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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
2.) There is a Body seam at the top of the window corner post - both sides of the winshield. If it's not sealed, the water will drip in and hit the inside trim - then follow the trim down the inside to the dash or the floor ... Remove the inside trim - seal the seam and the inside window corner
If the spark is now Ok - maybe it's the Gas .. Check the wiring to the Air Flow sensor .??
2nd - If the prossure is really "Pegged" (max pressure) - I'd say the oil pump is pumping just fine ... Where is the pressure being checked physically in the engine - right after the pump or after it goes through the crankshaft?? It does make a difference in the diagnosis ....
3rd - Pressure is the opposition to flow. The pump is just a "flow" making device. If you are truely max on pressure and the pressure sensor right at / after the pump - I'd say you have a blockage - check for a seal/storage plug you should have taken out but missed ...
From what you said - I'd say the oil is not returning to the pan (Blocked) and the flow is stopped- so you have max pressure .....
I'd remove this fuse (and maybe all fuses ? - BUT be careful to check a body and shop manual/fuse distribution info. to ensure that you will not be "re-stting anything" on some of the fuse circuits ... )
I'd pull it , clean/check the contacts / fuse(s) and re seat ...
Also, Check the wiring diagram circuit for the Cigrarette ligher and see "what else" is on this Cigarette ligher fuse... Perhaps a bad/dirty contact in the fuse caused a high resistance in a from a dirty fuse contact and resulted in a supplied voltage dropped to everyything on this circuit... Could this have been caused by the "now needed" current draw of the Cell phone charger? Now if the Radio is on the fuse as well ... this might be a good solution ....
Also, Take a multi meter and check for the 24V in the cigarette lighter wires ....
Good Luck !!
It was running OK until 20 Min's ago .... hmmmm ...
When was the last time you filled up your gas tank ?? At a Station you always use ??
It almost sounds like you have water in the gas tank .... From your description, you have a Surging problem - that may just point to the fuel / delivery system.
As, from the way I ready your message, it seems to have OK power in between surges - I'd check for water in the gas first. If it's a little, Dry gas may fix it up until you run out the tank - otherwise I think the repair stations like to drop the tank and flush it all out.
If you suspect the Gas - a stop at the same station and asking if they had other customers with the same problem may (or may NOT) give you some help as well. The station may not want to fess up - but you could go the some of the nearest repair station approx 1 to 2 miles in circumfrence to the Gas station and aske the Mechanics !!! -- They'll tell you if they had a whole bunch of cars with water in their gas tanks recently ... (he'll be the one lighting the cuban with the 100 dollar bill!!!)
Caution here - IF you get straight water in the cylinders - water will not compress and your could do severe damage (blkow out a hole in the cylinder tops, bend a rod, etc. ...)
Good Luck!
Well now I cant even get the truck to start...when I turn the key it will roll the motor over 3 or 4 times and then abrubtly stop for a second and then roll it over 3 or 4 more times ...and so on and so on. I dont know if this is normal when a motor doesn't start because it usaually started on the first turn...I absolutly cant afford to put this in the shop and now i cant even get to a shop. Any ideas would be helpful at this point. Thanks.
Sounds like you have bad luck ... I'm out of ideas - but have one more comment ... Remember Gas floats above the water and it will be at the tank bottom. But, if it has not been gassed up for a while - that sort of rules out Water ....
I Did know a guy that had similar problems. ONLY when the tank was mostly empty. .. - turns out some joker put a plastic sandwich baggie in his tank and it would get sucked into the fuel pick up filter in the tank!!!
If I can think of anything else - I'll be back and re-post ...
Good Luck !!
I'm not sure on my answer - so take what I say with this with caution, but I "Think" the following may be helpful ...
In my years with tinkering with engines ( pre 90's) I found the following to be true ...
The oil would go "Through" the crank shaft at the back - then exit out the front end of the shaft ... At this point the pressure gauge is sometimes placed - so it can indicate that the oil is making that far. IF you have bad Connecting rod to Crank bearings - or bad main bearings - the oil would leak out there and flow back into the oil pan. Lack of oil flow / volume equals lower proessure - so the sending unit, when placed at the engine front, would help to give an indication that the oil pump is working "AND" sufficent oil flow (i.e., bearings are not too bad) is making it through to the front of the crank. From the front of the engine - the oils then goes to the push rods, etc ....
So, ... I'd look for the sending units up and round the front od the engine ... Of couse I could be wasiting your time if you already looked there ... But I thought I'd try to help ...
Document ID# 188830
1998 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 2WD
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis
Circuit Description
When the ignition is turned ON, the powertrain control module (PCM) turns ON the in-tank fuel pump. The pump will remain ON as long as the PCM is receiving ignition reference pulses from the electronic ignition control module (ICM). If there are no reference pulses, the PCM will shut OFF the fuel pump about 2-3 seconds after the ignition is turned ON, about 10 seconds after the reference pulses stop.
The fuel pump delivers fuel to the fuel rail and fuel injectors, then to the fuel pressure regulator, where the system pressure is controlled to 283-324 kPa (41-47 psi) with no manifold vacuum or 214-303 kPa (31-44 psi) at idle. Excess fuel is then returned to the fuel tank.
Improper Fuel System pressure will result in one or all of the following symptoms:
Cranks But Will Not Run
DTC P0171
DTC P0172
DTC P1171
DTC P0300
Cuts out, may feel like an ignition problem
Poor fuel economy, loss of power
Hesitation
Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for a poor connection or damaged harness. Inspect the PCM harness and connectors for the following items:
Improper mating
Broken locks
Improperly formed or damaged terminals
Poor terminal to wire connections
Damaged harnesses
I'd first try to see if you have more than one problem .... Something like Fuel and/or timing (Knock) and or other Drive train Mechanical ...
I'd start with the mechanical .. Having metalic noises when under load or in turning - may be the front wheel bearings or front u-joints or Main shaft u joints.
Try driving on a flat surface/road in 2WD , keeping a constant speed and weave left right and see if you hear the noise - if so, I'd be concerned with the front wheel bearings / joints in front wheel drive shafts ... (My first guess would be a wheel bearing on an S10)
Then going up constant incline hill (in 2WD) - driving straight - try various amounts of gas pedal. If you get the metallic noise there under light acceletation/load I'd check for Knock (Timing - but you should get a code for this) - Also, I'd check the Main drive shaft U joints.
If the above is inconclusive - I'd have a shop check for fuel pressue and flow ...
Good luck !!
I had a shop check it one day and i believe it was like 55 it was not 60 well when we turned off the truck it rose up to 60 or above!!!?? This fuel promblem has me the most puzzled. If i can fix it then i can see if it has something to do with my sputtering and going up a hill sputter!! But i can hear the gas going through the hoses at my gas tank from inside the cab!! thats not normal is it? i mean it just like a kinked water hose! you know when a water hose gets kinked how it will have a pulse! but its loud!! Thanks for the help.
open. Find the egr valve and apply vaccumn one or twice. It should close. Or replace it. just a suggestion.
- The pump, when energized, will always pump to best Flow possible. If demand is met to the engine, then needed flow is then not needed/reduced and pressure goes up - and then a relief valve opens up and dumps the unneeded fuel back to the tank. There is bound to be "some" noise in this arrangement - and I have heard that some pumps are WAY more noisy than others ... What's the spec for min pressure for the Pump ?? Although it's noisy - if it meets the Flow / min pressures - and although it is way too noisy, - I'd start looking somewhere else. Some one else in this Forum mentioned changing the fuel filter - that's quick and cheap to do if you hav not already ... Also someone said the EGR Valve should be checked as well ...
Anyone else here have better/more corrrect inputs - I just can't think of anything else at the moment ...
Good Luck !!
I take it you have already ruled out the Rear end ?? These can get noisy when the Pinion pre-load is not exactly correct .... ???
If the door/cab lights are staying on, could be a short to ground. Assuming you have a wiring diagram, you can trace the path of the wires, see if any other wires are coming into contact or if the cab light wires are chaffed, touching a metal component. Also, with the door open, did you push in the little plunger, and if so, did the light go off?
And as previously stated, I would check the switch. You may have bumped or turned it all the way on and forgot, causing the lights to stay on all the time.
its done it for about a year now but i keep rollin
let me ask you, if u turn the ac on does it make it worse?
Also, according to the Haynes book there are only two mounts. Is this correct?
Should I take the deal?
Mike