7500 miles per year is all I put on so I'd get the benefit of an extra year of warranty. Haven't seen Mazda advertising a new four-year warranty up here yet, however.
Thats cool, I didn't think anyone made them in the exact size. Hadn't looked that hard, but it's good to know they do if thats the way someone wants to go.
If anyone is thinking about buying a 2003 P5 in the next few days...hang on a bit. We had a conf. call with Mazda today and they MIGHT make the incentives a little better on the P5. We will know in the next few days if they are going to sweeten the deal.
everyone on the P5 thread is friendly and I will continue to pass along info as I get it... The maz6 people don't get the info from me anymore...they are too mean, nasty and absurd. haha. It's too bad because I got a ton of juicy info on it today.
Why not just post it here then? It would be much appreciated. My father is a dealer principle in Canada and I've been doing battle on the Mazda6 thread in your absence.
Both 15" and 16" winter tires (and wheels) can be had, at least according to the Tire Rack. Michellin, Pirelli, and Bridgestone all offer 205-50-16 winter tires.
.....but stock Mazda P5 wheels are 195/50-16s. 205's will mess up your speedometer/odometer readings and both will read on the low side of reality. Not by much though, I'll agree.
you wrote, "If anyone is thinking about buying a 2003 P5 in the next few days...hang on a bit. We had a conf. call with Mazda today and they MIGHT make the incentives a little better on the P5. We will know in the next few days if they are going to sweeten the deal. I will keep everyone informed."
If these incentives come through, do you expect them to be available when the current set runs out in early December or even sooner? Those of us anxiously considering the P5 would appreciate any information you could share.
When you purchased your Pro5's....if the roof rack was an option, at that time, would you have purchased it?? Figure the cost of the option to be around $175-200.
Yep, I would have bought it as an option. I like the way it looks and would need it for my ski racks anyway.
I haven't experienced the whistling that some of you have with my P5, even with the sunroof open and hauling [non-permissible content removed] over 80 mph...
No, I wouldn't purchase it as option. However, if I am located in Colorado, or another region with snow, I certainly will to put my skis. I like the look, but I don't think I'll pay more than $100 just for the look.
Do you have a midyear refresh model or an original? I was wondering if that rubber attachment on the leading edge of the roof rack actually works to cut down noise.
I would not have ordered the rack. In fact, I had the dealership de-install it before I picked up my car, which they were happy to do. Then after seeing the canadian P5 I have searched for the rubber rain strips so I can get rid of the roofrack attachment rails altogether. I think the P5 looks much cleaner without the rack, plus the noise, weight, and aerodynamics improve.
Will those strips be availabe down here now? Otherwise, if you can get those rubber rain strips for me, I'll drive down from Boston to get them!
I'm with riopelle, I wouldn't have ordered the roof rack and would rather have the Canadian version without anything on the roof. I prefer the simpler look and I don't haul things.
Riopelle: Part numbers BJ3D-50-9H0D (left) and BJ3D-50-9L0D (right) can be ordered from your dealer for about $63 each. Those will replace the roof rails.
Bluong: they still come with the rack rails installed but no cross-bars.
Does Mazda make a special BIKE attachment for the Factory Rack? I know they were planning one for a while, but I have had not luck finding out if one exists.
I know you can put Thule/Yakima on to the Factory Rack, but I would prefer not having the extra horizontal crossbar that those require.
Thanks for the part numbers. I have used both of those numbers, but two dealerships were unable to successfully obtain the parts last spring, even though I had prepaid for them! Yes, I got the $ back, and may try again if they become standard equipment here, as it seems they are. Or maybe I'll just save the $ and start a fund for the next generation P5.
I have an automatic P5 in excellent condition with around 6,500 miles on it. According to KBB (Kelly Blue book), if I were to resell my car privately I can expect to get around $15,150 for it. However, according to the Edmund's True Market Value, my car is worth only $11,795 in a private sale. That's amazing to me! According to Edmund's my car has lost close to $7,000 in value in just seven months. Following that line of reasoning, in another year it'll be worth $0. This makes no sense to me and seems absolutely ridiculous.
The day I drove my p5 off the lot, it probably lost well over a thousand dollars in value. It has been several months, so were I to try to sell it now, I guess I would have to pay somebody to take it off my hands.
Can't comment on the way kbb and edmunds calculate values (did you factor all of your options into the edmunds estimate?), but it is common knowledge that new cars lose a significant percentage of their value in the first year. That is why many people always recommend buying used - let somebody else pay for the most expensive period of ownership.
as I understand it is this: KBB bases its numbers on the ASKING price in the area. Edmunds bases its numbers on the SELLING price in the area. Thus, Edmunds' numbers are inherently more accurate because they reflect what the vehicles are actually selling for, and not what people are asking for them (which, obviously, is almost always more than what they actually get).
Yeah, but they lose nearly half their value after you drive them a few thousand miles? What kind of piece of junk car is this?
When I was looking to buy I checked out a lot of one to two year old cars (mostly Honda's and Toyota's) and none of them were half off the original price with less than 10,000 miles on them. In fact, the Honda's and Toyota's seemed to be almost the same price as brand new if not even more.
None of this makes any sense to me. I guess I'm just going to have to live with this car for awhile and hope the gas mileage improves miraculously.
Not that I'm really complaining about the P5 or anything, it is a good car, I just hate feeling like I wasted my hard earned money. I probably should have bought that ugly Matrix car when it first came out, it gets better gas mileage and probably won't lose its value as quickly. I just couldn't get a good deal.
I expected around $3,000 to $4,000 for the first year on this car. Instead mine went down $5,000. I'm a little surprised, but I believe it. The used market is very soft right now. Even my wife's '01 Accord has dropped $7,000 in the first two years. As they say, everyone drives a used car.
I would expect the Pacer (oops, I mean Matrix) to drop along the same lines. Whether it's a P5, Pacer, or anything that first trip over the curb costs at least 3K unless it is a car in short supply. If you want to see something really sad go look at the Taurus prices. They drop about 9K in the first year.
The curve is always steepest at the beginning. Since the market has been flooded the past few years with vehicles just off leases, depreciation curves for new cars have gotten even steeper at the beginning. The rebates and other incentives recently haven't helped either (who wants a used car when a new one is only a little bit more?).
Figure you lose at least 10% the instant you take possession. At least it's not as bad as jewelry (at the beginning...they do plateau at a higher percentage).
So, what's the floor? I think in my area, most everything (y'know, everything but "prestige" or "collector" types) that still runs (somewhat) bottoms out around $500.
Even Hondas lose their biggest chunk of value in the first year. That's why it's finacially foolish to buy and sell "normal" cars every year or two. You never own them long enough to get the value out of them.
ALL cars are depreciating assets... nothing more.
Mazda's resale values are slightly below Honda and Toyota, and about even with Nissan and VW. They are all much better then the domestics.
None of that actually reflects on the car.. low resale does not necessarily equal "piece of junk." It all comes down to what the market will bear for each make.
How bad is your mileage that you would even consider getting rid of a brand new car that you otherwise like very much?
I tend to think buy the car you want, and enjoy it, rather than worrying too much about depreciation %. The differences in depreciation are minor when broken down year to year, and even more so curve to curve.
Pacer! Excellent! I also like Corolla5. Who would buy a Corolla5???
I just went through the edmund's process for calculating the value of my car. I have abs, side impact airbags, and a sunroof as options. I paid $16,900 for it 17 months ago and edmunds said it is worth $13,989. Less than $3,000 depreciation in 17 months of ownership doesn't seem bad to me. Even putting no money down, my car is still worth more than I owe.
Your dealers need to order the number properly. Being that it isn't a US part, the dealer needs to call Mazda's parts assistance hotline and have it shipped from Canada. They may charge a 10% premium for doing so, but if they don't do this it will remain in permanent back-order. Sorry to hear that they didn't go to bat for you.
Comments
Since I drive 25k per year, it won't make much difference, but I think it's great anyway.
Snow Tires:
I have the Artic Alpins size 195/55-15 on 15" steel wheels from tirerack.com
We found some pirelli snows in exact size at www.1010tires.com
I will keep everyone informed.
rich
The maz6 people don't get the info from me anymore...they are too mean, nasty and absurd. haha. It's too bad because I got a ton of juicy info on it today.
Rich
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Bruno
If these incentives come through, do you expect them to be available when the current set runs out in early December or even sooner? Those of us anxiously considering the P5 would appreciate any information you could share.
Thanks,
P.J.Heff
bluong...lol, thanks.
When you purchased your Pro5's....if the roof rack was an option, at that time, would you have purchased it?? Figure the cost of the option to be around $175-200.
Rich
I haven't experienced the whistling that some of you have with my P5, even with the sunroof open and hauling [non-permissible content removed] over 80 mph...
I just couldn't see spending the extra just for looks, since I use a hitch rack for ski's and bike's.
Just out of interest, though, if a P5 is purchased without the rack can it be added later or are the attachment points missing?
Thanks for your input.
Rich
I would not have ordered the rack. In fact, I had the dealership de-install it before I picked up my car, which they were happy to do. Then after seeing the canadian P5 I have searched for the rubber rain strips so I can get rid of the roofrack attachment rails altogether. I think the P5 looks much cleaner without the rack, plus the noise, weight, and aerodynamics improve.
Will those strips be availabe down here now? Otherwise, if you can get those rubber rain strips for me, I'll drive down from Boston to get them!
But I've been too lazy to remove the cross bars.
Jessica
Bluong: they still come with the rack rails installed but no cross-bars.
I actually had it OFF for most of my first year with the car, but I recently put it back on because I bought a small rooftop carrier (XPORT).
I just did my orders for January and did apx a 50/50 split on racks...
Rich
Does Mazda make a special BIKE attachment for the Factory Rack? I know they were planning one for a while, but I have had not luck finding out if one exists.
I know you can put Thule/Yakima on to the Factory Rack, but I would prefer not having the extra horizontal crossbar that those require.
Thanks,
Andy
Can't comment on the way kbb and edmunds calculate values (did you factor all of your options into the edmunds estimate?), but it is common knowledge that new cars lose a significant percentage of their value in the first year. That is why many people always recommend buying used - let somebody else pay for the most expensive period of ownership.
When I was looking to buy I checked out a lot of one to two year old cars (mostly Honda's and Toyota's) and none of them were half off the original price with less than 10,000 miles on them. In fact, the Honda's and Toyota's seemed to be almost the same price as brand new if not even more.
None of this makes any sense to me. I guess I'm just going to have to live with this car for awhile and hope the gas mileage improves miraculously.
Not that I'm really complaining about the P5 or anything, it is a good car, I just hate feeling like I wasted my hard earned money. I probably should have bought that ugly Matrix car when it first came out, it gets better gas mileage and probably won't lose its value as quickly. I just couldn't get a good deal.
I would expect the Pacer (oops, I mean Matrix) to drop along the same lines. Whether it's a P5, Pacer, or anything that first trip over the curb costs at least 3K unless it is a car in short supply. If you want to see something really sad go look at the Taurus prices. They drop about 9K in the first year.
Figure you lose at least 10% the instant you take possession. At least it's not as bad as jewelry (at the beginning...they do plateau at a higher percentage).
So, what's the floor? I think in my area, most everything (y'know, everything but "prestige" or "collector" types) that still runs (somewhat) bottoms out around $500.
ALL cars are depreciating assets... nothing more.
Mazda's resale values are slightly below Honda and Toyota, and about even with Nissan and VW. They are all much better then the domestics.
None of that actually reflects on the car.. low resale does not necessarily equal "piece of junk." It all comes down to what the market will bear for each make.
How bad is your mileage that you would even consider getting rid of a brand new car that you otherwise like very much?
Pacer! Excellent! I also like Corolla5. Who would buy a Corolla5???