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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I only have 19,000 miles on it and have been maintaining it fairly well - regular oil/filter changes, etc.
My biggest gripes about it is the daytime running lights - not being able to shut the lights off at night except when I kill the motor. As someone pointed out, it's probably something simple like a fuse I could pull to disable this - so I'm going to check it out as soon as I can to see what damage I can do to it.
The other disappointment - not really a gripe per be, has been the fuel silage. I was really expecting better than the 20 town/25 highway that I'm getting now.
Reason being - in comparison to my OTHER S-10 I bought new in '82. It had the 2.8L V-6 and a FOUR Speed - the OD transmission hadn't gone into wide-spread production as yet. With this truck, I managed to get 22 city and as much as 29 on the highway....27 with the A/I on (he, it's Texas y'all!)
I didn't have long-term experience with that truck as it got repo'd after about 18 months or so - long story. I'm hoping that I won't find myself dealing with all the various predicaments that folks here are writing about.... dealt with a Ford Aerostar for 5 years and have the scars still healing to prove it!
I wonder - does GM manufacture the S-10 at more than one plant? These trucks in Texas seem to all be manufactured at the Shreveport plant - maybe there IS a difference in the quality between assembly plants? I'm hoping so, anyway!
Sounds like you are getting fabulout mileage. Be happy!
As for the manufacturing plant, I know some are being made in New Jersey. Friend just got in her S10 crew cab and it was made there (don't recall the city).
Chad
I have noticed recently that the rear-end sags quite noticeably under any kind of load (as little as 200lb). I am looking for suggestions to stiffen the rear-end and perhaps even raise it about an inch (for looks).
Also, has anyone tried to install an aftermarket sliding rear window? I've heard it's pretty easy, but I'm not sure if I can tackle it myself.
Thanks!
Tim
on the 4.3(2000 only?) at www.nhtsa.org.
Good Luck
up and now the fan spins all the time while
the engine roars deafeningly through gears 1-3.
I could simply replace the clutch, but I'm also
considering an electric fan as a replacement.
Does anyone out there know of a simple, bolt
on application I can find, or one that would
only require minimum mechanical skills to
install?
This is for a 1997LS, 2.2L 5 speed, w A/C...
Thanks for any suggestions...
just replacing the clutch or going electric...
I've seen clutch prices anywhere from $30
to $90 bucks. The most recommended electric
model was a Flexalite Black Magic Model 60,
with a price of $190 from summitracing.com...
The advantage (so I've been told) of the
electric is that you can set the temperature
to whatever you like (not that I necessarily
would), and also anywhere from a 5-12 hp gain
in performance. Install and wiring looks
rather simple.
Money's tight right now (what else is new?),
so before I end up ruining my water pump, I'll
probably throw another fan clutch at it.
Thanks for your input.
Just wondering if anyone has had similar problems and can offer some solution (or if you'd like to complain like me, that'd be fine too).
Thanks, Marissa
Marissa
I checked the cap on the gas tank, which was closed tightly. I looked under the hood and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. No apparent fluid leaks. Oil level was right on. I have no idea what may have caused this.
When I drove the truck today it ran fine and the light didn't come on. It's out of warranty (46.7k miles) so I obviously don't want to take it to a dealer. Does anyone have any ideas? The truck is completely stock, except for a K&N air filter. It has the 2.2L 4 banger. I have changed my oil religiously at 3 month intervals.
Oh, there's one more thing. Yesterday was the hottest day where I live (Detroit) in the two years I've owned the truck. It hit 92 (for all of you sun-belt dwellers, you missed it. Yesterday was THE day designated as "Summer" here in Michigan. Maybe you can make it up here for summer next year?). So, my theory is that the heat during the day had something to do with this, because the light went off as it was finally starting to cool off a little.
replaced everything you stated plus exhaust and cat (both needed to be repalced badly)
Still ran bad. Turned out it needed a new fuel filter (changed 20K prior but something caused it to go bad)
It threw no codes
First, the third door began squeaking constantly. I took it to the dealer and the interior panel had come loose so they popped it back on. It happens from time to time but it's easy to fix on your own.
Second, I always here a rattling sound from exhaust system. I took it to the dealer. Dealer replaced catalytic convertor (about 30,000 miles). It just started up again and I'm bringing it back in. Can anyone tell me why this keeps occurring?
Third, something rattles under the hood but it is very intermittent. I have no idea what it is and dealer has not been able to figure out either.
Last, the passenger seat recline handle sheared off. My friend has the same problem.
Has anyone else experienced any of these issues? Any suggestions?
Thanks
A big hats off to the guy with the 410K miles on that vehicle. I guess some of us get lucky. I certainly expected more out of my Blazer, I don't think I'll be purchasing another one.
Here's a better description:
1) turn ignition, no start
2) turn again, engine fires, dies imediatly
3) turn again, no start
4) turn again, engine fires, tries to run, dies
5) ... repeat a few more times
6) turn again, engine fires, smooths out, runs like normal
I've been driving it without problems in the last few weeks, it's just a PITA having to fiddle with it to get it started, and I'm concerned if it'll start at all when it gets cold again.
Any help would be greatly apreciated!
-Jer
Fuel pumps lose thier prime and take a while to reprime. Makes it hard to start. They will soon fail. I changed my at 110,000 to avoid being stranded.
The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI (fuel injector) unit leaks at this age. It will cause the intake plenum to go full rich and flood the engine while setting, resulting in hard starting. This leads to heavy carbon build up and must be fixed.
To check, after the car sets a while, pull off the intake hose and open the throttle valve. If you smell gasoline, you have a problem. I replaced it myself for about $550.
GM will replace California units with under 100,000 miles for free. Everyone else is screwed.
With the new pump and CPI, my 94 runs great.
Scott
She got the truck in March '94, which probably means it was made in '93, at the Shreveport, LA plant. The wiper motor's started acting funny - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I searched the NHTSA recall database and found that the '95s were recalled for this problem, but no mention of the '94 model year. I read in one of these posts that the reason for the '95 recall was a bad circuit board.
I'm going to get hold of a Chilton's manual soon enough for the vehicle. Anyone replaced the motor on their '94 themselves? Can't drive in the South in summertime without wipers, as summer storms tend to pop out of nowhere, and I'd hate for her to get into an accident, especially if it's Chevrolet's fault for installing bad OEM equipment.
BTW, anything that can be done to fix the awful acceleration on these 2.2L engines that doesn't involve putting in a small-block V8?
My current ride is a 2000 S10 Extended cab 2WD, wtih V-6, automatic and loaded to the gills. It's one year old, have nearly 17,000 miles on it and have had no problems, except for my passenger seat recliner handle breaking off. Glad to find out I'm not the only one that happened to.
My question is this: the truck has the 4600 GVW suspension package. When full, it is smooth and totally under control, but when empty, it rides pretty rough. I'd like to know what, if any, modifications other owners have made to improve the ride, but still have a decent load capability.
If you basically rebuilt your entire suspension system to the tune of $3,000-$10,000, thanks, but no thanks. I'm not planning on going that radical. But, if you did try a different brand of shock absorber, tire, or remove that bottom flat leaf from the rear suspension and had good results, let me know.
Thanks,
Joe
My old S10 rode ok and I never worried about it but when I moved halfway across the U.S. and was towing a trailer, man what a difference it made. It was never so smooth.
I have a 99 V6 S10, Z85 suspension and its awesome. When empty the ride can be rough. I havent loaded it down like I did with my old truck yet but I didnt buy an Impala either.
The uniroyals that came with the truck are a joke, a little rain and you could put a feather on the gas pedal and you'd be sideways.
So I got real tires, Michelins and my truck is fine.
Its a truck. Not a car or El Camino.
Maybe tires will help you out, maybe you need a car?
Not very helpful. Yes, I know its a truck. Yes, I've owned two El Caminos, and know the difference. Yes, I've owned two S-10s, and yes, I've ridden in trucks that ride better than my S10. And, yes, I know the difference between a car ride and a truck ride. That is not what I asked....
Once again, I'm looking for anyone that has tried various shock/tire combinations, or any other reasonable modification that noticably changed the ride of their S10.
Joe
I have a 97 S-10 with a 4banger and a 5spd with about 91k on it, good truck, glad I got the extended warrenty. Anywho, like Jim, I put Michelins on mine, 215/70/R15 X-ones to be exact. These tires just put the useless-royals that it came with to shame, they handle great, don't scream when you make a U-turn, wear perfect, and most importantly, are really good in wet weather. With the other tires, I also could lite'm up in the rain when not trying, not to mention the rear tires coming loose while goin up a hill on a freeway at 60mph. The michelins came with an 8yr unlimited mileage warrenty, you just can't beat that. The current set I have was replaced for free, wore the others out in about 2 yrs commuting to school on a windy country road. They are just great all around, they wear very well too if you keep them rotated. I wore that other set out just taking corners to fast and such, but I kept them rotated to make it all even. They also look good, better stance than the skinny tires it came with, they didn't last like 20k until they were at the wear marks. SO, I highly suggest these tires, very safe, good traction, and well wearing tires. As for shocks, replaced the factory ones with Monroe sensa-tracs, they have been really good too, lifetime warrenty. I have noticed that most S-10s have a rear sagging problem when they are not loaded, mine did that from day one, was just weird, I even have the heavier suspension. I put monroe sensa-trac load stabilizing shocks on the back. They are basically the same as the regular xept they are beefier and have springs on them, this raised up the rear end a bit and makes it handle well when hauling stuff. This combination makes it handle very well also, the ride is also not to bad. One other thing, how long are the clutches lasting in your trucks and does anyone have a tach on their 4 cyl, if so, what does it redline and idle at? I put an aftermarket on mine, just wanna know.
Cheers,
RYan