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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • monzamessmonzamess Member Posts: 5
    I just replaced the front wheel bearings (and rotors and pads) about 10K miles ago, but maybe I got crappy parts or installed them incorrectly--I made sure to pack the bearings, follow instructions, set the correct torque, etc... but that is an easy test to try. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • monzamessmonzamess Member Posts: 5
    The last fuse was really melted and burnt. And, the last time this problem (short) happened, I actually heard a brief "sizzling" sound in the fuse box to the left of the dash.

    I'll dig around through that circuit now. Might have to get actual shop manuals vs. the Haynes one I've been using.

    Thanks for the information.
  • willi1willi1 Member Posts: 3
    My S10 only has 70k on it. Had starting problems - seemed to be flooding out. AFter we replaced the fuel pump, filters, rebuilt the throttle body, cleaned injectors, nothing worked. Put in a new throttle body and it starts and runs at a HIGH idle, won't kick down either. Still sounds like it's getting to much fuel - after 10 minutes or so you can't throttle up without choking it out and stalling. Are there vacuum issues I need to check? Computer problem? Would the exhaust system screw this up? Before we changed the throttle body out I had flames coming out of the muffler! Won't start after it stalls out either - as if it's flooded again. Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
  • novadudenovadude Member Posts: 4
    Been having a problem for awhile now. Backfires out the exhaust, blows the muffler out, splits the seams, if only hold the key in start for short periods its ok, but if i hold it, after about 5 seconds it seems to be compressing liquid, then KAPOWIE, I have no Chk Eng Light, no codes, Seems to start better if I jump the ALDL A&B, Once it is running, it runs fantastic. Static timing is set to about 6-8 degrees. So far I have replaced complete distributor with known good unit, Injector is a known good unit(runs great) Going to replace coil next, just happen to have another good one. Had to remove cat temporarily, so I have slip fit connections for the exh hdr pipe to the muffler. HELP!!!
  • stoogefanstoogefan Member Posts: 1
    About a month ago I noticed with my 95 S-10 4.3L that when I would take a turn and accelerate my truck would cut out like it was not getting fuel and it would make a popping noise like it was backfiring. Now it is doing it more often and seems to have a sputter when driving at higher speeds. I have changed the fuel filter and that didn't help. Took and had local auto store run a code check and no faults detected. Everyone I have spoken with said that it didn't sound like the fuel pump because they don't normally have warning signs they just quit working all together. Does anyone have any suggestions as what the problem may be?
  • mseifertmseifert Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 extended cab and mine did that when the rear cv joint went bad. Had it replaced,driveshaft balanced and it was good for about 20,000 miles and now it is doing it again. From what I have read the second one went bad because it was installed wrong. At $200 a shot I don't want to keep doing this.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI ,

    try this ...
    http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

    $15 a year per car and they have all the recalls, TSB, Diagrams, etc for the vehicle. Not as good as the GM shop manuals as far as full info is concerned - but has the TSB, etc ... Cheaper than the manuals and does have some good stuff. For example a demo below ...

    http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EG%7EOD%7EC8000%7EN/0
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI all,

    Please, If you find the help here Bad or good - please post the troubleshooting results. We ALL benefit from the knowledge. Even being wrong is OK if you learn from it.... Knowing what the actual problem WAS is even better .....
  • monzamessmonzamess Member Posts: 5
    I appreciate the sentiment--I always wonder how things worked out. In my case, I'll let you know when I finally get a chance to work on my truck. Luckily it's no longer my daily driver.
  • hillbillyhillbilly Member Posts: 6
    What motor and how many miles are on it? Have you replaced your plugs and wires or cap and rotor. If you have near 100K miles and have never replace these things I would say its about time. Decreased mileage is another sign that would warrant such a replacement.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check fuel pressure.
  • londog77londog77 Member Posts: 5
    If you read back a month or so you will notice a post from me with a similar problem...I have a 99 4.3L that did basically the same thing. Mine would idol OK but once I accelerated the truck would cut out and buck and shake and all that fun stuff. Anyway, I checked every site for info, I bought a code reader, checked my fuel pressure, talked to seasoned mechanics....everything. I got no codes but the fuel pressure was at 54 lbs...which is at the low end of operational. So, and chevy dealership mechanic friend of mine swore it was the fuel pump...I trusted his advise and ponied up the $200 bucks on ebay ($595 at the dealership) for a new fuel pump...spent too many hours fixing it myself and fired the motor up just to run into the same problem...lets say I was a little angry. Anyway, I'm writing a book here, so to make a long story short I finally swallowed my pride and spent the $100 for a diagnostic test just to find outs its an "electrical problem" A couple hours later searching for this problem found a cap and rotor full of carbon buildup. $40 bucks later it is fixed....yes carbon buildup on the rotor. If I were you I would change the cap and rotor or at least inspect it for build up and scrape away the carbon to improve the connection. Don't make my mistake. Good luck. Tell me if it works.
  • glove2uglove2u Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 s10 2.8 6 cylinder and have not ad any prblems withit until now. I have roughly 157,000 miles and I have not experienced any rust on the oit pan. Maybe because my pan is oil soaked. My paint does the same thing and it is green.. Do you have prolems with freeze plugs going bad and also how many freeze plugs are with this engine?
  • billc2billc2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi You may want to check your "U" joints or/and a 4wheel balance
  • billc2billc2 Member Posts: 2
    The "chirping" could very well be your "release bearing" when running free makes the noise then when loaded stops. It is not a normal noise for a bearing.. The oil burning could be a few things. More info would help . Like does it puff smoke on "start up" when accelerating ect.
  • dngduddngdud Member Posts: 1
    I don't think anyone has answered yey and I am having a similar problem with my wifes '94
    s-10. It quit on her and has no power to the fuel pump. The oil was very low and I think the
    oil pressure switch is the culpret but I can not find where it is or how to re-set it. Have you had any luck yet? Thanks.
    dngdud
  • novadudenovadude Member Posts: 4
    I believe on the housing by the oil filter on 4.3 (similar to 2.8) you will find the oil sending unit, which also shuts down the fuel pump in the event of low oil pressure, on the other hand, if your fuel pump relay is out, it also functions as a backup to provide the necessary power to the pump to start once sufficient oil pressure is reached while cranking. good luck, let us know what fixes it. :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The powertrain control module energizes the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds when the key's turned on to provide initial fuel pressure. After the engine has started, pump power passes through the oil pressure switch. If the pump doesn't turn on to prime the system when the key's turned to ON, apply battery voltage through a 10A fused jumper to the pump prime connector, single red wire coming out of the relay. Should turn on the pump.

    If the pump runs, check fuse #9, 20A, and battery voltage at pump relay orange wire.

    If the pump doesn't run, first check the pump ground connection, black wire. If ok, check for an open circuit in the grey wire from the relay to the pump.
  • willi1willi1 Member Posts: 3
    Have a 89 S-10 pickup. 4.3L... Truck starts, runs at high RPM's and won't kick down. Has a new throttle body and injectors, fuel pickup, lines, filter... what else should I check? After it runs a bit it will die and then won't start, as if it's flooded. Check engine light stays on as well. Would the O2 sensor, vacuum hoses, or exhaust effect this? What about the freakin computer? The manual I have isn't to specific to throttle bodies. Any help is really appreciated.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes and post them. Here's how:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
  • bigjdbigjd Member Posts: 1
    Week and a half ago after a full tank of gas, my truck would sputter just a bit from 60-65 mph. Few days later leaving my house pulling out on road it shut down, but started back right away. Sputtered just every now and then, but maintained power and speed. On Friday the 22nd trying to go up road it spit and sputtered the whole trip, shaking violently, with the service engine soon light coming on. After reaching destination came back after a few hours and it would not start at all. On Sunday, I poured alcohol in the fuel tank and poured some gas in the throttle body. It started after touching the key, so I rode around a little and it sputtered some, but straightened out and I ended up driving probably 60 miles that day. The service engine light never came back on. Today I was coming to work and it completely shut down after about 36 miles. I stomped the accelerator many times and after probably 5 minutes or so it cranked and I made it to work. I've had 2 tanks of gas in it during this time
  • johnsonbjohnsonb Member Posts: 2
    My 86 S10 Truck had problems running, it would act like it was getting flooded out and then backfire and stop running. I replaced Fuel Pump, Fuel filter, Starter, Spark plugs, Both ignition switches in the column, now truck runs good when it will start. When I turn the key on I can hear it grinding, but it won't start. It will start one out of 20 tries. It starts right when I am releasing the key. I turn the key forward and it just grinds and then when I turn the key back and get ready to release it, then it starts Sometimes. Does anyone have any ideal what the problem could be? Is there any way to adjust the linkage for the ignition switches in the column? Could I have created the problem when I replaced them?
  • pro2racepro2race Member Posts: 1
    I'm working on a 94 chevy S-10 and i want to know if anybody can help me or link me with a website on how to fix the air conditioner. Everything is already installed, just need help on how to get it working and yeah.
  • 4x4s10krew4x4s10krew Member Posts: 2
    im not sure if this is the correct board, but here goes. i want a six inch lift. ive seen the superlift 6 inc kit. looks ok but want to know all my options. any help would be truly appreciated. thanks
  • chronicnetprochronicnetpro Member Posts: 1
    I've scoped the discussions, but haven't seen this same symptom. My 88 S-10 has been a good runner, always fires right up, but I don't drive it a lot. The other day I went to start it, and it wouldn't. I fiddled with it, performed a minor tune-up (replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap) with no result. If I shoot a little starting fluid in it, it fires up fine, drives fine and is OK until I turn it off. Since it runs fine, it seems to me that some possible issues are eliminated (I must have spark, fuel delivery, so can't be clogged fuel lines or pump issues). I am getting a bald spot from scratching my head. If anybody more knowledgeable than me (which would pretty much include everyone) could shed any light on this, I'd appreciate it. :sick:
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    An 86 ? I'm not sure if the 86 still had a Ballast resistor - but this is a classic symptom. The Coil on the older cars had two sources /wires to power the coil. 1 came from the "on" poisition of the ign switch and ran "through" (in series) a Ballast Resistor that dropped the voltage down a few volts (so the coil would NOT be running at full voltage all the time and burn out.) This is this is the normal "run" condiition.

    The second wire/circuit went from the battery to the "Start" switch contact and directly to the coil (full 24 volts - for STARTING ONLY ). Once the engine started and you released the key from the start to run position the OTHER wire/circuit ((through the ballast resistor) takes over....

    In your case it sounds like the coil is getting juice ONLY when the key is in start position and NOT when it is release to the run position ....At least check ALL contacts/connectors. Then get a meter and schematic and ensure that the 12V is getting through to the coil both whne the key switch is in the start and the ON posiiton. Otherwise, if it's a sealed unit - you may need to swap the Electronics out ....

    Plese let us know what it was when you fix it !!

    Good Luck

    Canufixit ...
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Oh Yeah, One more thing ...
    On some cars there were no Ballast resistors - instead the "wire itself" is the resistor ... If I remember correctly on the old "Points " style ignition - for Chryslers/Mopars they used the ballast resistor and GM usually just used a resistive wire in the "run" circuits ... but this my not be ture for all makes/models ...

    Good Luck!!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I'm not sure if the 86 still had a Ballast resistor

    It doesn't. GM used resistor wire, but only with point ignition systems to reduce coil temp and point arcing.

    full 24 volts - for STARTING ONLY

    That's 12 volts, not 24.
  • dumbdumb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 2.2 liter 4 cyl and when i was changing the spark plug wires i didn't push them down all the way and the poped off and i need to know the order they are put on please :sick:
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Thanks Alcan ... You are correct ... What was I thinking ????
  • layinlow98layinlow98 Member Posts: 1
    i Just boaught some 18's wih a tire size of 225/40ZR/18 88W straight from stock tires these made a huge difference in traction and stability. 90' corners are taken with ease and no slippage and no squealing. i have the stock suspension still in so there is quite a big wheel gap but its still a huge improvement
  • johnsonbjohnsonb Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help, I will test it out tonight.
  • emilyraeemilyrae Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S-10 with 270,000 miles on it (give or take) I know... it's a lot. It's been running very well, and recently had the ignition control module fixed.

    About a week ago after driving for about an hour I stopped somewhere, and when I went to start the truck it wouldn't start. The started didn't roll over, there was no clicking (such as a dead battery) and all of my accessories work fine. I left it there with intentions to tow it a few days later when I had the money. But when I was waiting for my friend to tow it, I tried to start it, and it started right up, no problems.

    Another instance it did the same thing after a pit stop, no start. I waited about 5-10 minutes, and it started right up. This last time however, it just hasn't wanted to start back up again. I'm stumped, and have no idea where to even start. Any ideas? :cry:
  • jimmy97jimmy97 Member Posts: 2
    Did you pull the codes for the check engine light..If so what were they?How many miles do you have on this truck?
  • corrozuscorrozus Member Posts: 1
    I am the second owner of a 2000 Chevy S-10. Its a 4x4 with a 4.3L V6, 5 speed. I didn't know if any of that was important to my question so I listed in just in case. Anyway, I recently moved and rented a UHaul trailer. I had it hooked up and disconnected the rear lights to connect to the trailer. Everything worked fine. When I dropped the trailer off, I hooked my rear lights up again. Now, all the lights work fine except for the left rear tail light. The brake lights and turn signals still work fine. I replaced all the bulbs in the taillight and checked the fuses. The fuses are fine. I still can't get the taillight to work. Anyone know what the problem could be or how I should go about fixing it? Its not under warranty right now and I really can't afford to take it in. Please let me know. E-mail me at trucorro@yahoo.com or respond here please. Thanks.
  • jake7gjake7g Member Posts: 4
    I am also in the middle of a motor project. I just changed from a 91 2.5 to a 2000 4.3 in my 91 frame. I have had the harnesses interfaced and just got everything installed. I thought I was having only a fuel pressure problem but after getting the new pump installed my truck won't fire. I have a good coil, good distributor, new cap and rotor and new plugs and wire. The spark is good. However, my truck won't fire either. I sprayed a little starting fluid in the intake and it rumbles until it uses all the fluid. Based on this I believe that the injectors are stuck closed or that there is a problem with the pcm or the spider. I just got this far yesterday and have to wait a week until I trouble shoot again. I have read on posts that if a vortec motor, post 96 sits for a while the injectors tend to stick close. I don't remember all of what the posts said but I think there is some kind of cleaner that will open them up. I have to go back and read them. Hope it works out for you and let me know what you find out.
  • inside_wiremaninside_wireman Member Posts: 2
    I got this code with a pending code of P0171 "System too lean/Bank too lean (Bank 1)" I have replaced an O2 sensor and a IAC Idle Air Control Valve. Now my truck idles well, but it runs like dooky on a stick. What may cause the drop in the MAP? Vacuum issues? EGR? Emissions EVAP System? Please Edumicate me,
    LOL, Thanks,
    Ty :confuse:
  • zero1zero1 Member Posts: 1
    S-10 2.2L 5sp 150k
    Problems
    p/steering pump
    Wiper motor
    Chirping noise from the clutch throw out bearing from day one.
    New 29mpg highway after 150k not as good mpg
    Serp belt making noises
    Solid runner

    The s-10 is not the reason won’t buy chevy it’s the Monte the GM/dealership can not fix it’s problems clunk feel in the steering column took it in the btards charged me for lubing the intermediate shaft which should never go bad. Faulty engineering on GM part. Poor dealer service. Same thing after 3k they replaced it and at 5k same problem. If GM supports and stands by there product I would have a different perception of them they don’t thus No more
  • tammy4tammy4 Member Posts: 1
    If you door will not open from inside or outside, how would you remove door panel to fix.
  • dave96dave96 Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking into lowering my s-10. Right now as the truck sits the drivers side sits higher than the passenger. i can't tell if it is comming from the [non-permissible content removed] end or the front end because its damn close. But if it is the coil springs thats ok i'm looking to replace those any ways. But if its the leaf springs i need to know becasue i found a 1.5'' drop leaf spring on ebay for pretty cheap.
    My second question is if i get the 1.5'' leaf springs what size block should i get to even out my truck considering i want a 3'' coil spring. I think a 3'' block on the back and with the lowering leaf springs it would slam that front end but i don't know a whole lot about suspension. But some one out there could guide me i would apprechate it.
    thank you
    david
  • turtle4turtle4 Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know if you found out what the problem was. I am having the same problem that you described. I have a 99 S-10 ext. cab. So far I have taken my truck to a small shop and after 3 days they don't know whats causing the vibration and growling noise. I have also taken it to my local Chevy dealer and after 5 different techs and 4 hours of trouble shooting they can't tell me where the noise is coming from. Help, Help

    Thanks
    Rich
  • tinpercinttinpercint Member Posts: 1
    Use duct tape, works every time! :P
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    We have an 02 Chevy S10 ZR2. We had a hissing sound coming from the air controller at about 20000 brought it in and they said the seals were bad. Probably 15000 miles later the hissing sounds was back. Brought it in and same problem. The dealer said it was the vacuum lines sucking in antifreeze and the antifreeze was eating the seals. So they replace all the vacuum lines. Then about 30000 miles later (when the warranty was no more) hissing again! Brought it back to the same dealer and they replaced all the lines again free (because it wasn't fixed right the first 2 times). So far no hissing noise, but I'm not holding my breath.

    Was the grinding noise behind the dash intermittent? We have that too but our dealer couldn't reproduce it because it only does it occasionally.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    I have '02 ZR2 with 77,000 miles on it.

    Problem #1 Just recently the power driver side window goes down just fine but has an extremely difficult time closing. Sometimes you press the button to close it and nothing happens. Other times it goes up very slow. Any suggestions?

    Problem # 2 The truck was in 4 wheel drive low then begin making an awful grinding noise. The only thing that would make it stop grinding was turning the car off. Then when it was restarted the truck won't even attempt to put it in 4W high or low.

    And just for kicks the handle to the 3rd door broke on us last weekend when we were moving. Couple this with air controller hissing problem in which the dealer replaces the vacuum lines twice. This makes me never want to buy another chevy again, especially when we have a 95 Nissan 240SX with 220,000 miles on it and the only thing we've had to do on it other than maintainence is change the starter.
  • novadudenovadude Member Posts: 4
    Could also be that your egr is stuck open,,, Checking for fuel from injectors can be done by looking down the throttle body while you crank it using a remote starter switch,, there is a way to jumper a wire on the aldl to get the pump to cycle as well,, Do you hear the pump cycle when you turn on the key? Is there a schraeder valve to check the pressure? Hope this helps,
  • chevygalchevygal Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 98 S-10 with only 120,000 miles. Wouldn't start last month. We replaced the fuel filter module in the fuse box (it was burnt on one side).
    2 days ago: it would not start - again. We replaced the module a second time thinking something electrical was shorting them out. Still wouldn't start.
    Yesterday: Had it towed to the garage. Still wouldn't start.
    Today: Once they started to hook it up to the scope, it started and has been running every since.

    Your problem sounds very similar to what we are going through with ours.
    Have you discovered what the problem is yet?
    We don't know whether to start with the electrical or the fuel system. :sick:
  • spidey1spidey1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ZR2 got new in May of 2003. Got a cap in Dec 03 and an alarm summer of 04. Purchashed a trailer fall of 04 and have nothing but problems with the passenger side rear blinker not wanting to work. 1st couple of times it was the bulb then the trailer harness on the truck was corrided badley. Now I just don't know. The bulbs I have do work but the blinker still does not want to. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know, for this is getting pretty frustrating.
  • reptileschreptilesch Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tips guys, I've tried the starting fluid, and still there is nothing.... Short of buying a comprsion tester, I think it's not getting compression. Any one want to buy it...lol
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Not sure if this helps .... but ...

    I think there is as procedure in your manual to manually dis-engage from 4 low to hi gear ... Perhaps if you try that - it will get you into 4/2 hi for now ...

    Also, there is a TSB on the 3rd door handle ... below ...

    Door (Third) - Hard to Open/Handle Breakage

    File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

    Bulletin No.: 02-08-64-007

    Date: March, 2002

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Third Door Hard to Open and/or Handle Breakage
    (Adjust Lock Rods)

    Models:
    1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Extended Cab Pickup Models (S-10, Sonoma)

    Condition

    Some customers may comment that the third door is hard to open and/or the door handle may be broken.

    Cause

    The lock rods may be improperly adjusted.

    Correction

    Adjust the lock rods using the following procedure:

    1. Remove the door trim.

    2. Release both lock rod rods from the lock rod retainers.





    3. Position the upper lock rod first. Refer to arrow in illustration. Position the lock rod in the retainer so that there is 10 to 12 mm (0.39 to 0.47 in) (Approximately 11-12 threads showing) from the end of the lock rod.

    Important :Make sure the upper striker is not bound against the latch. If this happens, you must push the door inboard to release the latch. To correct a bound latch, adjust the striker until the striker is centered with the latch.

    4. Position the lower lock rod in the retainer where it rests, usually 5.0 to 6 mm (0.19 to 0.23 in) of threads from the end of the rod after the upper lock rod is locked in place.

    5. Install the door trim.


    Disclaimer
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks a lot! I think that is exactly our problem with the door. It was always hard to open until the day it snapped. Once we get the new part we will definitely try that!

    I will check out the manual on the 4W drive low tonight. Is there a way I can search for TSBs myself?
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