It's probably reasonably to focus on the O² sensors, as after being diagnosed independently, they fixed the problem previously.
As they don't usually fail after such a short time it might pay to check the connections, both for high resistance and open circuit. You should also check to see if the computer is retaining any codes.
I just got a 4 inch suspension lift on my '06 Unlimited and was shopping around for bigger tires. Could I fit 34" tires or should I stick with 33" and what is the max width I could go up to on my stock wheels without back spacers. Also, any thoughts on the best tires. I would appreciate any info. thanks
On my '00 I had to cut the support bracket. If I was replacing speakers I would go up to 5.25 in the front and 6.5 or 6x9s on the soundbar. I am not sure what all is involved for 6x9s. For the 6.5s I just had to drill a new screw hole. I haven't tried the polyfill yet. I hope to do that soon. I also heard moving the soundbar over the front seats helps a lot with the sound and being topless. I am looking to do that also.
33" is a more standard size and will work find with a 4" lift. I have 4.5" total lift and 33's look perfect and I have room to flex.
If you are on stock 8" wheels, you could run 33x10.5" tires w/o having to worry about backspacing. That said, you MIGHT have a little bit of run at full wheel turn (lock). There is an easy fix for it though.
I have the 12.5" tires on stock wheels, but I DO have the Spidertrax spacers.
BFG is a GREAT all around tire (either in AT or MT setup). Depends on your intented uses. if it is going to be mainly street driving with just trails and such, the AT should meet your needs VERY well. If you want to crawl and hit rocks/mud, then the MT may be a better option.
I've looked at the Firestone and Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's and the Cooper MT's. I currently run the TrXuS Mud Terrains.
they are a good tire, very little noise, and fit well inside the fender flares.
increasing the tire size is going to cut into your acceleration, i'm happy with mine, but don't think I'd go any bigger without regearing, the jeep would like that mod, but the checkbook wouldn't.
i've got a set of 33x12.5 swampers on cragar black steel rims that I use offroad. I love the way the black rims look on there. if you go with a larger tire, you might want to consider different wheels rather than spacers.
I am a new jeep owner, '05 Wrangler X, to be exact. The vehicle has the stock wheels. I am wanting to upgrade and need some help. I have an exceptional deal avaialable on some 33" wheels. I was told that I need a 3" lift, is this true? Secondly do I need a whole lift kit, the super-expensive kit, or can I just get a body lift (found on some websites for like $150? I appreciate anyone's help in this matter.
To fit 33's properly and have flex when offroading, you will want at LEAST a 3" lift, but 4" is better (and looks better IMO). Now there are several ways to do this, and I'll rate them in the order I would do them.
1. 3" suspension lift - this can be pricey depending on brand, but it is a great way to do it (I have an Old Man Emu lift from Australia that gave me 3.25" lift). Along with that, a 1" Body Lift (BL) helps get the Jeep up high enough, but doesn't really raise your COG much.
2. 2" Budget boost - which is essentially your stock springs with 2" spacers that fit above them. Combined with some longer travel shocks, this is a GREAT way to increase your height on a budget and still get decent performance. I'd combine this with a 1" BL as well.
I did not do Option 2 as my stock springs were already sagging and I KNEW I'd be putting more armor, winch, etc on it. The OME heavy duty springs are on my rig.
DO NOT DO A 3" Body Lift. It looks, IMO, really goofy, and those longer bolts could potentially be a safety issue. Most agree that 1-1.5" is the biggest BL you should really do.
Now, depending on your tire width (10.5, 11.5, or 12.5) you will have an issue with your stock wheels and backspacing. Stock wheels from Jeep are generally 5.5" (Canyons, Ecco, etc with Rubicon wheels being slightly different) so if you want to fit 33x12.5, you will need to reduce that backspacing by either replacing your wheels with ones having about 4" or so of BS, or adding spacers like SpiderTrax to your setup.
I have Canyons and use the Spidertrax spacers for a 5.5 - 1.25" = 4.25" backspacing. Even then, I'll rub my wheels at full turn if I'm going fast enough. I think 4" of BS is a better way to go. BTW, the lower the Backspacing number, the further out the tires/wheels will appear to be.
Here is my Jeep with the 3.25" lift + 1.25" body lift on the 33's.
Feel free to ask any other questions you may have.
Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. I could not find the old paperwork on the speakers. You may have to check with a business that installs speakers to get correct size. I think it cost about $200.00 for the speakers and installation. Good Luck, John
Paul, I appreciate the advice. Just looking online I have found a 2" coil space lift w/shocks by Rubicon Express for about $235. Is this what you were referring to in option #2? Or would I just need the 2" coil spring spacer for like $90, this of course does not have the shocks just 2" coil spring spacers. Then buy the 1" body lift from jcwhitney for about $110. I noticed that jcwhitney seems to have all of this stuff, but again I am new to this world. I am not wanting to do a lot of rock crawling, mostly make it look better and be able to do a little 4wheelin' from time to time. Thanks again for any help. Jeremy
I found what you're referring to on RE's site (the 2"). Paul will know for sure but I would recommend calling RE about some details. Since you're going to go with 3" or so of total height, you'll want to look into the other things you'll probably need (such as brake line extensions, which won't matter as much on the street, but ripping brake lines off on the trail is a bummer - and possibly a T-case lowering kit if you have vibrations from driveline angles). I would almost suggest going up to the 7002 kit, which includes some of these items, and would eliminate the need for your body lift (if you take off the 100 or so for that, you're coming closer to even in pricing, and it even comes with swaybar disconnects). I do have a little experience with this even though my TJ is still stock, as I lifted a unibody XJ a full 4.5", and it was my daily driver for a few years. It actually handled better than stock, and with the T-case kit and a proper alignment, it never had driveline issues at all.
Here's the contents of the kit a step up:
RE7002 3.5" Standard Kit TJ/LJ - T-CASE LOWERING KIT YJ/TJ 1" 1 COIL SPRINGS TJ 3" FRONT 1 COIL SPRINGS TJ 3" REAR 1 BUMP STOP 2" FRT XJ/ZJ/TJ 1 SWAY BAR DISCONNECT ADAPTER BRACKET TJ-ZJ 96+ 1 SWAY BAR END LINK FR.TJ STD. 3.5" 1 S/B END LINKS REAR TJ 1 TRACK BAR BRACKET TJ REAR 1 BUMP STOP 1.5" REAR TJ 1
Ideally, a lift needs to consider the trackbars to recenter the axles, but for a 2" lift, the shift to either side is not that big of a deal. The bump stops will definitely help keep the tires from stuffing into the fender wells.
Also with a 2" lift, the odds of driveline vibrations are fairly low. If the OP goes with a body lift (and hopefully a motor lift as well), the t-case drop wouldn't be needed (yes, this happened with me and I cured em with a motor lift).
If you are going to get into this kind of setup, DPG Offroad (www.dpgoffroad.com) sells OME kits like mine that include the trackbars, bump stops, sway bar disconnects, shocks, springs, body lift, motor lift etc). And you'll get an excellent ride with this setup (using OME and JKS parts).
I have a little case of bump steer going on. I drive a 2004 TJ with a 4" ProComp lift. I have done the t-case drop, adjusted the control arms, replaced the pitman arm, and replaced the steering stabilizer a couple of time, and replaced the ball joints. The Jeep only has about 24,000 miles on it. It runs straight down the road but when I hit a bump in the road or a dip the wheel moves, and the whole Jeep kinda sways a little. Every time I replace the steering stabilizer it quits but that is starting to cost to much money. Does anybody know of a better stabilizer than the ProComp, or know of a good double stabilizer?
A dropped pitman arm is borderline for a 4" lift, though it's certainly needed above that. Try replacing your standard arm and see if that works any better in your particular case. There's no hard and fast rules regarding Wrangler lifts, and what works for one may not work for another.
I did purchase the seat risers from Buchannan Precision Machinery and am TOTALLY pleased with them after installing them this weekend. I bought the 1 1/2 inch riser after speaking with them on different height adjustments. More to the point, the installation was VERY EASY (excluding the fact that the #50 Torx nut on each seat was tighter than the 13mm nuts holding the seats to the chassis).
I would HIGHLY recommend this mod to anyone that feels they are sitting lower in the later model TJ's than they would like. $74 delivered was the best $74 I have spent on this Jeep yet!
Hey everyone. I thought I would add the website for Buchanan Precision Machine. They make the seat risers for TJ's. Check my previous post on why I would recommend them if you need to sit higher than stock seat placement on newer TJ's (mine is 2003 Sahara Edition).
That's great ocean_shipper. Easy install and to be able to see the end of the hood was quite a change. It's definitely one of the best mods for the money. My other couldn't live without mod while driving are the Raingler ballistic nylon hand straps
Did anyone who got a lift on thier Jeep ever have to go back and re-tighten anything after a 100 miles or so. A buddy of mine said I should have the people who did my suspension lift go back and check everything after a couple of weeks. Just wondering cause I never had to do that on my truck.
A large internet Web site is looking to interview consumers who are SUV owners. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday June 20, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 PM EST containing your daytime contact information and the SUV you currently drive.
Hello again, everyone. Hope your Jeep summer is going well! Seems like I'm here when I need your help, which I do, once again. I have an '05 X (with the Rocky Mountain Edition package). I replaced the 30 inch tire group with wheels and tires off of a new '05 Rubicon (Moab wheels and Goodyear Wrangler tires). Although I am not having any rubbing problems, I think I would still like to lift my X about 2 inches. I read something earlier from Paul about a "spacer" lift and a body lift. Frankly, I'm looking for both a "look" and additional clearance, as well as a drive as reasonably close to what I have now. My off road escapades are very limited and probably involve beaches more than boulders. So, my questions are as follows: First, will a 2 inch lift kit actually give me a 2 inch lift look (sorry if that sounds like a dumb question)? What do I need to do to lift my X 2 inches and what's the difference between the spacer lift and the body lift? BTW, I put on a Warn winch a couple of months ago along with the new MOPAR/Jeep front bumper, so I'm running a little heavy in the front now. Jeep/Warn suggests shocks and spring replacements to handle the weight... does anyone agree? Or if and when I lift, should I just add HD shocks and springs as part of a lift kit?
Yes, a 2 inch lift kit will lift your Jeep exactly 2 inches. A spacer lift like the Rubicon Express Budget Boost will give you additional ground clearance and tire clearance. It comes with the longer shocks and coil spring spacers. A body lift will give you more tire clearance, but not ground clearance. A body lift actually lifts the body above the chassis, so your bumpers and skid plates will remain at the height they are now. You'll actually see a 2" gap between your bumpers and the Jeep tub. I would recommend the RE budget boost if you want ground clearance. You could even install both, but you might prefer the look of a 1" body lift.
Div Jr. is begging me to take him to Elkhart Lake WI for Camp Jeep. Has anyone attended Camp Jeep? What time do things wind down on Sunday(the web site is no help)? In all honesty I'd rather go to Elkhart Lake a couple of weeks later for the ALMS but the start of school makes that plan a non-starter... :mad: Thanks for any and all help!
I belive the Rubicon Express lift is actually 1.75 inches...I imagine the amount lift yieled from an OME, with shocks and springs would depend on how much spring sag one had before the install, but I've heard many folks getting 2 1/2 inches out of their lift.
Basically you have quite a few things to do: 1. Trails (rated A, B, and C) 2. Extreme sports demos 3. BMX bike riding 4. Obstacle course with Jeep's rigs (Rubicon's) 5. Demo drives of new Jeep vehicles 6. Engineering roundtables with Jeep engineers for the various Jeep vehicles 7. Live entertainment (sponsored by Sirius for us) 8. Food! 9. Rope climbing, scuba lessons, play area for small kids
It was a REALLY fun way for me to spend some time with my son and do some light offroading, though the hills in California were pretty challenging (deep ash-like dirt) so it was a great time!
We were also at the California Camp Jeep - great fun, enjoyed meeting Paul and other Jeep people. We left about mid-day Sunday, and it seemed like things were winding down, but lots of the displays were still open.
We had a great time finding out about all kinds of things (it isn't all trail riding, if that's what you want then a Jeep Jamboree would be better). There were people from Jeep, lots of products for sale and they had people who would install it (bought a back tow hook and they not only installed it, they fixed the loose screws on my tailgate so it didn't leak any more!). They had presentations on a number of different things, and it was great fun to drive the new (at that time), redesigned Grand Cherokee, both off-road and on a road course. I'd go again if they would ever hold one back out there.
Thank you guys! And is the Rubicon Express lift kit readily available at the usual Jeep supply companies?
BTW, I have another question. A month ago I was in Europe and saw a Jeep Wrangler with what I presume is a European tail light; it was the same size lens but had a separate red cut-out for brakes, a separate amber cut-out for turn signal, and a separate clear cut-out for back-up. Anyone know if you can buy such an animal in the Untied States? If so, where?
"Thank you guys! And is the Rubicon Express lift kit readily available at the usual Jeep supply companies?"
Prices vary by 20 to 30 bucks on the RE lift kit. I'd go with Dave over at NorthRidge 4x4. I think if you ask, he'll give a good discount on it. Plus he stocks the RE with both types of shocks.
Looks like you are leaning toward a budget boost instead of a body lift, which I think is wise. In addition to the "ugly" factor that was mentioned anything over 1-1.25" is generally considered borderline dangerous in the event of a bad accident. I am in the middle of an install of the RE 3.5 Super Flex kit and I am very impressed with the apparent quality and completeness of the kit. However, If I had opted for a budget boost I don't think I would have paid the big premium for an RE kit. After all, its spacers and shocks. Take a look at cheap 2" spacers (eBay?) and invest the extra money in a set of quality aftermarket shocks in the appropriate length for a 2" lift. Just my $.02, more to come on my experience with the RE 3.5 once I finish the install tomorrow!
I just put on 33" BFG mud terrains on my jeep unlimited and I only get the vibration in first gear. I have a 6-speed. Just wondering if any one else has experienced this in first gear only
What did you do to your Jeep to make it accomodate the 33's? You must have done some kind of lift, right?
I can't imagine the tires themselves causing a vibration at such low speeds. I suspect that you have installed a lift, which has changed your driveline angles and has caused your U-joints to operate outside of their designed angle range.
Have you installed a lift, and, if so, what kind and how many inches?
with 35's, even 4.88 may feel like it is struggling to keep up. My 4.88's with 33's are GREAT around town and INCREDIBLE offroad. On the highway, they are good to really good, though I'm still not going to win any drag races or marathon distance races with it.
I have a 4" OME suspension lift. It only started making nosie after I got the tires. I drove around for about a week without them and did not have any noise. There is no rubbing at all though. I know the BFG MTs are nosiy, but I thought it was strange that they make noise only in first gear. After that it's really not that bad even at 60 mph on the highway.
Did you do a transfer case drop when you installed the OME lift? I know an Unlimited will accept a little higher lift without changing the driveline angles as much as would be the case for a standard wheelbase Wrangler, but my guess is that a four inch lift, even on an Unlimited, would require some kind of driveline angle correction.
Just completed my Rubicon Express 3.5 super flex Saturday morning. I have an Unlimited and did not do a t-case drop or any other driveline corrections. This lift has fixed length control arms and reuses the factory relocated track bars. I'm still running the stock Rubi 31's. The lift netted 3.75" before settling and I have no vibes. Of course, every Jeep is different...
Lifted:
">
BTW, the RE springs were grey but I rattle canned them with Rustoleum.
Comments
As they don't usually fail after such a short time it might pay to check the connections, both for high resistance and open circuit. You should also check to see if the computer is retaining any codes.
I've doubled the cost of my TJ simply by putting mods on it.
-Paul
I haven't tried the polyfill yet. I hope to do that soon.
I also heard moving the soundbar over the front seats helps a lot with the sound and being topless. I am looking to do that also.
If you are on stock 8" wheels, you could run 33x10.5" tires w/o having to worry about backspacing. That said, you MIGHT have a little bit of run at full wheel turn (lock). There is an easy fix for it though.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/steerstop.htm.
I have the 12.5" tires on stock wheels, but I DO have the Spidertrax spacers.
BFG is a GREAT all around tire (either in AT or MT setup). Depends on your intented uses. if it is going to be mainly street driving with just trails and such, the AT should meet your needs VERY well. If you want to crawl and hit rocks/mud, then the MT may be a better option.
I've looked at the Firestone and Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's and the Cooper MT's. I currently run the TrXuS Mud Terrains.
-Paul
they are a good tire, very little noise, and fit well inside the fender flares.
increasing the tire size is going to cut into your acceleration, i'm happy with mine, but don't think I'd go any bigger without regearing, the jeep would like that mod, but the checkbook wouldn't.
i've got a set of 33x12.5 swampers on cragar black steel rims that I use offroad. I love the way the black rims look on there. if you go with a larger tire, you might want to consider different wheels rather than spacers.
jeff
To fit 33's properly and have flex when offroading, you will want at LEAST a 3" lift, but 4" is better (and looks better IMO). Now there are several ways to do this, and I'll rate them in the order I would do them.
1. 3" suspension lift - this can be pricey depending on brand, but it is a great way to do it (I have an Old Man Emu lift from Australia that gave me 3.25" lift). Along with that, a 1" Body Lift (BL) helps get the Jeep up high enough, but doesn't really raise your COG much.
2. 2" Budget boost - which is essentially your stock springs with 2" spacers that fit above them. Combined with some longer travel shocks, this is a GREAT way to increase your height on a budget and still get decent performance. I'd combine this with a 1" BL as well.
I did not do Option 2 as my stock springs were already sagging and I KNEW I'd be putting more armor, winch, etc on it. The OME heavy duty springs are on my rig.
DO NOT DO A 3" Body Lift. It looks, IMO, really goofy, and those longer bolts could potentially be a safety issue. Most agree that 1-1.5" is the biggest BL you should really do.
Now, depending on your tire width (10.5, 11.5, or 12.5) you will have an issue with your stock wheels and backspacing. Stock wheels from Jeep are generally 5.5" (Canyons, Ecco, etc with Rubicon wheels being slightly different) so if you want to fit 33x12.5, you will need to reduce that backspacing by either replacing your wheels with ones having about 4" or so of BS, or adding spacers like SpiderTrax to your setup.
I have Canyons and use the Spidertrax spacers for a 5.5 - 1.25" = 4.25" backspacing. Even then, I'll rub my wheels at full turn if I'm going fast enough. I think 4" of BS is a better way to go. BTW, the lower the Backspacing number, the further out the tires/wheels will appear to be.
Here is my Jeep with the 3.25" lift + 1.25" body lift on the 33's.
Feel free to ask any other questions you may have.
-Paul
I appreciate the advice. Just looking online I have found a 2" coil space lift w/shocks by Rubicon Express for about $235. Is this what you were referring to in option #2? Or would I just need the 2" coil spring spacer for like $90, this of course does not have the shocks just 2" coil spring spacers. Then buy the 1" body lift from jcwhitney for about $110.
I noticed that jcwhitney seems to have all of this stuff, but again I am new to this world. I am not wanting to do a lot of rock crawling, mostly make it look better and be able to do a little 4wheelin' from time to time. Thanks again for any help.
Jeremy
There are other vendors around that can routinely beat JCW and Quadratec pricing, so you may want to shop around a bit.
A 2" budget boost with a body lift and appropriately size tires will be a great rig to the kind of wheeling you want to do.
-Paul
Here's the contents of the kit a step up:
RE7002 3.5" Standard Kit TJ/LJ -
T-CASE LOWERING KIT YJ/TJ 1" 1
COIL SPRINGS TJ 3" FRONT 1
COIL SPRINGS TJ 3" REAR 1
BUMP STOP 2" FRT XJ/ZJ/TJ 1
SWAY BAR DISCONNECT ADAPTER BRACKET TJ-ZJ 96+ 1
SWAY BAR END LINK FR.TJ STD. 3.5" 1
S/B END LINKS REAR TJ 1
TRACK BAR BRACKET TJ REAR 1
BUMP STOP 1.5" REAR TJ 1
Also with a 2" lift, the odds of driveline vibrations are fairly low. If the OP goes with a body lift (and hopefully a motor lift as well), the t-case drop wouldn't be needed (yes, this happened with me and I cured em with a motor lift).
If you are going to get into this kind of setup, DPG Offroad (www.dpgoffroad.com) sells OME kits like mine that include the trackbars, bump stops, sway bar disconnects, shocks, springs, body lift, motor lift etc). And you'll get an excellent ride with this setup (using OME and JKS parts).
-Paul
-Paul
I did purchase the seat risers from Buchannan Precision Machinery and am TOTALLY pleased with them after installing them this weekend. I bought the 1 1/2 inch riser after speaking with them on different height adjustments. More to the point, the installation was VERY EASY (excluding the fact that the #50 Torx nut on each seat was tighter than the 13mm nuts holding the seats to the chassis).
I would HIGHLY recommend this mod to anyone that feels they are sitting lower in the later model TJ's than they would like. $74 delivered was the best $74 I have spent on this Jeep yet!
Thanks so much for the information!!! - Chuck
Seat Riser
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
Thanks.
Steve
And remember, let's be careful out there...
Heinous: adv Grossly wicked or reprehensible; abominable
I'll go first.
Let's just hope the poor thing has been put back to stock or melted down by now. This was cruel and unusual punishment.
Yes, that's wood from the petroleum-tree...
It does look like they are waiting for ze plane in the first shot.
Steve, Host
A body lift will give you more tire clearance, but not ground clearance. A body lift actually lifts the body above the chassis, so your bumpers and skid plates will remain at the height they are now. You'll actually see a 2" gap between your bumpers and the Jeep tub.
I would recommend the RE budget boost if you want ground clearance. You could even install both, but you might prefer the look of a 1" body lift.
Thanks for any and all help!
I have pics at my Webshots at http://community.webshots.com/skimblz_ (don't forget the underscore at the end).
Basically you have quite a few things to do:
1. Trails (rated A, B, and C)
2. Extreme sports demos
3. BMX bike riding
4. Obstacle course with Jeep's rigs (Rubicon's)
5. Demo drives of new Jeep vehicles
6. Engineering roundtables with Jeep engineers for the various Jeep vehicles
7. Live entertainment (sponsored by Sirius for us)
8. Food!
9. Rope climbing, scuba lessons, play area for small kids
It was a REALLY fun way for me to spend some time with my son and do some light offroading, though the hills in California were pretty challenging (deep ash-like dirt) so it was a great time!
-Paul
We had a great time finding out about all kinds of things (it isn't all trail riding, if that's what you want then a Jeep Jamboree would be better). There were people from Jeep, lots of products for sale and they had people who would install it (bought a back tow hook and they not only installed it, they fixed the loose screws on my tailgate so it didn't leak any more!). They had presentations on a number of different things, and it was great fun to drive the new (at that time), redesigned Grand Cherokee, both off-road and on a road course. I'd go again if they would ever hold one back out there.
BTW, I have another question. A month ago I was in Europe and saw a Jeep Wrangler with what I presume is a European tail light; it was the same size lens but had a separate red cut-out for brakes, a separate amber cut-out for turn signal, and a separate clear cut-out for back-up. Anyone know if you can buy such an animal in the Untied States? If so, where?
Thanks again one and all.
Steve
And remember, let's be careful out there...
-Paul
Prices vary by 20 to 30 bucks on the RE lift kit. I'd go with Dave over at NorthRidge 4x4. I think if you ask, he'll give a good discount on it. Plus he stocks the RE with both types of shocks.
Looks like you are leaning toward a budget boost instead of a body lift, which I think is wise. In addition to the "ugly" factor that was mentioned anything over 1-1.25" is generally considered borderline dangerous in the event of a bad accident. I am in the middle of an install of the RE 3.5 Super Flex kit and I am very impressed with the apparent quality and completeness of the kit. However, If I had opted for a budget boost I don't think I would have paid the big premium for an RE kit. After all, its spacers and shocks. Take a look at cheap 2" spacers (eBay?) and invest the extra money in a set of quality aftermarket shocks in the appropriate length for a 2" lift. Just my $.02, more to come on my experience with the RE 3.5 once I finish the install tomorrow!
Sorry to hear the European lights aren't available here. Next time I'm abroad, I'll see if I can hunt them down.
Have a great weekend!
Steve
And remember, let's be careful out there...
http://tinyurl.com/egm8l
What did you do to your Jeep to make it accomodate the 33's? You must have done some kind of lift, right?
I can't imagine the tires themselves causing a vibration at such low speeds. I suspect that you have installed a lift, which has changed your driveline angles and has caused your U-joints to operate outside of their designed angle range.
Have you installed a lift, and, if so, what kind and how many inches?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
33's? Yes.
with 35's, even 4.88 may feel like it is struggling to keep up. My 4.88's with 33's are GREAT around town and INCREDIBLE offroad. On the highway, they are good to really good, though I'm still not going to win any drag races or marathon distance races with it.
-Paul
-Paul
Did you do a transfer case drop when you installed the OME lift? I know an Unlimited will accept a little higher lift without changing the driveline angles as much as would be the case for a standard wheelbase Wrangler, but my guess is that a four inch lift, even on an Unlimited, would require some kind of driveline angle correction.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Lifted:
BTW, the RE springs were grey but I rattle canned them with Rustoleum.
Terry