the national hwy safety admin :lemon:
Hell no. I got some galvanized cable and fixed them myself.
Get a load of this ... Site:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm
You gotta go to the site's "Defect investigations" -and put in Chevy Sonoma (go figure ??)
I've got no notification - have you guys ??
Quote from PAge "
NHTSA Action Number: NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
EA05008 N/A
Make: CHEVROLET Model: SONOMA
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year : 2002
Component :
LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:TAILGATE:LATCH
Date Investigation Opened : April 14, 2005
Date Investigation Closed : May 19, 2006
Summary:
GENERAL MOTORS IS CONDUCTING A "SPECIAL POLICY" PROGRAM FOR 903,464 OWNERS OF 2000 - 2003 MODEL S/T VEHICLES THROUGH WHICH OWNERS MAY, AT THEIR OPTION, EITHER (1) PERIODICALLY INSPECT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE AND HAVE THE CABLES REPLACED IF THE CABLE COATING EXHIBITS ANY INDICATIONS OF DAMAGE OR DETERIORATION OR (2) REQUEST THAT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. GM WILL HONOR ALL REQUESTS BY OWNERS WHO OPT FOR REPLACEMENT WITHOUT QUESTION REGARDLESS OF THE CONDITION OR APPEARANCE OF THE CABLES. GM HAS AGREED TO MAIL REMINDER NOTIFICATIONS TO OWNERS EVERY TWO YEARS UNTIL THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAVE BEEN REPLACED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS 12 YEARS OLD. ODI'S INVESTIGATION INDICATES THAT A SIGNIFICANT MAJORITY OF THE REPORTED COMPLAINTS (87%) AND INJURIES (94%) HAVE OCCURRED IN MY 2000 - 2003 S/T VEHICLES
End Quote"
kcram - Pickups Host
If you weren't smelling coolant from the vents, next check points are water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hose connects.
The hose (if it popped off (and not wiggled loose) - was probably the weakes link in the system when under pressure... The question is - did it overheat from coolant loss (i.e., Drips, minor leaks = low coolant = engine overheat) or is something else wrong that caused a full system to overheat (plugged radiator, bad thermostat,, etc ...). If it was low coolant - over time - then the over flow tank should have worked ... So I'd get the system flushed, pressure tested, etc. - and hope the engine is OK .... Good Luck
As for the loss of power and increase of engine temp, I had the same thing happen on a car with a bad catalytic converter. When I replaced the converter everything went back to normal.
Good luck
A lot of times just having loss of power causes the engine work extra hard trying to keep up with demand. That in turn causes the engine to run hotter.
A bad catalytic doesn't necessarily equate to louder exhaust. An exhaust leak such as a cracked exhaust manifold, faulty exhaust gaskets, or holes in exhaust system is usually where the noise comes in. A bad cat converter causes an obstruction and restricts the flow of exhaust. This in turn causes poor performance and poor performance causes excessive heat. It's kind of like you jammed a shop towel in the tail pipe. If you have use of a lazar thermometer, shoot the temp of the exhaust pipe where it comes off the manifold and compare that to temp of the cat converter. If there isn't a measurable difference then I would say the cat converter is suspect.
When you had the plugs out did you run a compression check? Did you isolate the cause of it missing? Sometimes running a compression check can tell the tell.
Good luck
Thank you,
Good luck.
Thank you,